UKC

Climbs 39
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 337m a.s.l

Kelly leading pitch 2 of Cervo Di Piazza 6a © cider nut

Crag features

Fairly solid, sharp, grey limestone for the most part. Tall crag (~200m in places) with a mix of single and multipitch climbs. Mostly bolted, Italian style, but also has some trad routes. Harder routes seem to be bolted well throughout, some of the easier routes are protected mainly by tatt threads and a fear of falling.

Approach notes

Park at the public carpark, just after the bridge and follow the painted flags on rocks. The scramble up to the track is easy. Follow the track for 5-10 minutes until you see an obvious path through the bushes on the right. This should bring you out just next to Paradiso.

A great destination. The bridge has been repaired so you can drive to the base of the pass. Sound of Silence is probably one of the more shaded routes on the north side, only starting to catch sun about 1pm in late April. It also appears to be by far the busiest route. The Pietra di Luna guidebook topo is hopeless; use the photo topo in Arrampicare a Cala Gonone, or continue past the large gully halfway along the north wall and then turn off the path about 100m further along. A cairn (and scratched route names) marks the start... and if you see people on the wall they are probably on this route!
jonny taylor - 02/May/10
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  North Face
  South Face
3 Taglienti spiriti
-
4c  
4 Serra Orrios 6a+  
5 Cortes apertas 6b  
6 Seadas 6b  
7 Seven Cams 6a+  
8 Sa sedda e sos carros
-
5b  
9 Plan B 6a+  
10 Orizzonte perduto none ?  
11 Patty * 6c+ 1
12 Venuto al mondo 6b+  
13 Coup d'epèe 6b  
14 Trans Surtana Express
-
6c 4
Climb name Grade
15 Wish You Were Here
-
6a+ 1
16 Hot Rats
-
6a+  
17 Ciocca la gnocca
-
6a+  
18 Mario il negro
-
5a 2
19 Bitto E Le Pigne
-
6b+ *** 2
20 Il pirata pappanera 5c 4
21 Tun cià sete
-
6c *** 1
22 Il paese delle meraviglie 5c 2
23 Semper Onestu * 6a+ 1
24 Pilier della tranquillità M 4b 2
25 Cervo di Piazza 6a *** 26
26 Take Five 6a+  
27 The Sound of Silence
-
5c *** 56
28 Paradiso 6a *** 11
Climb name Grade
29 Via Tranquilla
-
6a *** 1
30 Il vento dell'estate 5c ** 1
31 Afa bolente HVS 5b 1
32 Naufraghi nella notte * 6a+ 1
33 Nascondiglio efficiente... *
-
5c 1
34 via del tetto a sette
-
VS 1
35 Paradiso perduto * IV ** 1
36 Lunghi coltelli * VI+ 1
37 Lucertole dalla coda azzurra * V *** 1
38 Le radici del cielo
-
5b  
39 Biancaneve
-
4c  
40 Placche lazzi e frizzi
-
4c  
41 Triste pillier dei romantici
-
4a  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Phil