Climbs 102
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 292m a.s.l
Faces N

James Garden, Swingers Party © chris fox

Crag features

A variety of pleasant, short mid-grade climbs on good compact grit. A fair amount of bouldering is also available. Where necessary, stakes provide belays at the top but these can be difficult to locate under summer growth.

Approach notes

Park on Holestone Gate Road at the bend by the phone masts taking care not to block the gate entrance. Go through the gates and leftwards along the path next to the field boundary.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
An interesting venue. Would agree with comments made in June 2009. Some routes (although easy climbing) have no protection at all. April the walks around the bottom are okay - bracken hasn't grown back up yet, but its obvious there are lots of rocks overgrown with grass at the bottom. Some routes need a bit of gardening to make them climbable. Would be worth a visit to boulder (especially if you're okay high-balling).
Skinny - 19/Apr/17
Tree fallen on Wee Wall obscuring some of the problems. The best one (Secret Lemonade Drinker) is still climbable though.
tallsop - 17/Dec/11
There is a topo for the boulders here. http://homepage.ntlworld.com/k.aberg/guide/BQB.pdf
Bolehillbilly - 05/Mar/10
An unusual and little frequented venue which i had been meaning to re-visit for some time. Fortunately some good people have recently gardened the better routes and these have belay stakes, some perseverence is required in finding them though. Generally the routes we climbed felt easy for the grade, although protection is sparse. Fantastic views but difficult getting around due to gorse, heather, nettles etc and hidden boulders. I reccomend a visit.
Pilch - 27/Jun/09
nice place. was using an old (1960s) chatsworth guide which made things interesting. Thge boulder's were great, though friable in places, and there's actually a few quite nice line in the quarry too.
DannyC - 07/May/08
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Lichen Slab
2 Polytrichum f4 1
3 Climacium f3+ 1
  Tiger Walls
5 Vegetarian Cannibal f6B 2
6 Top Dog f7A  
7 The Gap f5 1
8 Growl Tiger f6A 10
9 Dogma f7B+ *  
10 C'mon Tiger f6A ** 32
11 Easy Tiger f5 8
12 Overhang Arête
-
HS 4b 4
13 Tweedledum
-
HS 4b 5
14 Ma Wall
-
V1  
15 Walking the Dog f5 1
16 Valentina
-
V0+ 1
17 Tweedledee
-
HS 4b 1
18 Woof
-
V2  
  Swingers
20 Morris Dancing f6C+ * 15
21 Party Pooper
-
V7 1
22 Swingers Party f7B+ *** 27
  Dodgy Block Buttress
24 Il Pleut f7A+ * 2
25 Hot Tody f6A 1
26 Mug of Beans
-
f6B 1
27 Heads Up f6B 1
28 Hot Foot f6B 1
29 Wet Toes f6C 2
30 Andy's Traverse
-
f7A  
  Wee Wall
32 Secret Lemonade Drinker f6A * 4
33 Secret Lemonade Drinker (Variant) f6B+ * 2
34 Wee Wall f5+ 2
35 Tree Wall
-
f6B  
36 Piss Poor f4 4
  Big House Boulder
38 Spiderman 2 f3+ 4
39 Spiderman 1 f4+ 3
40 Crumblehorn
-
f6C+ 1
41 Eat Less Bread f6B+ 1
42 Three and Four Pence f6C * 9
43 Two n Six f4+ * 2
44 Probably f6B * 7
45 South Western Front
-
f6A+  
46 Birdsong f7C 3
47 Birdsong RH f7C 1
48 Pinch Punch f7B+ ** 1
49 Western Front f6C 2
  Low Boulder
51 Trench Foot f6B+ 6
52 Gone for a Burton f4+ 1
53 Full Monty f5 1
  Traverse Boulder
55 Little Traverse f4  
  1915 Boulder
57 Crimp Master Nasty f7B  
58 Behind the Lines f6A * 4
59 The Big Push f6B * 11
60 Uphill Arête Left-Hand
-
V0 5
61 Uphill Arête Right-Hand f5 12
62 Slabby Wall f5+ 10
  Circuitry
64 Tump It
-
VD 3c 6
65 Circuitry
-
HVS 5a 4
  Cauli Wobbles
67 Manchego
-
VS 4c 2
68 Cauli Wobbles
-
E1 5c 2
  Eliminates
70 Heather Slab
-
HVD 4a 9
71 Left Eliminate
-
HVD 4a 5
72 Servitude
-
HVS 5a * 6
73 Underhanded f6B 2
74 Crossover
-
HS 4a * 5
75 Right Eliminate
-
HS 4b 5
76 Bloody Nora E5 6a ** 1
77 Wet Nettle f7B * 1
78 Summer Break
-
f6A+  
  Fina
80 Fina
-
HVS 5b * 4
81 Toby Jug
-
HVS 5b 8
82 Cave Arête
-
HS 4a 3
  Medusa
84 Layback Arête
-
VD 5
85 Medusa
-
VS 4b * 6
86 Exit Crack
-
VS 4b 5
87 The Valley
-
HVS 5a  
88 Meridian
-
VS 4b  
  Quarry
90 Lunching with the Pixies
-
E3 5c  
91 Tarpian
-
E1 5a * 6
92 Recessed Corner
-
HVS 5b 1
93 Trapeze
-
HVS 4c * 5
94 Sirius
-
E2 5c * 1
95 Castor
-
E1 5b * 2
96 Pollux
-
E2 5c  
97 Misconception
-
VD  
98 Tortulous
-
VD  
99 Scooper Corner
-
VS 4b  
100 Overhang Groove
-
HVS 5b 1
101 Remus
-
VS 4c 1
102 Remus Direct
-
E1 5a 1
103 Romulus
-
HVS 5a 4
104 Indiscriminate Romeing
-
E1 5c 2
105 Discriminate
-
HVD * 8
106 Eliminate
-
HVS 4c 2
107 Flea Groove
-
VS 4c 2
108 Broken Crack
-
E1 5a 1
109 The Steps
-
VD  
110 Ladder
-
HVD  
111 Worker
-
HS  
112 Mr Sanity's Day Off
-
E2 5b *  
113 Drone
-
S 3c 7
114 Chamfer
-
S 4a 2
115 The Window
-
S 4a 2
116 Aonian
-
D 3
117 Helix
-
S 4a  

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Bolehillbilly