Climbs 4
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 2300m a.s.l
Faces NW
The wall seen from the middle ledge © Filippo Ghilardini
The wall is beautiful, but the surroundings are even more so. Although not too far from the lower valley it leaves in complete isolation, no noise is heard or lights seen from “civilization.” The rock is excellent in the more compact areas, while in the more broken areas it is necessary to know how to move on adventure terrain. This is a gneiss with abundant quartz intrusions, which forms really large knobs that are very pleasant to climb, as are the beautiful cracks that fill the wall.
The wall was first climbed by Ugo Manera and Isidoro Meneghin on 27/07/1981 in 6 hours. In that occasion the wall was called "Pala d'Unghiasse". This was know just after Fabio Ventre and friends climbed their two routes Thunder and Water in 2017, when they called the wall "Parete Perduta", which means "Lost Wall".
You may eather access from Ceresole, Bocchetta Fioria and then traverse, or better it is possible to leave the car at the Cateri hamlet, before Noasca, and then follow the path that heads toward the Cherson Alp. From here the wall is already visible. Once you have passed the alpine pasture, you either enter the woodland by tracks or better follow the plateau that leads to the other alpine pastures of the basin, almost near a bridge you follow cairns that towards the left climb between the rocky crags, until you reach a huge boulder broken in two, where grazing animals surely used to stay in the past. If you go too far into the hollow, you will need to climb up the bed of one of the streams, which is possible but more strenuous. From the large broken boulder (fantastic bivy places underneath), follow the scree to the obvious wall. About 2.5/3 hours to the boulder and 30-40 minutes for the base of the wall.
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