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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 15
Rocktype Dolerite
Altitude 77m a.s.l
Faces SW

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start directly under the G at the top of the climb and go straight up to the G have fun :) © darunniff

Crag features

The main wall is a west facing slab with a few lines, the quarry entrance also features an interesting pinnacle with two climbs on.

Bolt belays above the west wall and stake belays on the pinnacle.

Feels slightly esoteric as absolutely no-one goes there, quality of the rock is sturdy in all but very few places (check for dodgey flakes occasionally) and offers plenty of footholds and excellent friction. Graffitied walls also offer that 'inner-city' crag feel.

Enough climbing here for a good half day of trad and also features Corbie's Craig and Agassiz Rock nearby.

Approach notes

No access issues so far. From the top of Blackford Hill where the Royal Observatory Car park is, head down the hill and you could walk straight over the quarry. However, it might be best to find a better descent by walking around either side of the quarry. The best approach is via Agassiz Rock.

Can also park at the end of Blackford Glen Road which is closer but there is more risk of having your car broken into.

Guidebooks

The quarry is booked on Wednesday evenings during the summer by an archery club. They were firing from between Quarry Pinnacle and the main wall towards the back of the quarry leaving Quarry Pinnacle as the only climbable route (although even this is behind their cordon).
Katherine Ross - 17/Jul/17
Hi all, I just want to warn you that the walls are filled with broken glass since some idiots are partying there and throwing bottles to the wall... I just cut my finger today there.
asztisanyi - 02/Sep/16
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Quarry Pinnacle D * 167
2 Komik Kuts D 89
3 Route 1 D 134
4 Route 1.5 VS 4b * 16
5 Highball 2 V0+ 12
Climb name Grade
6 Route 2 VD 221
7 Route 3 HS 4b 199
8 Route 4 HVS 4c 77
9 G four point five HS 4b * 39
10 Lukes Gash VS 4c 22
Climb name Grade
11 Pete's Crack VD 57
12 Gingeness (route 5) HVS 4b * 47
13 Bush Whaker! (traverse) V0+ 4
14 Fandango D 11

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