Climbs 88
Rocktype Schist
Altitude 202m a.s.l
Faces SW

Iain Howie on the crux of Twilight. © MightyStew

Crag features

Craig a Barns and Polney Crag offer some accessible one and two-pitch routes covering all grades, in a weather oasis that seems to stay dry even when the rest of Scotland is wet! However, tree cover can make Polney slow to dry and the rock is slippery when damp so care is required after rain.

The outlook is pleasing, making this a popular venue. There are some bolted routes located at the W end of Polney. Dedicated sport climbers should also head to Cave Crag (listed separately).

Safety note: The top of the crag has a fair amount of loose, steep ground and a slip can have (and has had) unfortunate consequences. A popular descent route is to ab down Hairy Gully - provided, of course, that the route is not being climbed. Slings and a maillon will generally be found in place round the most convenient tree at the top of the gully. In winter pine needles can cover many of the holds and ledges on the easier routes.

Note for logbooks: According to the SMC guidebook the Craig a Barns "area" covers three crags: Polney Crag, Lover's Leap and Cave Crags. Cave Crag (sp) is listed separately in the database so I've put the routes on Upper Cave Crag, Lower Cave Crag and Even Lower Cave Crag under that name. Lover's Leap only has a few routes and access is from the same point as Cave Crags, so I've included the Lover's Leap routes under Cave Crag.

Approach notes

Park at the side of road on the old A9 just outside of Dunkeld, past the old curling pond on the right. Polney Crag is five minutes uphill from here. (The road has now re-opened, so it is advisable to take a little care when crossing the road and manoeuvring in and out of parking spots as the bend in the road below the crag is fairly blind.)

Found a craghopper pullover fleece on the way up to the crag yesterday. Any one know the owner?
Paul Roberts - 29/Aug/15
The Groove (VS 5a) - a candidate for Scotland's best one-pitch VS! Brilliant climb.
nickinscottishmountains - 26/Aug/03
Very fingery, very nice view over Dunkeld.
er - 26/Aug/03
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Myopics Buttress 
2Myopic's Corner
HVS 5a *18
3Direct Finish to Myopic's CornerE2 5c * 
4Unknown7a 10
5The Chopping Block
7b **116
6Shimmy7c *3
7Shimmy Sham8a *2
8The Vibes
7c **27
9Vibes Right hand finish7c  
10Vibe Heads7b+ ***12
11Bad Vibes7c+ **10
12Granola Head
7c *29
13Nameless?6c+ 2
14The Stumbling Block *7c+ ***4
 Ivy Buttress 
16The Bashful Groove
E2 5b  
E3 6a *21
E5 6b *6
19Sideline Direct (The Sharp End)E6 7a *3
20Stolen Ivy
E7 6c * 
21Hot TipsE5 6c **13
22Cold Tips
E5 6c * 
23For Your Own Pleasure
E4 6a  
24Ivy CrackVS 4c *387
25Poison Ivy (Without Arete Start)VS 5a *141
26Poison IvyE1 5b *30
27Poison Arete
E3 5c 6
28Consolation CornerVD *306
 Upper Buttress 
30Left-Hand Edge
HVS 4c 8
31Left-Hand Crack
E2 5c **101
32Right-Hand Crack
VS 5a 46
33Mottled Rib
VD *35
34Hogg's HindquartersVD **200
35The Trap
HVS 5b 20
 Main Cliff, Left Section 
37AnonD 122
38Kestrel CrackS *710
39Kestrel Crack Variation Finish I
HVS 5a *38
40Kestrel Crack Variation Finish II
VS 5a 45
41Katie Morag's First StepsMVS 4b 97
42Twisted RibVD *334
E2 8
44Beech WallHS **547
45Piker's Progress
VS 5a *62
46Piker's Variation
HVS 5a 8
47Piker's Progress Direct
HVS 5a *181
48The Way Through
E2 5b **137
49The Porker
E3 5b 5
50The GrooveVS 5a ***628
51The Rut
VS 5a **466
VS 5a **281
E2 5c *156
54Wriggle Direct
HVS 5a 29
55Scram '79
E4 5c *6
56Holly Tree GrooveVD **648
57Blast Off
HVS 5b *1
58Recess RouteVD 198
59The CreepS *120
VS 5a *87
61Nicotine Rush
E2 5b *8
E2 5c *2
63The Excuse
E2 6a *7
64Cuticle CreekMVS 51
65Cuticle CrackS **917
66Airy Arete
VS 4c 60
67The Crescent
VD *39
68Hairy GullyM 64
 Main Cliff, Right Section 
70Bollard ButtressMS 206
71Bollard Buttress DirectHS *232
72SpringboardHVS 5a **159
73Springboard Direct VariationE3 5c **28
74Live Wire
E5 6a 7
D 3
76Helter Skelter
HVS 5a 10
77The ChuteVS 5a *132
78Space Scuttle
E1 5b *26
HVS 4c *14
80The EndVS 5a, 4c **545
81Barefoot/BeginningE2 5c **91
82Terminal ButtressHS *220
83Crash Test Dummies
E3 5c 31
84The Duel Variation
E4 6a **7
85The Mound of Venus
E2 5c 7
86Carpet Beater
HVS 5a *44
VD 14
VS 4b *111
VS 4c 2
90Girdle TraverseVS 4c 6
91"S" CrackS 8
92Un-namedS 3
93Twisted Rib (Direct Finish)VS 4c *2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Martin McKenna - UKC