UKC

Climbs 117
Rocktype Schist
Altitude 178m a.s.l
Faces SW

Iain Howie on the crux of Twilight. © MightyStew

Crag features

Craig a Barns and Polney Crag offer some accessible one and two-pitch routes covering all grades, in a weather oasis that seems to stay dry even when the rest of Scotland is wet! However, tree cover can make Polney slow to dry and the rock is slippery when damp so care is required after rain.

The outlook is pleasing, making this a popular venue. There are some bolted routes located at the W end of Polney on Myopics Buttress. Dedicated sport climbers should also head to Cave Crag (listed separately).

Safety note: The top of the crag has a fair amount of loose, steep ground and a slip can have (and has had) unfortunate consequences. A popular descent route is to ab down Hairy Gully - provided, of course, that the route is not being climbed. Slings and a maillon will generally be found in place round the most convenient tree at the top of the gully. In winter pine needles can cover many of the holds and ledges on the easier routes.

Note for logbooks: According to the SMC guidebook the Craig a Barns "area" covers three crags: Polney Crag, Lover's Leap and Cave Crags. Cave Crag (sp) is listed separately in the database so I've put the routes on Upper Cave Crag, Lower Cave Crag and Even Lower Cave Crag under that name. Lover's Leap only has a few routes and access is from the same point as Cave Crags, so I've included the Lover's Leap routes under Cave Crag.

Approach notes

Park on the verge at the side of road on the old A9 just outside of Dunkeld, past the old curling pond on the right. Polney Crag is five minutes uphill from here. It is advisable to take a little care when crossing the road and manoeuvring in and out of parking spots as the bend in the road below the crag is fairly blind and the road is fairly busy.

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Guidebooks

Found a craghopper pullover fleece on the way up to the crag yesterday. Any one know the owner?
Paul Roberts - 29/Aug/15
The Groove (VS 5a) - a candidate for Scotland's best one-pitch VS! Brilliant climb.
nickinscottishmountains - 26/Aug/03
Very fingery, very nice view over Dunkeld.
er - 26/Aug/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Myopics Buttress
2 Myopic's Corner HVS 5a * 18
3 Direct Finish to Myopic's Corner E2 5c *  
4 Phantom 7a 18
5 Patience 7b+ ** 1
6 The Stumbling Block 7c+ *** 12
7 The Chopping Block
-
7b ** 121
8 Shimmy 7c+ * 5
9 The Vibes 7c ** 25
10 Closed project 1 1 1
11 Vibes Right hand finish 7c *** 2
12 Granola Head 7c * 33
13 Headstrong 7c+ *** 3
14 Closed project 2 1  
15 Nameless? 7b 2
  Myopics Buttress Link ups
17 Cock Block 7c *** 1
18 Shimmy Sham 8a * 2
19 Vibe Heads 7b+ *** 18
20 Bad Vibes 7c+ ** 12
  Ivy Buttress
22 The Bashful Groove E2 5b 1
23 Psoriasis E3 6a ** 20
24 Sideline E6 6b * 6
25 Sideline Direct (The Sharp End) E6 7a * 3
26 Stolen Ivy E7 6c *  
27 Hot Tips E5 6c ** 13
28 Cold Tips
-
E5 6c *  
29 For Your Own Pleasure E4 6a  
30 Ivy Crack VS * 416
31 Poison Ivy (Without Arete Start) VS 5a * 145
32 Poison Ivy VS 5a ** 38
33 Poison Arete E3 5c 6
34 Consolation Corner VD * 325
Climb name Grade
  Upper Buttress
36 Left-Hand Edge HVS 4c 8
37 Left-Hand Crack E2 5c ** 97
38 Right-Hand Crack VS 5a * 47
39 "S" Crack S 8
40 Mottled Rib VD * 37
41 Hogg's Hindquarters VD ** 220
42 The Trap HVS 5b * 20
  Main Cliff - Left
44 Anon D * 134
45 Kestrel Crack S ** 805
46 Girdle Traverse VS 6
47 Kestrel Variations HVS * 40
48 Kestrel Crack Variation Finish II
-
VS 5a 48
49 Katie Morag's First Steps VS 4b * 103
50 Twisted Rib VD ** 347
51 Monopod E2 * 8
52 Beech Wall HS ** 623
53 Piker's Progress
-
VS 5a * 68
54 Piker's Variation
-
HVS 5a 9
55 Piker's Progress Direct HVS 5a * 198
56 The Way Through E2 5b ** 152
57 The Porker E3 5b 5
58 The Groove VS 5a *** 683
59 The Rut VS 5a *** 523
60 Wriggle VS 5a ** 298
61 Un-named S 3
62 Twilight E1 5b ** 157
63 Wriggle Direct HVS 5a 29
64 Scram '79 E4 5c * 6
65 Holly Tree Groove VD ** 706
66 Blast Off HVS 5b * 6
67 Recess Route VD * 209
68 The Creep HS * 134
Climb name Grade
69 Dynamo VS 5a * 102
70 Nicotine Rush E2 5b * 11
71 The Excuse E2 6a * 9
72 Cuticle Creek VS 4c * 62
73 Cuticle Crack S 4a ** 1007
74 Turbo
-
E2 5c * 2
  Main Cliff - Right
76 Airy Arete VS 4c * 64
77 The Crescent
-
VD * 39
78 Hairy Gully M 66
79 Bollard Buttress VD * 224
80 Bollard Buttress Direct S * 263
81 Springboard VS 4c ** 171
82 Springboard Direct E3 6a ** 26
83 Live Wire E5 6a * 7
84 Jumble D 10
85 Helter Skelter HVS 5a * 10
86 The Chute VS 5a * 147
87 Space Scuttle E1 5b * 25
88 Pop HVS 5a * 13
89 The End VS *** 595
90 Barefoot Beginning E2 ** 91
91 Terminal Buttress HS ** 245
92 Crash Test Dummies E3 5c * 36
93 The Duel E4 6a *  
94 The Duel Variation E4 6a ** 7
95 The Mound of Venus E2 5c * 7
96 Carpet Beater HVS 5a * 48
97 Eschebaum VD 14
98 Spirochaete VS 4b * 111
99 Gitanes VS 4c 2
  Unplaced
101 Twisted Rib (Direct Finish) VS 4c * 3

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