Climbs 40
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 400m a.s.l
Faces W

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Jerome Taylor on 'Threadbare' F7c © Finn Clipson

Crag features

Inland, offering remarkable flowstone formations despite having been quarried. Overhanging: a good wet weather venue. Gets the afternoon sun. Suffers from seepage in winter. Some routes on the RHS of the quarry need gear - either bring it or don't do them! Need up to 10 quickdraws.

Approach notes

From Newton Abbot, take the A381 S towards Totnes. After 3miles turn R to Ipplepen, follow signs for Torbryan. After 1mile the signs to Torbryan branch R; keep L until another road joins from the R at a tight corner. Park before the turning circle on the right. If busy use the car park up the road, Do NOT park in the turning circle

The quarry is 50m up a short track through a locked gate by the road.

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West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
More Guidebooks:
South Devon (2018)
South Devon and Dartmoor (1995)

Out of print:
A pair of goldfinches nesting near the top of Mayday to be mindful of :-) 14/04/18
alice lloyd - 15/Apr/18
There's a pair of goldfinches nesting near the top of Mayday to be mindful of :-)
alice lloyd - 14/Apr/18
Wasps covering the crag on (10/10/2016).
twill - 11/Oct/16
Loose hanger and nut? Today (3/6/15) found on Boogie on Down, 2nd bolt.
BC - 04/Jun/15
beware broken glass at base of routes and on lower holds
wiwwim - 20/Apr/13
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Peggy Potato 6b * 351
2 Pebbles 6c * 211
3 The Wages of Fear 6c+ * 131
4 Viscious Delicious 7b * 79
5 Little White Lie 7b ** 164
6 Little White Lie Direct 7b * 25
7 Mayday 6c *** 530
8 Threadbare (starting from left) 7b+ *** 75
9 Threadbare 7c+ ** 97
10 Thread Flintstone 7b *** 417
11 Bam Bam 7a+ * 32
12 Barney Rubble 7a+ *** 462
13 Boogie on Down 6c ** 416
14 Look Back in Anger E4 6b 4
Climb name Grade
15 Crosstown Traffic 6c+ ** 30
16 Famine E2 5c * 8
17 Bedrock 6b+ ** 257
18 Blight Delight E2 5c * 17
19 Death Of King Edward HVS 5a 5
20 Spud E4 6a 2
21 Wilma E3 6a 5
22 Yabba Dabba Doo!
E5 3
23 Ralph Sokrotom's Septic Toenail HVS 5a 1
25 Delicious White Lie 7b * 5
26 Vicious White Lie 7c ** 11
27 Bob 8a+ *** 6
28 Left Bare Stone 7b ** 8
Climb name Grade
29 Make Hay 7a ** 18
30 Bob/Threadbare link-up 8a ** 12
31 Pan-Pan 7b ** 3
32 Red Thunder 8a ** 16
33 Protean Protein 6c * 32
34 Boogie on Threads 7a *** 21
35 Boogie on Barney 6c+ *** 29
36 Barney Boogie 7a * 22
37 Barney Flinstone 7a+ 6
38 Left bare day 7a+ * 2
39 Right Said Thread 8a ** 2
40 Left Said Thread * 7b+ ** 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer lewisrichardson