Climbs 34
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 230m a.s.l
Faces S

Rosanna enjoying some fine moves © Mark Eddy

Crag features

Lower Scout Crag - a small rather grubby crag, overused by groups so very shiny.

Middle Scout Crag - another small crag, but very steep. E-grades only.

Upper Scout Crag - the largest and arguably the best crag of the three with a number of fair to good routes in the easier grades, mostly with a couple of pitches each.

Although the easier routes have long been recommended to novices, it is worth pointing out that protection on many of the routes is sparse or hard to find or both. A good rack of cams will ease the situation especially with the imaginative use of gas bubble pockets on the upper crag.

Approach notes

There seem to be no access problems, though the farmer is anxious about his lambs in springtime and there may be a group use ban on Lower Scout in the lambing season(mid March to end of April).

Park in one of the car parks in the vicinity of New Dungeon Gill Hotel and walk east along the road for 200m beyond the beck whence a stile leads into a field containing a small barn. The crags lie 5 - 10 minutes up the hillside from here. Parking on the road below the crag may attract the attention of the boys in blue.

Guidebooks

Langdale (2013)
Out of print:
Langdale (1999)
Langdale (1989)
The last 4 routes on Middle Scout are beyond poor. what are they even doing in the guidebook. Consign them to the bin!
Ian Jones - 10/Oct/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Boulder near Road.
2 The crack V0 22
  Lower Scout Crag
4 Basher's Bulge
-
E2 5b 37
5 Cub's Arete
-
S * 215
6 Cub's Groove VD * 617
7 Cub's Crack
-
HS 4b * 565
8 Cub's Wall
-
VD * 389
9 The New Partnership
-
E1 5b 70
10 Oh Heck Direct
-
MVS 4b 125
11 The Slab
-
MVS 4b * 317
12 Short man's Route E3 5c * 9
13 Confidence Trick
-
E1 5b 20
  Middle Scout Crag
15 Skinhead
-
E4 6b 1
16 Abba
-
E3 6a 1
17 Bob Dylan
-
E6 6b * 1
18 The Beatles
-
E6 6a * 20
19 Street Legal E7 6b * 1
20 Elvis E4 6a * 37
21 Blondie
-
E3 6a 3
22 Tenderfoot
-
E3 6a 2
23 Elton John
-
E4 6b 1
24 Madonna
-
E1 5b 2
  Upper Scout Crag
26 The Glaciated Rib D ** 56
27 Route 2
-
VD ** 686
28 Route 2 variation finish
-
VD 4
29 Route 1.5
-
VD * 126
30 Route 1.75 D ** 30
31 The Ramsbottom Variation VD ** 31
32 Route 1
-
VD *** 1069
33 Zero Route
-
VD * 92
34 Rambler's Hangover
-
VD * 82
35 Scout's Belt VD 18
  Upper Scout Crag East
37 Salmon Leap
-
VS 4c ** 27
38 Thing Fish HVS 5a ** 1
39 Sid the Sardine HVS 5a ** 1

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