Climbs 77
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 445m a.s.l
Faces all

Turon, West Buttress. © Zoe Cockburn

Crag features

The massive slabby limestone sheets of Túron West are some of the region's most distinctive formations and provide many superb climbs in the lower-to-mid grades. The crags are only a short drive away from El Chorro, close to the picturesque Andalucían village of Ardales, and the environment is in complete contrast to The Gorge being more open, rural and tranquil. The West Buttresses are by far and away the most popular areas having the best climbs, although the more intimidating East Buttress is worth a look especially for those looking for morning shade or some harder climbs.

Approach notes

From El Chorro, cross the dam, turn right and drive up the windy road for about 5km to a T-junction. Turn left here and continue about another 5km to Ardales. Drive into the village on the main road, up a hill and into a small open square in the centre. Turn right and immediately pick up a sign for El Burgo. This takes you left into a narrow street and out of the village and into the hills. Follow the road for 6.5km until the crags come into view. Ardales is in the process of having a small ring-road built that will mean that it will not be necessary to go into the centre of the town, just follow signs for 'El Burgo' which leads down a road past the crags.

Guidebooks

El Chorro

A full colour guidebook dedicated the area around El Chorro in Andalusia in Spain. Covering the famous Gorge and all the fine crags near the village, plus many superb outlying areas. The book is in the modern Rockfax style with full colour photo topos, descriptions, symbols and maps, plus loads of excellent action shots.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Andalucia (2005)

Out of print:
Roads all clear..
wolf.leeb - 21/Sep/13
Great slab climbing in a really tranquil place. Note that if travelling on to or planning to come through El Burgo, the road from Ardales is closed at El Burgo. There is a concrete wall across the road, presumably because the bridge over the river into the village is unsafe. (30/01/12)
rockcat - 30/Jan/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  West Buttress
2 Dónde están mis amigos 6c 1
3 Potage de lentejas 6c+ 1
4 Kavernicola 6c * 2
5 Gualtrapidos sin fronteras 7a+ * 4
6 Bolleré 6b+ ** 26
7 Chupaté ésa Teresa 6b ** 77
8 Teardrop 7a * 13
9 La grieta de tu nieta 6b * 32
10 El payaso decotador 7a 7
11 La de paraor 6c * 2
12 La de Maria 6c * 11
13 Apolonio 7b+ ** 5
14 Los malos también lloran 7a+ ** 25
15 Quasimodo 6c ** 59
16 La Libertad De Expansion 6a+ 4
17 Suspiros nostálgicos 6a+ * 14
18 Julay lama 5c *** 190
19 Floja y pendulona 5c *** 212
20 Coxy's Climb 6a+ ** 173
21 High Bolt 1 6b+ ** 66
22 High Bolt 2 6b+ ** 70
23 High Bolt 3 6b+ ** 67
24 High Bolt 4 * 6a+ ** 7
25 Acosa y derribo 6a * 51
26 La prima 5a 2
27 Sombra gris 6b * 28
28 Diedro polvarea 6a * 15
29 Anna 6a+ 11
30 Sector Olletas 5c * 44
31 Pitiflan exprés 6a+ * 39
32 La raja del siesso 7a 8
33 Manteca colorá 6b+ * 8
34 Como un burro amarao 6c * 1
35 Paco micro y su niva 6a+ * 11
36 Lo que no puede sar 7a+ * 12
37 Condón Goretex 7b+ *  
38 Me cago en la benemérita 6c 2
39 Almoraju 6a+ * 4
40 Agustitu 6c * 3
41 Calostro 7a  
42 Sabor salado 6b+ 1
  East Buttress
44 Cabrero blanco 6a+ * 10
45 Placa la cascabulla 6a+ * 11
46 La condena 7a * 1
47 Ascenso al reino de los ciegos 6c ** 3
48 Banana melosa 6c * 5
49 Estrella del sur 7b * 9
50 Si te quieres comer un higo 5c 3
51 Ensancha el alma 6b+ * 2
52 Al filo del escualo 6a+ * 9
53 Mamon no comas aleta de tiburón 5c * 10
54 El dia de la bestia 7c+ *** 2
55 Newton's Law 8a  
56 Pato palo 6a+ 5
57 Vía del topo 6a 18
58 Ultima del año 5c * 17
59 Todo tiene su fin 8a *** 1
60 Vía del maki 6c+ * 9
61 Mission Impossible 8a **  
62 The New Right 8a  
63 Cuerpo jodio 7a+ * 1
64 Mustang 7b *  
65 Que cojones el del palo 7c *  
  Precise Location Unknown
67 Guevos con bechamel
-
5c 3
68 Vestigios
-
5a 4
69 Route 7 * 6a+ * 1
70 Route 5 * 6c * 1
71 West Buttress. West Face. Climb 1 * 6a ** 2
72 West Buttress. West Face. Climb 2 * 6b+ ** 6
73 West Buttress. West Face. Climb 3 * 6a ** 7
74 West Buttress. West Face. Climb 4 * 5c * 4
75 West Buttress. West Face. Climb 5 * 6b ** 2
76 West Buttress. West Face. Climb 6 * 7a+ *** 3
77 West Buttress. West Face. Climb 7 * 6b *** 2
78 West Buttress. West Face. Climb 8 *
-
6c  
79 Estrella del sur extension * 7b+ *** 1
80 Si te quieres comer un higo extension * 6c *** 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Mark Glaister - Assistant Editor