Climbs 83
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 700m a.s.l
Faces SE

Dave Birkett on 'Impact Day' E8/9 6c, Pavey Ark. © Alastair Lee - Posingproductions.com

Crag features

Long routes, good selection at all grades. Sound and amazingly rough rock in places. Best routes - Cruel Sister(E3), Arcturus(E1), Capella(E1), Bracken Clock(E2), Rake End Wall(VS), Rake End Chimney(D), Golden Slipper(HVS), Mother Courage(E4), Impact Day(E8), Sixpence(E6), Astra(E2), Fallen Angel(E4).

Approach notes

Park in large car parks at the New Dungeon Ghyll Hotel.About one hour uphill walk.

Guidebooks

What is shelter from the storm? it certainly isn't a classic route.
Alan Phizacklea - 06/Nov/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Pavey Ark summit
-
summit 572
2Jack's Rake1 ***997
 Below Jack's Rake 
4Deception
-
S 23
5Obscured by Clouds
-
E4 6a 2
6The Rainmaker
-
E1 5b 17
7Maggie's Farm
-
E3 5c 2
8Cruel SisterE3 5c ***169
9Astral By-WayE3 5b *1
10Big Brother
-
E3 5c **11
11ArcturusE1 5b ***357
12CapellaE1 5b ***415
13AlphekkaE2 5c **3
14Wailing Wall
-
VS 4c 5
15Alph
-
VS 4c *7
16Crescent SlabsS **309
17VenusE1 5b **13
18MarsE3 5c **3
19Black Slab
-
VS 5a 32
20Crescent Climb
-
M *343
21Crescent Direct
-
VS 4c *5
22Crescent Super Direct
-
E3 5c  
 Stoney Buttress 
24The Ragman's Trumpet
-
E2 5c *4
25Great Gully
-
D *25
26The Hobbit
-
E2 5b 3
27Sinistral
-
E1 5a 1
28Little Gully
-
M *9
 Above Jack's Rake 
30Stoat's Crack
-
HS **188
31Stickle Grooves
-
HVS 5a *5
32The Bracken-ClockE2 5c **190
33Rock Around the Clock
-
E3 6a 4
34By-Pass Route
-
HVS 5a 10
35Rake End WallVS 4c ***417
36The Rib PitchHVS 5a *103
37death starE5 5c 2
38Rake End ChimneyD **74
39The RibE1 5c 10
40Cook's Tour
-
VD *137
41Rectangular Slab
-
VS 4c *42
42Rectangular Rib
-
HVS 5a *20
43CoatiVS 4b **75
44Aardvark
-
E1 5c **113
45Gwynne's Chimney
-
D *239
46Stalag
-
VS 4c *5
47Troll's Corner
-
HVS 5a **12
48Poker FaceE1 5b **180
49Golden SlipperHVS 5a ***678
50Roundabout Direct
-
HVS 5a *7
 East Buttress 
52Brain Damage
-
E3 5c *12
53Coma
-
E4 6a 1
54Mother Courage
-
E4 6a ***27
55Assault and Matrimony
-
E4 6a 1
56Red Groove
-
E1 5b *28
57Kudos
-
E2 5c *3
58Risus
-
E2 5c *7
59Hobson's Choice
-
VS 4b *15
60Impact DayE8 6c *** 
61Sixpence
-
E6 6b ***22
62Eclipse
-
E4 6a **18
63AstraE2 5c ***270
64Supernova
-
E5 6a * 
65Fallen Angel
-
E4 6a ***56
66Angel Heart
-
E7 6a 3
67Heartsong
-
E4 6b *2
68Cascade
-
HVS 5a *78
69Cascade Direct
-
E3 5c **40
70Aquarius
-
HVS 5a ***8
71Bennison's ChimneyVD †  
72Startrek
-
E3 5c **3
73Easy Gully1 **41
74Pavey Far East
-
2 *12
 North Buttress 
76Blood on the Tracks
-
E3 5c **4
 Winter Routes 
78Jack's Rake (Winter)
-
I 103
79Stoats CrackVI 6 *2
80Cook's TourIV 7
81DeceptionIV 5 *3
82Stony ButtressIII  
83Great GullyIII *6
84Middling ButtressIII *9
85Little Gully Right BranchII 5
86Little Gully Left Branch
-
II 5
87Great Gully DirectIII 1
88Little Gully Right Left BranchIII **24
89Gibsons chimneyIII 2

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