Climbs 28
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 10m a.s.l

West coast of Hoy seen across the Pentland Firth from near Dunnet Head © Rog Wilko

Crag features

These spectacular sandstone cliffs just south of the Old Man of Hoy are breached by some amazingly steep and extreme 1-4 pitch routes.

Rock is generally excellent and dry, but can take a few days to dry out after heavy weather.

Must Dos :

Muklehead Wall E5

Two Little Boys E6

Rosamunds Birthday E4

Approach notes


Possible conflict with nesting birds

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Gully 1 
2Ben Doone
HVS 5a *3
3Fulmar Cavity
VS 4b *2
E1 5b *8
E2 5b **6
6Banana Transfer TheoryE1 5b ***8
E2 5b * 
HVS 4c *5
 Gully 3 
E1 5b  
11Rosmund's Birthday
E4 6a  
12Action Replay
E3 5c ** 
 Between Gullies 3 and 4 
14The Eternal Optimist
E3 5c * 
15Back Bone
E4 6a ** 
 Gully 4 
17A Piss in the Ocean
HS 4b  
18Avoiding the Issue
E1 5b  
19Fillet of Soul
E1 5b *1
20Scare of the CenturyXS 5a  
 Waterfall Wall 
22The Last Yole
E5 6a ** 
23Pocket Full of Fulmar Shite
E1 5b  
24The Rocks and the Water
E1 5b **3
 Mucklehouse Wall 
26Roaring Forties
E3 5c **20
27Mucklehouse Wall
E5 6a **8
28Two Litle Boys
E6 6b ***1
29Rats Stole my ToothbrushE5 6a ** 
30Many a Mickle Makes a MuckleE6 6b ** 
31The Wise Hoy HawkE5 6a ***1
 Orange Wall 
33Orange Wall
E4 6a ** 
E4 6a * 
35Puffins For LunchE1 5c 1

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