UKC

Climbs 117
Rocktype Schist
Altitude 202m a.s.l
Faces SW

Iain Howie on the crux of Twilight. © MightyStew

Crag features

Craig a Barns and Polney Crag offer some accessible one and two-pitch routes covering all grades, in a weather oasis that seems to stay dry even when the rest of Scotland is wet! However, tree cover can make Polney slow to dry and the rock is slippery when damp so care is required after rain.

The outlook is pleasing, making this a popular venue. There are some bolted routes located at the W end of Polney. Dedicated sport climbers should also head to Cave Crag (listed separately).

Safety note: The top of the crag has a fair amount of loose, steep ground and a slip can have (and has had) unfortunate consequences. A popular descent route is to ab down Hairy Gully - provided, of course, that the route is not being climbed. Slings and a maillon will generally be found in place round the most convenient tree at the top of the gully. In winter pine needles can cover many of the holds and ledges on the easier routes.

Note for logbooks: According to the SMC guidebook the Craig a Barns "area" covers three crags: Polney Crag, Lover's Leap and Cave Crags. Cave Crag (sp) is listed separately in the database so I've put the routes on Upper Cave Crag, Lower Cave Crag and Even Lower Cave Crag under that name. Lover's Leap only has a few routes and access is from the same point as Cave Crags, so I've included the Lover's Leap routes under Cave Crag.

Approach notes

Park at the side of road on the old A9 just outside of Dunkeld, past the old curling pond on the right. Polney Crag is five minutes uphill from here. (The road has now re-opened, so it is advisable to take a little care when crossing the road and manoeuvring in and out of parking spots as the bend in the road below the crag is fairly blind.)

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Guidebooks

Found a craghopper pullover fleece on the way up to the crag yesterday. Any one know the owner?
Paul Roberts - 29/Aug/15
The Groove (VS 5a) - a candidate for Scotland's best one-pitch VS! Brilliant climb.
nickinscottishmountains - 26/Aug/03
Very fingery, very nice view over Dunkeld.
er - 26/Aug/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Ivy Buttress
2 Myopic's Corner HVS 5a * 18
3 Direct Finish to Myopic's Corner E2 5c *  
4 The Bashful Groove E2 5b 1
5 Psoriasis E3 6a ** 20
6 Sideline E6 6b * 6
7 Sideline Direct (The Sharp End) E6 7a * 3
8 Stolen Ivy E7 6c *  
9 Hot Tips E5 6c ** 13
10 Cold Tips
-
E5 6c *  
11 For Your Own Pleasure E4 6a  
12 Ivy Crack VS * 406
13 Poison Ivy (Without Arete Start) VS 5a * 143
14 Poison Ivy VS 5a ** 34
15 Poison Arete E3 5c 6
16 Consolation Corner VD * 313
  Upper Buttress
18 Left-Hand Edge HVS 4c 8
19 Left-Hand Crack E2 5c ** 94
20 Right-Hand Crack VS 5a * 46
21 Mottled Rib VD * 35
22 Hogg's Hindquarters VD ** 211
23 The Trap HVS 5b * 20
  Main Cliff - Left
25 Anon D * 125
26 Kestrel Crack S ** 770
27 Girdle Traverse VS 6
28 Kestrel Variations HVS * 39
29 Kestrel Crack Variation Finish II
-
VS 5a 47
30 Katie Morag's First Steps VS 4b * 99
31 Twisted Rib VD ** 341
32 Monopod E2 * 8
33 Beech Wall HS ** 594
Climb name Grade
34 Piker's Progress
-
VS 5a * 67
35 Piker's Variation
-
HVS 5a 8
36 Piker's Progress Direct HVS 5a * 186
37 The Way Through E2 5b ** 143
38 The Porker E3 5b 5
39 The Groove VS 5a *** 658
40 The Rut VS 5a *** 498
41 Wriggle VS 5a ** 287
42 Twilight E1 5b ** 155
43 Wriggle Direct HVS 5a 29
44 Scram '79 E4 5c * 6
45 Holly Tree Groove VD ** 686
46 Blast Off HVS 5b * 1
47 Recess Route VD * 204
48 The Creep HS * 128
49 Dynamo VS 5a * 98
50 Nicotine Rush E2 5b * 11
51 The Excuse E2 6a * 9
52 Cuticle Creek VS 4c * 60
53 Cuticle Crack S 4a ** 980
54 Turbo
-
E2 5c * 2
  Main Cliff - Right
56 Airy Arete VS 4c * 64
57 The Crescent
-
VD * 39
58 Hairy Gully M 66
59 Bollard Buttress MS 212
60 Bollard Buttress Direct S * 248
61 Springboard VS 4c ** 167
62 Springboard Direct E3 6a ** 26
63 Live Wire E5 6a * 7
64 Jumble D 6
65 Helter Skelter HVS 5a * 10
66 The Chute VS 5a * 139
Climb name Grade
67 Space Scuttle E1 5b * 25
68 Pop HVS 5a * 13
69 The End VS *** 565
70 Barefoot Beginning E2 ** 87
71 Terminal Buttress HS ** 231
72 Crash Test Dummies E3 5c * 33
73 The Duel E4 6a *  
74 The Duel Variation E4 6a ** 7
75 The Mound of Venus E2 5c * 7
76 Carpet Beater HVS 5a * 44
77 Eschebaum VD 14
78 Spirochaete VS 4b * 111
79 Gitanes VS 4c 2
  Unplaced
81 Unknown 7a 16
82 The Chopping Block
-
7b ** 116
83 Shimmy 7c * 4
84 Shimmy Sham 8a * 2
85 The Vibes
-
7c ** 22
86 Vibes Right hand finish 7c 1
87 Vibe Heads 7b+ *** 15
88 Bad Vibes 7c+ ** 10
89 Granola Head
-
7c * 31
90 Nameless? 6c+ 2
91 The Stumbling Block 7c+ *** 12
92 Granola Extension-Closed Project * summit 1
93 Cock Block * 7c+ *** 1
94 "S" Crack S 8
95 Un-named S 3
96 Twisted Rib (Direct Finish) VS 4c * 3
97 Closed project * summit  
98 Bollard Buttress VD *  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Martin McKenna - UKC