Climbs 37
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 230m a.s.l
Faces S

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The Slab (VS) at Lower Scout Crag (from the Lake District Climbs Rockfax). © Alan James

Crag features

Lower Scout Crag - a small rather grubby crag, overused by groups so very shiny.
Middle Scout Crag - another small crag, but very steep. E-grades only.
Upper Scout Crag - the largest and arguably the best crag of the three with a number of fair to good routes in the easier grades, mostly with a couple of pitches each.

Although the easier routes have long been recommended to novices, it is worth pointing out that protection on many of the routes is sparse or hard to find or both. A good rack of cams will ease the situation especially with the imaginative use of gas bubble pockets on the upper crag.

Approach notes

There seem to be no access problems, though the farmer is anxious about his lambs in springtime and there may be a group use ban on Lower Scout in the lambing season(mid March to end of April).
Park in one of the car parks in the vicinity of New Dungeon Gill Hotel and walk east along the road for 200m beyond the beck whence a stile leads into a field containing a small barn. The crags lie 5 - 10 minutes up the hillside from here. Parking on the road below the crag may attract the attention of the boys in blue.

Guidebooks

Out of print:
Langdale (1999)
Langdale (1989)
The last 4 routes on Middle Scout are beyond poor. what are they even doing in the guidebook. Consign them to the bin!
Ian Jones - 10/Oct/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Boulder near Road.
2 The crack V0 28
  Lower Scout Crag
4 Basher's Bulge
-
E2 5b 39
5 Cub's Arete HS 4a * 259
6 Cub's Groove VD * 748
7 Cub's Crack HS 4b ** 662
8 Cub's Wall VD * 454
9 The New Partnership E1 5b * 87
10 Oh Heck Direct VS 4b * 160
11 The Slab VS 4b * 380
12 Short man's Route E3 5c * 11
13 Confidence Trick
-
E1 5b 24
Climb name Grade
  Middle Scout Crag
15 Skinhead
-
E4 6b 1
16 Abba
-
E3 6a 1
17 Bob Dylan
-
E6 6b * 1
18 The Beatles E6 6b ** 24
19 Street Legal E7 6b * 2
20 Elvis E5 6a ** 53
21 Blondie
-
E3 6a 5
22 Tenderfoot
-
E3 6a 2
23 Elton John
-
E4 6b 1
24 Madonna
-
E1 5b 2
  Upper Scout Crag
26 The Glaciated Rib D ** 89
27 Route 2 VD ** 846
Climb name Grade
28 Route 2 variation finish
-
VD 8
29 Route 1.5
-
VD * 152
30 Route 1.75 D ** 61
31 The Ramsbottom Variation VD ** 56
32 Route 1 VD *** 1371
33 Zero Route VD * 120
34 Rambler's Hangover
-
VD * 95
35 Scout's Belt VD 19
36 Essential Vagrancy * HVS 5a * 1
  Upper Scout Crag East
38 Salmon Leap
-
VS 4c ** 31
39 Thing Fish HVS 5a ** 2
40 Sid the Sardine HVS 5a ** 2
41 Girl Scout * VD 1
42 Small Fry * MVS 4b 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Francis Charlesworth