Please refrain from climbing outside

Due to the ongoing spread of Covid-19, please abstain from climbing outside.

At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving, but we feel this is no longer socially acceptable. You can read our statement here.

We have suspended the UKC Logbooks Top Ascents and Conditions pages and we will no longer accept ascents dated from 23rd March onwards. You can still upload your historic ascents.

UKClimbing Team

Climbs 49
Rocktype Limestone

Faces S

View Stats

Paul Cox on the excellent upper wall of Hanger Them High (6a+) at Bosco's Gulch © Mark Glaister

Crag features

Great wall/cave,in sun 12-15 sport routes with LOs. Bird ban only applies as far as paddling pool and the routes above in the cave e.g Snatch,Squeal like a hog.

All year climbing possible on the Gulch which has been re-geared and vandalised LO's replaced.

Approach notes

Tidal, but can ab in then jumar out from lower-offs. Budgie bans March-Aug(only in Squeal like a Hog cave) due to inconvenient choughs, although these are some distance away at Bacon Hole. Do make a noisy visit to Bacon hole to look at the potential for some 8+ climbing which is geared up with large glue-ins. Gower hill-billy anti-bolters have stolen/damaged some lower-offs but the routes in the Gulch have been re-geared, ironic as the LOs were meant to leave ledges undisturbed for sea birds.

Restricted Access

The seasonal climbing restriction applies to the zawn east of Minchin Hole (no routes currently) and from Bocso's Cave to Quartz Corner. Bosco's Wall and Bosco's Gulch are not affected by the seasonal restriction. Bosco's Cave itself is highly important as an archaelogical and conservation site and climbing is not permited in the cave itself.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

All routes from "Snatch" to Quartz Corner, including Bucketland and Bacon hole (pernament restriction) are subject to the seasonal restriction.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

South Wales Sport Climbs

South Wales Sport Climbs covers the area to the south of the Brecon Beacons, spanning the land and sea cliffs from the River Wye on the Welsh border to Pembrokeshire in the west. The area is home to a wealth of sport climbing on a multitude of venues ranging from small inland quarries to extensive limestone sea cliffs.
More info
There are no comments from visitors to this crag.
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 King Cnut 5b 1
2 Electrum 6a 1
3 Pantomime Riposte 4a 1
4 Penny Falls 5c 1
5 Golden Plover 5b 1
6 Golden Gate
-
3a  
7 Golden Snitch
-
4a  
  Golden Gulch
9 The Gold Rush 7a *  
10 The Midas Touch 6c+ ** 12
11 A Starke Reminder 6b ** 20
12 Aur of Glory 6a+ ** 25
13 Aur of Need 6a ** 25
14 Golden Oldy S 4a 1
15 Golden Boy 5c * 15
16 Golden Hour 5c 10
  Upper Golden Wall
18 Bye Bye Eddy 6b+ * 4
Climb name Grade
19 All That Glitters, Is Not Gold 7b+ * 3
20 Au 7c+  
21 Shining Dawn 7c * 3
22 Golden Wonder 7b ** 3
23 Gold Digger 6c ** 6
24 Golden Balls 6c * 1
25 Gilded Cage 5b 3
  Bosco's Gulch
27 Sam Can Do It 5a * 3
28 Swansea Hillbillies E2 5c 3
29 Geoff's A Spanner E1 5b 2
30 Geoff's Nutcracker 5c * 2
31 Clap 'Em In Irons 6a 1
32 Simple Simon E2 8
33 Clapham Injunction 6b ** 10
34 Clapham Injunction Direct 6c+ 3
35 Philandering Phillipino 6c * 9
36 Gold Teeth In Them There Hills 6a+ ** 25
Climb name Grade
37 Hanger Them High 6a+ ** 17
38 Y'All Come Back Now 6a+ * 10
39 The Clampetts 6c * 4
40 Jump Over My Shadow 7a * 6
41 Conglomeration 7a * 6
42 Standing On A Beach 6c * 3
43 Reign Of The Deer 7a * 2
44 Snatch 6c+  
45 Starter For Ten 7c ** 1
46 Squeal Like A Hog 6c 1
47 The Millennium Thug 7a * 1
  Paddling Pool Buttress
49 Machiavellian Pillar E3 5b  
50 Choughed to bits E4 6a  
51 Red Room
-
E3 5c  
52 Toe Nail Licks
-
E5 6a  
53 Silent Ocean Calling E6 6a  

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer goi.ashmore