Climbs 49
Rocktype Schist
Altitude 101m a.s.l
Faces all
Crag features
A new bouldering area in the deepest South Hams. The rock is mica schist, which for lead climbing can be rather ‘schist’, but for bouldering it turns out can be rather good.
The rocks are old, with different sources ageing the original, pre-metamorphosis, rock at either lower Devonian (400 million or so years old) or perhaps back to Pre-Cambrian (600 million), making it some of the oldest rocks in the south of the UK.
It should be possible to download a pdf guide from the below link. The file seems to format to a laptop okay, but go a bit odd on a phone. If so then rely on the photos of each page uploaded to the photos bit of this crag:
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1PIcU3XFnfJWwof3jFR5F4WQQpOi0_xXmsizeYnFLy0s/edit?usp=sharing
There are a few other topo photos added for specific problems / boulders. Note that the mobile phone signal is poor. It would be worth taking screen shots or hard copies before you get there.
Please also vote on grades ... and take these first attempts as a best guess. Recent trips to Dartmoor suggest they may be too soft!
Approach notes
Park at the far end of the National Trust’s Bolberry Down car park. This can be found off the back road between Marlborough and Hope Cove (what3words onions.move.slung ) £3 for non-members. (A café is in the buildings 200m to the west by the way.) Walk south-east down the coast path for 200m or so. About 100m after a wooden gate there is a path on the left through another gate – shown by pink line on the Google Earth image in the mini-guide.
The first set of rocks can be seen straight ahead. SX 6936 3826. Lat/Long = 50 degrees 13min 47.7 sec north. 03 49 58.1 W. This is the ‘First Lump’ and is circled in red on the image. The ‘Second Lump’ is circled in yellow and the ‘Mushroom Blocks’ area is in blue, with it’s access paths shown by the blue lines.
No Access Issues
None known, but it is on National Trust land so be respectful.
| There are no comments from visitors to this crag. |
Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.
Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer andy_pemberton