Climbs 83
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 700m a.s.l
Faces SE

Dave Birkett on 'Impact Day' E8/9 6c, Pavey Ark. © Alastair Lee - Posingproductions.com

Crag features

Long routes, good selection at all grades. Sound and amazingly rough rock in places. Best routes - Cruel Sister(E3), Arcturus(E1), Capella(E1), Bracken Clock(E2), Rake End Wall(VS), Rake End Chimney(D), Golden Slipper(HVS), Mother Courage(E4), Impact Day(E8), Sixpence(E6), Astra(E2), Fallen Angel(E4).

Approach notes

Park in large car parks at the New Dungeon Ghyll Hotel.About one hour uphill walk.

Guidebooks

What is shelter from the storm? it certainly isn't a classic route.
Alan Phizacklea - 06/Nov/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Pavey Ark summit
-
summit 577
2 Jack's Rake 1 *** 1017
  Below Jack's Rake
4 Deception
-
S 26
5 Obscured by Clouds
-
E4 6a 2
6 The Rainmaker
-
E1 5b 18
7 Maggie's Farm
-
E3 5c 2
8 Cruel Sister E3 5c *** 173
9 Astral By-Way E3 5b * 1
10 Big Brother
-
E3 5c ** 11
11 Arcturus E1 5b *** 360
12 Capella E1 5b *** 432
13 Alphekka E2 5c ** 5
14 Wailing Wall
-
VS 4c 5
15 Alph
-
VS 4c * 9
16 Crescent Slabs S ** 317
17 Venus E1 5b ** 11
18 Mars E3 5c ** 3
19 Black Slab
-
VS 5a 32
20 Crescent Climb
-
M * 353
21 Crescent Direct
-
VS 4c * 5
22 Crescent Super Direct
-
E3 5c  
  Stoney Buttress
24 The Ragman's Trumpet
-
E2 5c * 5
25 Great Gully
-
D * 23
26 The Hobbit
-
E2 5b 3
27 Sinistral
-
E1 5a 1
28 Little Gully
-
M * 9
  Above Jack's Rake
30 Stoat's Crack
-
HS ** 191
31 Stickle Grooves
-
HVS 5a * 7
32 The Bracken-Clock E2 5c ** 199
33 Rock Around the Clock
-
E3 6a 4
34 By-Pass Route
-
HVS 5a 10
35 Rake End Wall VS 4c *** 429
36 The Rib Pitch HVS 5a * 114
37 death star E5 5c 2
38 Rake End Chimney D ** 76
39 The Rib E1 5c 10
40 Cook's Tour
-
VD * 141
41 Rectangular Slab
-
VS 4c * 44
42 Rectangular Rib
-
HVS 5a * 19
43 Coati VS 4b ** 88
44 Aardvark
-
E1 5c ** 117
45 Gwynne's Chimney
-
D * 247
46 Stalag
-
VS 4c * 5
47 Troll's Corner
-
HVS 5a ** 12
48 Poker Face E1 5b ** 186
49 Golden Slipper HVS 5a *** 697
50 Roundabout Direct
-
HVS 5a * 7
  East Buttress
52 Brain Damage
-
E3 5c * 13
53 Coma
-
E4 6a 1
54 Mother Courage
-
E4 6a *** 23
55 Assault and Matrimony
-
E4 6a 1
56 Red Groove
-
E1 5b * 28
57 Kudos
-
E2 5c * 3
58 Risus
-
E2 5c * 7
59 Hobson's Choice
-
VS 4b * 15
60 Impact Day E8 6c ***  
61 Sixpence
-
E6 6b *** 11
62 Eclipse
-
E4 6a ** 19
63 Astra E2 5c *** 282
64 Supernova
-
E5 6a *  
65 Fallen Angel
-
E4 6a *** 58
66 Angel Heart
-
E7 6a 3
67 Heartsong
-
E4 6b * 2
68 Cascade
-
HVS 5a * 82
69 Cascade Direct
-
E3 5c ** 44
70 Aquarius
-
HVS 5a *** 8
71 Bennison's Chimney VD †  
72 Startrek
-
E3 5c ** 3
73 Easy Gully 1 ** 42
74 Pavey Far East
-
2 * 14
  North Buttress
76 Blood on the Tracks
-
E3 5c ** 4
  Winter Routes
78 Jack's Rake (Winter)
-
I 104
79 Stoats Crack VI 6 * 2
80 Cook's Tour IV 7
81 Deception IV 5 * 3
82 Stony Buttress III  
83 Great Gully III * 6
84 Middling Buttress III * 9
85 Little Gully Right Branch II 5
86 Little Gully Left Branch
-
II 5
87 Great Gully Direct III 1
88 Little Gully Right Left Branch III ** 22
89 Gibsons chimney III 2

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