Climbs 280
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 418m a.s.l
Faces S

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Øyvind flies © Ammatørn

Crag features

The vast bulk of Frontales sits high above the village of El Chorro and offers some of the most important climbing in the area. The central section is dominated by the characteristic oval-shaped cave of Poema de Roca which is where the first routes were put up more than 30 years ago. Since then virtually every section of this vast wall has come to the attention of climbers and it now has many routes across the grade range varying from slabby to severely overhanging, and from short single-pitch to some extended fully-bolted multi-pitch expeditions. Being the first crag you see virtually every day you climb here, it gets a lot of attention with many of the climbs being popular classics. 

Approach notes

There are two basic approaches for the Frontales crags. For the lower sectors from Canada to Momia, the best approach is from the Albercones parking area. This is reached from El Chorro village by following the road which turns off just before the station bar. This leads through the village and on to a dirt track that runs alongside the campsite to a large parking area just beyond - 0.8km from the station bar (next to a fenced off entrance to the railway tunnel). Very occasionally the track is impassable after heavy rain and it is necessary to walk from the station bar  which adds around 5 minutes.

For the sectors from Poema de Roca to Sector Sin Futuro, the best approach is to follow the road through the village up the hill towards Valle de Abdalajis. As the road levels out, and just before the large crag of Las Encantadas, there is a ruined building and water tank (1.2km from the station bar) - park here. Take the upper of two dirt tracks on the left and walk along this for 1km (ignoring a drive to a house on the right and a track that drops off to the left) until the track meets the hillside at a large quarry.

Access Advice

The area is a nature reserve and access to the crags on Frontales and Escalera Arabe is sensitive. You may see people driving up the track from the water tank but it is not allowed and you could well be fined. It only adds around 15 minutes to the walk in.

 

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Guidebooks

Spain : El Chorro

A guidebook to the superb climbing around the village of El Chorro and the famous gorge. Great coverage of the sport climbing on the magnificent crags above the village and in the central gorge. Also includes a number of excellent outlying areas.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Canada
2 El pajaro loco 7a 11
3 Chiguagua 7b ** 9
4 Vaca loco 7b+ * 2
5 Supersonica 7c ** 1
6 Riders on the Storm 7b+ ** 6
7 Emmanuelle 6c+ *** 27
8 Si te vas 7b * 10
  Castrojo
10 Pobre Yon 6a+ 14
11 Estrella 4a 201
12 Jenny 3c 190
13 Randy 4a 119
14 Starter 4a * 196
15 Sector Canada Access 4a * 251
16 Pane pane supermercado 7b+ ** 13
17 Little Brown Baby 7a+ *** 259
18 Projecto hombre 7b+ ** 2
19 Simon ha perdido el panadero 6c+ ** 90
20 Luna Llena 7c ** 13
21 Instinto 6c * 122
22 Keshasun 6b+ ** 45
23 Luna 6a+ *** 523
24 Acuario 6a+ * 16
25 Big Fun 6a+ ** 299
26 Un monton de chatarra 6a *** 564
27 La Putschitrona 6b+ ** 100
28 Los lunnis 5b * 381
29 Lluvia dorada 5a * 403
30 Punto de salida 4a * 283
31 La corona 4c * 315
32 Vas pisando huevos 5a * 448
33 Baron rojo 6b+ * 154
34 Project hombre 7b+ **  
  Albercones (Banned Routes)
36 Trepadero De Accesso
-
5a 2
37 Sapillo Momificado 7b+ * 4
38 Saque De Lengua
-
6b+ * 2
39 Cosa De Dos 6c+ * 3
40 Quite La Ropa 6c 2
41 Troncomovil
-
6a 15
42 Ganimedes
-
6b+ 14
43 Engrasse Le Visgara Macarra
-
6c+ 8
44 Chicuelito Querido
-
6b+ 13
45 Arzapua
-
7b 6
  Los Albercones
47 Via Ferrata El Chorro VF3A *** 52
48 Oceano gris 7a * 123
49 Me duelen los huevos 7a * 89
50 Zulu Express 6a+ ** 259
51 Stanage Girls 6a ** 313
52 La chica peliroja 6a+ ** 265
53 Gabi 6a * 401
54 Putiferio 6a *** 564
55 Ande esta el morico 6a+ * 32
56 El vuelo de los peluos 6a+ ** 262
57 El virgo de vicentela 6b+ *** 200
58 Cita en Sevilla 7b ** 30
59 El truco del almendruco 7a+ ** 105
60 Sufre mamon 7a+ ** 25
61 Malditos roedores 6b+ * 83
62 Espolón Oderse V+ *** 2
63 Los Albercones Main Wall Low Traverse f6A *** 3
64 Putifero 5c *** 3
  Amptrax
66 Pa' lante amigos 6c * 6
67 Son quatros 6b+ * 5
68 Amptrax 6a *** 566
69 Z Mapp 6b ** 14
70 Ebola 6b+ *** 42
71 Apocalipsis 6c *** 44
72 Corazon que no siente 6c+ *** 9
73 Mar de fuego 7a *** 15
74 Via sin nombre (Amptrax) 6b+ ***  
  Suizo
76 Superpotencia 6a+ * 95
77 Mas potencia 6b ** 101
78 Prepotencia 6b * 92
79 Coño paco 7a ** 167
80 Sesso, drogas y flamenco 7a+ *** 115
81 Alicía 7b+ ** 95
82 Bienvenidos al circo 7a+ ** 123
83 New 7b 7b ** 35
84 Irmchen 6a+ *** 295
85 Que leche que tengo 7b ** 50
86 Que leche que tengo (P1) 6b 136
87 Judea del frenta popular 7a+ *** 84
88 Frente popular de Judea 6c+ *** 87
89 No toca la mata 6c ** 23
90 Libertad para Maria 6c+ ** 28
91 Libertad para Maria (P1)
-
5a ** 11
92 Jailhouse Rock 6b * 94
93 Tinto de verano 6a+ *** 111
94 No esta acabda 6b+ ** 93
95 Soñador de grado 4a 10
96 La niña de mis oios 6c+ ** 18
97 La urriki 7a+ ** 6
98 Ajonjoli 7c+ * 2
99 Cuatro elephants 5b ** 89
Climb name Grade
100 Frente popular de Judea (P1) 6b+ *** 5
  Sector Bridwell
102 Sector Bridwell #1 (Obelix)
-
5a 1
103 Sector Bridwell #2 (Es Increible)
-
6c 1
104 Sector Bridwell #3 (Pepe Goteras)
-
5c 2
105 Sector Bridwell #4 (Otilio)
-
6c+ 2
106 Sector Bridwell #5 (Iris)
-
6a 2
107 Sector Bridwell #6 (Bridwell)
-
6b 3
108 Sector Bridwell #7 (Rastaferi Historia)
-
5a 1
  Mundo
110 Kaktus 6a+ ** 12
111 Lluvia del asteroides 5c *** 116
112 Zoenima 6a+ ** 10
113 Mira por dendro (P1) 6b * 3
114 Mira por dentro 6b *** 4
115 Mundo de ideas (P1)
-
6b ** 9
116 Mundo de ideas 6b+ *** 4
117 Bark 6c ** 8
118 Via sin nombre (Mundo) 6a+ * 7
119 Una cualquiera 6a+ * 32
  Momia
121 Makita Power 6c ** 104
122 Welcome to El Chorro 5c ** 195
123 Café burbuscon (P1) 5c ** 30
124 Café burbuscon 7a *** 46
125 Las carruchas del anakrin 5c ** 143
126 Gaia (P1) 6c * 15
127 Gaia 7a+ ** 49
128 El orejazo 7a ** 148
129 Hamunaptra 7c ** 24
130 Hamunaptra - El Orajazo 6c+ ** 10
131 Honk Down 7c *** 83
132 Anack sunamun 7b *** 118
133 Habana Club 7a ** 117
134 Insominio de equipmiento 6c+ ** 121
135 Fluidos vital 7b * 5
136 Seco y Pedro (P1) 6b ** 62
137 Seco y Pedro 7a+ *** 89
138 Seco y Pedro Right 6c *** 17
139 Seco y Pedro Right 2 6b+ *** 51
140 Café burbuscon (P2) 6c *** 5
141 Seco y Pedro Right 2 (P2) 6a * 5
  Black Cave
143 Out of Vogue (P1) 6a * 7
144 Out of Vogue 7a+ * 11
145 Escalador casual 6c *  
146 Antidoto 8a * 10
147 El padre Orillos 8a * 7
148 Black Cave 7a+ * 21
149 Hora kane 7b+ * 6
150 El fin de una vida (P1) 7b ** 4
151 El fin de una vida 7c *** 5
152 Muchachito bombo inferno (P1) 7b+ **  
153 Muchachito bombo infierno 7c+ ***  
154 Unamed 8a
-
8a * 2
155 Costris Climbers
-
7c 1
156 Verdes venenas 7a+ *** 18
157 Hierbes letales 7a+ ** 11
158 Checkout 6b+ * 25
159 Caletamiento 6a * 15
160 Verdes Venenas (P1) 6b * 4
161 Escalador casual (P1) 6b 4
  Poema de Roca
163 Truco Final 8a ** 2
164 Kervala 8b ** 3
165 Sharkevala 8c+ ***  
166 Maquina cualquiera (P1) 7b ** 6
167 Maquina cualquiera 7b+ *** 20
168 El complot 8a+ ** 5
169 La villa strangiato 7b ** 101
170 La villa strangiato Extension
-
8a+ *** 1
171 Eye of the Storm 7c *** 57
172 Eye of the Storm Extension
-
8b *** 3
173 Thunder Struck 7c+ *** 12
174 Thunder Struck Extension 8b 1
175 Swimming Through a Shark Attack 8a+ *** 19
176 Shark Extension
-
8b *** 2
177 Mizery - Shark Conexion
-
8b+ *** 1
178 Mizery 8b+ *** 1
179 La Cuca 8a *** 14
180 Viejos rockeros 8a+ * 2
181 Poema de Roca (P1) 7a *** 448
182 Poema de Roca (P2) 7c *** 3
183 Poema de Roca 7c+ *** 13
184 Licantropia de plenilunio 7c 7
185 Rima Libre 7c+ ** 21
186 Rima Rockeros 8b ** 2
187 Viejo traidor 7b+ *** 101
188 Sarracenos 7c+ ** 2
189 Morritos jaeger 7b ** 40
190 XXL 8a ** 4
191 Via de Rudolf 8a *** 7
192 Los senores de asfis 7c+ *** 4
193 Viejo amigo 7a ** 147
194 Newie 6c * 120
195 García aguas 6b ** 291
196 Mamacita 8a *** 6
197 El ave fénix 7c+ ** 9
198 Gabiel Hermafrodita 7c+ *** 7
Climb name Grade
199 Oh no Flo 6a+ 5
200 Escorpion 6b * 174
201 The Splits 6c * 40
202 Slimbo 7b * 30
203 Stonker 6b * 326
204 La princesa Carol 5c * 268
205 Federacion corruta ? ***  
206 Mariada de payasos none *** 4
207 Talibania L1
-
7c ** 18
208 Talibania 7c ** 39
209 Egoa.nu 7b+ ***  
210 Pesadillo 8a ***  
211 Vivac porus 7a+ ** 56
212 Vivac Porus Extension 8a+ *** 2
213 El don nadie 7c *** 2
214 Si no hay rally no hay chapas 7c *** 2
215 El señor de las tinieblas (P1) 6b+ ** 9
216 El señor de las tinieblas 7a ** 94
217 Fahrenheit 6c 39
  The Solarium
219 Mal de ojo 7a ** 15
220 Sucias artimañas 7a 1
221 Compacteibol 6b+ 1
222 Nido de Bolillos 6a ** 33
223 Las amigas de Lulu 5a * 113
224 El osito polar 5a * 123
225 Estrella Polar 6b *** 68
226 Solarium Left 7c * 2
227 Solarium 7b ** 20
228 Lobo López 7a+ *** 11
229 Clint Eastwood 6b+ * 42
230 Deprisa y con bulla 6c * 108
231 Agip 6b ** 185
232 Billy the Kid 6b+ ** 48
233 Nanuz 6a+ ** 186
  Austria
235 Edelweiss 4c * 129
236 Left of Tall People 6b ** 17
237 Tall People 6b *** 144
238 Small People 6b *** 174
239 The Big Leaning Arete 7b+ *  
240 Wienes Schnitzel 6c ** 39
241 Full Moon 6a+ ** 118
242 Rock me Amadeus 5c * 11
243 Sumsi 4a * 128
244 Don Lucas 6b * 98
245 Mugl 5b * 216
246 Bub oder madl 6b+ * 40
247 Finkastinker 4a * 152
248 Nitti 5c *** 316
249 Bombay Sapphire 6b ** 11
250 Valentines Day 6a *** 415
251 A pique de un repique 6c 29
  Olimpo
253 Los aristogatos 6c  
254 Hijos de la luna 6c  
255 Micro patata 5b  
256 Yerma 7a+  
257 Munon free 7a+  
258 La banda del sur 8b **  
259 Left of Endless Power ? ***  
260 Endless Power 8c+ ***  
261 Endless Power Direct Project ***  
262 Trango Power 8c ***  
263 Trango 8b *** 4
264 Trango L1 8b *** 2
265 Trango (Second Pitch)
-
8a *** 1
266 Kukeman tupery 7c ** 1
  Tango
268 Rock nini 6a * 14
269 En que piensa el tango 5b * 8
270 Oso yogui Plus 1 8a+ *  
271 Oso yogui Plus 2 7c *  
272 Oso yogui 5c 6
273 Ritual felino 7c * 1
274 La eterna busqueda de la Ana 7b *  
275 Sexo, hierba y vertical 6b+ *** 17
276 Alma de roca 6b+ * 10
277 El tango no me quiere 6c ** 11
278 El tango ya me quiere 6c+ ** 4
279 James Bolt 7a+ * 1
280 Rafael Ibero 6c+ *  
  Sin Futuro
282 Sin futuro 7a+ ** 1
283 Sportbilly 6c ***  
284 Sin Futuro Steep Line ? ***  
285 Left of Lone Bolt ? ***  
286 Gollum bueno ? ***  
287 Gollum malo 6a *  
288 Rabillos de pasas 6b+ **  
289 Tila pa el estress 6a **  
290 Pocas pilas 5c *  
291 Inventatelo 5b * 1
292 Gerard Attack 5c **  
293 Bienmesabe 6c **  
  Unknown Routes
295 Suizo
-
5c 3
296 Varon de Rivolta 6a+ 2
297 Vuelo de los Vicentala
-
6a+ * 2

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