Climbs 50
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 393m a.s.l
Faces SE

Donegal Granite at its best © georgec

Crag features

The crags surrounding Lough Belshade in the centre of the Blue Stack Mts provide excellent climbing in beautiful surroundings. The routes are, almost without exception, on sound granite and well spread across the grades although the long routes on the main face of Belshade Buttress are all HVS and above. There is still plenty of scope for development. Friends are almost essential for protection on most routes.

From left to right: Belshade Buttress - by far the largest and containing very fine routes up to 90m in length. Two Tier Buttress on the right flank, consists of two short walls each characterised by a diagonal crack line running up its centre from left to right. Red Wall - below and slightly left of Two- Tier Buttress. This crag is a smooth rightwards facing slab giving fine climbing with no protection. Beyond this is a steep grass and rock outcrops through which descent can be made from the top of the main crag. To the right again is a stream and then a group of three crags one above the other. These are, from the bottom to the top, Blaeberry Crag, The High Crag and last of all The Very High Crag. All provide good one pitch routes on clean rock.

Map ref: G975901

Approach notes

After passing through Barnesmore Gap on the Ballybofey/Donegal Town Road, look for signs on the right for Lough Eske. Drive around the lake in an anti-clockwise direction until, at the top of a steep hill, a wooden walker points the way down a narrow road to the right (Edergole) The narrow road leads to a small farmyard where cars can be parked. From here a way marked path leads up the valley passing (out of sight) the Doonan Waterfall which is well worth the short detour (50m) to the right to see. The river, and the marker posts are followed until the first major river junction, when a stream descends from Lough Belshade to the left. Follow this stream to arrive at the lake shore. Follow the lake shore to the right to arrive at a small beach at the northern end of the lake, directly below the crags.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Belshade Buttress
2 More Snakes Than Ladders
VS 4c * 1
3 Byzantium
VS 4c ** 4
4 Classical Revival HVS 5a *** 9
5 Mystery Tour E1 5b **  
6 Act of Destruction E3 6a ***  
7 Taken at the Flood E1 5b ** 1
8 Lest we Forget HVS 5a **  
9 Midgesummer Nightmare E1 5b *** 2
10 Land of Heart's Desire
HVS 5a *** 1
  Two Tier Buttress
12 Sweet Bird VS 4b  
13 Quality Street VS 4c  
14 Sidelines HS 4b  
15 Tennessee Stud VS 4c  
  Red Wall
17 Fitt for a Lord VS 4b  
Climb name Grade
18 The Red Wall VS 4c  
19 Wassock Corner HS 4b  
  Blaeberry Buttress
21 Punkah Wallah S 3c  
22 Tuning-fork flake
HS 4a 1
23 Waterloo
S 3c ** 1
24 Fear Gorta VS 4c  
25 Corner Boy HVS 5a  
26 Flyover HVS 5a **  
27 Jibber HVS 5a  
28 Gas Guzzler HVS 5b *** 1
29 Folly Wolly Doodle S 4a  
30 Folly Wolly Doodle Direct VS 5a  
31 Confrontation
VS 4c 2
32 Conclusion E1 5c *  
33 Ruairi E1 5b  
Climb name Grade
  High Crags
35 Dead Man's Ladder VD *  
36 Hombre HS 4a *  
37 Toblerone S 4a  
38 A Midge Too Far VS 5a *  
39 Dambusters E2 5c *  
40 Fudge Fingers VS 4c  
  Very High Crag
42 Northwest Passage HS 4b  
43 Rejuvenation S 3c  
44 Joint Effort VD  
  Red Gully
46 Double Whymper (& Chips) S 4a  
47 From a Whymper to a Scream HVS 5b  
48 Kieran's Pain HS 4b  
49 P.J's Pleasure HVS 5a  
50 Tosser S 4a  

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