UKC

Climbs 29
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 2865m a.s.l
Faces W

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Chris leading P2 of Errett by Bit on Dozier Dome © meinecke

Crag features

Great destination for moderate 5.6-5.8 climbs with stellar protection and views of Tenaya lake.  Mostly slab routes with a few awesome crack/offwidth climbs.   Holdless Horror, Bull Dozier, and Errett by Bit tend to have a lot of traffic, so come prepared to do other climbs too.  

**Runouts reign here**

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Best time to climb: late spring thru late autumn 

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Approach notes

20-30 minutes via climber's trails.  

When driving east into Tuolumne, park at the large pullout (on the right) after passing Pywiack Dome.  There is a 40mph sign nearby.  Look for the (very well) used trail near the pullout-- don't walk through the wilderness.  The path quickly ends at a trail-- go left for a few hundred feet and look for a large boulder with a rocky/sandy climbers trail on the right.  Follow the trail until you reach a large slab opening with cairns galore.  Go up the slabs and look for another well used trail on the upper right, usually marked with cairns.  The base of Dozier Dome is at the end of this short trail.

Descent:  20-30 minutes.  If topping out, go west towards Tenaya lake, easy slab walking.  Keep going down the slabs, taking the easiest path until you reach the tree line.  Look for the very well used dirt trail and follow it back to the base of Dozier Dome.  

Access Advice

(1)  No dogs allowed in the national park

(2)  Beware of afternoon lightning storms-- they come in fast!  If there are any clouds, be ready to bail.

(3)  No overnight sleeping in cars or wild camping without a permit.  **They will check and kick you out!** Head to either entrance of the park to find legal pull-outs.

(4) Limited camping in the meadows.  If you don't have a site booked, there are a few first-come first-serve spots (quantity varies each day) within the meadows.  Queue at the ranger office in front of the meadows campsite area, near the road.  They open at 8am, but get in line much earlier.  

There is a 30-night camping limit within Yosemite National Park in a calendar year; however, May 1 to September 15, the camping limit in Yosemite is 14 nights, and only seven of those nights can be in Yosemite Valley or Wawona.

(5) Back-up camping options:  If you still don't have a campsite and need one, venture out the east side of the park, towards Mono Lake, and check the many sites along the road (all first-come first-serve) with a table, fire ring, and porta potty.

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