Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 270m a.s.l
Alan Taylor making the first ascent of Hungry Heart [E2 5b], Oak Crag. © Tony Marr
Better than it looks when you arrive, providing a nice days climbing entertainment. The bouldering is also first rate.
Might be an idea to check for belays as many relied on stakes.
See north East England Guide.
Due to ground nesting birds the land owners have been granted a 5 year dog ban.
There are few reliable anchors and any stakes should be treat with caution.
Bracken can be an issue in summer including obscuring a number of holes and drops around the crags.
Reason: Nesting Birds
Please Note - In 2015 there were 28 days of "NO OPEN ACCESS" in May and June. It is advised to check "Open access land" under the Natural England website or call the Open Access Contact Centre on 0300 060 2091 for up to date information, quote Grid Ref SE684961.
|In an amazing setting over-looking farndale with exelent soloing on the clean north butress, esecially digimon and captain birdseye. I couldn't find a belay stake however about 10-15 metres back there is a massive crater with a boulder in the bottom if nesecary.|
Sam Marks - 08/Dec/10
|There is a stake next to a large rock (hidden in the bilberry bushes) on the North Buttress that can be used to protect Cote Crack etc. The stake in the centre can be used for Motley Crew and Pugwash, along with a firm stance.|
BruceW - 03/Aug/09
|5||Pokemon||HVS 5c *||10|
|7||North Buttress Arete||E2 6b **||4|
|9||The Mighty Oak||f7B+ **||4|
|10||Franco's Traverse||E1 6a *||4|
|11||Digimon||E1 5c **||28|
|12||Captain Birdseye||HVS 5b ***||40|
|HS 4a *||6|
|17||Centre Route||VD *||28|
|18||Get Yer Coat||HVS 5b *||20|
|19||Cote Crack||VS 4b *||36|
|22||Mountain master||HS 4b *||6|
|23||Stump Crack||VS 4b *||14|
|24||Heather Crack||VS 5a||2|
|25||Roger The Cabin Boy||HVS 4c||1|
|26||Wall and Crack||VS 4c **||12|
|28||Hungry Heart||E2 5b **||9|
|29||Hungry Mind||E2 5b *||2|
|30||Twin Cracks||HVS 5a||6|
|Old Sheep Pillar|
|32||Sheep can't climb||VS 4c||2|
|33||Cadbury Flake||VS 5a *||2|
|34||Sheep Can Boulder!||VB 4c||2|
|37||Ash Tree Wall||HVD||1|
|41||Guilty Pleasure (Low Start)||f7A+ *||1|
|42||Guilty Pleasure SS||f7B+ **||2|
|43||The Pullover *||f6A||5|
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