UKC

Climbs 117
Rocktype Schist
Altitude 178m a.s.l
Faces SW

Iain Howie on the crux of Twilight. © MightyStew

Crag features

Craig a Barns and Polney Crag offer some accessible one and two-pitch routes covering all grades, in a weather oasis that seems to stay dry even when the rest of Scotland is wet! However, tree cover can make Polney slow to dry and the rock is slippery when damp so care is required after rain.

The outlook is pleasing, making this a popular venue. There are some bolted routes located at the W end of Polney on Myopics Buttress. Dedicated sport climbers should also head to Cave Crag (listed separately).

Safety note: The top of the crag has a fair amount of loose, steep ground and a slip can have (and has had) unfortunate consequences. A popular descent route is to ab down Hairy Gully - provided, of course, that the route is not being climbed. Slings and a maillon will generally be found in place round the most convenient tree at the top of the gully. In winter pine needles can cover many of the holds and ledges on the easier routes.

Note for logbooks: According to the SMC guidebook the Craig a Barns "area" covers three crags: Polney Crag, Lover's Leap and Cave Crags. Cave Crag (sp) is listed separately in the database so I've put the routes on Upper Cave Crag, Lower Cave Crag and Even Lower Cave Crag under that name. Lover's Leap only has a few routes and access is from the same point as Cave Crags, so I've included the Lover's Leap routes under Cave Crag.

Approach notes

Park on the verge at the side of road on the old A9 just outside of Dunkeld, past the old curling pond on the right. Polney Crag is five minutes uphill from here. It is advisable to take a little care when crossing the road and manoeuvring in and out of parking spots as the bend in the road below the crag is fairly blind and the road is fairly busy.

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Guidebooks

Found a craghopper pullover fleece on the way up to the crag yesterday. Any one know the owner?
Paul Roberts - 29/Aug/15
The Groove (VS 5a) - a candidate for Scotland's best one-pitch VS! Brilliant climb.
nickinscottishmountains - 26/Aug/03
Very fingery, very nice view over Dunkeld.
er - 26/Aug/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Myopics Buttress
2 Myopic's Corner HVS 5a * 18
3 Direct Finish to Myopic's Corner E2 5c * 1
4 Phantom 7a 19
5 Patience 7b+ ** 5
6 The Stumbling Block 7c+ *** 12
7 The Chopping Block
-
7b ** 124
8 Shimmy 7c+ * 5
9 The Vibes 7c ** 26
10 Vibes Right hand finish 7c *** 3
11 Postilion Age 7c ** 3
12 Granola Head 7c * 33
13 Headstrong 7c+ *** 3
14 Closed project 2 8a  
15 Closed Project 3 7c+ 1
16 Nameless? 7b 2
  Myopics Buttress Link ups
18 Cock Block 7c *** 1
19 Shimmy Sham 8a * 2
20 Vibe Heads 7b+ *** 18
21 Bad Vibes 7c+ ** 13
  Ivy Buttress
23 The Bashful Groove E2 5b 1
24 Psoriasis E3 6a ** 20
25 Sideline E6 6b * 6
26 Sideline Direct (The Sharp End) E6 7a * 3
27 Stolen Ivy E7 6c *  
28 Hot Tips E5 6c ** 13
29 Cold Tips
-
E5 6c *  
30 For Your Own Pleasure E4 6a  
31 Ivy Crack VS * 433
32 Poison Ivy (Without Arete Start) VS 5a * 147
33 Poison Ivy VS 5a ** 39
34 Poison Arete E3 5c 6
Climb name Grade
35 Consolation Corner VD * 335
  Upper Buttress
37 Left-Hand Edge HVS 4c 8
38 Left-Hand Crack E2 5c ** 98
39 Right-Hand Crack VS 5a * 48
40 "S" Crack S 8
41 Mottled Rib VD * 39
42 Hogg's Hindquarters VD ** 226
43 The Trap HVS 5b * 20
  Main Cliff - Left
45 Anon D * 139
46 Kestrel Crack S ** 816
47 Girdle Traverse VS 6
48 Kestrel Variations HVS * 41
49 Kestrel Crack Variation Finish II
-
VS 5a 48
50 Katie Morag's First Steps VS 4b * 105
51 Twisted Rib VD ** 355
52 Monopod E2 * 8
53 Beech Wall HS ** 645
54 Piker's Progress
-
VS 5a * 68
55 Piker's Variation
-
HVS 5a 9
56 Piker's Progress Direct HVS 5a * 204
57 The Way Through E2 5b ** 156
58 The Porker E3 5b 5
59 The Groove VS 5a *** 699
60 The Rut VS 5a *** 538
61 Wriggle VS 5a ** 312
62 Un-named S 3
63 Twilight E1 5b ** 161
64 Wriggle Direct HVS 5a 29
65 Scram '79 E4 5c * 6
66 Holly Tree Groove VD ** 723
67 Blast Off HVS 5b * 6
68 Recess Route VD * 211
Climb name Grade
69 The Creep HS * 136
70 Dynamo VS 5a * 104
71 Nicotine Rush E2 5b * 11
72 The Excuse E2 6a * 9
73 Cuticle Creek VS 4c * 64
74 Cuticle Crack S 4a ** 1024
75 Turbo
-
E2 5c * 2
  Main Cliff - Right
77 Airy Arete VS 4c * 64
78 The Crescent
-
VD * 39
79 Hairy Gully M 67
80 Bollard Buttress VD * 226
81 Bollard Buttress Direct S * 267
82 Springboard VS 4c ** 177
83 Springboard Direct E3 6a ** 26
84 Live Wire E5 6a * 8
85 Jumble D 10
86 Helter Skelter HVS 5a * 10
87 The Chute VS 5a * 147
88 Space Scuttle E1 5b * 25
89 Pop HVS 5a * 13
90 The End VS *** 615
91 Barefoot Beginning E2 ** 91
92 Terminal Buttress HS ** 251
93 Crash Test Dummies E3 5c * 36
94 The Duel E4 6a *  
95 The Duel Variation E4 6a ** 7
96 The Mound of Venus E2 5c * 7
97 Carpet Beater HVS 5a * 48
98 Eschebaum VD 14
99 Spirochaete VS 4b * 113
100 Gitanes VS 4c 2
  Unplaced
102 Twisted Rib (Direct Finish) VS 4c * 3

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