Climbs 37
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 600m a.s.l
Faces NE

Pitch 7 of Eagle Front © Peter Metcalfe

Crag features

Long mountain routes up to 150m. Good dry spell required to climb here. Easter Buttress(VS), Fifth Avenue(VS), Carnival(E1), Deimos(E3), Shape of Things to Come(E3), A Wing and a Prayer(E3), Eagle Front(VS).

Approach notes

One and a half hours from Gatesgarth Farm. Farmer charges £4 to park off road. Other parking available nearby.

This is a big north facing and quite vegitated crag containing one of the great classic routes of the district: Eagle Front. In dry conditions this is a fine VS (hard) route finishing on top of the ridge; so you need to get the second to carry a sack. In wet weather it is a nightmare not to be seriously contemplated unless you have got the first three pitches behind you and only the fine final crack to get up.
Tony Martyr - 04/May/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Border Buttress
2 Tailgate
-
VD 3
3 Birkness Grooves
-
VS  
4 Border Buttress
-
HVS 5a 1
5 Birkness Gully
-
S 1
6 Birkness Gully IV 4 *** 1
  Far East Buttress
8 Far East Buttress
-
VS 4c 1
9 Harlequin
-
HVS 5a *  
10 The Clown
-
HVS 5a * 1
11 Birkness Chimney
-
HS 4a * 1
  Easter Buttress
13 Pierrot
-
HVS 5a *  
14 Easter Buttress
-
VS 4c ** 5
15 The Plague Dogs
-
E3 5c 1
16 The Hanging Chimneys Direct
-
HVS 5a  
17 Central Chimney
-
VS 4c * 1
  Western Buttress
19 Fifth Avenue
-
VS 4c * 7
20 Carnival
-
E1 5b *** 24
21 Deimos
-
E3 5c *** 6
22 Shape of Things to Come
-
E3 5c *** 3
23 A Wing and a Prayer
-
E3 5c ** 1
24 Eagle Front
-
VS 4c *** 257
25 Mardi Gras
-
E1 5b ** 1
26 Birkness Front
-
HS * 1
27 Birkness Eliminate
-
E3 5b * 1
  Western Flank
29 Piggott's Route
-
HS 1
30 Warlock
-
HVS 5a  
31 Half Nelson Climb
-
S 3
32 Double Cross Route
-
VS 4c *  
33 Visions Of Julie
-
HVS 5a  
34 The Gurner
-
VS 4a 2
35 Fiesta
-
HVS 5a  
36 Candle In The Wind
-
E3 5c  
37 Eagle Girdle
-
HVS 5a *  
38 Girdle Of The Lower Tier
-
HVS  
  Right-Hand Buttress
40 The Barn Door
-
M 1
41 The Barn Door Direct
-
S  
42 The Mole
-
D  
43 West Gully I 2

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