Climbs 122
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 1637m a.s.l
Unknown climber on The Gizzard, one of the classics in The Raven's Nest. © Sophie C Davignon
Carrot Creek is a fantastic sport climbing venue in Banff National Park. It offers a wide range of climbing from the upper end of intermediate through to 5.14 courtesy of one Mr Megos.
The quality of routes here is, on the whole, excellent with both fantastic rock quality and exceptional climbing. The character tends to be overhanging, pumpy, and adventurous.
The vast majority of routes here, especially on Raven's Nest, would be deserving of 2 or 3 stars in the British system - the local guides do not star the routes to discourage overuse of the classics. The routes with known classic status have been given 3 stars (deservedly) on this page - strongly consider checking out the lines in person however, as most other routes will be more than deserving of 3 stars as well.
Please read the approach notes and access issues sections carefully.
Parking:
The car park is located 1.5km inside Banff National Park when driving North West from the gates near Canmore. If approaching from the Banff side you need to drive to the Canmore entrance gates and turn around to drive back towards Banff as there is no access to the car park when driving South East. The carpark is not signposted or even particularly visible until you are right on-top of it - it is the unmarked paved road turning right off the main highway, 1.5km from the park entrance.
Approach:
The approach to the start of the canyon takes around 45 minutes, and involves crossing the river itself multiple times, there are usually stepping stones or felled trees that can be used to cross - there is no exact route, and some exploration may be required the first time approaching.
Initially head through the gate at the car park - close the gate behind you! You initially follow an overgrown Landrover track through a grassy field. This leads to a short wooded area which in turn enters a large open de-forested area. Continue along the track which follows the left side of the clearing until you reach trees again (approx. 20 minutes walking to here). A small trail leads down a hill, through trees, to the creek. Follow the creek upriver, crossing at multiple points, to eventually arrive at the start of the canyon which is unmistakable.
The first walls you will reach are Westside and Entrance Wall on the left and right (facing up-river) respectively. It takes approx. 45 minutes to reach here if you know the way, it may take longer on the first approach if the route up the creek requires some trial and error.
Continue up river to reach the other walls: Graffiti Wall and Sun City are next on the left, followed by the main attraction: Raven's Nest Buttress on the right - again unmistakable.
Past this are Small Wall then Wall of Jericho on the right; Frying Pan and The Embankment on the left; then finally The Cave and Summer in Siam on the left and right respectively.
Access is currently discouraged but not restricted - it is located within the Fairholme Range Environmental Sensitivity Site. This was introduced in order to protect wildlife in the area. Access is not illegal, but it is requested by Parks Canada that the area is not disturbed. As a result local traffic to this crag has significantly reduced and you are likely to find yourself the only party climbing. If you decide to enter the area, you must treat it with the respect you would any environmentally sensitive zone - no dogs, no food or litter left behind, no damage to the flora or fauna.
As for all areas within Banff National Park and wild Canada in general, bears and other wildlife are a significant risk. Bear bells and awareness of your surroundings are a minimum - but strongly consider taking bear spray which can be used as a last resort - if you do encounter a bear, whether spray has been required or not, this should mark the end of your climbing day and you should return to the car park. Read up on how to avoid/safely negotation bear encounters before exploring anywhere wild in Banff National Park, and Canada in general.
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