Climbs 114
Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 400m a.s.l

Will on Central Crack - HVS 5a- Wilton 3 - 31/03/09 © Andrew 99

Approach notes

No climbing allowed Weds, Fri and Sun as used by gun club.

Access Advice

Wilton 3 is owned by Bolton Gun Club with agreed times for shooting and climbing - live firing takes place and it is vital that climbers understand and follow the agreed access arrangements. A new approach has recently been agreed – please see the ‘access’ section below for details as the old approach through the front gate is no longer possible.

Climbers have priority on Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays. Shooters have priority on Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays and if shooting, red flags will be flying around the top of the quarry as well as on the approach.

On shooting days when the red warning flags are not in place, climbers can access the quarries, but if shooters arrive later, please pack up and leave as soon as safely possible. Please try to avoid the temptation of assuming that the ranges are not being used until at least mid-afternoon. On days when climbers have priority, the shooters can use the sites if climbers are not present when they arrive. However, if climbers arrive shooting must stop. If shooting is taking place on a climbing day, enter the quarry using the route detailed in the ‘access’ section below and approach the shooters hut along the newly landscaped path (which takes you safely behind the line of fire). Politely ask the shooters to stop and allow them a reasonable amount of time to clear up.

Climbers have an additional day in Wilton 3 on Mondays compared to Wilton 2 & 4. If the neighbouring gun club are using Wilton 2 but Wilton 3 is not being used, climbers can still use Wilton 3, provided that they do not climb the routes on Orange Wall (i.e. routes between Twin Cracks and Orange Corner inclusive). On these days, climbers must not pass the fence on the ridge between Wilton 2 and 3 or descend past it.

Guidebooks

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Lancashire Rock (2016)
Lancashire Bouldering (2014)
Lancashire Rock (1999)

Out of print:
There have been some changes made to the shooting range, this has involved some excavations - its at the far right of waterfall buttress and appears to effect all the routes between "Cabbage man meets the death egg" and "Route One", Route one, two and three are about two metres longer!
agolay - 02/Jul/13
Wilton 3 not as bad as number 1 with a good range of severe graded climbs. Tends to get more sun than Wilton 1 & can make a pleasant evening climb. If your taking the time to go to wilton 1 then a good warm up at wilton 3 is possible. Your may never reach Wilton 1
Lee Foster - 27/Nov/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Orange Wall
2 Twin Cracks D 133
3 Sneck S 4a 65
4 Coll's Idea E1 5a 2
5 Al's Idea E1 5c 88
6 Zee S 4a 24
7 Great Chimney D 77
8 Orange Wall VS 4b 232
9 Cracked Orange HVS 5a 11
10 Orange Crack HS 4b 313
11 Justine S 4a 151
12 Orange Groove VD * 239
13 Monolith Crack VS 4b 152
14 Cedric S 4a * 220
15 Orange Squash
-
E3 6a 4
16 Orange Corner VD 282
17 Oak Leaf Wall VS 4b 150
18 Tea Leaf VS 4b 81
19 Oak Leaf Crack VD * 408
20 Forked Cracks VS 4b * 415
21 Parallel Cracks S 4a * 543
22 The Groove VD * 269
23 No Idea
-
VS 4b 31
24 Slime Chimney VD * 183
  Constable's Overhang Area
26 Get Off It!
-
E2 5b  
27 The Grader E3 5c ** 85
28 Lightning E3 5c * 28
29 Thunder HVS 5a 13
30 Constable's Overhang E5 6b ** 19
31 Nameless Edge HVS 5a * 3
32 Slipshod E1 5a * 15
33 Green Slabs VD 38
34 Fallout
-
VS 4b 12
35 Pulley S 4a 22
36 Block and Tackle VD 21
37 The Arete VS 4b * 12
38 Howling Hamish HVS 5a 2
39 Central Crack HVS 5a *** 470
40 Mutant Peanut
-
E1 5b 6
41 Crack and Slab Variant D * 98
42 Ascendveass VS 4b 2
43 Crack and Slab D ** 151
44 Chockstone Crack
-
VD 4
45 Monster under the Bed E1 5b ** 3
  30 Foot Buttress
47 Bloomer
-
S 4a 2
48 Groper
-
HS 4a 1
49 Meat and three veg! HVS 5a * 2
50 30ft Wall HVS 5a * 8
51 30-foot Wall (Direct start)
-
HVS 6a 1
52 40ft Corner VS 4c * 43
  Waterfall Buttress
54 Canine Crucifixtion E2 5c ** 129
55 Chikarna
-
E4 6b  
56 Brastium E1 5b * 68
57 Betty's Wall HVS 5a * 24
58 Cabbage Man Meets the Death Egg E3 5c  
59 Hodgepie Boogie E3 5c  
60 Route Four
-
S 4a 5
61 Route Three
-
VD 4
62 Route Two
-
HVS 5a 3
63 Rote One
-
D 6
64 Fire and Theft E3 5c  
  Rappel Wall Area
66 Barbecue
-
S 4a 145
67 Rappel Wall VD ** 487
68 Peg Free VS 4c 71
69 Shivers Arete E1 5b ** 532
70 Shivers Canopy E1 5b ** 9
71 Canopy HVS 5a * 236
72 Rappell Wall Indirect
-
VS 4c 13
73 Kay VS 4b ** 172
74 Easy to Cheat
-
E2 5c 3
75 Crooked Crack VS 4c ** 352
76 The Gay Dwarfs and Mr Plod Go to the Tuppaware Party E2 5b 32
77 Mo HS 4b * 598
78 Miney VD 322
79 Meeny VD 425
80 Eeny VD 347
81 North Wall
-
VD 51
  The Playground
83 North Corner
-
VD 19
84 Curver
-
VD 16
85 Finger distance
-
HVS 6a 4
86 Short Chimney
-
D 22
87 Belly Wedge Buttress
-
VD 22
88 Belly Wedge Chimney
-
VD 30
89 Belly Wedge Wall
-
S 4a 16
90 The Slab D 44
91 Unnamed Crack D 26
92 Hanging Arete D 35
93 Right Hand Route VS 4c * 24
  Bouldering
95 Rodin's Requiem E5 6c * 4
96 The Square V2 5c ** 29
97 Common Knowledge V5 6b *** 6
98 The Starship f7C * 9
99 Scuffle Bucket f7B ** 4
100 Breakout f5 4
101 Crack and Slab f3 9
102 Shiver's Arete f4+ 12
103 The Gay Dwarves and Mr Plod Go To The Tupperware Party f5+ 12
104 Lithuanian Lunchbox Luvvies f6A+ 9
105 Great Gritish Flake-Off f4 13
106 The Old Wiltonian f4 6
107 Doozy f4 * 10
108 Snoozy f4+ 10
109 The Pinchee f6B 6
110 The Pincher f6B 8
111 Not Much Ado f6B 6
112 The Sausage Springs Free f6C 3
113 Lock Me Up f6B 2
114 Lock Me Down f6C 2
115 Things That Go Erk f6B 2
116 Wingspan f6A+ * 3
117 Two Right f6A 2
118 Rodin's Requiem SDS f8A ** 1
119 Common or Garden Squiggle f6C+ 1
120 The Grader Direct f5+ * 1

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