Climbs 39
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 270m a.s.l
Faces W

Alan Taylor making the first ascent of Hungry Heart [E2 5b], Oak Crag. © Tony Marr

Crag features

Better than it looks when you arrive, providing a nice days climbing entertainment. The bouldering is also first rate.

Might be an idea to check for belays as many relied on stakes.

Approach notes

See north East England Guide.

Access Advice

Due to ground nesting birds the land owners have been granted a 5 year dog ban.

There are few reliable anchors and any stakes should be treat with caution.

Bracken can be an issue in summer including obscuring a number of holes and drops around the crags.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Please Note - In 2015 there were 28 days of "NO OPEN ACCESS" in May and June. It is advised to check  "Open access land" under the Natural England website or call the Open Access Contact Centre on 0300 060 2091 for up to date information, quote Grid Ref SE684961.

In an amazing setting over-looking farndale with exelent soloing on the clean north butress, esecially digimon and captain birdseye. I couldn't find a belay stake however about 10-15 metres back there is a massive crater with a boulder in the bottom if nesecary.
Sam Marks - 08/Dec/10
There is a stake next to a large rock (hidden in the bilberry bushes) on the North Buttress that can be used to protect Cote Crack etc. The stake in the centre can be used for Motley Crew and Pugwash, along with a firm stance.
BruceW - 03/Aug/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  North Buttress
2 Blue Peter S 14
3 Motley Crew
-
S * 23
4 Pugwash HVS 5a 14
5 Pokemon HVS 5c * 10
6 Pokemoff E1 5c 1
7 North Buttress Arete E2 6b ** 4
8 Four Seasons f8A 2
9 The Mighty Oak f7B+ ** 4
10 Franco's Traverse E1 6a * 4
11 Digimon E1 5c ** 29
12 Captain Birdseye HVS 5b *** 40
13 Popeye VD 15
14 Hello Sailor
-
VD ** 18
15 Legover VD * 3
16 Playtex
-
HS 4a * 6
17 Centre Route VD * 27
18 Get Yer Coat HVS 5b * 20
19 Cote Crack VS 4b * 35
20 Rigg Slab D 26
  Blakey Buttress
22 Mountain master HS 4b * 6
23 Stump Crack VS 4b * 14
24 Heather Crack VS 5a 2
25 Roger The Cabin Boy HVS 4c 1
26 Wall and Crack VS 4c ** 12
27 Blakey Traverse
-
VD 5
28 Hungry Heart E2 5b ** 9
29 Hungry Mind E2 5b * 2
30 Twin Cracks HVS 5a 6
  Old Sheep Pillar
32 Sheep can't climb VS 4c 2
33 Cadbury Flake VS 5a * 2
34 Sheep Can Boulder! VB 4c 2
  Oak Buttress
36 Ash Groove D 2
37 Ash Tree Wall HVD 1
38 Oak Traverse
-
D 3
39 Oak Wall
-
D 2
  Twisted Oak
41 Guilty Pleasure (Low Start) f7A+ * 1
42 Guilty Pleasure SS f7B+ ** 1
43 The Pullover * f6A 4
44 Low Prow f7B 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Dave Warburton