UKC

Climbs 193
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 600m a.s.l
Faces all

Guadalest - Sector del Castillo © Tom Phillips

Crag features

The rocky citadel of Guadalest has always been known as a major tourist trap for coach trips from the coast. In recent years the extensive walls have been developed with a selection of excellent routes across the grades, on some unique rock formations.

The routes listed here are well-bolted sport routes - a good supply of quick-draws and a 60m rope should be adequate for the majority of them. There are some multi-pitch routes too, offering a good a introduction to that style of climbing. There is also the occasional longer pitch (30m+) in amongst the rest, though mid-height lower-offs are usually installed. There isn't too much in the way of harder climbing, as most of the faces are slabby. There are some older trad routes scattered amongst the sporty stuff; we haven't listed these here. In the early days of development there were sporadic incidents of people being asked to leave the newly developed climbs on the walls below the swimming pool, on the Sector Penya l'Alcalà. The place is well and truly open for business now and it can get very busy.

Set at 600m, Guadalest can be cold in the winter - snow is not unheard of. In the summer, the sun can be followed or avoided depending on how hot it is. There is also some shade to be had from the trees when it gets too hot. The town and its trappings is worth a look if it is too hot to climb.

Good topo here:

http://www.destinoguadalest.com/archivos/Escalada%20en%20Guadalest.pdf

Approach notes

Guadalest is well-signed since it is a popular tourist destination. The quickest approach is to take the good CV70 from one of the Benidorm junctions inland past Polop (and Vall de Guadar and the Ponoch). It can also be reached from Altea via Callosa but the roads aren't as good. The Castle and Boulder crags are approached from one of the main coach car parks. For the main Penya l'Alcalà and Penya Maura crags, on a right-hand bend in town, turn sharp left onto a steep road signed to 'Piscine Municipal' and drop down, past the swimming pool, to a large parking area by a building directly below the main crag. More details are given on the crag pages.

Access Advice

Route 96 Arc de San Martin to 103 Avaratar - currently these should not be climbed (bolts have been removed due to loose rock)

Plese note:  the council could halt climbing at any time. Miguel, the owner of the refuge opposite Penya Maura, has developed the crag at his own effort and expense, as part of his business.  It is a crag which needs maintenance, as there is much soft and loose rock, which undergoes changes with use and weathering. The council look to Miguel to keep climbing there safe, so for climbing to continue at Guadalest, Miguel's Refuge needs to be a viable business, and serious accidents need to be avoided.

So please -

Take advice from Miguel, who does not speak english, even if you have difficulty understanding what he is trying to communicate.

Wear a helmet all the time you are at the crag.

Support Miguel's business. Please visit the Refuge for a beer or (excellent) coffee.  There is plenty of parking space at the refuge.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Spain : Costa Blanca

The 2013 edition of the popular Costa Blanca Rockfax. 456 pages, 3000 routes on over 40 crags. Covers sport climbing and trad climbing from Murcia, through Alicante, Benidorm and Calp, up to crags south of Valencia.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Spain : Costa Blanca - Rockfax App (2014)
Guadalest (2006)
Climbed at the Zoo today. Sharp but high friction rock with great bolting and excellent lower offs. Should be more popular.
Wayne.Gaudin - 14/Oct/17
On Penya Maura we were asked to wear helmets to belay because it is on private property and that is the agreement with the land owners.
Wayne.Gaudin - 29/Mar/17
I was with a group of friends climbing at Penya Maura yesterday and we were told by the refugio owner that guides/climbing businesses shouldn't bring their clients to 'his' crag! I wasn't working whilst here so wasn't applicable (our car is logo'd). But I do have this venue in mind for future working days, now unsure if this is a good idea. Tom Philips or anyone else in the know, are you able to shed any light on this please?
Mark Eddy - 05/Nov/16
Great crag, lovely rock, varied routes. We experienced no access problems. Perfect location
beefyhanes - 17/Jan/13
There are many new climbs here that have been added over the last few years. It is now a great venue with very easy access. Full details will appear in the 2013 Rockfax, but should you need a topo in the meantime email the crag moderator tom@pcoms.com
Tom Phillips - 29/Nov/12
New routes are being checked an added every week - soon I will re-group climbs into the correct butresses and remove incorrect routes, but please add any missing routes or enter notes on any info you think is incorrect. Thanks
Tom Phillips - 07/Mar/12
The route list is seriously outdated and needs attention.
Pencarth - 07/Mar/12
No access issues a great place to go to escape the sun if too hot. Grading is a bit hit and miss and some of the rock is quite friabble.Sector Pyramid seems easy for grades in guide, while Sector Castillo seems hard than guide, though some holds may be missing since guide was written. Very quite only saw two other climbers and we went there two days.
krikoman - 12/Oct/09
No access issues, lots of Spanish climbers there when we were (Sunday) great place to go to escape sun if too hot.
krikoman - 12/Oct/09
Access issues seem to be OK at the moment, The Spanish chap who has in the past asked people to leave is called "Tubo" and has no right to do so. But if in doubt climb on the Sector Penya Maura (most Easterly section)
Tom Phillips - 24/Feb/09
We were also told to leave the crag due to conservation. Apparently not true (you should note the amount of rubbish nearby)its possibly a grudge against rockfax not talking to the locals.
cwarby - 10/Nov/07
We were asked to leave this crag (Oct 07) by a Spanish chap who claimed that 'alpinism' was forbidden, due to the presence of rare plants on the crags. Nothing about this in the guidebooks, but he seemed genuine.
geckoid - 23/Oct/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Zoo
2 La Broca de Sant Antoni 6a 3
3 Dissabtes de plutja 6a 2
4 La rabosa curiosa 6a+ 3
5 Al temps que solsia 6a 3
6 Lespero del Porro 6a 3
7 Savina bonsai 6a 9
8 Mustelid intripid 6b * 6
9 A Pel Tercer Garrofa 5c 12
10 Al Azraq 6a 6
11 Teucrium Buxifolium 6a 3
12 Soliquer critdaner 6a+ 1
13 L'Agulla 6a  
14 El Forat 6a 5
15 Quin sol fa 5c 16
16 El badall 6a 11
17 Temps de joc 5a 18
  Castillo
19 Borrosca de neu 6a * 69
20 Neu ne Marc 5a * 122
21 Men isc cascat 5a ** 197
22 Baix la cova baix de Llus 5a * 90
23 Pajarito 6b+ ** 34
24 Carabassa t'han donat 5c ** 136
25 Sang trait 6a ** 118
26 Contes i Llegendes 6b ** 62
27 La Senda del parabolt 6c ** 26
28 ¿? 6c+ * 1
  Sector Everest
30 Mare mevia 6b 6
31 Aitana 6a+ 17
32 Sargantana rocallera 6b 19
33 Temporal de Llevant 6a+ 8
34 Brosseta de Penya 6a+ 12
35 La Cango del Caro 6a 38
36 Arros amb Costra 5c 68
37 M'han Llevat Mosquetons 6b 55
38 Glopet de Mel 5c 54
39 Turismo Rural 6a+ 28
40 Xe Que Bo! 6a 11
  Sector Pyramid
42 La Placa Ataka 5c * 48
43 La Nosta terra 6a+ 29
44 El Meucor esta fotut 4c 46
45 Respeta L'Entorn 5c * 77
46 Retovato Glutamato 6a * 68
47 Al mar quina castanya 6a+ * 51
48 L'Hedra 5c * 48
49 La panxa s'enganxa 6a+ * 22
  Sector l'Orgue
51 Badallant 6a * 3
52 Hores bruixes 6b ** 16
53 l'Orgue 6a+ ** 35
54 Desapinant-lo 6c * 1
55 L'Aixmeneta ?  
  Penya L'Alcala
  Sector Avoremon
58 Orugeta 6b 1
59 Sua 6a 4
60 En Al Vergel 6a+ *** 4
61 Grizzly 5c ** 4
62 Lemy 6a 2
  Sector Izquierdo
64 Vía clásica 5c 3
65 Maulets a la Lluita 6a ** 49
66 Endevant 6a ** 49
67 Coses de Tubo 6a+ ** 14
68 Marina Baixa 6b ** 17
Climb name Grade
  Sector Central
70 Malvinas 5c 8
71 Gibraltar 6a 10
72 Irlanda del Norte 6a 8
73 Electricas 6c **  
74 Komerokas 6c **  
75 Son Goku 6c *** 16
76 Estética 6c ** 7
77 Cariat de Güelo 6b+ ** 26
78 L'Espill o Llibre 6a+ *** 75
79 Tirant lo Blanc 5c * 73
80 La disputa de l'ase 6a+ * 41
81 Fuig d'Aci 6b+ 9
82 Contaminació britànica 6c+ * 4
83 Territorios Ocupados 7a * 14
84 La Muixeranga (P1) 6a 96
85 L'Ham de foc lo blanc (P1) 5c 58
86 Directa i Au (P1) 5a * 118
87 La Diagonal 4a 5
88 Carretera ocultaana 5a 1
89 Festa d'Estiu 5c *** 69
90 Xirimita 5c *** 37
91 Tabalet 6a *** 55
92 La Muixeranga (P2) 5c *** 100
93 L'Ham de foc lo blanc (P2) 6a ** 37
94 Directa i Au 6b+ *** 25
95 Tigre de Papel 4a  
96 Arc de Sant Marti 5c ** 64
97 Cuerpo Escombro 5a * 7
98 Del Tossal a l'hort 6a ** 38
99 Man Hincha El Morro 6b * 1
100 No ho se 5c ** 62
101 Parapa Jote 6b * 3
102 Obrint pas 6a * 29
103 Avaratar 6b * 10
104 No em Tokeu els Ous 6a ** 58
105 L'Escorxador de víes 6b *** 56
  Sector Derecho
107 La lluna de Sant Joan 5c ** 90
108 Eclipsi 6a+ * 18
109 Pericana Sense Gana 6b ** 25
110 El principi i el fi 6a+ ** 19
111 Llums i sombres 6a+ ** 33
112 Erotika 6a+ *** 70
113 Pels Pels 6a+ * 25
114 Cavernícola 6a ** 29
115 Cassalla 6c * 10
116 Oli d'oliva 6c+ 7
117 Orxata de Xufa 6a ** 50
118 Torró de Xixona 6a+ ** 34
119 La pedra ibérica 5c *** 115
120 Quebrantadedos 6a+ * 8
121 Klandestina 5c * 6
122 Pilart 6a * 34
123 Depredació urbanística 6b ** 52
124 Prou d'ocupació 6a ** 64
125 Dieta mediterránea 5c ** 73
126 L.S.D. 6a ** 3
  Sector Iniciacion
128 Si te Caes te lo Merecures 4c 67
129 Buscando los pitufos 4a * 120
130 Pa pekes 4c * 137
131 Parisol 4c * 138
132 Andrea, qué palo 4c * 95
  Sector pas de la Rabossa
134 Cascahuesos 6a * 9
135 Guadalepina 6b+ ** 13
136 Sueño del Pitu 7a ** 16
137 Soñaba con el Patata 7a+ ** 12
Climb name Grade
138 Arroz con feixol 7a+ ** 3
139 Trencapedres 7b * 3
140 Masacre subcutanea 7c * 3
141 Lección aprendida 6a 37
142 Aprendiendo a Escalar 4c 27
143 Lagartija pija 5c 46
144 A tomar por tubo 6a * 54
145 Poda legal 6a+ * 40
146 Gipipollas 6b * 20
147 L'avinagrá 6b * 7
148 L'insoportable levetat del ser 6c * 5
149 Brujos y diablos 7a * 4
150 Sentido común 7a+ * 3
151 Kale Borroka 6c+ 2
152 La Bruja Piruja 7a+ 2
153 Subiendo al frenopático 6c+ 2
154 L'home Mistol 6b+ 2
155 Hombre Alcanfor 6b 2
  Penya Maura
157 Harp * 5a 2
158 Medusa * 4b 2
  Sector Iniciación
160 Sodoma 3c 41
161 Gomorra 3c 46
162 Pedorra 4a 44
163 Ésta También Se Mueve 3c * 56
164 Solo la del cordino 4a * 78
165 Escrototeame 6a 74
166 La Abeja Nahia 5a 66
167 La soplá 5c 60
  Cara Oeste
169 Coñocabra 6b+ 24
170 Cornicabra 5c * 107
171 Phillip El Grande 6b+ * 5
172 Margallo 6a+ ** 127
173 Intolerancia 0 7a * 22
174 Garrofer 6a+ ** 81
175 Ron con porros 6b ** 44
176 Hay que darlo to 7b+ **  
177 Maura 6b ** 8
178 Punta La Polla Malotta 7b ** 6
179 Pais Valencia 6c+ * 4
180 La Perla 6b * 28
181 Flor d'Ametler 6c ** 23
182 Primavera 6b+ ** 38
183 Makarrereta 6b ** 51
184 Inevitable 6b+ ** 30
185 Okupa 6b ** 40
186 Jana 6a ** 134
187 Jana Right 6b * 6
188 Slanting crack
-
HS 4b *** 5
  Cara Sur
190 Ester's Chimney S 4a *** 40
191 Amber Lights
-
S 4b ** 14
192 Rock Star 6b+ ** 5
193 Penya Right Six 6a+ 61
194 Penya Right Seven 6a 54
195 Penya Right Eight 5c 67
196 Penya Right Nine 5c 67
197 Roller Coaster 6a+ ** 6
198 Electric Man 6a * 5
199 Way Out 6a 5
200 Fences 5c 6
201 Outside Edge
-
HS 4b ** 7
202 Si te caes te lo mereces *
-
4b 2
203 The Haze * 4b * 3
204 Esters Arete *
-
4a ***  
205 Iron Bell *
-
5a 2
206 Fiddler * 5c 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Tom Phillips