Climbs 150
Rocktype UNKNOWN
Altitude Tidal
Faces N

SlopeyTravExtension © M G Edwards

Crag features

A lurvely boulder beach that stretches on for eternity.. A mini guide has been produced.
Wave washed ancient metamorphised sandstone (I think?). Consists of freestanding blocks, caves and walls. Amazing low friction slopers a plenty. Pads needed for the large pebble landings. All styles and grades catered for. Beach levels can very dramatically and change the nature of problems. Any W through to NE breeze will help to make conditions better. The trick is to time your visit with the tides, head at around low tide and work your way back west. Explore and enjoy.

There is plenty more to discover around the Exmoor coast for those that enjoy bouldering..
[Grid ref approximate; better welcomed - UKC Ed]

Grid Ref and access details updated !! Feb 08 (Granticus)

Approach notes

Tidal - beware: you may get cut off and put yourself/ others in danger. The beach is public and the tide will wash your chalk off. Parking at Lynmouth Harbour (Pay & Display or have a limited time from March to Oct). Walk across footbridge over river and continue eastwards. Nearest boulders are 5 mins East along beach from main parking areas. Situated beyond the area known as Blacklands or Black Rocks, marked as Point Perilous on the Map. On Neap tides initial areas are available at all stages of tide. Continue walking eastwards to discover more and more bouldering... But BEWARE OF THE TIDES. It is possible to escape up the 'zig zag' path at Sillery Sands but this is a VERY LONG walk and a VERY HARD slog up a VERY BIG hill.

WARNING! The 'zig zag' path above Sillery sands is currently inaccessible, the steps that led to the beach were knocked out by winter storms 2013/14 and have not been replaced.
granticus - 10/Dec/14
Short video of some of the problems here:
EdGS - 04/Jul/13
Beach levels are currently perfect in most spots. Joker and the Thief etc.. all 'proper' ticks at the moment.
granticus - 17/Jun/13
Joker and the Thief block is currently burried! Such is the way of Lynmouth some different blocks have been revealed after this change in beach levels. Lots of new stuff has been done over the winter. Guide update in process.
granticus - 10/Feb/13
Really good to see some youngsters getting on these problems. Good effort Luke and Hamish! Alot of them have only had a couple of ascents, 'Time and Tide' is waiting for a 3rd ascent, 'White Men Can't Jump' is unrepeated. Over at west 'Anarchy arete' the number of ascentionists can be counted on 1 hand. Get to it lads!
granticus - 04/Aug/11
A free pdf guide to Lynmouth bouldering is now available from and/or ;o)
granticus - 21/Mar/11
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
27th Wave Traverse
f7A+ ***2
3The Odysseyf7B+ ***2
4Chimpanzee Achne
f7A ***6
5No More Nails
f7B ***5
6Time and Tidef7B ***2
7Twister sds
f7B+ ***5
8White Men Can't Jumpf7B *** 
9Dr's Wallf6B **2
10Batman's Wallf6B **2
11Thin Out The Numbers
f7A+ ***3
12The Lynmouth boulder jam ho down throw down
f7B ***4
13Monster tide
f7B ***10
14Mike's Extensionf7C ***3
15Sloper Slapf6A+ *4
16The Big Slab (Direct)HVS 5a *9
17Nosey Parker
f7B+ **2
18Left Side - Diamond Slabf4+ 6
19Diamond wall directf4+ *5
20Right sidef4+ 5
21Face onf5+ 3
22Face Off
f7A+ ***12
23Twister Sit Start
f7C ***6
24Cyclonef7A 5
25Corolious Effectf7B **4
26Finger Furyf7B 5
27The Joker and the Thieff6C+ 13
28Easy Crack
f3 4
29Behind Enemy Linesf7C+ *** 
30Slopey Traverse Originalf6A+ 9
31Slopey traverse extensionf7B ***10
32Cake Vs Pief7B+ 3
33Pretty in Pinkf6A+ **18
34Pretty Long and Pink
f6C **9
35Stinky Pinkyf7B *4
36Eliminatef6B 18
37Right Aretef4+ 14
38Whompingf7C+ ***3
39Goofy foot traversef6B **10
40Dynof6C 2
41Elegant Mantlef6B+ 1
42What was all the fuss about?f6A *7
f7C ** 
44Barden Direct
f7C+ *** 
45F.E.A.R on the left
f6C **4
E1 ***6
47Anarchy Arete
E3 ***6
48Sid Vicious
f4+ ***6
49Groovy baby f6A **2
50Wimpingf7C+ ***1
51Mike's Slab *f6B 2
52Tuton Come On *f6A+ ***5
53Giza Left Direct *f6B ***5
54Giza Left right finish *f6A+ **3
55Ankh *f6A *4
56Ankh right finish *f6C **4
57Fuss In Boots *f6C 3
58Rhododendron Stick Vomit *V3 1
59Talon left *
f6B+ **4
60Talon right *
f6C **4
61Arete *V3+ 4
62Snatch *V5+ 3
63Pinball gorge *
f5+ 3
64The Board *f7A+ ***2
65Big Slab Left *f4+ 1
66Big Slab Middle *f5 1
67Big Slab Right *f4+ 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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