Climbs 84
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 700m a.s.l
Faces all

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Dave Birkett on 'Impact Day' E8/9 6c, Pavey Ark. © Alastair Lee - Posingproductions.com

Crag features

Long routes, good selection at all grades. Sound and amazingly rough rock in places. 

Approach notes

Park in large carparks at the New Dungeon Ghyll Hotel.

Approach time: 1 hour

Guidebooks

What is shelter from the storm? it certainly isn't a classic route.
Alan Phizacklea - 06/Nov/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Pavey Ark summit
-
summit 743
2 Jack's Rake 1 *** 1287
  Below Jack's Rake
4 Deception
-
S 26
5 Obscured by Clouds
-
E4 6a 2
6 The Rainmaker
-
E1 5b 19
7 Maggie's Farm
-
E3 5c 2
8 Cruel Sister E3 5c *** 191
9 Astral By-Way E3 5b * 1
10 Big Brother
-
E3 5c ** 12
11 Arcturus E1 5b *** 360
12 Capella E1 5b *** 465
13 Alphekka E2 5c ** 5
14 Wailing Wall
-
VS 4c 7
15 Alph
-
VS 4c * 9
16 Crescent Slabs S ** 357
17 Venus E1 5b ** 16
18 Mars E3 5c ** 3
19 Black Slab
-
VS 5a 37
20 Crescent Climb
-
M * 404
21 Crescent Direct
-
VS 4c * 8
22 Crescent Super Direct
-
E3 5c  
  Stoney Buttress
24 The Ragman's Trumpet
-
E2 5c * 6
25 Great Gully
-
D * 27
26 The Hobbit
-
E2 5b 4
27 Sinistral
-
E1 5a 1
28 Little Gully
-
M * 9
  Above Jack's Rake
30 Stoat's Crack
-
HS ** 205
Climb name Grade
31 Stickle Grooves
-
HVS 5a * 7
32 The Bracken-Clock E2 5c ** 218
33 Rock Around the Clock
-
E3 6a 4
34 By-Pass Route
-
HVS 5a 10
35 Rake End Wall VS 4c *** 447
36 The Rib Pitch HVS 5a * 139
37 Death Star E5 5c 2
38 Rake End Chimney D ** 73
39 The Rib E1 5c 10
40 Cook's Tour
-
VD * 143
41 Rectangular Slab
-
VS 4c * 49
42 Rectangular Rib
-
HVS 5a * 20
43 Coati VS 4b ** 135
44 Aardvark
-
E1 5c ** 119
45 Gwynne's Chimney
-
D * 283
46 Stalag
-
VS 4c * 9
47 Troll's Corner
-
HVS 5a ** 17
48 Poker Face E1 5b ** 195
49 Golden Slipper HVS 5a *** 720
50 Roundabout Direct
-
HVS 5a * 8
  East Buttress
52 Brain Damage
-
E3 5c * 12
53 Coma
-
E4 6a 1
54 Mother Courage
-
E4 6a *** 27
55 Assault and Matrimony
-
E4 6a 1
56 Red Groove
-
E1 5b * 30
57 Kudos
-
E2 5c * 3
58 Risus
-
E2 5c * 10
59 Hobson's Choice
-
VS 4b * 16
60 Impact Day E8 6c *** 1
Climb name Grade
61 Sixpence
-
E6 6b *** 12
62 Eclipse
-
E4 6a ** 20
63 Astra E2 5c *** 267
64 Supernova
-
E5 6a *  
65 Fallen Angel
-
E4 6a *** 66
66 Angel Heart
-
E7 6a 3
67 Heartsong
-
E4 6b * 2
68 Cascade
-
HVS 5a * 92
69 Cascade Direct
-
E3 5c ** 43
70 Aquarius
-
HVS 5a *** 14
71 Bennison's Chimney VD  
72 Startrek
-
E3 5c ** 3
73 Easy Gully 1 ** 44
74 Pavey Far East
-
2 * 17
  North Buttress
76 Blood on the Tracks
-
E3 5c ** 4
  Winter Routes
78 Jack's Rake
-
I 141
79 Stoats Crack VI 6 * 2
80 Cook's Tour IV 7
81 Deception IV 5 * 3
82 Stony Buttress III  
83 Great Gully III * 7
84 Middling Buttress III * 9
85 Little Gully Right Branch II 5
86 Little Gully Left Branch
-
II 6
87 Great Gully Direct III 1
88 Little Gully Right Left Branch III ** 23
89 Gibsons chimney III 2
90 Easy Gully *
-
I 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Liam Ingram