Climbs 87
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 700m a.s.l
Faces all

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Dave Birkett on 'Impact Day' E8/9 6c, Pavey Ark. © Alastair Lee - Posingproductions.com

Crag features

Long routes, good selection at all grades. Sound and amazingly rough rock in places. 

Approach notes

Park in large carparks at the New Dungeon Ghyll Hotel.

Approach time: 1 hour

Guidebooks

What is shelter from the storm? it certainly isn't a classic route.
Alan Phizacklea - 06/Nov/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Pavey Ark summit
-
summit 778
2 Jack's Rake 1 *** 1364
3 Access Pitches VS 4b  
  South Face - Lower
5 Deception
-
S 25
6 Obscured by Clouds
-
E4 6a 2
7 The Rainmaker
-
E1 5b 20
8 Maggie's Farm
-
E3 5c 2
9 Cruel Sister E3 5c *** 201
10 Astral By-Way E3 5b * 1
11 Big Brother
-
E3 5c ** 12
12 Arcturus E1 5b *** 373
13 Capella E1 5b *** 497
14 Alphekka E2 5c ** 6
15 Wailing Wall
-
VS 4c 7
16 Alph
-
VS 4c * 9
17 Crescent Slabs S 4a ** 375
18 Venus E1 5b ** 17
19 Mars E3 5c ** 3
20 Black Slab
-
VS 5a 39
21 Crescent Climb M ** 430
22 Crescent Direct
-
VS 4c * 8
23 Crescent Super Direct
-
E3 5c  
  Stoney Buttress
25 The Ragman's Trumpet
-
E2 5c * 6
26 Great Gully
-
D * 30
27 The Hobbit
-
E2 5b 4
28 Sinistral
-
E1 5a 1
29 Little Gully
-
M * 9
  South Face - Upper
31 Stoat's Crack HS ** 209
Climb name Grade
32 Stickle Grooves
-
HVS 5a * 7
33 The Bracken-Clock E2 5c *** 229
34 Rock Around the Clock
-
E3 6a 4
35 By-Pass Route
-
HVS 5a 10
36 Rake End Wall VS 4c *** 469
37 The Rib Pitch HVS 5a * 149
38 Death Star E5 5c 2
39 Rake End Chimney D ** 77
40 The Rib E1 5c 10
41 Cook's Tour VD * 149
42 Rectangular Slab
-
VS 4c * 50
43 Rectangular Rib
-
HVS 5a * 20
44 Coati VS 4b ** 148
45 Aardvark E1 5c *** 125
46 Gwynne's Chimney
-
D * 300
47 Stalag
-
VS 4c * 9
48 Troll's Corner
-
HVS 5a ** 17
49 Poker Face E1 5b *** 208
50 Golden Slipper HVS 5a *** 755
51 Roundabout Direct
-
HVS 5a * 9
  East Gully Wall
53 Brain Damage
-
E3 5c * 12
54 Coma
-
E4 6a 1
55 Mother Courage E4 6a *** 32
56 Assault and Matrimony
-
E4 6a 1
57 Red Groove E1 5b * 31
58 Kudos
-
E2 5c * 3
59 Risus
-
E2 5c * 10
60 Hobson's Choice
-
VS 4b * 16
61 Impact Day E8 6c *** 1
62 Sixpence E6 6b *** 11
Climb name Grade
63 Eclipse
-
E4 6a ** 20
64 Astra E2 5c *** 277
65 Supernova
-
E5 6a *  
66 Fallen Angel E4 6a *** 69
67 Angel Heart
-
E7 6a 3
68 Heartsong
-
E4 6b * 2
69 Cascade HVS 5a ** 97
70 Cascade Direct E3 5c ** 44
71 Aquarius HVS 5a *** 17
72 Bennison's Chimney VD  
73 Startrek
-
E3 5c ** 3
74 Easy Gully 1 ** 45
75 Pavey Far East
-
2 * 17
76 Retinal Detachment *
-
E2 5c ** 1
  North Buttress
78 Blood on the Tracks E3 5c * 4
79 Shelter from the Storm E3 6a **  
  Winter Routes
81 Jack's Rake
-
I 145
82 Stoats Crack
-
VI 6 * 3
83 Cook's Tour
-
IV 7
84 Deception
-
IV 5 * 3
85 Stony Buttress
-
III  
86 Great Gully
-
III * 7
87 Middling Buttress
-
III * 9
88 Little Gully Right Branch
-
II 5
89 Little Gully Left Branch
-
II 6
90 Great Gully Direct
-
III 1
91 Little Gully Right Left Branch
-
III ** 23
92 Gibsons chimney III 2
93 Easy Gully
-
I 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Liam Ingram