Climbs 28
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 10m a.s.l

West coast of Hoy seen across the Pentland Firth from near Dunnet Head © Rog Wilko

Crag features

These spectacular sandstone cliffs just south of the Old Man of Hoy are breached by some amazingly steep and extreme 1-4 pitch routes.

Rock is generally excellent and dry, but can take a few days to dry out after heavy weather.

Must Dos :

Muklehead Wall E5

Two Little Boys E6

Rosamunds Birthday E4

Approach notes

Tidal

Possible conflict with nesting birds

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Gully 1
2 Ben Doone
-
HVS 5a * 4
3 Fulmar Cavity
-
VS 4b * 2
4 Craa'nest
-
E1 5b * 8
5 Mater
-
E2 5b ** 4
6 Banana Transfer Theory E1 5b *** 11
7 Paneer
-
E2 5b *  
8 Paternoster
-
HVS 4c * 4
  Gully 3
10 Roarer
-
E1 5b  
11 Rosmund's Birthday
-
E4 6a  
12 Action Replay
-
E3 5c **  
  Between Gullies 3 and 4
14 The Eternal Optimist
-
E3 5c *  
15 Back Bone
-
E4 6a **  
  Gully 4
17 A Piss in the Ocean
-
HS 4b  
18 Avoiding the Issue
-
E1 5b  
19 Fillet of Soul
-
E1 5b * 1
20 Scare of the Century XS 5a  
  Waterfall Wall
22 The Last Yole
-
E5 6a **  
23 Pocket Full of Fulmar Shite
-
E1 5b 1
24 The Rocks and the Water
-
E1 5b ** 5
  Mucklehouse Wall
26 Roaring Forties
-
E3 5c ** 24
27 Mucklehouse Wall
-
E5 6a ** 10
28 Two Litle Boys
-
E6 6b *** 1
29 Rats Stole my Toothbrush E5 6a **  
30 Many a Mickle Makes a Muckle E6 6b **  
31 The Wise Hoy Hawk E5 6a *** 1
  Orange Wall
33 Orange Wall
-
E4 6a **  
34 Spoots
-
E4 6a *  
35 Puffins For Lunch E1 5c 1

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