Climbs 39
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 270m a.s.l
Faces W

Alan Taylor making the first ascent of Hungry Heart [E2 5b], Oak Crag. © Tony Marr

Crag features

Better than it looks when you arrive, providing a nice days climbing entertainment. The bouldering is also first rate.

Might be an idea to check for belays as many relied on stakes.

Approach notes

See north East England Guide.

Access Advice

Due to ground nesting birds the land owners have been granted a 5 year dog ban.

There are few reliable anchors and any stakes should be treat with caution.

Bracken can be an issue in summer including obscuring a number of holes and drops around the crags.

In an amazing setting over-looking farndale with exelent soloing on the clean north butress, esecially digimon and captain birdseye. I couldn't find a belay stake however about 10-15 metres back there is a massive crater with a boulder in the bottom if nesecary.
Sam Marks - 08/Dec/10
There is a stake next to a large rock (hidden in the bilberry bushes) on the North Buttress that can be used to protect Cote Crack etc. The stake in the centre can be used for Motley Crew and Pugwash, along with a firm stance.
BruceW - 03/Aug/09
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 North Buttress 
2Blue PeterS 14
3Motley Crew
S *23
4PugwashHVS 5a 14
5PokemonHVS 5c *10
6PokemoffE1 5c 1
7North Buttress AreteE2 6b **1
8Four Seasonsf8A 2
9The Mighty Oakf7B+ **4
10Franco's TraverseE1 6a *4
11DigimonE1 5c **26
12Captain BirdseyeHVS 5b ***40
13PopeyeVD 14
14Hello Sailor
VD **17
15LegoverVD *2
HS 4a *5
17Centre RouteVD *25
18Get Yer CoatHVS 5b *18
19Cote CrackVS 4b *34
20Rigg SlabD 24
 Blakey Buttress 
22Mountain masterHS 4b *6
23Stump CrackVS 4b *13
24Heather CrackVS 5a 2
25Roger The Cabin BoyHVS 4c 1
26Wall and CrackVS 4c **11
27Blakey Traverse
VD 5
28Hungry HeartE2 5b **12
29Hungry MindE2 5b *2
30Twin CracksHVS 5a 7
 Old Sheep Pillar 
32Sheep can't climbVS 4c 1
33Cadbury FlakeVS 5a *1
34Sheep Can Boulder!VB 1
 Oak Buttress 
36Ash GrooveD 2
37Ash Tree WallHVD 1
38Oak Traverse
D 3
39Oak Wall
D 2
 Twisted Oak 
41Guilty Pleasure (Low Start)f7A+ *1
42Guilty Pleasure SSf7B+ **1
43The Pullover *f6A 4
44Low Prowf7B 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Dave Warburton