Climbs 100
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 265m a.s.l
Faces all
Crag features
The longest walk in of all the areas (15 minutes) but a host of classic problems makes it worth it, particularly a clutch of fantastic low to mid font 7s. Another beautiful setting, especially as height is gained; the upper pancakes afford delightful views across to Lustleigh and the moor.
Approach notes
Park as for Rock Copse. Walk diagonally across the field and along the obvious path passing a house on your left and a couple of stiles. Once the woods are re-entered, Shaptor Rock will be seen on your right about 50 yards off the path.
Restricted Access
Restricted Access
Shaptor Wood is owned by the Woodland Trust and contains some fantastic quality bouldering with something for everyone. Access problems have arisen recently at this and other bouldering areas on Dartmoor due mainly to excessive cleaning of boulders, but also some other issues. Please follow the Respect the Rock code as well as the following site specific access code of conduct:
No new development - there are in excess of 700 exisiting lines across Bovey Woods as a whole and further development would mean more cleaning and removal of important mosses and lichens. This is a real concern to the landowners and continued development and new cleaning could result in loss of access.
Keep cleaning to a minimum. A completely clean boulder might look good to a climber, but to the landowner it looks a lot like environmental damage. Keep individual holds clean, don't strip entire faces of vegetation.
Chalk really stands out in the environment, so remove as much as possible from the rock before leaving a problem.
Please don't use this area for lantern sessions (night bouldering) - this has been a contributing factor in the developing access concerns of the landowner.
Take your litter home with you as well as any other litter in the area. This includes things like pieces of finger tape which can be easily forgotten.
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Climbs at this crag
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