Climbs 25
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 149m a.s.l
Faces E

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Al Rosier on Fairies Wear Boots (6c+) at Tyle y Coch © Rob McAllister

Crag features

Tyle y Coch quarry is set in a pleasant quiet dell on the hillside between Abercarn and Newbridge. It has a sheer main wall of quality sandstone plus another wall with some pleasant easier offerings.

The crag has been re-bolted and cleaned over 2013/14. Only the few easy routes to the right of the main wall have not been restored. If you wish to give these all a good clean, drop me a line and I will then re-bolt them.

The quarry gets some morning sun but there is a dense tree canopy. Seepage does occur and the Main Wall takes time to dry out; once dry the Main Wall is steep enough to allow climbing in the rain,

Approach notes

Although this crag is impossible to see from the road, it is less than 100m from the car. There is a large muddy pull in, on the western (uphill) side of Celynen Road, in which to park the car.

Walk back (south) for 20m whereupon an unmarked footpath (starting at chest height) leads gently uphill for 50m. The path then meets a disused railway track with a brick lined culvert beneath. Jump over the fence opposite and enter the quarry. 

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South Wales Sport Climbs

South Wales Sport Climbs covers the area to the south of the Brecon Beacons, spanning the land and sea cliffs from the River Wye on the Welsh border to Pembrokeshire in the west. The area is home to a wealth of sport climbing on a multitude of venues ranging from small inland quarries to extensive limestone sea cliffs.
More info
Hi, I added a couple of comments in the lines between Bore Hole and Mal Culo. At the top of Bore Hole there is only one rusted lower off. At the top of Mal Culo, there are massively rusted. The mallion connecting the chain literally crumbled on my hand.
FerClimbs - 16/Apr/19
Good crag and quite idyllic in the right conditions, but some of the Rockfax grades are complete bullshit, hopefully will be corrected on here.
Fiend - 11/May/17
Around 150 meters away from the main quarry i have discovered a small bouldering wall. It stands at around 3.5 meters tall and on an angle of 35 degrees overhanging. Ive spent many hours here making up my own boulder problems withdinos, technical and easy routes. This wall is perfect to finish a day off at the end of a days climb at Tyle Y Goch quarry. The wall is quarried and sharp in places however very enjoyable. To find it is rather difficult. Walk down the road from Tyle Y Goch car park towards West End, you will see a small overgrown quarry on the right. Take a steep, muddy trail going up the right side of the quarry. Before the trail turns right, take a left into the upper tear of the road side quarry. You will see the wall in front of you which is set below a 2ft step. Enjoy!
MathewWright1998 - 25/Sep/15
Popped in tonight. Put bolts in to reinstate Mislivings. Started to clean up the trad routes on the left, but needs more work! Good work in re-equipping the crag and cleaning it out folks.
goi.ashmore - 23/Jul/14
poped here on saterday bit damp in places came down only expecting to toprope due to missing bolts/rusted but someone has started to rebolt lovely to see tryed my first 7a outdoors good day out nice climbing after a good few days of dry weather due to seepage
noddy.rhys - 21/Apr/13
whent to the crag yesterday and sombody has smashed or flatend all but to of lower bolts still.ok for drop in
ewog - 02/Apr/09
Went there yesterday and although this is an awesome wall it is still quite wet and greasy.........
pinnochio - 07/Feb/08
Spent the weekend at this crag. Loads of fun!! Will be returning.
Nathan275 - 21/Oct/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Y Caled Caled 7c ** 1
2 Pecker Patrol
E1 5b 2
3 The Postman
E2 5c  
4 The Black Circular Cat
E3 5c *  
5 Rump and Scoop 6a * 19
6 Root Canal 6a+ * 11
7 Belly up 7b ** 22
8 A Cleft Stick 7a ** 26
9 The Pink Lady 6c+ * 20
Climb name Grade
10 Paradise Row 7a ** 19
11 Fairies Wear Boots 6c+ ** 33
12 The Four Minute Tyle 7b * 4
13 Mislivings 7a ** 9
14 Peachy 6b+ ** 26
15 The Big Tissue 6b+ * 11
16 Cheeky ArĂȘte S 6
17 Bore Hole 3c 16
18 The Ring 3c 16
Climb name Grade
19 Mal Culo 4c 23
20 Buen Culo 4b 20
21 Suppose a Tree 4c 17
22 High Moon 6b * 41
23 Enema of the Affair 6c+ * 25
24 Jumping Jack Flash 4c 24
25 Lilly of The Valleys 3c 19

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