Climbs 39
Rocktype Limestone

Faces S

Paul Cox on the excellent upper wall of Hanger Them High (6a+) at Bosco's Gulch © Mark Glaister

Crag features

Great wall/cave,in sun 12-15 sport routes with LOs. Bird ban only applies as far as paddling pool and the routes above in the cave e.g Snatch,Squeal like a hog.

All year climbing possible on the Gulch which has been re-geared and vandalised LO's replaced.

Approach notes

Tidal, but can ab in then jumar out from lower-offs. Budgie bans March-Aug(only in Squeal like a Hog cave) due to inconvenient choughs, although these are some distance away at Bacon Hole. Do make a noisy visit to Bacon hole to look at the potential for some 8+ climbing which is geared up with large glue-ins. Gower hill-billy anti-bolters have stolen/damaged some lower-offs but the routes in the Gulch have been re-geared, ironic as the LOs were meant to leave ledges undisturbed for sea birds.

Access Advice

The seasonal climbing restriction applies to the zawn east of Minchin Hole (no routes currently) and from Bocso's Cave to Quartz Corner. Bosco's Wall and Bosco's Gulch are not affected by the seasonal restriction. Bosco's Cave itself is highly important as an archaelogical and conservation site and climbing is not permited in the cave itself.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

All routes from "Snatch" to Quartz Corner, including Bucketland and Bacon hole (pernament restriction) are subject to the seasonal restriction.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

South Wales Sport Climbs

South Wales Sport Climbs covers the area to the south of the Brecon Beacons, spanning the land and sea cliffs from the River Wye on the Welsh border to Pembrokeshire in the west. The area is home to a wealth of sport climbing on a multitude of venues ranging from small inland quarries to extensive limestone sea cliffs.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Gower & South-East Wales (2004)
www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995)
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Swansea Hillbillies E2 5c 3
2 Geoff's A Spanner E1 5b 2
  Golden Gulch
4 The Gold Rush 7a *  
5 The Midas Touch 6c+ ** 10
6 A Starke Reminder 6b ** 17
7 Aur of Glory 6a+ ** 20
8 Aur of Need 6a ** 19
9 Golden Oldy S 4a 1
10 Golden Boy 5c * 9
11 Golden Hour 5c 8
12 Gilded Cage 5b 3
13 Golden Balls 6c * 1
  Upper Golden Wall
15 Bye Bye Eddy 6b+ * 4
16 All That Glitters, Is Not Gold 7b+ * 3
17 Au 7c+  
18 Shining Dawn 7c * 3
19 Golden Wonder 7b ** 3
20 Gold Digger 6c ** 6
  Bosco's Gulch
22 Simple Simon E2 7
23 Clapham Injunction 6b ** 7
24 Clapham Injunction Direct 6c+ 3
25 Philandering Phillipino 6c * 8
26 Gold Teeth In Them There Hills 6a+ ** 14
27 Hanger Them High 6a+ ** 11
28 Y'All Come Back Now 6a+ * 9
29 The Clampetts 6c * 4
30 Jump Over My Shadow 7a * 4
31 Conglomeration 7a * 4
32 Standing On A Beach 6c * 3
33 Reign Of The Deer 7a * 2
34 Snatch 6c+  
35 Starter For Ten 7c ** 1
36 Squeal Like A Hog 6c 1
37 The Millennium Thug 7a * 1
  Paddling Pool Buttress
39 Machiavellian Pillar E3 5b  
40 Choughed to bits E4 6a  
41 Red Room
-
E3 5c  
42 Toe Nail Licks
-
E5 6a  
43 Silent ocean calling E6 6a  

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