Climbs 35
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 6m a.s.l
Faces SE

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the first pitch © steve2006

Crag features

Granite sea cliff on the island of St Mary's (Scilly Isles). The head offers some adventurous climbing on mostly clean and sound rock with a great vista over the island of St. Agnes. The headland also has a wealth of underdeveloped boundering amongst the rocks adjacent to the lighthouse and on the surrounding cliffs. 

Worthwhile routes include Excalibur (VS 4c) and Fear of Furnace (E2 5c). 

Many of the routes may well have only seen a handfull of ascent so grades should be treated with caution. 

Approach notes

From the hospital in Hugh Town follow the track southeastwards past Peninnis Farm and through a gate to Peninnis Head Lighthouse. The main crag is situated about 150m to the south west by a few huge granite blocks.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Inner Head
2 The Alien E4 6a  
3 Rising Tide HS 4a 2
4 Robin Bastard E1 5c 2
5 Trident HS 4b  
6 Curving Crack HVS 5a  
7 Un-Named Crack M * 2
8 slab and flake S * 2
  The Monk's Cowl - North Face
10 Zest HS 4b 2
11 Gone Fishing VS 4c 3
12 Peninnis Chimbley S 4a 1
13 Rock Hard Peninnis E4 6b ***  
14 Sean's Cleft HVS 5a  
Climb name Grade
15 Time and Motion E4 6a ** 1
16 Fear of the Furnace E2 5c ** 1
  The Monk's Cowl - South Face
18 Sunk Without Trace E3 6a ** 1
19 Island Life E2 5c  
20 Britannia VS 5a * 2
21 Excalibur VS 4c ** 6
22 Neptune S 4a * 2
23 Rigs D 3
24 Creepy Crawly VD 1
  The Outer Head
26 Caravan Convert HVS 5c 2
27 Catch a Pigeon E3 6a 2
28 Fantasy Island E3 6a 2
Climb name Grade
  Pulpit Rock
30 More Tea Vicar HS 4b 2
31 Opium of the People HVS 5a 2
32 Holy Crack HVS 5a 2
  Kettles and Pans Bouldering
34 Scilly Sausage f4+ 5a 1
35 Scilly Billy f5+ 5c * 1
36 Scillynoceros f5 5b * 1
37 Cheek of the Devil f5+ 2
38 Jelly Lips f5+ 2
39 Dennis Peninnis f6B * 2
40 Peg Leg f7A ** 1
41 Matter Do Ee? f5+ 2

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