Climbs 88
Rocktype Schist
Altitude 202m a.s.l
Faces SW

Iain Howie on the crux of Twilight. © MightyStew

Crag features

Craig a Barns and Polney Crag offer some accessible one and two-pitch routes covering all grades, in a weather oasis that seems to stay dry even when the rest of Scotland is wet! However, tree cover can make Polney slow to dry and the rock is slippery when damp so care is required after rain.

The outlook is pleasing, making this a popular venue. There are some bolted routes located at the W end of Polney. Dedicated sport climbers should also head to Cave Crag (listed separately).

Safety note: The top of the crag has a fair amount of loose, steep ground and a slip can have (and has had) unfortunate consequences. A popular descent route is to ab down Hairy Gully - provided, of course, that the route is not being climbed. Slings and a maillon will generally be found in place round the most convenient tree at the top of the gully. In winter pine needles can cover many of the holds and ledges on the easier routes.

Note for logbooks: According to the SMC guidebook the Craig a Barns "area" covers three crags: Polney Crag, Lover's Leap and Cave Crags. Cave Crag (sp) is listed separately in the database so I've put the routes on Upper Cave Crag, Lower Cave Crag and Even Lower Cave Crag under that name. Lover's Leap only has a few routes and access is from the same point as Cave Crags, so I've included the Lover's Leap routes under Cave Crag.

Approach notes

Park at the side of road on the old A9 just outside of Dunkeld, past the old curling pond on the right. Polney Crag is five minutes uphill from here. (The road has now re-opened, so it is advisable to take a little care when crossing the road and manoeuvring in and out of parking spots as the bend in the road below the crag is fairly blind.)

Found a craghopper pullover fleece on the way up to the crag yesterday. Any one know the owner?
Paul Roberts - 29/Aug/15
The Groove (VS 5a) - a candidate for Scotland's best one-pitch VS! Brilliant climb.
nickinscottishmountains - 26/Aug/03
Very fingery, very nice view over Dunkeld.
er - 26/Aug/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Myopics Buttress 
2Myopic's Corner
-
HVS 5a *18
3Direct Finish to Myopic's CornerE2 5c * 
4Unknown7a 10
5The Chopping Block
-
7b **116
6Shimmy7c *3
7Shimmy Sham8a *2
8The Vibes
-
7c **27
9Vibes Right hand finish7c  
10Vibe Heads7b+ ***12
11Bad Vibes7c+ **10
12Granola Head
-
7c *29
13Nameless?6c+ 2
14The Stumbling Block *7c+ ***4
 Ivy Buttress 
16The Bashful Groove
-
E2 5b  
17Psoriasis
-
E3 6a *21
18Sideline
-
E5 6b *6
19Sideline Direct (The Sharp End)E6 7a *3
20Stolen Ivy
-
E7 6c * 
21Hot TipsE5 6c **13
22Cold Tips
-
E5 6c * 
23For Your Own Pleasure
-
E4 6a  
24Ivy CrackVS 4c *387
25Poison Ivy (Without Arete Start)VS 5a *141
26Poison IvyE1 5b *30
27Poison Arete
-
E3 5c 6
28Consolation CornerVD *306
 Upper Buttress 
30Left-Hand Edge
-
HVS 4c 8
31Left-Hand Crack
-
E2 5c **101
32Right-Hand Crack
-
VS 5a 46
33Mottled Rib
-
VD *35
34Hogg's HindquartersVD **200
35The Trap
-
HVS 5b 20
 Main Cliff, Left Section 
37AnonD 122
38Kestrel CrackS *710
39Kestrel Crack Variation Finish I
-
HVS 5a *38
40Kestrel Crack Variation Finish II
-
VS 5a 45
41Katie Morag's First StepsMVS 4b 97
42Twisted RibVD *334
43Monopod
-
E2 8
44Beech WallHS **547
45Piker's Progress
-
VS 5a *62
46Piker's Variation
-
HVS 5a 8
47Piker's Progress Direct
-
HVS 5a *181
48The Way Through
-
E2 5b **137
49The Porker
-
E3 5b 5
50The GrooveVS 5a ***628
51The Rut
-
VS 5a **466
52Wriggle
-
VS 5a **281
53Twilight
-
E2 5c *156
54Wriggle Direct
-
HVS 5a 29
55Scram '79
-
E4 5c *6
56Holly Tree GrooveVD **648
57Blast Off
-
HVS 5b *1
58Recess RouteVD 198
59The CreepS *120
60Dynamo
-
VS 5a *87
61Nicotine Rush
-
E2 5b *8
62Turbo
-
E2 5c *2
63The Excuse
-
E2 6a *7
64Cuticle CreekMVS 51
65Cuticle CrackS **917
66Airy Arete
-
VS 4c 60
67The Crescent
-
VD *39
68Hairy GullyM 64
 Main Cliff, Right Section 
70Bollard ButtressMS 206
71Bollard Buttress DirectHS *232
72SpringboardHVS 5a **159
73Springboard Direct VariationE3 5c **28
74Live Wire
-
E5 6a 7
75Jumble
-
D 3
76Helter Skelter
-
HVS 5a 10
77The ChuteVS 5a *132
78Space Scuttle
-
E1 5b *26
79Pop
-
HVS 4c *14
80The EndVS 5a, 4c **545
81Barefoot/BeginningE2 5c **91
82Terminal ButtressHS *220
83Crash Test Dummies
-
E3 5c 31
84The Duel Variation
-
E4 6a **7
85The Mound of Venus
-
E2 5c 7
86Carpet Beater
-
HVS 5a *44
87Eschebaum
-
VD 14
88Spirochaete
-
VS 4b *111
89Gitanes
-
VS 4c 2
90Girdle TraverseVS 4c 6
91"S" CrackS 8
92Un-namedS 3
93Twisted Rib (Direct Finish)VS 4c *2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Martin McKenna - UKC