Climbing banned in France

Due to the ongoing spread of Coronavirus, France has banned all climbing. Continuing to do so not only puts people at risk, but can also put more strain on emergency workers. Please do not climb here.

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Climbs 223
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 650m a.s.l
Faces S

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Drew mid way up À vue pour Corinne © Phil Belcher

Crag features

This is a major crag in SW France, well worth a visit especially by climbers in the middle grades. There are lots of excellent climbs in grades 5 and 6, including several multi-pitch routes (up to 7 pitches) and good quality harder climbing (F7a to F8c). Calames offers an impressive variety of climbing with steep routes on the first sectors and slabs further on.

The crag is south facing and can get hot in summer especially between late May and August. The furthest sectors (Le Col, Presse Puree) and a handful of routes on 'Les Grottes' are in the shade for much of the morning. Sector 'Le Levant' is shady from 1500hrs onwards and 'Les Grottes' from about 1700. The Autumn brings the most reliable conditions but if the weather is right, the crag is climbable all year. The closest accommodation is an english run guesthouse a short walk from the crag (www.basecalames.com), there are plenty of other options for accommodation and climbing in the area.

Free PFD Topo's here - http://cafma.free.fr/calames/fr_cal.htm

stated grades are either from the new guide or the online topo.

Approach notes

From the roundabout at the end of the N24 at Tarascon-sur-Ariege take the D614 towards Saurat/Col de Port. After 5 minutes enter the village of Bedeilhac and park in the large carpark on the left. Walk up through the village following the footpath marked with red and yellow stripes arriving at the 1st sector in around 10 minutes.

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Guidebooks

France : Ariege

The Ariège region of Southern France is the compact area where the Ariège River cuts through the Pyrenées on its way from Andorra to the coast. There is a lot of high quality climbing in the area with a superb variety of rock types to go at; from the soaring granite slabs of the Dent d’Orlu, to the steep limestone bulges of Génat. Limestone, granite and gneiss are on offer and routes vary in size from boulder problems to long epics of over 20 pitches. The area has a long and intriguing history and offers plenty to do apart from the climbing, including mountain walking, caving, river rafting, skiing and checking out the many ancient castles. Factor in the year-round climbing, easy access from northern Europe and plenty of high quality accommodation in the area and it is easy to see that the Ariège region has lots to offer. This guidebook covers all the major climbs on the crags covered. It details sport routes and longer mountain trad. There are also sections on mountain walks and other activities.
More info
Sector "Le Papy" must be one of the best venues for grade 5 routes in France. We almost had the crag to ourselves (mid-March). The rock is not polished, is quite steep in parts and very well endowed with holds. All the routes we did were very fine to outstanding. In particular Coralie is that rare item - a truly memorable sport route! Some of the alleged 40m routes (left end) are in fact fine on a 70m rope. Not sure about the two alleged 45m pitches - didn't risk it... The sunny aspect made it possible to climb comfortably in the sunshine although there was quite a lot of snow on the ground (and falling down the crag on to us), and the views of Pic du Trois Seigneurs covered in snow were stunning. An unmissable venue for climbers of modest ambitions.
Rog Wilko - 17/Mar/10
Really nice easy limestone routes in this sector. Got very hot in the mid afternoon sun though (September) so get there early for pleasant climbing!
bigbobbyking - 15/Sep/09
This is a major crag in SW France, well worth a visit especially by climbers in the middle grades who are often poorly catered for at better known crags. There are numerous excellent climbs in grades 5 and 6, including several multi-pitch routes (some of which require trad gear) and good quality harder climbing (F7a to F8a) in the Secteur des Grottes. The crag can get very hot in summer especially between late May and August, and the weather can be wet in spring. The best time for a visit would be September to November but if the weather is right, the crag is climbable all year - it is a suntrap and it's possible to climb in tee-shirt and shorts in December. It would be possible to combine climbing here with skiing in the upper part of the Ariege Valley or even Andorra.
AlisonC - 05/Dec/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Le Col
2 Samdi 6b * 12
3 Samdynamite 6c * 2
4 Gadou 6c ** 4
5 Lichen 6a+ ** 15
6 Quel est ton nom ? 6b * 5
7 Verdon du pauvre 6c *** 12
8 Plus blanc que blème 6c+ ** 1
9 La force soit avec vous 7a+ ** 4
10 Visqueuse insipide 7b+ **  
11 Le goujon de plus 5a * 26
12 C'est si louette 4c * 13
13 Six coq six nelles 7a *** 6
14 Six coq six nelles (extension) 7a *** 2
15 Gris éléphant 7c *** 1
16 Première pour mamie 4c ** 16
17 Tramp 5a ** 17
18 Les 2 b 5a ** 24
19 Il a neigé sur yesterday 5c ** 21
20 L'enfer des nains 7a *** 6
21 La framcaise 6b ** 6
22 L's prix d'équipe 6b+ ** 4
23 L's prix d'équilibre 6b * 6
24 Des points communs 5c ** 10
  Presse Puree-Sangria
26 Interdit aux vélos 5c ** 25
27 Le piège 6c * 9
28 Dommage 6b+ ** 8
29 Tornado 6c ** 6
30 Margote 5a * 24
31 Zébulon 5c ** 30
32 À la colle 6b+ *** 18
33 Lassant, non? 7a **  
34 Presse purée 6c ** 6
35 Le coup de la panne 6c ** 3
36 Kekcecsa 6a ** 32
37 La fée du logis 6b ** 14
38 L'herbe rouge 6a+ *** 41
39 Poéter plus haut que son luth 5a * 21
40 Colin 5c ** 30
41 Macarel 6c+ * 3
42 Dudule 6c ** 10
43 L'écume des jours 6a+ * 9
44 Les neiges du Kilimandjaro 5c *** 57
45 Chloé 6b ** 16
46 La roujas 1 5c * 22
47 Sangria-patience 6b 1
48 Pâques aux tisons 5c ** 13
49 Tentation 6a+ * 15
50 Le tichodrome 6a+ ** 9
  Falaise de Levant
52 Sketchup 6a+ ** 3
53 Calypso 6a 3
54 Nulle part ailleurs 5c 4
55 String fluo 5c 3
56 L'air du temps 5c  
57 Art du rock 7a *** 2
58 Ragtime 7b+ **  
59 London Blues 7b  
60 Climb 7b+  
61 Noblesse oblige 7b  
62 Malina 7c  
63 Sortidas 8a  
  La Grande Dalle
65 La dalette 5a * 3
66 L'envie folle
-
5a 7
67 Pendule pour l'enfer 5a ** 13
68 Tche-Tche en lunule 5a * 30
69 La voie de Philippe 6a+ ** 29
70 Trop serieux s'abstenir 5c ** 29
71 Bathroom 6a ** 40
72 Les 2 Blondes 5b 4
73 Messie c'est bleussipo 5c * 22
74 Hacuna matata 5c ** 21
75 Le ratichon blagueur 6a+ ** 21
76 Chute libre 7a ** 9
77 Engagez-vous y disez 6b+ ** 12
78 Voleur de corde 6a ** 34
79 La roujas 2 6a+ *** 19
Climb name Grade
80 La roujas 3 6a ** 7
81 Video gag 5c ** 21
82 Gag A 5c * 6
83 Les racines du ciel 7a ** 1
84 Maya 7a **  
85 Petite fleur 7c **  
86 Salut les boulots 7a+ **  
87 La Ligne Rouge 6a 1
  Le Fronton
89 Gag à gogo 4a 6
90 Gag à part 5a 6
91 Bruce Lee 5a 6
92 La première 7a ** 2
93 Moitié-moitié 7a ** 7
94 À la coule 6b * 11
95 Faut pas tricher 6a * 10
96 As... 4c 1
97 ...Ups 6c *** 2
98 Escalade option fac
-
6b+ 1
  Le Papy
100 Remouille-moi la compresse 5a *** 57
101 Troiszocloques 5a *** 39
102 Le belge sans moule 5a ** 17
103 Roxette 5a ** 33
104 Les sinsols 5c ** 63
105 Blues pour un chat noir 5c ** 78
106 Les instantfataux 5c *** 105
107 Theiere du jardin 5a *** 120
108 Sette et uitte 5a ** 89
109 Papylolo 5a *** 111
110 Coralie 5c *** 69
111 Julie Anissa 5c ** 38
112 Vercoquins 5c * 16
113 Le Nauc 6a ** 66
114 Moustique 5c ** 28
115 Les herbes ameres 6a ** 21
116 Money 5c ** 26
117 La Zonzonette 6a+ ** 4
118 Certaines l'aiment chauve 6c ** 2
119 Le Cri Du Morpion 6c ** 4
  Initiation
121 Mamy confiture 4a ** 27
122 Gazouillis 4c ** 35
123 Mouflette 4c ** 37
124 La Risette 4a *** 46
125 Choupette 4a ** 42
126 Les Papouilles 5a ** 37
127 Pomponettes 5a ** 20
  Pilier des Cathares
129 Prelude 5c * 44
130 la voie des peres tranquilles 5c ** 31
131 le p'tit nicolas 5c * 10
132 Riobi 5c ** 15
133 Rio 6a ** 14
134 Pilier des Cathares 6a+ *** 43
135 Mandarine Mecanique 5c ** 8
136 La Zipette 6b ** 5
137 Avis à la copulation 6b ** 5
138 L'ami Zantrop 6a+ ** 3
139 Les Pets de Dame aux Celebs 6a+ * 3
140 Arabesque 6c *** 11
141 Psychose 7a+ **  
142 Pour Lubeline 5c *** 44
143 Mixte 6a ** 3
144 La main d'Ancelin 6a ** 2
145 Pour Jorane 5c  
146 Ta peur bloc 5c * 1
147 La faim des spits E1  
  La Vire aux Chevres
149 Les Chats d'Ocs 6a+ ** 12
150 Bachibouzouk 6a+ * 10
151 Bastos 7b * 4
152 Quad neuf docteur 7a ** 7
153 Les Moulures 7a+ ** 6
154 Aéro Concept 6b ** 7
155 La Partie Cul 6c+ ** 6
156 Quo Non Ascendet? 7a+ * 2
157 La Bidounette 6b+ ** 5
158 Notre Jeu 6b+ ** 5
Climb name Grade
159 La Turlute gratos 6b+ * 2
160 Foc del Cel 6b+ ** 2
161 Le Génocide des Liliputes 6b * 2
162 Classique d'antan 6b+ ** 1
163 I cal tourna 7a+ *  
164 La retour de Tataille 7a+ *** 3
165 La surprise de Tataille 7b *** 1
166 L'ange exterminateur 8a ***  
167 Louanges et reproches 8b ***  
168 Un cas pour deux 8a+ ***  
169 Les 4G * 6a+ 2
  Les Murettes
171 Sae sur canapés 6c+ ** 1
172 Taz 6b *  
173 Lulu revient 6b+ 2
174 Parfum d'automne 6b+ ** 12
175 Sol en si 6a * 38
176 La Soucarrane 6a+ ** 46
177 Barbarella 6b+ * 19
178 Baker Street 6b+ ** 34
179 La der des der 6b+ * 11
180 Brothers in Arms 6c ** 11
181 On n'est pas des anges 6c ** 9
182 Modestie Blues 6c ** 11
183 Les Paparasites 6b ** 39
184 Après travail pour Corinne 7b ** 6
185 À vue pour Corinne 7a *** 13
186 Poisson d'Avril 7a+ ** 9
187 Basse Critique 7b ** 4
188 Pendez-vous haut et court 7a ** 6
189 Carambar 6c ** 5
190 Poussière de grimpe 7a * 4
191 Johnnie Walker 8a *** 3
192 Belphegor 8a+ *  
  Les Grottes
194 Cayenne Project **  
195 Overdose de gauche 8c **  
196 Overdose 8b+ **  
197 Overdose droite 8b+ **  
198 La grande illusion 8a ***  
199 La Petit illusion 7c *** 2
200 La désillusion 8a ***  
201 Meme les nains ont commencé petit 8a+ **  
202 Territoires d'ombres 7b+ ** 4
203 Histoire d'os 7a * 5
204 Nids de couleuvres 8b *  
205 Crache ton venin 7c+ * 1
206 Bamboula 7c ** 4
207 Tout le zinzin 7a * 7
208 Matosoidienne 6c+ * 10
209 Variante a JR 6c *** 22
210 Saucisse Grillee 6c+ ** 11
211 Zelopitheque 7a ** 26
212 Chateau Malvet 89 7a+ ** 7
213 La Bouillie Bordelaise 7a+ ** 5
214 Rahan 7b+ *** 11
215 Mosaique 7c ** 5
216 Illusion d'un fou 8a ** 1
217 Puzzle 8a ** 1
218 Homo Plombus 7b *** 19
219 Le Fils De Crao 7a+ ** 6
220 Lucie 6c+ *** 25
221 Neanderdalle 6b ** 24
222 L'autre salaud qui pete 6b+ * 12
223 Cro-magnon 6c * 6
224 Les pierres a feu 6a+ ** 37
  Abracadaplat
226 Pattes a plat 5a 29
227 Qui peut le peu peut le plus 6a 23
228 La Guerre Du Peu 6a 8
229 Les carres dans l'arbre 6a+ 4
230 Cinq plus des brouettes 6b 9
231 D'apparence trompeuse 6a 11
232 La comtoise 6a+ 11
233 Tant qu'il y aura des 5 sup 6a+ 11
234 Abracadaplat 6c 2
235 Eliminate low-level traverse f6C 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer JonS