Climbs 42
Rocktype Limestone

Faces S

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Paul Cox on the excellent upper wall of Hanger Them High (6a+) at Bosco's Gulch © Mark Glaister

Crag features

Great wall/cave,in sun 12-15 sport routes with LOs. Bird ban only applies as far as paddling pool and the routes above in the cave e.g Snatch,Squeal like a hog.

All year climbing possible on the Gulch which has been re-geared and vandalised LO's replaced.

Approach notes

Tidal, but can ab in then jumar out from lower-offs. Budgie bans March-Aug(only in Squeal like a Hog cave) due to inconvenient choughs, although these are some distance away at Bacon Hole. Do make a noisy visit to Bacon hole to look at the potential for some 8+ climbing which is geared up with large glue-ins. Gower hill-billy anti-bolters have stolen/damaged some lower-offs but the routes in the Gulch have been re-geared, ironic as the LOs were meant to leave ledges undisturbed for sea birds.

Restricted Access

The seasonal climbing restriction applies to the zawn east of Minchin Hole (no routes currently) and from Bocso's Cave to Quartz Corner. Bosco's Wall and Bosco's Gulch are not affected by the seasonal restriction. Bosco's Cave itself is highly important as an archaelogical and conservation site and climbing is not permited in the cave itself.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

All routes from "Snatch" to Quartz Corner, including Bucketland and Bacon hole (pernament restriction) are subject to the seasonal restriction.

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Guidebooks

South Wales Sport Climbs

South Wales Sport Climbs covers the area to the south of the Brecon Beacons, spanning the land and sea cliffs from the River Wye on the Welsh border to Pembrokeshire in the west. The area is home to a wealth of sport climbing on a multitude of venues ranging from small inland quarries to extensive limestone sea cliffs.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Swansea Hillbillies E2 5c 3
2 Geoff's A Spanner E1 5b 2
  Golden Gulch
4 The Gold Rush 7a *  
5 The Midas Touch 6c+ ** 12
6 A Starke Reminder 6b ** 19
7 Aur of Glory 6a+ ** 24
8 Aur of Need 6a ** 24
9 Golden Oldy S 4a 1
10 Golden Boy 5c * 15
11 Golden Hour 5c 10
  Upper Golden Wall
13 Bye Bye Eddy 6b+ * 4
14 All That Glitters, Is Not Gold 7b+ * 3
15 Au 7c+  
16 Shining Dawn 7c * 3
Climb name Grade
17 Golden Wonder 7b ** 3
18 Gold Digger 6c ** 6
19 Golden Balls 6c * 1
20 Gilded Cage 5b 3
  Bosco's Gulch
22 Geoff's Nutcracker 5c * 2
23 Simple Simon E2 8
24 Clapham Injunction 6b ** 9
25 Clapham Injunction Direct 6c+ 3
26 Philandering Phillipino 6c * 8
27 Gold Teeth In Them There Hills 6a+ ** 22
28 Hanger Them High 6a+ ** 16
29 Y'All Come Back Now 6a+ * 9
30 The Clampetts 6c * 4
31 Jump Over My Shadow 7a * 4
32 Conglomeration 7a * 5
Climb name Grade
33 Standing On A Beach 6c * 3
34 Reign Of The Deer 7a * 2
35 Snatch 6c+  
36 Starter For Ten 7c ** 1
37 Squeal Like A Hog 6c 1
38 The Millennium Thug 7a * 1
39 Sam Can Do It 5a * 3
  Paddling Pool Buttress
41 Machiavellian Pillar E3 5b  
42 Choughed to bits E4 6a  
43 Red Room
-
E3 5c  
44 Toe Nail Licks
-
E5 6a  
45 Silent ocean calling E6 6a  
46 Clap 'Em In Irons 6a 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer goi.ashmore