UKC

Climbs 125
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces S

Chris gets some useful tips on the crux move. © Ann S

Crag features

A selection of short and long (three pitch) routes on six different buttresses along the hillside above the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel. Good selection at all grades. Quick drying. Best routes - Middlefell Buttress(D), Original Route(S), Pluto(HVS), Trilogy(E5), Dawes Rides a Shovelhead(E8), Centrefold(E6), R 'n' S Special(E5), Bilberry Buttress(VS), Revelation(HS). Take care on the SE descent past the large block above the top of Revelation.

Approach notes

Park in the car park at the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel(arrive early at weekends, give up on Bank Holidays!)Crags are 10 - 15 min. walk up behind the pub(which is not to be missed at the end of the day!)
At busy times the much larger car park at NDG can be used. There is a pleasant walk through the fields from the western end of the NDG car park - through the stile and follow your nose to ODG.

Guidebooks

14/05/2016. There's a dead sheep at the bottom of Raven Crag Buttress. It's after Billberry Buttress but before Revelation. It was starting to smell on 14/05/2016 and is only going to get worse...
Fiona Reid - 16/May/16
Grip Trip is well worth doing.
wils - 07/Aug/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  West raven Crag
2 Sun Street
-
HS 2
3 Don't look Back!
-
E2 5c 1
  Middlefell Buttress
5 White Rabbit
-
HS 4
6 Maintenance Chimney
-
E1 * 1
7 D.G. Corner
-
HVS 5b  
8 Walk Tall
-
E2 5c * 1
9 Trambiolina
-
VS 4c 4
10 Armalite E4 6a ** 36
11 Perfect Head
-
E4 5c 3
12 Middlefell Buttress D * 2410
13 Middlefell Buttress (Left Wall Start) VD *** 220
14 Middlefell Buttress Right Hand Crack Start (Castration Crack) S 496
15 Curtain Wall
-
D * 265
16 Slim Buttress Arete
-
VS ** 3
17 Prometheus HVS 5a, 4a ** 112
18 Bradley's Damnation HVS 46
19 Mendes
-
VS 4c ** 595
20 Shower of Vegetation
-
E1 5b 9
21 Power of Imagination
-
E4 6b 2
22 Brown Eyed Girl E2 5c * 1
23 The Gamekeeper
-
E2 5b * 37
24 Bryson's Flange
-
E2 5c * 13
25 Carrion Climbing VS 4c 7
26 Mendes Traverse
-
HVS 5a 5
27 An Alternative Truth VS 4c * 2
  Raven Crag Buttress
29 The Patella Pinch
-
E1 5b 16
30 Odin VS 4c * 161
31 Evening Oak Variations
-
VS 4c ** 25
32 Evening Wall
-
S 4a * 775
33 Holly Tree Traverse
-
VD * 381
34 Oak Tree Wall
-
S 4a ** 353
35 Nadir
-
VS 4c 23
36 The Original Route S 4a *** 1524
37 Holly Tree Direct
-
HVS 4c * 644
38 Pluto HVS 5a ** 741
39 Green Groove Finish E2 5b * 15
40 Trilogy E5 6a *** 90
41 Eulogy
-
E6 6b ** 6
42 Centrefold
-
E6 6b ** 1
43 Dawes Rides a Shovelhead
-
E8 6c 7
Climb name Grade
44 R 'n' S Special E5 6a ** 32
45 The Grip Trip E4 6a ** 7
46 Fine Time E5 6b * 27
47 Bilberry Buttress
-
VS 4c *** 1142
48 Bilberry Buttress Eliminate with the Green Groove Finish
-
E2 5c ** 6
49 Savernake
-
MS 4a * 285
50 Nutcracker Cleft
-
HVS 5a 21
51 Revelation
-
HS 4a *** 1426
52 Elevation HS 4a * 216
53 Kneewrecker Chimney
-
HVS 5a 76
54 Raven Girdle
-
S 18
55 Mourning Wall E1 5c 4
56 Muscle Crack
-
E1 5c * 88
57 Muscle Wall
-
E3 6a 1
58 Campaign Crack
-
E1 5b 36
  The Amphitheatre
60 Heavenly Host MVS 4b 1
61 Centipede
-
S 4a ** 903
62 Centipede Direct
-
E2 6a ** 35
63 Potluck
-
E2 5c  
64 Mythical M.M.
-
E3 6a 4
65 Sexpot
-
E3 5c 1
66 Marilyn Monroe Please
-
E3 6a * 1
67 Hotpot
-
VS 4c 28
68 Pottering HVS 5a 2
69 Potash
-
E3 5c 1
70 Paradise Way E1 5b 1
71 Heavens Above VS 4c 2
72 Saint's Way HVS 5a ** 1
  East raven Crag
74 Mamba
-
S 4b * 526
75 Ophidia
-
VS 4c * 393
76 By Jingo E1 5a 78
77 Jingo VS 4b * 223
78 Bingo VS 1
79 A Reader of Rock HVS 5a 6
80 Plumbline MVS 4b 1
81 Speckled Band
-
VD * 198
82 Jungle Wall
-
HS * 51
83 Rowan Tree Groove
-
HVS 4c * 182
84 Ramrod
-
HVS 4c * 130
85 Men at Work E1 5b 45
86 Casket HVS 5a * 90
Climb name Grade
87 The Chopper
-
HVS 5a * 247
88 Baskerville
-
VS 4c ** 389
89 Ornithology
-
S 112
90 Shizen Groove VS 4b 6
91 Joker's Slab
-
E1 5b 7
92 Brown Trousers
-
HVS 5a 7
93 Finger Swing
-
E3 6b 1
94 Sign of Four
-
VS 4c * 28
95 Watson Wall
-
HS 4b * 75
96 Subsidiary Ridge VD ** 88
  Far East Raven Crag
98 Pianissimo
-
S 4a 53
99 Pianola
-
E2 5b 23
100 The Shroud
-
HVS 5a 3
101 Frankie Goes to Kendal
-
E1 5b * 7
102 Babylon
-
E1 5b 12
103 Warlock
-
E5 6b 1
104 Nineveh VS 4b * 14
105 Nazareth
-
HVS 5a * 19
106 Samarkand
-
HVS 5a 18
107 Jerusalem
-
E2 5c 4
108 Damascus
-
VS 4c * 58
109 Peascod's Route
-
VS 4b 34
110 Right of Peascod's Route
-
S * 13
111 East Raven Girdle
-
VS 4c 7
112 Festerday HVS 5a 10
113 Jericho Wall
-
HVS 5b 5
114 Hollywood Babylon
-
E3 6a 2
115 Far East Traverse
-
VS 4c 4
  Far Far East Raven Crag
117 Deadly Dave's Demon Rib
-
S 2
118 Demonic Rib and Wall
-
HVS 5b 1
119 Naturally Demonic
-
E1 5b * 2
120 Deadly Dave's Demonic Groove
-
HVS 5a 2
121 Jokers Slab E1 5b 4
122 Marilyn Munroe Please
-
E3 6a 2
123 Blackout
-
HVS 5a 3
124 Raven Crag scramble 2 * 27
125 Carrion
-
VS 1
126 Albino Hare
-
MS 1
127 Direct Start VS 5a 2

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