Climbs 25
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 147m a.s.l
Faces E

Al Rosier on Fairies Wear Boots (6c+) at Tyle y Coch © Rob McAllister

Crag features

The crag has been re-bolted and cleaned over 2013/14. Only the few easy routes to the right of the main wall have not been restored. If you wish to give these all a good clean, drop me a line and I will then re-bolt them.

The crag features a slabby broken right hand side, a vertical central wall containing the main sports routes('Big Tissue' to 'Belly Up') and minor buttress to the left.

The main wall usually requires a good dry spell until it dries out completely. Once dry it stays dry and a couple of climbs can even be done in the heaviest of rain.

The crag faces east and so becomes dark quickly at dusk.

Approach notes

Although this crag is impossible to see from the road, it is less than 100m from the car.
There is a large muddy pull in, on the western (uphill) side of Celynen Road, in which to park the car.
Walk back (south) for 20m whereupon an unmarked footpath (starting at chest height) leads gently uphill for 50m. The path then meets a disused railway track with a brick lined culvert beneath. Jump over the fence opposite and enter the quarry. Have fun.......



South Wales Sport Climbs

South Wales Sport Climbs covers the area to the south of the Brecon Beacons, spanning the land and sea cliffs from the River Wye on the Welsh border to Pembrokeshire in the west. The area is home to a wealth of sport climbing on a multitude of venues ranging from small inland quarries to extensive limestone sea cliffs.
More info
Good crag and quite idyllic in the right conditions, but some of the Rockfax grades are complete bullshit, hopefully will be corrected on here.
Fiend - 11/May/17
Around 150 meters away from the main quarry i have discovered a small bouldering wall. It stands at around 3.5 meters tall and on an angle of 35 degrees overhanging. Ive spent many hours here making up my own boulder problems withdinos, technical and easy routes. This wall is perfect to finish a day off at the end of a days climb at Tyle Y Goch quarry. The wall is quarried and sharp in places however very enjoyable. To find it is rather difficult. Walk down the road from Tyle Y Goch car park towards West End, you will see a small overgrown quarry on the right. Take a steep, muddy trail going up the right side of the quarry. Before the trail turns right, take a left into the upper tear of the road side quarry. You will see the wall in front of you which is set below a 2ft step. Enjoy!
MathewWright1998 - 25/Sep/15
Popped in tonight. Put bolts in to reinstate Mislivings. Started to clean up the trad routes on the left, but needs more work! Good work in re-equipping the crag and cleaning it out folks.
goi.ashmore - 23/Jul/14
poped here on saterday bit damp in places came down only expecting to toprope due to missing bolts/rusted but someone has started to rebolt lovely to see tryed my first 7a outdoors good day out nice climbing after a good few days of dry weather due to seepage
noddy.rhys - 21/Apr/13
whent to the crag yesterday and sombody has smashed or flatend all but to of lower bolts still.ok for drop in
ewog - 02/Apr/09
Went there yesterday and although this is an awesome wall it is still quite wet and greasy.........
pinnochio - 07/Feb/08
Spent the weekend at this crag. Loads of fun!! Will be returning.
Nathan275 - 21/Oct/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Y Caled Caled 7c ** 1
2 Pecker Patrol
E1 5b 2
3 The Postman
E2 5c  
4 The Black Circular Cat
E3 5c  
5 Rump And Scoop 6a * 18
6 Root Canal 6a+ * 11
7 Belly up 7b ** 14
8 A Cleft Stick 7a ** 20
9 The Pink Lady 6c+ * 19
Climb name Grade
10 Paradise Row 7a ** 12
11 Fairies Wear Boots 6c+ ** 22
12 Mislivings 7a ** 12
13 The Four Minute Tyle 7b * 3
14 Peachy 6b+ ** 21
15 The Big Tissue 6b+ * 10
16 Cheeky Arete S 6
17 Bore Hole 3c 14
18 The Ring 3c 16
Climb name Grade
19 Suppose a Tree 4c 17
20 High Moon 6b * 34
21 Enema Of The Affair 6c+ * 24
22 Jumping Jack Flash 4c 21
23 Lilly of The Valleys 3c 19
24 Buen Culo 4b 20
25 Mal Culo 4c 23

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