Climbs 40
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 400m a.s.l
Faces W

Jerome Taylor on 'Threadbare' F7c © Finn Clipson

Crag features

Inland, offering remarkable flowstone formations despite having been quarried. Overhanging: a good wet weather venue. Gets the afternoon sun. Suffers from seepage in winter. Some routes on the RHS of the quarry need gear - either bring it or don't do them! Need up to 10 quickdraws.

Approach notes

From Newton Abbot, take the A381 S towards Totnes. After 3miles turn R to Ipplepen, follow signs for Torbryan. After 1mile the signs to Torbryan branch R; keep L until another road joins from the R at a tight corner. Park before the turning circle on the right. If busy use the car park up the road, Do NOT park in the turning circle

The quarry is 50m up a short track through a locked gate by the road.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
More Guidebooks:
South Devon and Dartmoor (1995)

Out of print:
Wasps covering the crag on (10/10/2016).
twill - 11/Oct/16
Loose hanger and nut? Today (3/6/15) found on Boogie on Down, 2nd bolt.
BC - 04/Jun/15
beware broken glass at base of routes and on lower holds
wiwwim - 20/Apr/13
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Peggy Potato6b *282
2Pebbles6c *167
3The Wages of Fear6c+ *109
4Viscious Delicious7b *67
5Little White Lie7b **126
6Little White Lie Direct7b *19
7Mayday6c ***430
8Threadbare (starting from left)7b+ ***61
9Threadbare7c+ **95
10Thread Flintstone7b ***379
11Bam Bam7a+ *20
12Barney Rubble7a+ ***371
13Boogie on Down6c **298
14Look Back in AngerE4 6b 3
15Crosstown Traffic6c+ **28
16FamineE2 5c *7
17Bedrock6b+ **196
18Blight DelightE2 5c *17
19Death Of King EdwardHVS 5a 5
20SpudE4 6a 2
21WilmaE3 6a 5
22Yabba Dabba Doo!
E5 2
23Ralph Sokrotom's Septic ToenailHVS 5a 1
25Delicious White Lie7b *4
26Vicious White Lie7c **6
27Bob8a+ ***6
28Left Bare Stone7b **4
29Make Hay7a **13
30Bob/Threadbare link-up8a **11
31Pan-Pan7b **3
32Red Thunder8a **15
33Protean Protein6c *28
34Boogie on Threads7a ***14
35Boogie on Barney *6c+ ***4
36Barney Boogie *7a *1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer lewisrichardson