UKC

Climbs 78
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 486m a.s.l
Faces all

Mark Glaister on Siete (6b) at Túron East Face © Alan James

Crag features

The massive slabby limestone sheets of Túron West are some of the region's most distinctive formations and provide many superb climbs in the lower-to-mid grades. The crags are only a short drive away from El Chorro, close to the picturesque Andalucían village of Ardales, and the environment is in complete contrast to The Gorge being more open, rural and tranquil. The West Buttresses are by far and away the most popular areas having the best climbs, although the more intimidating East Buttress is worth a look especially for those looking for morning shade or some harder climbs.

Approach notes

From El Chorro, cross the dam, turn right and drive up the windy road for about 5km to a T-junction. Turn left here and continue about another 5km to Ardales. Drive into the village on the main road, up a hill and into a small open square in the centre. Turn right and immediately pick up a sign for El Burgo. This takes you left into a narrow street and out of the village and into the hills. Follow the road for 6.5km until the crags come into view. Ardales is in the process of having a small ring-road built that will mean that it will not be necessary to go into the centre of the town, just follow signs for 'El Burgo' which leads down a road past the crags.

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Guidebooks

Spain : El Chorro

A guidebook to the superb climbing around the village of El Chorro and the famous gorge. Great coverage of the sport climbing on the magnificent crags above the village and in the central gorge. Also includes a number of excellent outlying areas.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Andalucia 2 Edition (2007)
Andalucia (2005)

Out of print:
Roads all clear..
wolf.leeb - 21/Sep/13
Great slab climbing in a really tranquil place. Note that if travelling on to or planning to come through El Burgo, the road from Ardales is closed at El Burgo. There is a concrete wall across the road, presumably because the bridge over the river into the village is unsafe. (30/01/12)
rockcat - 30/Jan/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Tajos de la Laja
2 Dónde están mis amigos 6c 2
3 Potage de lentejas 6c+ 1
4 Kavernicola 6c ** 2
5 Gualtrapidos sin fronteras 7a+ *** 5
6 Bolleré 6b+ ** 26
7 Chupaté ésa Teresa 6b ** 86
8 Teardrop 7a ** 13
9 La grieta de tu nieta 6b ** 36
10 El payaso decotador 7a * 8
11 La de paraor 6c+ * 3
12 La de Maria 6c+ ** 12
13 La Libertad De Expansion 6a+ * 4
14 Apolonio 7b+ ** 8
15 Los malos también lloran 7a+ *** 33
16 Quasimodo 6c ** 68
17 Suspiros nostálgicos 6a+ * 15
18 Julay lama 5c *** 229
19 Floja y pendulona 5c *** 258
20 Coxy's Climb 6a+ ** 206
21 High Bolt 1 5b ** 75
22 High Bolt 2 6b+ * 79
23 High Bolt 3 5c *** 78
24 High Bolt 4 * 6a+ ** 8
25 Acosa y derribo 6a ** 58
26 La prima 5a 2
27 Sombra gris 6b ** 30
28 Diedro polvarea 6a ** 18
Climb name Grade
29 Anna 6a+ 11
30 Sector Olletas 5c * 48
31 Pitiflan exprés 6a ** 44
32 La raja del siesso 7a 8
33 Manteca colorá 6b+ ** 11
34 Como un burro amarao 6c * 1
35 Paco micro y su niva 6b * 11
36 Lo que no puede sar 7a+ ** 14
37 Condón Goretex 7b+ *  
38 Me cago en la benemérita 6c 2
39 Almoraju 6a+ * 4
40 Agustitu 6c * 3
41 Calostro 7a  
42 Sabor salado 6b+ 1
  Cara Oeste
44 Uno 6a ** 3
45 Dos 6b+ ** 6
46 Tres 6a ** 7
47 Cuatro 5c ** 4
48 Cinco 6b+ ** 2
49 Seis 7a+ ** 5
50 Siete 6b *** 3
51 Ocho 6c **  
  Taja Bermejo
53 Cabrero blanco
-
6a+ * 13
54 Placa la cascabulla
-
6a+ * 13
55 La condena
-
7a * 1
56 Ascenso al reino de los ciegos
-
6c ** 3
Climb name Grade
57 Banana melosa
-
6c * 5
58 Estrella del sur
-
7b * 10
59 Estrella del sur extension * 7b+ *** 1
60 Si te quieres comer un higo
-
5c 4
61 Ensancha el alma
-
6b+ * 3
62 Al filo del escualo
-
6a+ * 9
63 Mamon no comas aleta de tiburón
-
5c * 12
64 El dia de la bestia
-
7c+ *** 2
65 Newton's Law
-
8a  
66 Pato palo
-
6a+ 6
67 Vía del topo
-
6a 20
68 Ultima del año
-
5c * 19
69 Todo tiene su fin
-
8a *** 1
70 Vía del maki
-
6c+ * 13
71 Mission Impossible
-
8a **  
72 The New Right
-
8a  
73 Cuerpo jodio
-
7a+ * 1
74 Mustang
-
7b *  
75 Que cojones el del palo
-
7c *  
  Precise Location Unknown
77 Guevos con bechamel
-
5c 3
78 Vestigios
-
5a 4
79 Route 7 * 6a+ * 1
80 Route 5 * 6c * 1
81 Si te quieres comer un higo extension * 6c *** 1
82 La tarde de la bestia * 7b+ *** 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Mark Glaister - Assistant Editor