Climbs 14
Rocktype Gneiss
Altitude 1371m a.s.l
Faces SE
Marco Bongiovanni following on "A-Team". © Fabio Elli
Crag features
This is the only crag of the valley completely dedicated to aid climbing, which is a rarity in Italy actually. Originally exploited for the calsses of aid by Jean Marc Troussier in the 90s, it is, nowadyas, a good independent climbing spot. After a long period of abandonment the interest of Fabio Elli has brought this place again to a well worthy position. It features single-pitches or short routes up to four pitches, on the classic gneiss-granite of the area, even if its quality is not always the heighest one. It is not exactly a beginner spot, even if a few lower grades route are present. A bit of material is needed as well a good motivation.
Here the grades and height of the pitches are not always the one reported in the Versante Sud guidebook. This is because the lack of information of the guidebook itself leads to retrive informations elsewhere more reliable.
It is recommended to use the proper material (as indicated in the descriptions available) in order to preserve the rock from demage. Other bolts or similar modifications are to be avoided.
Approach notes
Park below the Sergent in front of the camping "La Pescheria" and walk on the old road (closed by a bar) descending toward Noasca. After 15 minutes or so, pass a tunnel and a few big concrete window of the SS460 tunnel soon after.
For the lower sector take a small dirty road that goes toward Caporal and a few meters later look for a small track disturbed by vegetation that cut through the wall.
For the higher sector, continue on the Caporal track for 10/15 minutes, then, when it goes clearly toward right, leave it and traverse leftward below a short rampart. Cross a gully on easy slabs and grass up to the right most part of the crag. Descend in a small steep gully for 30m to get on the big ledge.
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Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
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