Climbs 70
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 30m a.s.l
Faces N

The face of a champion! © tomrainbow

Crag features

Interesting routes up to 70ft. Both the sea cliff (non-tidal boulder beach) and quarries are cold but dry in the winter, cool in summer. Natural protection usually involves threads and/or flakes. There are an increasing number of sports routes in the quarries, some of which (the main wall of Sugar Mountain in particular) stay dry in all but the heaviest rain...although your belayer may not!

*** SCHEDULE 1 BIRD BREEDING IN BLOODHOUND QUARRY MARCH TO AUGUST...in addition, avoid the routes Raor Like Sushi and Warpath for the time being as the peregrine nest is immediately above this wall. There are lots of other options!***

 

Approach notes

Take the A3022 twds Brixham past a white weatherboard house on the R. Take the first L turn (signposted Fishcombe Cove). 0.5mi further, after a one-way section, is a car park on the L.
Take the footpath past holiday chalets to a woody hillside, and follow it RW through the trees to the shingle beach - Fishcombe Cove. The crags lie on the far side of its grassy shoulder.

The sea cliffs are reached directly from the shoulder via a faint path.

The first quarry is reached by following the main path up to where it meets the fence at the edge of a golf course then following the fence for 100yds until a small path leads down to a scramble into the quarry.

While it is possible to traverse the base of the quarries with reasonable ease, by far the best approach to Sugar Mountain (and Supercalorific Quarry) is to continue along the coastpath for about 400m. The path makes an obvious climb at this point (tree routes on the L hand side of the path), then flattens out. As you start to descend a couple of paths lead off R into the trees. These lead to the top of Sugar Mountain. Less than 20m beyond, a vague path leads R along a lumpy shoulder to a point where a straightforward descent can be made to the base of the cliff. If you see a tree with an obvious knot in it facing you, you have gone too far...the path to the descent is just behind you!

From the base of Sugar Mountain, it is easy to walk to the bottom of the quarry and round into the Supercalorific quarry.

Much better and more interesting climbing than it looks.
ferdia - 18/Jan/15
Project now completed - Stan Coliform (probably the best route at Sugar Mountain). Just one more line left (and then the 73 link ups!). Unfortunately the side wall is now seeping, main face dry as a bone after heavy rain yesterday.
tomrainbow - 08/Oct/14
Cheers Milkman (whoever you are). There's still an unclimbed project in the middle of the side wall. It has got tape on the first bolt. Please leave this for the time being (I hope to complete this on Saturday).
tomrainbow - 02/Oct/14
For the new sport routes which Tom and team have done a fab job of cleaning and bolting. Thanks for the effort. 400 strides from the signpost at the top of the steps when you come up from the beach. There is a tree in front of you with obvious knot at 10ft. Prior to this tree by 10/15m there is a slight path follow this and it leads to the left side of the crag. Get down there and get on them, cheers Tom
Milkman - 02/Oct/14
Please do not access the first quarry (Bloodhound) as there are nesting birds which are easily disturbed March - August. Thanks
sebloram - 03/May/11
Is there any access problems here or is climbing allowed here all year round? Thanks, Ellis (:
Ellis Butler-Barker - 28/Feb/11
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Sea Cliffs
2 Gremlin VS 4b 1
3 Merlin Rocket
-
HVS 5a 2
4 Hornet VS 4c 1
5 Enterprise
-
S 4a  
6 Surprise
-
E1 5b 1
  Bloodhound Quarry
8 Born Toulouse
-
E4 6b * 2
9 The Impressionist
-
E5 6b  
10 Monet for Old Rope
-
E2 5c 8
11 Freudian Gymslip
-
E1 5b  
12 Beware the Sphinx
-
VS 4b  
13 Great Dane
-
S 4a * 1
14 Barking Mad
-
E2 5b  
15 The Gambler
-
E3 6a *  
16 Bloodhound
-
E2 5c * 1
17 Trism
-
E4 6a **  
18 Junebug
-
E4 6b *  
19 The Corner
-
E3 5c  
20 Roar Like Sushi 7c+ **  
21 Warpath 7a+ * 1
  Jungleland Quarry
23 A Moment Spent Talking E5 6b/c  
24 Aretez Vous E4 6b **  
25 Metalwasp 6c+ ** 3
26 The Jungle Line 6b+ * 6
  Project Quarry
28 Whizz Bang Kissy Kissy 7b ** 1
29 Crystal Palace 6c+ * 4
30 Scallop Wall 6a+ 4
31 The Muscle Farm 7a * 4
  Sugar Mountain
33 Sidewall Traverse f6C * 1
34 Arete Butler 6c+ * 15
35 Billy Crystal Cluster 7a ** 17
36 Stan Coliform 7c ** 4
37 Martin Launderette 6a * 30
38 Mackerel Stevens 7c *** 2
39 Krushmi Chheda 7c+ *** 7
40 Bob Handhold 6c ** 24
41 Macca's Route 7a+ ** 33
42 Powderfinger 6b * 48
43 Ragged Glory 6b * 46
44 Gene Parmesan 7b+ ** 10
  Sugar Mountain Slab
46 Picnic Blanket Bobsleigh 6a+ 39
47 Work-Life-Balance 6b+ * 13
48 Thanks To Bob 5a * 27
  Supercalorific Quarry
50 Redstone Traverse f7A ** 5
51 Helter Skelter 7b+ ** 3
52 Salami Wall 8a ** 6
53 See-Saw Sundays 7c *** 14
54 Slipshod
-
VS 4b 1
55 Standing on the Shoulders of Giants HVS 4c * 3
56 Salmon Run
-
E2 6a 1
57 Satanic Traversities
-
E3 6a 1
58 The Invisible Man
-
E3 6a ** 1
59 No Holds Barred 7a+ *** 14
60 Chocology 7c * 4
61 Supercalorific 6a+ *** 104
62 Walking Tall
-
E3 5b 4
63 6b Link 6b ** 7
64 Cream Tea Special
-
HVS 4c 5
65 Bearing Down
-
E5 6b * 2
66 Bering Straight 7a+ * 18
67 Raph's Route
-
VD  
68 Spurting Wildly
-
HS 4a  
69 There She Blows
-
7b *  
70 Ramming Speed
-
E1 5b 1
71 Ace of Diamonds
-
V2 *  
72 Squige f6A+ **  
73 Megrim f7A 3
74 Megrim sit start f7A+ 2
75 Torbay sole f7A+ 2
76 Right no arĂȘte f6A+ 3
77 Right arĂȘte f5+ 3

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