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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 57
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 50m a.s.l
Faces NE

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As a Train speeds by. © deepstar

Crag features

Well worth combining with a trip to Ogmore as the tidal window can be quite restrictive. Some amazing climbing here but the belay area is very overgrown limiting movement between crags.

A steep north-facing slab of good quality limestone with some lovely water-worn pockets, slots and crack features, making the climbs possible. Unfortunately the run off during the winter means the base of the climbs have a coating of moss which requires a peel at the start of the season.

The east-facing side of the quarry contains a series of steeper walls which should provide a decent winter (get there early if you want the sun) or cool summer evening venue.

Approach notes

From Junction 35 of the M4 follow the A473 to Bridgend. Several stretches of dual carriageway and roundaboouts lead to a oddly shaped traffic controlled roundabout, just after the McDonalds (joy), with the left turn signposted to Ogmore By Sea. Two options now present themselves:

- Take the left turn and follow to St Brides Major (4km), just after Pant Quarry. The left hand turning, signposted Castle upon Alun, lies close to the entrance to the village and takes you, steeply, up a small hill. At an obvious dip in the road (1km) is a cross roads. Turn left here and park at the layby on the left (500m), opposite a telegraph pole.

- Take this left turn and continue (1km) until a left turn is signposted to (Ewenny) Corntown, immediately after a river bridge.

Follow this road (1km) to a shop on the right (Ewenny/Corntown Stores), where a narrow road forks off up the hill on the right. Take this road over the crest of a slight hill. The road goes straight down (1km), to a solitary stone wall ringed house on the right. Take the narrow, and hard to spot, road on the right immediately after the house, and follow this to a ford. (Park here for the forbidden 5 min approach).

Cross the ford (sometimes deep) and continue (700m), passing under a bridge to reach a small parking space next to the river (telegraph pole, flow meter box and Glamorgan Naturalist Trust Plaque).

Now, from the layby.......Take the uphill footpath through the trees (100m) keeping a wall on your left to metal gate. 30m after passing through the metal gate take a faint path on the right which soon passes under a small rock escarpement to reach the top of the quarry after about 5 minutes walk. Descend through the trees a few metres back from the top of the crag to reach the base of the first routes.

Naughty way in from the ford is not worth taking, however....The direct approach from the large parking area immediately beyond the ford, crosses the railway line via some steep steps visible from the locked gate. The quarry is about 100m to the left along the rail track, just past an obvious rock cutting. The best place to hop over the fence would be just after the large W sign.One could then follow a faint path off left through the undergrowth past the badger's set. Of course, this access route is strictly forbidden and a hefty fine could ensue!

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South Wales Sport Climbs

South Wales Sport Climbs covers the area to the south of the Brecon Beacons, spanning the land and sea cliffs from the River Wye on the Welsh border to Pembrokeshire in the west. The area is home to a wealth of sport climbing on a multitude of venues ranging from small inland quarries to extensive limestone sea cliffs.
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Visited on 14.05.2017 - amazing amount of work has gone into the quarry to make the routes viable - really worth a visit. Unfortunately the main slab was wet - but looks really good.
evhall - 15/May/17
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  First Slab
2 Jump on the Gravy Train 4c 33
3 Off the Rails 4c 57
4 Nick's Sore Nuts S 4a 4
5 The Fat Controller 5c 61
6 Supping on Dregs HD 3
7 Not Alun's but Aidan's arĂȘte 5a * 3
  Main Slab
9 Scrape the Bottom of the Barrel 5c 37
10 Eugene Genie 7a * 8
11 Cordorba Express 6c+ * 4
12 Matalanafesto 6c * 6
13 Barry Freight 6b+ ** 9
14 A Freem of White Horses 6b ** 24
15 California Freeming 6b ** 35
16 Pubic Enema 6b+ ** 25
17 Freeming of Jeannie HVS * 9
18 Branch Line 6a * 39
19 Unrealised Project 6c  
20 Feeding the Five Thousand 6c * 4
21 Maris Piper Are Best 6c * 4
22 Anal Retention 6c * 4
Climb name Grade
23 Banal Pretention 6c 3
24 The Trainspotter 6b 4
25 Trolley Service Suspended 6b * 2
26 Weak Lemon Drink 6b+ 4
27 In the Sidings 6a 5
29 Bottom Rail 6b+ ** 1
30 Top Rail 6b 3
  Sunny Side
  First Wall
33 Popular Pimp Publication 4c  
34 Harris's List 4b 3
35 Freeming at the Gusset 6a 7
36 Freempie 5c 10
37 Galena Puts Lead In Your Pencil 5c ** 28
38 Plum Bob 5b * 22
39 Burton Line 5b * 12
40 Joys of Fatherhood 6a+ 10
41 Quadcam of Solace 5b * 16
42 Crack Liqour 6b+ * 9
43 The Freem Team 5b 6
Climb name Grade
  Second Wall
45 Sticky Fingers 4c 13
46 Fickle Finger of Fate 4c 12
47 Knuckle Down 4a 10
48 Ring Finger 4c 8
49 Finger Flicking Good 5c 20
50 Fingertip Mistress 6a * 18
51 Knee Trembler 6b * 12
52 Bush Trimmer's Corner 5c * 10
  Third Wall
54 Licence to Drill 6c+ * 8
55 For Your Arms Only 7b * 3
56 Dyno Another Day 7a * 6
57 Out of Pocket 6c * 13
58 Cold Finger 6b+ * 10
59 Project 7 Project  
60 The Hilti-Brand Rarity 6c+ * 1
61 Ocho Pussies 6b+ 2
  Rubble Wall
63 Snake in the Grass 4c 3
64 Nest of Vipers 5a 2

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