Climbs 32
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 270m a.s.l
Faces all

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Steve enjoying the intricacies of Scorpion Corner (22), Arapiles. © Simon Mentz

Approach notes

Bluff Major and Minor are the two huge blocks above Tiger Wall.  There are several ways commonly used to access them.

Flinders Lane is the large ledge system running horizontally across the upper part of Tiger Wall.  The left hand routes on Tiger Wall (Kaiser Area) finish on this ledge.  The Flinders Lane Area/Ali Baba's Area routes (from Sneaky Feelings to Imagination) start from this ledge system. 

To access Flinders Lane one can:

i) Climb up Ali's from behind Fang Buttress, via the chains on the lower section (Grade 3) and then walk round behind John's Pinnacle.  Climb through the not-obvious slot into Ali Baba's Cave, and scramble through this to come out on Finder's Lane (above Bard)

ii) Climb one of the routes on Bard Pinnacle or Tiger Wall (LHS) to finish on the ledge system.

iii) From the top of the crag find Bluff Major, and sramble down opposite Missing Link (Grade 3) to the notch between Bluff Major and the hillside.  From here you can continue down Ali's and scramble through Ali Baba's Cave, or abseil down the North (Blockbuster) side of Bluff Major (16m abseil from chains) to gain the terrace of Flinders Lane.

 

Bluff Major routes (Blockbuster to Scorpion) are accessed from Blockbuster Ledge, by doing a pitch below, whilst the routes from Kama Sutra (on the North Face) round the Missing Link Face, and onto Bulger (on the South Face) are started from the ground below Missing Link, or on down Ali's.

 

The Bluff Minor summit can be acessed via an easy scramble from Blockbuster Ledge.  If you don't fancy the leap of Bostons Climb either climb down into the gap and continue down the Keyhole, or abseil back to Blockbuster Ledges.  The routes Keyhole through to Raison d'Etrier start from Ali's (just above Denim Wall)

 

Denim Wall is on the South Side of Bluff Minor, behind John's Pinaccle.  Access to these two crags is either up Ali's from the bottom (probably easiest unless you are doing a route on Tiger Wall), from Flinder's Lane through Ali Baba's Cave, or from the top and downclimbing Ali's.

 

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Flinders Lane Area
2 Sneaky Feelings
-
20  
3 Aristocrat
-
18 * 6
4 Ivan
-
13 * 33
5 Scorpion Direct Start
-
17 * 23
6 Scorpion Corner
-
22 ** 28
7 Imagination
-
25  
  Bluff Minor
9 Bluff Minor
-
11  
10 Bostons Climb none 3
  Bluff Major
12 Blockbuster
-
11 *** 46
13 Jenny Wren
-
20 * 3
Climb name Grade
14 Quo Vadis 19 *** 48
15 Goodbye To All That
-
20 *  
16 Scorpion
-
18 ** 37
17 Anxiety Neurosis
-
26 *** 4
18 Anticipation
-
22 * 3
19 Preservative Added
-
18 * 12
20 Missing Link 17 *** 83
21 Station to Station
-
25 ** 2
22 Final Departure 27 *** 1
23 Thunder Crack
-
20 *** 61
24 Despatched
-
24 10
25 Despatched (Direct)
-
24 *** 2
26 Unrequited
-
22 * 4
Climb name Grade
27 Bulger
-
15 ** 15
  Bluff Minor (South Side)
29 The Keyhole 10 3
30 Raison d'Etrier
-
22 * 1
  Denim Wall
32 London Calling
-
26 ** 3
33 Denim
-
26  
  John's Pinnacle
35 Flappers Delight
-
4 1
36 Shoadee
-
14 * 6
37 Shalimar
-
18 * 3
38 Allez
-
24 ** 1

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