Climbs 150
Rocktype UNKNOWN
Altitude Tidal
Faces N

SlopeyTravExtension © M G Edwards

Crag features

A lurvely boulder beach that stretches on for eternity.. A mini guide has been produced.
Wave washed ancient metamorphised sandstone (I think?). Consists of freestanding blocks, caves and walls. Amazing low friction slopers a plenty. Pads needed for the large pebble landings. All styles and grades catered for. Beach levels can very dramatically and change the nature of problems. Any W through to NE breeze will help to make conditions better. The trick is to time your visit with the tides, head at around low tide and work your way back west. Explore and enjoy.

There is plenty more to discover around the Exmoor coast for those that enjoy bouldering..
[Grid ref approximate; better welcomed - UKC Ed]

Grid Ref and access details updated !! Feb 08 (Granticus)

Approach notes

Tidal - beware: you may get cut off and put yourself/ others in danger. The beach is public and the tide will wash your chalk off. Parking at Lynmouth Harbour (Pay & Display or have a limited time from March to Oct). Walk across footbridge over river and continue eastwards. Nearest boulders are 5 mins East along beach from main parking areas. Situated beyond the area known as Blacklands or Black Rocks, marked as Point Perilous on the Map. On Neap tides initial areas are available at all stages of tide. Continue walking eastwards to discover more and more bouldering... But BEWARE OF THE TIDES. It is possible to escape up the 'zig zag' path at Sillery Sands but this is a VERY LONG walk and a VERY HARD slog up a VERY BIG hill.

WARNING! The 'zig zag' path above Sillery sands is currently inaccessible, the steps that led to the beach were knocked out by winter storms 2013/14 and have not been replaced.
granticus - 10/Dec/14
Short video of some of the problems here: https://vimeo.com/69571234
EdGS - 04/Jul/13
Beach levels are currently perfect in most spots. Joker and the Thief etc.. all 'proper' ticks at the moment.
granticus - 17/Jun/13
Joker and the Thief block is currently burried! Such is the way of Lynmouth some different blocks have been revealed after this change in beach levels. Lots of new stuff has been done over the winter. Guide update in process.
granticus - 10/Feb/13
Really good to see some youngsters getting on these problems. Good effort Luke and Hamish! Alot of them have only had a couple of ascents, 'Time and Tide' is waiting for a 3rd ascent, 'White Men Can't Jump' is unrepeated. Over at west 'Anarchy arete' the number of ascentionists can be counted on 1 hand. Get to it lads!
granticus - 04/Aug/11
A free pdf guide to Lynmouth bouldering is now available from www.javu.co.uk and/or www.rustypeg.co.uk. ;o)
granticus - 21/Mar/11
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  --
2 7th Wave Traverse
-
f7A+ *** 2
3 The Odyssey f7B+ *** 3
4 Chimpanzee Achne
-
f7A *** 7
5 No More Nails
-
f7B *** 6
6 Time and Tide f7B *** 2
7 Twister sds
-
f7B+ *** 5
8 White Men Can't Jump f7B ***  
9 Dr's Wall f6B ** 2
10 Batman's Wall f6B ** 2
11 Thin Out The Numbers
-
f7A+ *** 3
12 The Lynmouth boulder jam ho down throw down
-
f7B *** 5
13 Monster tide
-
f7B *** 11
14 Mike's Extension f7C *** 3
15 Sloper Slap f6A+ * 5
16 The Big Slab (Direct) HVS 5a * 10
17 Nosey Parker
-
f7B+ ** 2
18 Left Side - Diamond Slab f4+ 6
19 Diamond wall direct f4+ * 5
20 Right side f4+ 5
21 Face on f5+ 5
22 Face Off
-
f7A+ *** 13
23 Twister Sit Start
-
f7C *** 6
24 Cyclone f7A 5
25 Corolious Effect f7B ** 4
26 Finger Fury f7B 5
27 The Joker and the Thief f6C+ 13
28 Easy Crack
-
f3 5
29 Behind Enemy Lines f7C+ ***  
30 Slopey Traverse Original f6A+ 9
31 Slopey traverse extension f7B *** 12
32 Cake Vs Pie f7B+ 3
33 Pretty in Pink f6A+ ** 19
34 Pretty Long and Pink
-
f6C ** 9
35 Stinky Pinky f7B * 4
36 Eliminate f6B 18
37 Right Arete f4+ 16
38 Whomping f7C+ *** 3
39 Goofy foot traverse f6B ** 11
40 Dyno f6C 2
41 Elegant Mantle f6B+ 1
42 What was all the fuss about? f6A * 8
43 Barden
-
f7C **  
44 Barden Direct
-
f7C+ ***  
45 F.E.A.R on the left
-
f6C ** 4
46 F.E.A.R
-
E1 *** 6
47 Anarchy Arete
-
E3 *** 9
48 Sid Vicious
-
f4+ *** 7
49 Groovy baby f6A ** 2
50 Wimping f7C+ *** 1
51 Mike's Slab * f6B 2
52 Tuton Come On * f6A+ *** 6
53 Giza Left Direct * f6B *** 6
54 Giza Left right finish * f6A+ ** 4
55 Ankh * f6A * 5
56 Ankh right finish * f6C ** 5
57 Fuss In Boots * f6C 3
58 Rhododendron Stick Vomit * V3 1
59 Talon left *
-
f6B+ ** 5
60 Talon right *
-
f6C ** 4
61 Arete * V3+ 4
62 Snatch * V5+ 3
63 Pinball gorge *
-
f5+ 3
64 The Board * f7A+ *** 2
65 Big Slab Left * f4+ 1
66 Big Slab Middle * f5 1
67 Big Slab Right * f4+ 1
68 Bash and grab * f3+ 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer granticus