UKC

Climbs 83
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 700m a.s.l
Faces SE

Dave Birkett on 'Impact Day' E8/9 6c, Pavey Ark. © Alastair Lee - Posingproductions.com

Crag features

Long routes, good selection at all grades. Sound and amazingly rough rock in places. Best routes - Cruel Sister(E3), Arcturus(E1), Capella(E1), Bracken Clock(E2), Rake End Wall(VS), Rake End Chimney(D), Golden Slipper(HVS), Mother Courage(E4), Impact Day(E8), Sixpence(E6), Astra(E2), Fallen Angel(E4).

Approach notes

Park in large car parks at the New Dungeon Ghyll Hotel.About one hour uphill walk.

Guidebooks

What is shelter from the storm? it certainly isn't a classic route.
Alan Phizacklea - 06/Nov/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Pavey Ark summit
-
summit 623
2 Jack's Rake 1 *** 1081
  Below Jack's Rake
4 Deception
-
S 26
5 Obscured by Clouds
-
E4 6a 2
6 The Rainmaker
-
E1 5b 18
7 Maggie's Farm
-
E3 5c 2
8 Cruel Sister E3 5c *** 179
9 Astral By-Way E3 5b * 1
10 Big Brother
-
E3 5c ** 14
11 Arcturus E1 5b *** 322
12 Capella E1 5b *** 387
13 Alphekka E2 5c ** 4
14 Wailing Wall
-
VS 4c 5
15 Alph
-
VS 4c * 8
16 Crescent Slabs S ** 305
17 Venus E1 5b ** 12
18 Mars E3 5c ** 3
19 Black Slab
-
VS 5a 32
20 Crescent Climb
-
M * 339
21 Crescent Direct
-
VS 4c * 6
22 Crescent Super Direct
-
E3 5c  
  Stoney Buttress
24 The Ragman's Trumpet
-
E2 5c * 6
25 Great Gully
-
D * 23
26 The Hobbit
-
E2 5b 4
27 Sinistral
-
E1 5a 1
28 Little Gully
-
M * 9
  Above Jack's Rake
30 Stoat's Crack
-
HS ** 180
Climb name Grade
31 Stickle Grooves
-
HVS 5a * 6
32 The Bracken-Clock E2 5c ** 189
33 Rock Around the Clock
-
E3 6a 4
34 By-Pass Route
-
HVS 5a 10
35 Rake End Wall VS 4c *** 394
36 The Rib Pitch HVS 5a * 113
37 death star E5 5c 2
38 Rake End Chimney D ** 68
39 The Rib E1 5c 10
40 Cook's Tour
-
VD * 133
41 Rectangular Slab
-
VS 4c * 42
42 Rectangular Rib
-
HVS 5a * 19
43 Coati VS 4b ** 88
44 Aardvark
-
E1 5c ** 109
45 Gwynne's Chimney
-
D * 235
46 Stalag
-
VS 4c * 5
47 Troll's Corner
-
HVS 5a ** 13
48 Poker Face E1 5b ** 174
49 Golden Slipper HVS 5a *** 712
50 Roundabout Direct
-
HVS 5a * 7
  East Buttress
52 Brain Damage
-
E3 5c * 13
53 Coma
-
E4 6a 1
54 Mother Courage
-
E4 6a *** 31
55 Assault and Matrimony
-
E4 6a 1
56 Red Groove
-
E1 5b * 30
57 Kudos
-
E2 5c * 3
58 Risus
-
E2 5c * 8
59 Hobson's Choice
-
VS 4b * 15
60 Impact Day E8 6c ***  
Climb name Grade
61 Sixpence
-
E6 6b *** 11
62 Eclipse
-
E4 6a ** 21
63 Astra E2 5c *** 291
64 Supernova
-
E5 6a *  
65 Fallen Angel
-
E4 6a *** 62
66 Angel Heart
-
E7 6a 3
67 Heartsong
-
E4 6b * 2
68 Cascade
-
HVS 5a * 76
69 Cascade Direct
-
E3 5c ** 44
70 Aquarius
-
HVS 5a *** 8
71 Bennison's Chimney VD  
72 Startrek
-
E3 5c ** 3
73 Easy Gully 1 ** 44
74 Pavey Far East
-
2 * 16
  North Buttress
76 Blood on the Tracks
-
E3 5c ** 4
  Winter Routes
78 Jack's Rake (Winter)
-
I 111
79 Stoats Crack VI 6 * 2
80 Cook's Tour IV 7
81 Deception IV 5 * 3
82 Stony Buttress III  
83 Great Gully III * 9
84 Middling Buttress III * 9
85 Little Gully Right Branch II 5
86 Little Gully Left Branch
-
II 6
87 Great Gully Direct III 1
88 Little Gully Right Left Branch III ** 22
89 Gibsons chimney III 2

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