Climbs 78
Rocktype Volcanic tuff
Altitude 640m a.s.l
Faces SW

Plaque Slab, Right side, Upper Gaitkins. © Purple

Crag features

A delightfully situated series of buttresses, generally up to about 16m in height. There are a few longer routes and many shorter, mostly on excellent rock. Broadly divided into Upper Gaitkins (further left on the hillside when viewed from below), Middle Gaitkins (100m down and right), and Lower Gaitkins (further right and lower!), a little exploration is required to discover all the component buttresses.
Upper Gaitkins includes the routes from 'Brass Plaque Vandals' to Four Play.
Middle Gaitkins includes the routes from 'Pedestel Route' to 'Right Arete'
Lower Gaitkins includes the routes from 'Dog's Breakfast' to 'Thin Horizontal'

Approach notes

Approximately 50 minutes pleasant walk from the Three Shires Stone at the summit of Wrynose Pass. Head towards Red Tarn but before reaching it, cut left across the marshy valley and climb the flank of Cold Pike - contour around to reach the various buttresses which are somewhat spread out.


A truly delightful spot, and well worth the walk-in from Wrynose which isn't very demanding physically but the buttresses can prove somewhat elusive as they face away, somewhat, from the direction of approach. After passing over/round the south ridge of Cold Pike continue towards Little Stand, roughly level, for about 1 km. Gradually some of the crags of Gaitkins (Upper) come into view. They will be above you and are distinguished by reddish rock. For Lower Gaitkins look for a flattish somewhat marshy area - the crags lie below this, probably out of sight till you reach them. The name Gaitkins is accurately located on the 1:25000 map and the flat area can be detected in the contour pattern. Lower Gaitkins is sheltered from east and north-east winds, making it a good winter venue on cold sunny northerly days.
Rog Wilko - 07/Oct/16
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Climbs at this crag

27Pearl HarbourVS 4c 3
28ArizonaS 3
29VirginiaMVS 4b  
31Cool Hand LukeHVS 4c  
32Twice StungS 3
33Deep FreezeHVS 5b 2
34Heather's LedgeVS 4c 2
35Four PlayM 2
36Pedestal RouteHS 4
37One CrackHVS 5b 2
38Right Hand Crack (aka Thrice Claimed Crack)E2 5c **1
39Wall RouteE3 6b * 
40Right GrooveVS 4c  
41Right AreteHS 3
42Dog's BreakfastMS  
43Iron in the MonkeyE2 5b * 
44Monkey in your SoulE2 5b ** 
45Give the Dog a BoneHVS 5a  
46Yeats-Brown CrackHVS 5a * 
47Dog's DinnerE2 5b * 
48The Bengal LancerHVS 5a  
49Scalded CatHS  
50On the EdgeVD  
51Bilberry ToppingE1 5b * 
52Bilberry JamE1 5c * 
53Lambing RingMVS 4a 8
54Tuppin' HarnessHVS 5a 3
55Chewing the CudVS 4c 4
56Clean Stepped Arete.S *2
57PlaythingE2 5c 1
58Winter SunHS *1
59Easy EdgeVD 2
60Easy Edge Direct Start
VS 4c  
61Faulty TowerHVS 5a  
62Whores are LaidVS 4c  
63Tup's PurseE1 5b *2
64Furrowed BrowE1 5b *1
65Take ThreeE3 6a 1
66Lost GenerationE2 5c  
67NickedE2 5c 1
68Hand JobVS 4c * 
69Call Girl CornerS 2
70Right WallVS 5a  
71Crinkle Cracks
VD 4
72Gale Force
S 7
73Paul 1
S 9
74Solo SlabVD *8
S *4
76Picasso's Nose
HVS 5a * 
77Paul II
78Thin Horizontal
E1 5b **5

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