Approach notes

North Ridge & West Face Approach: head directly east towards the mountain from the refuge. Shortly after leaving the refuge (c.100m around the farthest of the bivi sites) head left (uphill) across slabs and follow the upper line of cairns all the way to the base of the N Ridge.  The West face routes are accessed easily from this side.  

SW Ridge and South Face Approach: head directly towards the mountain from the refuge.  Follow the lower line of cairns to where it steepens below the central snow field at the base of the mountain  - avoid this on the right (south) side of the bowl and circle back around above the small rock bands to reach the notch at the base of the SW Ridge. Abseil down a couloir from here to reach the South Face routes.