Mike on the end of a route © Richard Pollard
Popular climbing venue. Perfect to combine with a surf at Croyde, Putsborough or Woolacombe. Baggy is best known for its south facing promontories with lovely slab routes on culm - metamorphosed sandstone - with good friction.
Lots of friendly, well protected slab climbs mostly in S to E2 range with easy access. A mid-range climber's slab paradise.
Note that the ever-popular Kinky Boots (VS 4c) with its amazing fallover start can be done in full even at high tide.
However, Baggy has a darker side - check out the climbing on the Cheesegrater Cliff or Concrete Wall for a spice of adventure!
Tidal - most climbs accessible from mid-tide but not at high tide. Exceptions are Kinkyboots and the adjacent routes on Promontory Slab.
Bird ban, 15th March to 30th June, Check guide for full details. Some of Scrattling Zawn, Cheesegreater Cliff and Concrete Wall are affected. Despite some of the white stakes showing restricted cliffs, Long Rock has been de-restricted since discussions in 2013.
BMC access database:
Best approach is by foot, 20 minutes along track from NT car park in Croyde Bay.
Surrounded by fantastic beaches the popular climbing area of Baggy point features excellent slab climbing on metamorphosed sandstone. With grades ranging from Mod to E7 with several routes graded XS. Have a look at the climbing on Cheesegrater Cliff and Concrete wall for something much more adventurous.
Dates: 15 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Following a review of climbing restrictions at Baggy Point, the historical restriction on the Long Rock was lifted in 2013. This means that both the Long Rock and the Promontory are unrestricted, but the remaining climbing areas from Scrattling Zawn to Concrete Wall inclusive and Central Walls to Slab Cove inclusive are still restricted for the duration of the nesting season.
There is still a slightly confusing white marker at the top of the descent to the Long Rock, however the restriction definitely no longer applies to this part of the headland. The National Trust are aware of this and will move the marker at some point in the future, but given a busy summer work schedule this may not be for some time. In the meantime, please feel free to access this part of the crag. Many thanks to the National Trust for their help with this.
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