UKC

Climbs 278
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 418m a.s.l
Faces S

Øyvind flies © Ammatørn

Crag features

The vast bulk of Frontales sits high above the village of El Chorro and offers some of the most important climbing in the area. The central section is dominated by the characteristic oval-shaped cave of Poema de Roca which is where the first routes were put up more than 30 years ago. Since then virtually every section of this vast wall has come to the attention of climbers and it now has many routes across the grade range varying from slabby to severely overhanging, and from short single-pitch to some extended fully-bolted multi-pitch expeditions. Being the first crag you see virtually every day you climb here, it gets a lot of attention with many of the climbs being popular classics. 

Approach notes

There are two basic approaches for the Frontales crags. For the lower sectors from Canada to Momia, the best approach is from the Albercones parking area. This is reached from El Chorro village by following the road which turns off just before the station bar. This leads through the village and on to a dirt track that runs alongside the campsite to a large parking area just beyond - 0.8km from the station bar (next to a fenced off entrance to the railway tunnel). Very occasionally the track is impassable after heavy rain and it is necessary to walk from the station bar  which adds around 5 minutes.

For the sectors from Poema de Roca to Sector Sin Futuro, the best approach is to follow the road through the village up the hill towards Valle de Abdalajis. As the road levels out, and just before the large crag of Las Encantadas, there is a ruined building and water tank (1.2km from the station bar) - park here. Take the upper of two dirt tracks on the left and walk along this for 1km (ignoring a drive to a house on the right and a track that drops off to the left) until the track meets the hillside at a large quarry.

Access Advice

The area is a nature reserve and access to the crags on Frontales and Escalera Arabe is sensitive. You may see people driving up the track from the water tank but it is not allowed and you could well be fined. It only adds around 15 minutes to the walk in.

 

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Guidebooks

Spain : El Chorro

A guidebook to the superb climbing around the village of El Chorro and the famous gorge. Great coverage of the sport climbing on the magnificent crags above the village and in the central gorge. Also includes a number of excellent outlying areas.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Canada
2 El pajaro loco 7a 11
3 Chiguagua 7b ** 9
4 Vaca loco 7b+ * 2
5 Supersonica 7c ** 1
6 Riders on the Storm 7b+ ** 5
7 Emmanuelle 6c+ *** 23
8 Si te vas 7b * 10
  Castrojo
10 Pobre Yon 6a+ 6
11 Estrella 4a 180
12 Jenny 3c 167
13 Randy 4a 105
14 Starter 4a * 166
15 Sector Canada Access 4a * 215
16 Pane pane supermercado 7b+ ** 6
17 Little Brown Baby 7a+ *** 245
18 Projecto hombre 7b+ ** 2
19 Simon ha perdido el panadero 6c+ ** 81
20 Luna Llena 7c ** 12
21 Instinto 6c * 113
22 Keshasun 6b+ ** 38
23 Luna 6a+ *** 487
24 Acuario 6a+ * 5
25 Big Fun 6a+ ** 279
26 Un monton de chatarra 6a *** 519
27 La Putschitrona 6b+ ** 91
28 Los lunnis 5b * 349
29 Lluvia dorada 5a * 368
30 Punto de salida 4a * 263
31 La corona 4c * 292
32 Vas pisando huevos 5a * 405
33 Baron rojo 6b+ * 144
34 Project hombre 7b+ **  
  Albercones (Banned Routes)
36 Trepadero De Accesso
-
5a 2
37 Sapillo Momificado 7b+ * 4
38 Saque De Lengua
-
6b+ * 2
39 Cosa De Dos 6c+ * 3
40 Quite La Ropa 6c 2
41 Troncomovil
-
6a 15
42 Ganimedes
-
6b+ 14
43 Engrasse Le Visgara Macarra
-
6c+ 8
44 Chicuelito Querido
-
6b+ 13
45 Arzapua
-
7b 6
  Los Albercones
47 Via Ferrata El Chorro VF3A 15
48 Oceano gris 7a * 109
49 Me duelen los huevos 7a * 86
50 Zulu Express 6a+ ** 240
51 Stanage Girls 6a ** 280
52 La chica peliroja 6a+ ** 243
53 Gabi 6a * 379
54 Putiferio 6a *** 527
55 Ande esta el morico 6a+ * 28
56 El vuelo de los peluos 6a+ ** 243
57 El virgo de vicentela 6b+ *** 186
58 Cita en Sevilla 7b ** 25
59 El truco del almendruco 7a+ ** 102
60 Sufre mamon 7a+ ** 25
61 Malditos roedores 6b+ * 77
62 Espolón Oderse V+ *** 2
63 Los Albercones Main Wall Low Traverse f6A *** 3
64 Putifero 5c ***  
  Amptrax
66 Pa' lante amigos 6c * 6
67 Son quatros 6b+ * 5
68 Amptrax 6a *** 513
69 Z Mapp 6b ** 8
70 Ebola 6b+ *** 29
71 Apocalipsis 6c *** 30
72 Corazon que no siente 6c+ *** 6
73 Mar de fuego 7a *** 10
74 Via sin nombre (Amptrax) 6b+ ***  
  Suizo
76 Superpotencia 6a+ * 89
77 Mas potencia 6b ** 96
78 Prepotencia 6b * 92
79 Coño paco 7a ** 161
80 Sesso, drogas y flamenco 7a+ *** 105
81 Alicía 7b+ ** 87
82 Bienvenidos al circo 7a+ ** 116
83 New 7b 7b ** 33
84 Irmchen 6a+ *** 276
85 Que leche que tengo 7b ** 46
86 Que leche que tengo (P1) 6b 127
87 Judea del frenta popular 7a+ *** 75
88 Frente popular de Judea 6c+ *** 78
89 No toca la mata 6c ** 15
90 Libertad para Maria 6c+ ** 23
91 Libertad para Maria (P1)
-
5a ** 5
92 Jailhouse Rock 6b * 86
93 Tinto de verano 6a+ *** 101
94 No esta acabda 6b+ ** 84
95 Soñador de grado 4a 9
96 La niña de mis oios 6c+ ** 13
97 La urriki 7a+ ** 6
98 Ajonjoli 7c+ * 2
99 Cuatro elephants 5b ** 84
Climb name Grade
100 Frente popular de Judea (P1) * 6b+ *** 4
  Sector Bridwell
102 Sector Bridwell #1 (Obelix)
-
5a 1
103 Sector Bridwell #2 (Es Increible)
-
6c 1
104 Sector Bridwell #3 (Pepe Goteras)
-
5c 2
105 Sector Bridwell #4 (Otilio)
-
6c+ 2
106 Sector Bridwell #5 (Iris)
-
6a 2
107 Sector Bridwell #6 (Bridwell)
-
6b 3
108 Sector Bridwell #7 (Rastaferi Historia)
-
5a 1
  Mundo
110 Kaktus 6a+ ** 11
111 Lluvia del asteroides 5c *** 93
112 Zoenima 6a+ ** 6
113 Mira por dendro (P1) 6b * 2
114 Mira por dentro 6b *** 3
115 Mundo de ideas (P1)
-
6b ** 8
116 Mundo de ideas 6b+ *** 3
117 Bark 6c ** 5
118 Via sin nombre (Mundo) 6a+ * 5
119 Una cualquiera 6a+ * 31
  Momia
121 Makita Power 6c ** 92
122 Welcome to El Chorro 5c ** 175
123 Café burbuscon (P1) 5c ** 15
124 Café burbuscon 7a *** 41
125 Las carruchas del anakrin 5c ** 127
126 Gaia (P1) 6c * 7
127 Gaia 7a+ ** 44
128 El orejazo 7a ** 137
129 Hamunaptra 7c ** 21
130 Hamunaptra - El Orajazo 6c+ ** 4
131 Honk Down 7c *** 77
132 Anack sunamun 7b *** 106
133 Habana Club 7a ** 107
134 Insominio de equipmiento 6c+ ** 115
135 Fluidos vital 7b * 1
136 Seco y Pedro (P1) 6b ** 48
137 Seco y Pedro 7a+ *** 85
138 Seco y Pedro Right 6c *** 3
139 Seco y Pedro Right 2 6b+ *** 28
  Black Cave
141 Out of Vogue (P1) 6a * 1
142 Out of Vogue 7a+ * 7
143 Escalador casual 6c *  
144 Antidoto 8a * 8
145 El padre Orillos 8a * 7
146 Black Cave 7a+ * 15
147 Hora kane 7b+ * 3
148 El fin de una vida (P1) 7b ** 1
149 El fin de una vida 7c *** 5
150 Muchachito bombo inferno (P1) 7b+ **  
151 Muchachito bombo infierno 7c+ ***  
152 Unamed 8a
-
8a * 2
153 Costris Climbers
-
7c 1
154 Verdes venenas 7a+ *** 14
155 Hierbes letales 7a+ ** 8
156 Checkout 6b+ * 21
157 Caletamiento 6a * 8
158 Verdes Venenas (P1) * 6b * 1
159 Escalador casual (P1) * 6b 1
  Poema de Roca
161 Truco Final 8a ** 2
162 Kervala 8b ** 3
163 Sharkevala 8c+ ***  
164 Maquina cualquiera (P1) 7b ** 1
165 Maquina cualquiera 7b+ *** 17
166 El complot 8a+ ** 5
167 La villa strangiato 7b ** 97
168 La villa strangiato Extension
-
8a+ *** 1
169 Eye of the Storm 7c *** 52
170 Eye of the Storm Extension
-
8b *** 2
171 Thunder Struck 7c+ *** 13
172 Thunder Struck Extension 8b 1
173 Swimming Through a Shark Attack 8a+ *** 14
174 Shark Extension
-
8b *** 2
175 Mizery - Shark Conexion
-
8b+ *** 1
176 Mizery 8b+ *** 1
177 La Cuca 8a *** 12
178 Viejos rockeros 8a+ * 2
179 Poema de Roca (P1) 7a *** 420
180 Poema de Roca (P2) 7c *** 3
181 Poema de Roca 7c+ *** 13
182 Licantropia de plenilunio 7c 3
183 Rima Libre 7c+ ** 20
184 Rima Rockeros 8b ** 2
185 Viejo traidor 7b+ *** 95
186 Sarracenos 7c+ ** 2
187 Morritos jaeger 7b ** 40
188 XXL 8a ** 4
189 Via de Rudolf 8a *** 6
190 Los senores de asfis 7c+ *** 4
191 Viejo amigo 7a ** 138
192 Newie 6c * 116
193 García aguas 6b ** 273
194 Mamacita 8a *** 6
195 El ave fénix 7c+ ** 9
196 Gabiel Hermafrodita 7c+ *** 5
197 Oh no Flo 6a+ 3
198 Escorpion 6b * 165
Climb name Grade
199 The Splits 6c * 37
200 Slimbo 7b * 30
201 Stonker 6b * 313
202 La princesa Carol 5c * 257
203 Federacion corruta ? ***  
204 Mariada de payasos ? *** 2
205 Talibania L1
-
7c ** 14
206 Talibania 7c ** 36
207 Egoa.nu 7b+ ***  
208 Pesadillo 8a ***  
209 Vivac porus 7a+ ** 54
210 Vivac Porus Extension 8a+ ** 2
211 El don nadie 7c *** 1
212 Si no hay rally no hay chapas 7c *** 2
213 El señor de las tinieblas (P1) 6b+ ** 2
214 El señor de las tinieblas 7a ** 91
215 Fahrenheit 6c 36
  The Solarium
217 Mal de ojo 7a ** 13
218 Sucias artimañas 7a 1
219 Compacteibol 6b+ 1
220 Nido de Bolillos 6a ** 27
221 Las amigas de Lulu 5a * 104
222 El osito polar 5a * 115
223 Estrella Polar 6b *** 55
224 Solarium Left 7c * 2
225 Solarium 7b ** 19
226 Lobo López 7a+ *** 11
227 Clint Eastwood 6b+ * 39
228 Deprisa y con bulla 6c * 103
229 Agip 6b ** 179
230 Billy the Kid 6b+ ** 44
231 Nanuz 6a+ ** 180
  Austria
233 Edelweiss 4c * 125
234 Left of Tall People 6b ** 7
235 Tall People 6b *** 134
236 Small People 6b *** 161
237 The Big Leaning Arete 7b+ *  
238 Wienes Schnitzel 6c ** 34
239 Full Moon 6a+ ** 110
240 Rock me Amadeus 5c * 10
241 Sumsi 4a * 121
242 Don Lucas 6b * 93
243 Mugl 5b * 206
244 Bub oder madl 6b+ * 38
245 Finkastinker 4a * 144
246 Nitti 5c *** 301
247 Bombay Sapphire 6b ** 3
248 Valentines Day 6a *** 385
249 A pique de un repique 6c 25
  Olimpo
251 Los aristogatos 6c  
252 Hijos de la luna 6c  
253 Micro patata 5b  
254 Yerma 7a+  
255 Munon free 7a+  
256 La banda del sur 8b **  
257 Left of Endless Power ? ***  
258 Endless Power 8c+ ***  
259 Endless Power Direct Project ***  
260 Trango Power 8c ***  
261 Trango 8b *** 4
262 Trango L1 8b *** 3
263 Trango (Second Pitch)
-
8a *** 1
264 Kukeman tupery 7c ** 1
  Tango
266 Rock nini 6a * 5
267 En que piensa el tango 5b * 3
268 Oso yogui Plus 1 8a+ *  
269 Oso yogui Plus 2 7c *  
270 Oso yogui 5c 2
271 Ritual felino 7c * 1
272 La eterna busqueda de la Ana 7b *  
273 Sexo, hierba y vertical 6b+ *** 7
274 Alma de roca 6b+ * 8
275 El tango no me quiere 6c ** 5
276 El tango ya me quiere 6c+ ** 2
277 James Bolt 7a+ * 1
278 Rafael Ibero 6c+ *  
  Sin Futuro
280 Sin futuro 7a+ ** 1
281 Sportbilly 6c ***  
282 Sin Futuro Steep Line ? ***  
283 Left of Lone Bolt ? ***  
284 Gollum bueno ? ***  
285 Gollum malo 6a *  
286 Rabillos de pasas 6b+ **  
287 Tila pa el estress 6a **  
288 Pocas pilas 5c *  
289 Inventatelo 5b * 1
290 Gerard Attack 5c **  
291 Bienmesabe 6c **  
  Unknown Routes
293 Suizo
-
5c 3
294 Varon de Rivolta 6a+ 2
295 Vuelo de los Vicentala
-
6a+ * 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Franco Cookson