UKC

Climbs 2
Rocktype Gneiss
Altitude 1433m a.s.l
Faces S

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The pillar of "Lo sceriffo di forno" seen from the base. © Giulio Costa

Crag features

A unique crag located on a prominent wall clearly visible from Forno Alpi Graie. This south-facing cliff stands in an exposed position above the village, directly facing the well-known Vallone di Sea (hence its name, "anti-Sea". It's a wild, traditional climbing area with only a few established routes, but plenty of potential for new lines. Although the general area is known due to the long-standing climbing activity around Forno Alpi Graie, this specific sector has not been previously documented. A cordelette has been found jammed into a crack to the right of "Lo Sceriffo di Forno", but no other traces have been found. The nearby "Roncet" sector is the better-known crag on this side of the valley, but no prior information exists for this wall. The climbing style here is predominantly physical, with a focus on crack climbing. The area is home to ibex (steinbocks) and various bird species, so climbers are encouraged to minimize disturbance. Respect the wildlife.

Approach notes

From the parking area in front of the picnic zone, enter the forest, keeping the picnic area on your left. Head toward a large crag partially hidden by the trees, then start ascending to your left, following along the base of the wall. Continue straight up through a scree-filled section among the trees, eventually veering slightly to the right to reach a large boulder with a cave below. From there, continue directly above the boulder through steep forest terrain. The trees end at a short wall; traverse a few meters to the right to locate a narrow gully with trees. Ascend through the gully (exposed) until you reach a less steep intermediate section. Follow a ledge or ramp to the right. A second, shorter gully leads to grassy slopes above the main rock band, just below the crag. A final stretch of steep, exposed grassy terrain (a few dozen meters) gives access to the base of the wall.

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Climbs at this crag

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