Climbs 116
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 3m a.s.l
Faces W

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Found it at last! © mjeffery

Crag features

An esoteric area between Whitesands Bay and Porthlysgi. Most of the climbs face west or north-west making this a good spot for summer evenings, although the best crag in the area, Pen y Foel, faces south. The views over Ramsey Sound, the amazing tidal currents, and the wild flowers partially compensate for the rather poor quality of the rock.

Approach notes

Approach from St. Justinian's car park in 5-30 mins.

Bring your own belay spike: the ones mentioned in the guidebook are either very difficult to find, or long since gone. 

The photo attached to this crag doesn't look like the crag!
Andy Say - 06/Jun/16
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  *Pencarnan Zawns*
  First Zawn
3 Seal Slab
-
S  
4 Locum Notion
-
HVS 5a  
5 Freelance Armstrong
-
HVS 5a  
  Second Zawn
7 The Deceiver
-
HS 4a  
8 A Man Called Noon
-
HVS 4c  
  Third Zawn
10 The Long Hot Summer
-
HVS 4c  
11 1,000 Islands
-
HS 4a  
  Narrow Zawn
13 Zawn Corner
-
VS 4b  
14 Blade Runner
-
E3 5b  
15 Dekapod
-
E2 5b * 1
16 The Pear
-
HVS 5b * 1
17 Narrow Zawn Slab
-
HS 4b 4
18 Applejack
-
VS 4b 1
19 Slow and Steady
-
HVS 4c  
20 Lost Dolly HS 4b  
21 Calm Sea Corner VS 4c  
  *Pencarnan Slabs Area*
  Recess Slab/Trident Area
24 Slabside HS 4b  
25 Deep Groove HS 4b  
26 Cyclops
-
HS 4b  
27 Ulysses HS 4b  
28 The Trident HS 4b  
  Pencarnan Slabs
30 Ochre Ridge D  
31 Short Corner
-
VD  
32 Long Corner
-
D  
33 Left Ridge
-
D  
34 Right Ridge
-
D  
35 Pencarnan Slab Climb
-
VD 5
36 Lichen Slab Crack D 5
37 Lichen Groove
-
S  
38 Lichen Slab
-
D  
39 Right Crack
-
D  
  Point St. John
41 Sandra's Success
-
HS 4a  
42 Well Spotted
-
HVS 5a  
43 Sexy Wet Woman
-
HVS 4b  
  Sphinx Bay
45 I'm Lichen the Traverse 6a  
46 Neaps Is It 6a  
47 Visible Eddy 6a  
Climb name Grade
48 Crunchy Black Lichen 6b  
49 Curvy Twins Cracks 6a+  
50 Finger Lichen Chicken 5c  
51 Gabbro Wall
-
S  
52 Crossroads
-
M  
53 Snuff Dry
-
VD  
54 Peppercorn
-
VD  
55 Left Yellow Shale Corner
-
S  
56 Right Yellow Shale Corner
-
D  
57 Septuagenarian
-
S 4a  
58 Summer's End
-
S 4a  
59 Further Right
-
VD  
60 Thank Goodness It's Over
-
HS 4a  
  Porth Cadnaw
62 Funneline
-
HS  
63 Red Line
-
E3 5b  
64 White Streak
-
E1 5a  
65 Trigain
-
HVS 4c  
  *Llenrac Slabs*
  Llenrac North
68 Dremel Cuts HVS 4c * 1
69 Bebe Chimney HS 4a 2
70 Underpant Slab HVS 4c  
71 Avoidance VD 1
72 Block Corner D  
73 Brown Bum Slab HVS 4c 1
74 Jockarette HVS 4c  
  Llenrac Main Slabs
76 Badgers Slab
-
VS 4c 4
77 Tiddler
-
VS 4c 5
78 Urinal
-
HS 4a  
79 Ruff Puff
-
VS 4b  
80 Jubilee Slab
-
HVS 4c  
81 Flaky Pastry
-
VS 4b  
82 Robbin's Bow
-
VS 4b 3
83 Burmah
-
HVS 5a  
84 Narrow Slab
-
HS 4b 4
85 Toad Corner
-
HS 4b  
86 Dusty Wall VS 4b 4
87 Geryhatric
-
S 3
88 Royle Flush
-
S 4a 3
89 Left Arête
-
S 1
90 'Im
-
HS 4a * 7
91 Hors d'Oeuvre
-
VD  
92 'Er
-
D 2
93 Zawn Exit
-
HVS 4c 1
94 Plunging Plonker
-
S 2
Climb name Grade
95 Oyster Catcher
-
HS 4b  
96 April Fool Girdle
-
VS 4b  
  Wooden Fence Zawn
98 Flake Slab
-
S 4a  
99 Itsmine Slab
-
S 4a  
100 Fence Slab
-
S 4a  
101 Indigo
-
VD  
  Green Slab
103 Chin Pie
-
HS 4b  
104 Sea Jade
-
VS 4b 1
105 Mosaic
-
VS 4c 1
106 Brown Slab
-
VS 4c 1
  Purple Slab
108 Rainbow Slab
-
VD  
109 Purple Pleasure
-
S  
  Castell Heinif
111 Knuckle Knocker
-
D  
  Maen Bachau
113 Wheelnuts
-
HVS 4c  
114 Traitor's Gate
-
S  
  Pen Dal-Aderyn
116 Arch Slab
-
HS 4b 2
117 Red Ball Wall
-
HS 4b 2
118 Ramp Route
-
VD 1
119 Wafer
-
VS 4b 2
  Pen Pedol
121 Pedol to the Metal 6a+ *  
122 Rib with a View 6a  
  Ogof Cadno
124 The Bender
-
VS 4c  
  Pen y Foel
126 Short and Curlies
-
E2 6a  
127 Shalako Direct
-
E2 5c *  
128 Shalako
-
E1 5b 1
129 Hondo E1 5b * 5
130 The War Party E2 5c ** 3
131 The Sackett Brand
-
E1 5b * 1
132 Revenge HVS 5a 2
133 Solitude HS  
134 Fast Draw
-
VS 4c 1
135 The Cherokee Trail E1 5b  
136 Three Men in Some Boats
-
E2 5b  
  Porth Henllys
138 Lost Corner
-
VD  
139 Slab Route
-
D  
140 Cracked Route
-
S  

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