Climbs 80
Rocktype Volcanic tuff
Altitude 640m a.s.l
Faces SW

Plaque Slab, Right side, Upper Gaitkins. © Purple

Crag features

A delightfully situated series of buttresses, generally up to about 16m in height. There are a few longer routes and many shorter, mostly on excellent rock. Broadly divided into Upper Gaitkins (further left on the hillside when viewed from below), Middle Gaitkins (100m down and right), and Lower Gaitkins (further right and lower!), a little exploration is required to discover all the component buttresses.
Upper Gaitkins includes the routes from 'Brass Plaque Vandals' to Four Play.
Middle Gaitkins includes the routes from 'Pedestel Route' to 'Right Arete'
Lower Gaitkins includes the routes from 'Dog's Breakfast' to 'Thin Horizontal'

Approach notes

Approximately 50 minutes pleasant walk from the Three Shires Stone at the summit of Wrynose Pass. Head towards Red Tarn but before reaching it, cut left across the marshy valley and climb the flank of Cold Pike - contour around to reach the various buttresses which are somewhat spread out.

Guidebooks

A truly delightful spot, and well worth the walk-in from Wrynose which isn't very demanding physically but the buttresses can prove somewhat elusive as they face away, somewhat, from the direction of approach. After passing over/round the south ridge of Cold Pike continue towards Little Stand, roughly level, for about 1 km. Gradually some of the crags of Gaitkins (Upper) come into view. They will be above you and are distinguished by reddish rock. For Lower Gaitkins look for a flattish somewhat marshy area - the crags lie below this, probably out of sight till you reach them. The name Gaitkins is accurately located on the 1:25000 map and the flat area can be detected in the contour pattern. Lower Gaitkins is sheltered from east and north-east winds, making it a good winter venue on cold sunny northerly days.
Rog Wilko - 07/Oct/16
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Brass Plaque Vandals VS 4b 4
2 Plaque Attack Direct Start VS 4c 3
3 Plaque Attack VS 4c1 2
4 Trench Town Rock MS 4
5 Transition Rock S 1
6 Reluctant Snowmen S 6
7 Plaque Wall MVS 3
8 Plaque Arete MVS 3
9 Corner D 3
10 Blowing in the Wind HVS 5b  
11 Plaque Groove VS 5a 3
12 Once Bitten S  
13 The Mountain Ringlet E2 5c * 3
14 Seriously Smooth E3 6a * 4
15 Smoothly Severe S 7
16 The Scoop S 4
17 Nick's Route VD 4
18 Runny Nose D 10
19 Snecklifter
-
MVS 4b * 2
20 Ratbag HS 5
21 Jilted John E1 5b 2
22 Mossy Crack
-
HVS 5a  
23 John Shuttleworth E3 5c  
24 Thar She Blows VS 4c * 4
25 Pigs in Shit E3 5c * 1
26 Iced Diamond E2 5c * 4
27 Home Alone MS 4
28 Pearl Harbour VS 4c 3
29 Arizona S 4
30 Virginia MVS 4b  
31 Tennessee MS  
32 Cool Hand Luke HVS 4c  
33 Twice Stung S 3
34 Deep Freeze HVS 5b 2
35 Heather's Ledge VS 4c 2
36 Four Play M 2
37 Pedestal Route HS 5
38 Pedestal Right-Hand VS 4c 1
39 One Crack HVS 5b 2
40 Right Hand Crack (aka Thrice Claimed Crack) E2 5c ** 1
41 Wall Route E3 6b *  
42 Right Groove VS 4c  
43 Right Arete HS 3
44 Dog's Breakfast MS  
45 Iron in the Monkey E2 5b *  
46 Monkey in your Soul E2 5b **  
47 Give the Dog a Bone HVS 5a  
48 Yeats-Brown Crack HVS 5a *  
49 Dog's Dinner E2 5b *  
50 The Bengal Lancer HVS 5a  
51 Scalded Cat HS  
52 On the Edge VD  
53 Bilberry Topping E1 5b *  
54 Bilberry Jam E1 5c *  
55 Lambing Ring MVS 4a 8
56 Tuppin' Harness HVS 5a 3
57 Chewing the Cud VS 4c 4
58 Clean Stepped Arete. S * 2
59 Plaything E2 5c 1
60 Winter Sun HS * 1
61 Easy Edge VD 2
62 Easy Edge Direct Start
-
VS 4c  
63 Faulty Tower HVS 5a  
64 Whores are Laid VS 4c  
65 Tup's Purse E1 5b * 2
66 Furrowed Brow E1 5b * 1
67 Take Three E3 6a 1
68 Lost Generation E2 5c  
69 Nicked E2 5c 1
70 Hand Job VS 4c *  
71 Call Girl Corner S 2
72 Right Wall VS 5a  
73 Crinkle Cracks
-
VD 5
74 Gale Force
-
S 7
75 Paul 1
-
S 10
76 Solo Slab VD * 12
77 Gearless
-
S * 5
78 Picasso's Nose
-
HVS 5a *  
79 Paul II
-
MVS 8
80 Thin Horizontal
-
E1 5b ** 5

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Purple