Climbs 106
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 333m a.s.l
Faces SW

Mane Vision © Dave Warburton

Crag features

The crag is in a pleasant situation on the edge of Blakey Ridge, overlooking Farndale. Though there are some easier climbs here, the quality is mainly confined to the middle and higher grades. The crag specialises in hard, short, technical and often bold routes in the E2-E6 range.

The boulder beneath the pinnacle has some worthwhile problems as well as a very hard project on its front face.

Approach notes

This accessible crag is not visible from the road. The best approach is from the Lion Inn. Follow the wall and continue in a southwesterly direction. Cross the old railway and continue downwards and the crag will soon be encountered. 10 minutes from the Lion Inn.

A nice place to climb, routes are undergraded.
James Oakes - 31/Jul/10
If you listen to the grades and attempt to onsight the harder routes at this crag you will die or be badly maimed.
Franco Cookson OLD - 15/Nov/09
A beautiful place to climb, but a little green in places.
Hitch - 18/Aug/09
Incredibly hard routes. In an owe-inspiring situation- if you're going to climb hard anywhere- this is the palce.
Franco Cookson - 18/Feb/08
Quality crag, a great concentration of very hard climbing, in a excellent place, with great views into Farndale and the Pub is only 5 minutes walk away. Worth a trip.
DaveWarb - 02/Feb/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Lion Buttress
2 Kitty Cat
-
VS 4b 1
3 Twin Cracks E1 5b 5
4 The Lioness
-
HVS 5b 5
5 Mane Vision E4 6b ** 7
6 Kitten VS 5a 4
7 The Big Cat
-
E2 6a ** 5
8 Can you do the Can Can? f6A+ * 7
9 The Candy Man Can f6B+ * 8
  The Pinnacle
11 Heel of Approval E4 6b 8
12 Pippi Longstocking E5 6c ** 1
13 Farndale Fayre E5 6b ** 6
14 Time Out E3 6a *** 7
15 Fresh Arete (siderunners) E5 6b ** 5
16 Fresh Arete (no siderunners) E7 6b ** 3
17 Scut de Scun ai E6 6b ** 2
18 Picnic @ At Hanging Rock
-
XS 4c  
19 Telescopic
-
E4 5c 3
20 Pillar Torque VD 9
21 Octopet E4 6b * 5
22 Honey Arete E5 6b *** 6
23 Vampiric Obsession E5 6b ** 9
24 The Honey Badger Link Up E5 6a * 1
25 Vampiric Recession E3 5c * 3
26 Idle Ignorance E2 5c 4
27 Idle Potash E4 5c 1
28 A Fistful of Potash E6 6a 5
29 Scut de scum aye f5+ 1
30 Quim Fingers HVS 5a  
31 Safari S *  
32 Mastodon Dreams E2 5c  
  The Right Flank
34 Dither E2 6a * 8
35 Beaver Fever E1 5c * 7
36 Ditheralot
-
HVS 5c  
37 Ditherytoo
-
HVS 5a  
38 Wander S 3
39 Black Out E4 6b * 3
40 Flake Crack VD 8
41 Fit Innit E3 5c ** 2
42 Dirty Girl
-
VS 5a 12
43 Slippery Nipple
-
VS 5a 5
44 Sarah's Route
-
VD 6
45 Just Green
-
HVD 2
46 Giant Smarties
-
HVD 1
47 Archway
-
S 5
48 Tournament of Shadows E4 6a * 1
  Pannierman Boulder
50 Fat Cactus f6A+ * 6
51 Pannierman's Arete f6B * 6
52 Pannierman's Arete SS f6B+ ** 3
53 Slabbierman's Arete f5+ * 2
  Winter
55 Christmas Roundness VI 9 1
56 Round Cigar IV 5 * 1
  Other Bouldering
58 Rainbow Wall - 7a f7A 3
59 Low Roof 6c f6C 1
60 Side Kick f7A+ ** 2
61 Side Kick RH f7A * 8
62 Problem 3.8 f5 2
63 The Dragon f6A 2
64 Arete Below Black Out f7A 1
65 Chasing Rainbows f7C *** 7
66 Micro Traverse f5+ 4
67 You Are Here f5 5
68 Second Nature f4 5
69 Variety Crack - Left Side f6A * 3
70 Variety Crack f4 4
71 Variety Crack - Right Side f5 5
72 Micro Quarry - Problem 5 f4 4
73 Bear Breaker f5+ 2
74 Gamekeeper f5 2
75 Hound f4+ 3
76 Bear Edge f4 3
77 Rift f6A 1
78 Sleeper f6B+ * 5
79 The Event f6A 7
80 Chuck Rock f6B+ 3
81 Spaghettification f5+ 2
82 Busting Some Moves f5 3
83 Chocolate Box Area - Problem 2 f3 5
84 Chocolate Box Area - Problem 3 f3 5
85 Chocolate Box Area - Problem 4 f4+ 5
86 Chocolate Box Area - Problem 5 f3 6
87 Chocolate Box Area - Problem 6 f4+ 6
88 Pure Madness f6B  
89 Coffee Cream f5+ 2
90 Chocolate Box Area - Problem 7 f4+ 5
91 Smooth Talker f5+  
92 Mr Smooth f5+  
93 Flight Of the Concords f6A *  
94 Flight Path f6B+ * 3
95 Flight Facilities f6A+ * 2
96 Fight or Flight f6B+ * 1
97 Spitfire f5+  
98 Undercut Wall - Problem 8 f5+ 1
99 Undercut Wall - Problem 9 f5  
100 Prism Crack f5 2
101 The Colour Wheel f5+ 2
102 Colours of the Mind f8A **  
103 Ultraviolet f6B+ * 1
104 Shadow Illusion f6A * 4
105 Liquid Refraction f7B *  
106 Rainbow Wall - Problem 8 f2  
107 Lions Raw E6 6c * 2
108 The Brave
-
f6A  
109 Falling Arete
-
f6B 3
110 Mystic Marsh
-
f6A 3
111 Zig-Zag
-
f4  
112 Hard Labour
-
f6A 2

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