Climbs 125
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces S

Chris gets some useful tips on the crux move. © Ann S

Crag features

A selection of short and long (three pitch) routes on six different buttresses along the hillside above the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel. Good selection at all grades. Quick drying. Best routes - Middlefell Buttress(D), Original Route(S), Pluto(HVS), Trilogy(E5), Dawes Rides a Shovelhead(E8), Centrefold(E6), R 'n' S Special(E5), Bilberry Buttress(VS), Revelation(HS). Take care on the SE descent past the large block above the top of Revelation, which was affected by rockfall in August 2018 - further information on an alternative (abseil) descent has been posted here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rocktalk/more_on_raven_crag_rockfall-691587

Approach notes

Park in the car park at the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel(arrive early at weekends, give up on Bank Holidays!)Crags are 10 - 15 min. walk up behind the pub(which is not to be missed at the end of the day!)
At busy times the much larger car park at NDG can be used. There is a pleasant walk through the fields from the western end of the NDG car park - through the stile and follow your nose to ODG.

Guidebooks

14/05/2016. There's a dead sheep at the bottom of Raven Crag Buttress. It's after Billberry Buttress but before Revelation. It was starting to smell on 14/05/2016 and is only going to get worse...
Fiona Reid - 16/May/16
Grip Trip is well worth doing.
wils - 07/Aug/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  West raven Crag
2 Sun Street
-
HS 2
3 Don't look Back!
-
E2 5c 1
  Middlefell Buttress
5 White Rabbit
-
HS 4
6 Maintenance Chimney
-
E1 * 1
7 D.G. Corner
-
HVS 5b  
8 Walk Tall
-
E2 5c * 1
9 Bitter End VS 4c * 1
10 Trambiolina
-
VS 4c 5
11 Armalite E4 6a ** 37
12 Fear and Loafing
-
HVS 5a *** 4
13 Perfect Head
-
E4 5c 3
14 Middlefell Buttress D * 2592
15 Middlefell Buttress (Left Wall Start) VD *** 248
16 Middlefell Buttress Right Hand Crack Start (Castration Crack) S 514
17 Curtain Wall
-
D * 278
18 Slim Buttress Arete
-
VS ** 5
19 Prometheus HVS 5a, 4a ** 144
20 Bradley's Damnation HVS 47
21 Mendes
-
VS 4c ** 641
22 Shower of Vegetation
-
E1 5b 9
23 Power of Imagination
-
E4 6b 2
24 Brown Eyed Girl E2 5c * 1
25 The Gamekeeper
-
E2 5b * 39
26 Bryson's Flange
-
E2 5c * 13
27 Carrion Climbing VS 4c 7
28 Mendes Traverse
-
HVS 5a 7
29 An Alternative Truth VS 4c * 2
30 Fuzz Face E1 5b 2
  Raven Crag Buttress
32 The Patella Pinch
-
E1 5b 16
33 Odin VS 4c * 174
34 Evening Oak Variations
-
VS 4c ** 25
35 Evening Wall
-
S 4a * 831
36 Holly Tree Traverse
-
VD * 409
37 Oak Tree Wall
-
S 4a ** 382
38 Nadir
-
VS 4c 23
39 The Original Route S 4a *** 1654
40 Holly Tree Direct
-
HVS 4c * 681
41 Pluto HVS 5a ** 772
42 Green Groove Finish E2 5b * 17
43 Trilogy E5 6a *** 105
44 Eulogy
-
E6 6b ** 6
Climb name Grade
45 Centrefold
-
E6 6b ** 1
46 Dawes Rides a Shovelhead
-
E8 6c 7
47 R 'n' S Special E5 6a ** 32
48 The Grip Trip E4 6a ** 8
49 Fine Time E5 6b * 29
50 Bilberry Buttress
-
VS 4c *** 1212
51 Bilberry Buttress Eliminate with the Green Groove Finish
-
E2 5c ** 8
52 Savernake
-
MS 4a * 309
53 Nutcracker Cleft
-
HVS 5a 21
54 Revelation
-
HS 4a *** 1520
55 Elevation HS 4a * 253
56 Kneewrecker Chimney
-
HVS 5a 87
57 Raven Girdle
-
S 18
58 Mourning Wall E1 5c 7
59 Muscle Crack
-
E1 5c * 91
60 Muscle Wall
-
E3 6a 1
61 Campaign Crack
-
E1 5b 36
  The Amphitheatre
63 Heavenly Host MVS 4b 1
64 Centipede
-
S 4a ** 960
65 Centipede Direct
-
E2 6a ** 35
66 Potluck
-
E2 5c  
67 Mythical M.M.
-
E3 6a 4
68 Sexpot
-
E3 5c 1
69 Marilyn Monroe Please
-
E3 6a * 1
70 Hotpot
-
VS 4c 28
71 Pottering HVS 5a 2
72 Potash
-
E3 5c 1
73 Paradise Way E1 5b 1
74 Heavens Above VS 4c 2
75 Saint's Way HVS 5a ** 1
  East raven Crag
77 Mamba
-
S 4b * 560
78 Ophidia
-
VS 4c * 429
79 By Jingo E1 5a 95
80 Jingo VS 4b * 245
81 Bingo VS 1
82 A Reader of Rock HVS 5a 10
83 Plumbline MVS 4b 1
84 Speckled Band
-
VD * 211
85 Jungle Wall
-
HS * 52
86 Rowan Tree Groove
-
HVS 4c * 196
87 Ramrod
-
HVS 4c * 140
88 Men at Work E1 5b 50
Climb name Grade
89 Casket HVS 5a * 93
90 The Chopper
-
HVS 5a * 265
91 Baskerville
-
VS 4c ** 417
92 Ornithology
-
S 117
93 Shizen Groove VS 4b 6
94 Joker's Slab
-
E1 5b 8
95 Brown Trousers
-
HVS 5a 7
96 Finger Swing
-
E3 6b 1
97 Sign of Four
-
VS 4c * 32
98 Watson Wall
-
HS 4b * 84
99 Subsidiary Ridge VD ** 91
  Far East Raven Crag
101 Pianissimo
-
S 4a 55
102 Pianola
-
E2 5b 23
103 The Shroud
-
HVS 5a 3
104 Frankie Goes to Kendal
-
E1 5b * 7
105 Babylon
-
E1 5b 13
106 Warlock
-
E5 6b 1
107 Nineveh VS 4b * 16
108 Nazareth
-
HVS 5a * 22
109 Samarkand
-
HVS 5a 18
110 Jerusalem
-
E2 5c 4
111 Damascus
-
VS 4c * 62
112 Peascod's Route
-
VS 4b 34
113 Right of Peascod's Route
-
S * 16
114 East Raven Girdle
-
VS 4c 7
115 Festerday HVS 5a 10
116 Jericho Wall
-
HVS 5b 5
117 Hollywood Babylon
-
E3 6a 2
118 Far East Traverse
-
VS 4c 4
  Far Far East Raven Crag
120 Deadly Dave's Demon Rib
-
S 2
121 Demonic Rib and Wall
-
HVS 5b 2
122 Naturally Demonic
-
E1 5b * 3
123 Deadly Dave's Demonic Groove
-
HVS 5a 2
124 Jokers Slab E1 5b 4
125 Marilyn Munroe Please
-
E3 6a 2
126 Blackout
-
HVS 5a 3
127 Raven Crag scramble 2 * 32
128 Carrion
-
VS 1
129 Albino Hare
-
MS 1
130 Direct Start VS 5a 2

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