Climbs 145
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 580m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Joshua Jardine on the Black Crag favourite Glass Slipper (E2) (from the Lake District Climbs Rockfax). © Mike Hutton

Crag features

Short routes on sound rough rock over a good grade range. High on the fell but with an easy approach and dries quickly. Best routes are Yellow fever(E2), First Touch(E1), Glass Slipper(E2), Anns Agony(HVS), Skye Ridge(VD).

Needle Arete is an excellent E3 6a.

A number of the routes have thought provoking levels of protection.

A fantastic venue for late/early season, catching any sun that's going.

Approach notes

Park at the summit of Wrynose Pass by the Three Shire Stone. Twenty minutes steady uphill walk.

Guidebooks

Lakes Bouldering

The first dedicated bouldering guidebook to the Lake District, spanning a range of areas largely in the National Park and all north and west of the M6 junction 36. The guide is intended to be useful to the visiting climber looking for a day or evening's light bouldering just as much as the hard-core local with decent coverage for the V1 and V9 boulderer alike.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Lake District Rock (2015)
Langdale (2013)

Out of print:
Many of the star ratings and some of the grades need updating in accordance with the new guide.
Fiend - 18/May/15
Fantastic on a clear winters day. I went at the end of jan '06 and it was shorts + t shirt weather. Dry as a bone and no wind with a 15 min walk in. The sun works its way round the crag through the day so you can stay warm all day. Only short but quality climbing on great rock though the E numbers seemed a serious proposition with little gear.
biscuit - 01/Feb/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Routes
  West Face
3 Dave's Arete E1 5c * 94
4 Pocket Way E5 6a ** 61
5 Pocket Crack E3 6a ** 50
6 Sleep on my Pillow E1 5b * 169
7 Nod Off S 4b * 219
8 Noddy HVS 5b * 58
9 Three VS 4c 231
10 Blind VS 4c * 218
11 Mice VS 4c * 351
12 The Real World E5 6a * 18
13 Slipshod HVS 5a ** 419
14 Yellow Fever E2 5b *** 280
15 Yellow Peril E5 6b * 2
16 Artful Dodger E4 6a/b ** 4
17 The First Touch E1 5b ** 452
18 Hold On S 4b * 219
19 Stop Showing Off HVS 5a * 159
20 Mind of No Fixed Abode E1 5a * 84
21 The Last Corner HVS 4c 40
22 The Prow HVS 5a 108
  South Face
24 Rope Up E2 6b ** 45
25 The Needle VD ** 343
26 Needle Arete E3 5c ** 143
27 Hang the Gallows High E6 6b ** 9
28 Monkey the Needle HVS 5a * 25
29 Little Acorns D * 114
30 Scrambler's Corner M 74
31 Skye Ridge VD * 243
Climb name Grade
32 Man HS 4b 63
33 The HS 4b 39
34 Guns S 4a 56
35 Billy Bunter VS 4c * 151
36 Bilko E4 6a * 5
37 Doberman E3 6a * 24
38 Just a Minute VS 4c 33
  Glass Slipper Buttress
40 Not So Jolly D * 66
41 Jolly Roger VS 4b * 487
42 Jolly Corner D 155
43 Fun Run HS 4b * 188
44 Second Generation E4 5c 3
45 Ann's Agony HVS 5b ** 340
46 Glass Slipper E2 5b *** 650
47 Pumpkin Corner VD * 78
48 Sharp as Glass S 4a ** 510
49 Glass Clogs HS 4b * 298
50 Tim VS 4c 39
51 Misty VS 4b 32
  Boulder Problems
  Black Crag Boulders
  Potato Boulder
55 Problem 1 V2 12
56 Problem 2 V2 9
57 Problem 3 V2 * 9
58 Potato
-
V5 * 1
59 Problem 5 V0+ * 9
60 Problem 6 V0 8
  North West Boulders
62 Problem 7 V0- 4c 4
Climb name Grade
63 Problem 8 V0 5a * 3
64 Problem 9 V0+ 2
  Fin Rock and Big Block
66 Fin Rock
-
V1 5c 3
67 Big Block
-
V0- 4c 2
  Sail Boulder, High Slab and The Coffin
69 Problem 12 V1 7
70 Sail
-
V0+ 5b * 6
71 Problem 14 V0- 5
72 High Slab
-
V0- 4c ** 13
73 Coffin
-
V2 6a * 6
74 Left Wall V4  
  Diamond and Pullover
76 Diamond
-
V1 5c * 4
77 The Prow
-
V0 5a 6
78 Pullover
-
V3 10
  Rope Up Wall
80 Prow Right
-
V0- 4c * 9
81 Rope Up
-
V4 *** 17
  South East Boulders
83 Lower Boulder Traverse
-
V2 5c *  
84 Higher Boulder Traverse
-
V1 5c * 1
  New/Unconfirmed routes
86 Vlad the Inhaler
-
HS 4b *** 2
87 Crack On VS 4b ** 4
88 In Absentia E1 5b ** 2
89 True Grit HVS 5a ** 1
90 Gubbins S 4a ** 1
91 An Evening With Friends
-
E1 5c * 44
92 Peaches E5 6b * 2
93 Big Ears * E2 5c 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer tomhull