Climbs 88
Rocktype Slate
Altitude 170m a.s.l
Faces W

Chris Dale, Mallice in wonderland E3 5c, Hodge Close Quarry © jimkeeley

Crag features

Superb slate climbing, mainly Extremes - a mixture of trad and sport routes. Beware the runouts on some of the 'sport' routes! Best routes include First Night Nerves(E5), Stage Fright(E6), Ten Years After(E4), Wicked Willie(E5), Great Expectations(E5), Limited Edition(E4), Behind the Lines(HVS), Malice in Wonderland(E4).

Approach notes

No access restrictions. The quarry has a tendency to collapse at fairly regular intervals so routes may change! Roadside.

Guidebooks

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Midgebite 6c 1
2 Calling the Shots E4 6b ** 7
3 Skyline E3 6a 7
4 Direct Start To Skyline E3 6b 1
5 Face the Times E4 6a 9
6 Face the Music E4 6a * 7
7 Face Life 7b 1
8 Dog Fight at Virgin Massacre Creek E6 6c **  
9 Leicester Tit Lab E2 5b  
10 Cafe Boys do their Thong E1 5b 73
11 Enoc 6b  
12 ???????????? E3 6a+ 2
13 !!!!!!!!!!!!!! E3 6a?  
14 The Fang E3 6a 13
15 Mowing the Lawn 7a * 28
16 Oiling the Lawnmower E1 5b * 129
17 Chance Encounter VS 4b 4
18 Bay of Pigs
-
E4 6a *  
19 Pigs Against the Wall E7 6b *  
20 Sport for all
-
4a 80
21 Big Gym
-
5c 110
22 Broken Pelvis 6a 44
23 Pioneer meets his match
-
E1 5c 23
24 Cellar Dwellers
-
6b+ * 45
25 Northumbrian VS 7a+ * 34
26 OAP's Sport Climb Too
-
5c 68
27 Sideshow E2 5b 14
28 Carpe Diem 7a+ ** 16
29 Joie De Vivre 6b+ ** 31
30 Live Theatre E2 5c 4
31 Stiff Little Fingers E3 5c 26
32 Second Coming E4 6a ** 15
33 First NIght Nerves E5 6b *** 7
34 The Main Event
-
E5 6a * 9
35 The Idaho Connection Wave E5 6c *  
36 Chestnut Mare E5 6b *  
37 First Footing
-
VS 4b 3
38 The Plunger
-
E3 6a * 17
39 Creative Contortions E6 6b *  
40 Contorted Creations
-
E5 6b *  
41 Titbits
-
E2 5c  
42 Movement
-
E3 6a  
43 Stage Fright
-
E6 6b *** 2
44 Command Performance
-
E6 6b ** 2
45 The Final Act
-
E6 6b *  
46 Ten Years After E4 5c *** 38
47 Wicked Willie E5 6b *** 10
48 Wings
-
E4 5c 7
49 Sky E2 5c ** 99
50 Great Expectations
-
E5 6c *** 2
51 Hodgetastic E3 6a 6
52 Way of the Wyrd E6 6b 1
53 Life in the Fast Lane
-
E5 6b ** 7
54 Amphibian
-
E3 6a 5
55 The Entertainer
-
E2 5c * 4
56 Return to Year Zero
-
E4 6b  
57 Power Transmission
-
E5 6c *  
58 Big Dipper
-
E1 5b ** 85
59 Big Dipper/Mirrormere E2 5b *** 76
60 Arm and Hammer Slab E3 6a 2
61 Beef Jerky E5 6c *  
62 Limited Edition E4 6a *** 69
63 Nocturnal Emissions
-
E5 7a *  
64 Stinky Dinks E2 6b * 10
65 Mirrormere
-
E2 5b * 33
66 Viennese Oyster
-
E4 6b * 11
67 Blank Expression
-
E5 6a * 7
68 Behind the Lines
-
HVS 5a *** 288
69 Curtain Call E5 6b * 17
70 Malice in Wonderland E3 5c *** 83
71 Bright Eyes n' Blue
-
E4 6a *  
72 Easy Rider
-
HVS 5b * 10
73 Timeless Flight
-
E5 6b * 4
74 Trivia
-
HVS 5a 1
75 Close Call
-
E4 6a * 2
76 Through the Looking Glass
-
E2 5c ** 77
77 Shattered Image
-
E4 6b * 2
78 Mirror Image
-
E5 6c * 1
79 Dan Dare
-
VS 4c 5
80 Sasquatch HVS 5a * 113
81 The Cleaver
-
E4 6a * 8
82 Fatal Attraction
-
E5 6c *  
83 Hoof Hearted
-
E4 6b * 4
84 Beaver Patrol
-
E4 6c * 1
85 Mad Alice E3 5c * 59
86 Secret Affair
-
E1 7
87 Splashdown
-
6b+ * 6
88 The Lobsters' Quadrille * 6a 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Jonathan Lagoe - UKC