Climbs 150
Rocktype Culm
Altitude Tidal
Faces SW

Mike on the end of a route © Richard Pollard

Crag features

Popular climbing venue. Perfect to combine with a surf at Croyde, Putsborough or Woolacombe. Baggy is best known for its south facing promontories with lovely slab routes on culm - metamorphosed sandstone - with good friction.

Lots of friendly, well protected slab climbs mostly in S to E2 range with easy access. A mid-range climber's slab paradise.
Note that the ever-popular Kinky Boots (VS 4c) with its amazing fallover start can be done in full even at high tide.

However, Baggy has a darker side - check out the climbing on the Cheesegrater Cliff or Concrete Wall for a spice of adventure!

Approach notes

Tidal - most climbs accessible from mid-tide but not at high tide. Exceptions are Kinkyboots and the adjacent routes on Promontory Slab.

Bird ban, 15th March to 30th June, Check guide for full details. Some of Scrattling Zawn, Cheesegreater Cliff and Concrete Wall are affected. Despite some of the white stakes showing restricted cliffs, Long Rock has been de-restricted since discussions in 2013.

BMC access database:
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/viewcrag.aspx?id=508

Best approach is by foot, 20 minutes along track from NT car park in Croyde Bay.

Access Advice

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Following a review of climbing restrictions at Baggy Point, the historical restriction on the Long Rock was lifted in 2013. This means that both the Long Rock and the Promontory are unrestricted, but the remaining climbing areas from Scrattling Zawn to Concrete Wall inclusive and Central Walls to Slab Cove inclusive are still restricted for the duration of the nesting season.

There is still a slightly confusing white marker at the top of the descent to the Long Rock, however the restriction definitely no longer applies to this part of the headland. The National Trust are aware of this and will move the marker at some point in the future, but given a busy summer work schedule this may not be for some time. In the meantime, please feel free to access this part of the crag. Many thanks to the National Trust for their help with this.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
Promontory has always been unrestricted and now Long Rock too after some negotiations in 2013, but all other areas are restricted. Signs are up, white stakes too even one close to the descent rope for Long Rock, and these are quite strict with timings: 15th March - 30th June.
Joolz - 26/May/15
The BMC RAD site says they have negotiated with the NT ref bird nesting restriction access and the Long Rock is now permanently open for climbing all year round.
jon59 - 23/May/15
i went there yesterday and it was extremlly frightening and we werent even rock climbing! You lot are braver than me!
Annie Mcknee - 29/Sep/06
Dont come here if you dont like slab climbing
The Pylon King - 17/Sep/06
baggy point is an excellent place to climb for the novice to extremeist! excellent views and some very nice climbs. you could even bring your bird along!!
billy boy - 07/Dec/05
Baggy is one of the most breath-taking and beautiful crags in the country. I grew up climbing on these rocks and consider its wonderful routes amongst the best. Please respect this place - use the footpaths and take your litter with you. Thanx
zakalwe - 12/Aug/05
Baggy point is a very good climb site, I lived in devon for about 14 yrs, and i climbed there almost every weekend. Very good for begginers and experts.
Gaza - 25/May/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Dark Relief S 4a * 2
  Back Scrattling Zawn
3 Last of the Big Nuts
-
E1 4c 3
4 Chouinard's Back Yard
-
VS 4c 2
5 The Dark Side VS 4c 2
  Scrattling Zawn
7 Chouinard's Yard 2 VS 4c 68
8 Chouinard's Yard l HVS 5a * 93
9 The Go Between
-
HVS 5a 13
10 Scrattling Crack VD ** 380
11 Smile
-
S 4a 88
12 Moonshot D * 184
13 Egg
-
E1 5b  
14 The Blacksmith
-
HVS 5a 2
15 Satisfaction
-
E1 5a  
16 White Noise
-
VS  
17 Reborn Man
-
E3 5b *  
18 Resurrection
-
HVS 4c 3
19 Cornflake Crack
-
HVS 5a 1
20 Emmental Arete
-
E4 5c  
  Cheesegrater Cliff
22 The Nightfishing E7 6b  
23 The Dark Dialogues E7 6b/c **  
24 Dark Angel E5 6a *** 2
25 Rindstone
-
E1 5a  
26 Death on a Stick
-
E5 6a 1
27 Hawaiian Pipeline
-
E1 5a *** 3
28 Headcleaner E6 6a/b **  
29 The White Threshold E7 6c ***  
  Concrete Wall
31 Bird's Nest Crack
-
XS 5a 2
32 Two Birds, One Stone
-
E3 5c  
33 Fafnir
-
E2 5b  
34 Concrete Karma
-
E3 5b 2
35 The Concrete Rose
-
HVS 4c 5
36 Potato Crack E4 5c  
37 New Boots and Panties
-
XS 5b 2
38 The Arete
-
VD 3
39 Subsultus
-
VS 4c  
40 Slipstream ll
-
E1 5b *  
41 Fowl Play Fowler
-
VS 4b  
  The Long Rock
43 Far West S 3
44 Come Back Canute
-
VS 4c 3
45 Don't Bring Harry
-
VS 4c  
46 Drift
-
E1 5b  
47 Culm-de-sac VS 4c 7
48 Sting
-
VS 4c 45
49 Dream Lover HVS 5b * 39
50 Pickpocket HVS 5b ** 222
51 Coast of Triumphs
-
HVS 5a 4
52 Ye Old Scrote
-
E3 5c * 15
53 Doors of Perception E1 5b ** 181
54 Speed and Distance
-
E3 5c ** 16
55 Twinkletoes VS 4c ** 301
56 Inferno E5 6a ** 9
57 Embers
-
E5 6b **  
58 No Sweat E1 5c * 51
59 Undercracker E1 5a ** 161
60 Ghecko Blaster
-
E4 5c * 5
61 Slip it in Quick E3 5c ** 31
62 Terrapin E3 5b ** 66
63 Slipstream l
-
E5 6a ** 2
64 Last Testament
-
E6 6b ** 1
65 Soft Touch E4 6a ** 51
66 Touch and Go
-
E5 6a 4
67 Joys of Self Employment E1 5b * 3
68 Lost Horizon VS 5a *** 1044
69 Urizen VS 4c * 394
70 Keep Left
-
VS 4c 5
71 Shangri-La S 4a *** 970
72 Wee Beastie
-
VS 4c 12
73 Blowin Free
-
HVS 5a 2
74 The Great Gig in the Sky
-
VS 4c 3
75 The Great Beast E1 5b * 30
76 Fools Rush In
-
E1 5b ** 21
77 Fallen Angel
-
E3 5c *  
78 Floodland
-
E1 5b  
79 The Oldest Swingers in Town
-
E3 6a  
  The Central Walls
81 Multiplator XS 2
82 Mini Moose's Turnip Poem
-
XS 2
  Slab Cove
84 Astrodyne
-
XS 5b 2
85 Set the Controls
-
E5 6a/b *  
86 Heart of the Sun E2 5c *** 119
87 Astronomy Domine
-
E2 5a  
88 Pink Void
-
VS 4c * 77
89 Bike
-
HVS 4c  
90 Bike Direct
-
HVS 4c  
91 Tandem
-
XS  
92 Margin
-
HVS 4c  
93 Feint
-
HVS 5b * 2
94 Ruled
-
HVS 5a/b  
95 The Last Lap
-
E2 5b  
96 Clipper
-
E1 5b  
97 The Promenade
-
D 3
98 Contraband
-
HVS 4c * 3
99 The Scythe
-
VS 4c 2
100 The Pox
-
HVS 4c 3
101 Spare Rib
-
D 3
  The Promontory
103 Bird Ban
-
E4 5c  
104 Candyman
-
HVS 5a 4
105 Through the Looking Glass
-
E3 5c 1
106 Double Overhang
-
S 40
107 Over the Limit E3 5c  
108 Affluence of Incahol
-
E2 5c 13
109 Nudy Rudy
-
VD 28
110 Freddie HS 4b * 502
111 Ben S 4a *** 982
112 Sleepy Toes VS 4c 131
113 Marion HS 4a ** 795
114 In Marion's Eyes VS 5a 113
115 In Her Eyes S 4a * 570
116 In Her Eyes (direct start) VS 4c 74
117 Tomb of Khazadhum S 24
118 lacking sunlight VD 4a 9
119 Under the Bridge VS 4b 13
120 The Bridge of Khazad-Dum
-
VD 123
121 The Ridge of Khazad-Dum
-
M 51
122 Sheet Whitening VS 5a * 54
123 Blind Faith VS 4c 33
124 Angel Delight HS 4b 5
125 Unkle Tim HVS 4c 3
126 Kinkyboots VS 4c * 742
127 keep going right E4 6a * 2
128 Cirrus Minor VS 4c 20
129 Midnight Cowboy HVS 5b *** 502
130 Long Rock Eliminate HVS 5a * 131
131 Right-hand Eliminate
-
HVS 5a * 32
132 Legs Eleven E2 5c  
133 Sexilegs HVS 5b ** 135
134 Hot, Sweet And Sticky
-
E2 5c 11
135 Gladiator
-
E1 5b * 31
136 The Narrow Way
-
E1 5b 12
137 The Straight and Narrow E1 5b 15
138 Straight up E2 5b 3
139 Slip Sliding Away
-
E2 5c * 9
140 Arterial Bypass
-
E3 6a  
141 Grand Vizier's Garden Party
-
HVS 5a 8
142 Permafrost
-
HVS 5a * 7
143 Renata
-
HVS 5a  
144 Svenja
-
VS 4b  
145 G String
-
VS 2
146 Peeping Tom
-
E1 5c ** 35
147 Goats
-
S 4a 10
148 Snory Tori VS 4c 3
149 Yellow Submarine
-
VS 4b 5
150 Shortera
-
HS 4b 3
151 Titmould Incorporated
-
HVS 5a  
152 S Custard VS 4c 6
153 Siren VS 4c 4
154 Ruby Slippers VS 4b 5
155 FMB's HS 4b * 5
156 Poofy Orange Feet VS 4c ** 3
157 Middle Wicket E1 5b  
158 The Fly in John's Eye * VS 5a 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Joolz