Climbs 65
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 2688m a.s.l
Faces S

Alan Lester making the first free ascent of Anaconda, Lumpy Ridge, Colorado. © stp

Crag features

Lumpy Ridge, Colorado, USA. One of the world's best climbing areas, is host to a ton of classic granite multipitch routes. They don't star them in the Falcon guide, but it's safe to say that if it is on Lumpy Ridge and you climb it, it'll be one of the best routes you ever do. A popular local attraction are the Twin Owls - unmissable landmarks which could not be better named. They themselves host some appealing routes. Pear Buttress and the remarkable The Book buttress also have an irresistable magneticism. Being in Rocky Mountain National Park but relatively low down, the weather tends to be pretty good here April through to October. Despite it being in the National Park this particular area does not require a park entrance fee, a bonus for those who don't have an America the Beautiful Pass! Most visitors come here for walking and running. While fairly popular with climbers, due to the high number of classics you are likely to get routes to yourself and queues even on weekends are extremely rare.

Approach notes

Most buttresses easily accessed by a good network of paths in 10-40minutes. The car park is free but fairly small.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Crescent Wall
2 Poultry in Motion
-
5.11d  
3 Crescent Arch
-
5.11c  
4 Finger Lickin Good
-
5.11a  
5 Pressure Drop
-
5.11a  
6 Strategic Arms
-
5.11d  
7 Lycra Bikers From Hell
-
5.12a  
8 Fight for Life
-
5.12a  
9 Heaven Can Wait
-
5.9  
10 Cleft Palate
-
5.11a  
11 Milk Run
-
5.7  
  Twin Owls
13 Tighter Squeeze
-
5.8 *  
14 Twister
-
5.10b 1
15 Peaches and Cream
-
5.11c  
16 Rip Curl and Epitaph
-
5.12a  
17 Crack of Fear
-
5.10d 1
18 Central Chimney
-
5.8 ***  
19 Anaconda
-
5.13c ***  
20 Silly Putty (West Owl Direct)
-
5.12a  
21 Coyote
-
5.12b  
22 Tiger's Tooth
-
5.9 3
23 Tilted Mitten
-
5.8  
24 Wolf's Tooth 5.9 *** 2
25 Prow
-
5.10c  
  The Book
27 The Cavity
-
5.10a 1
28 Osiris 5.7 *** 6
29 Femp
-
5.9 2
30 Kite Slab
-
5.11d  
31 J Crack 5.10a *** 10
32 Loose Ends
-
5.9 2
33 Pear Buttress 5.8 *** 3
34 Stretch Marks
-
5.11a 1
35 Thinstone
-
5.9  
36 Fat City
-
5.10c 2
37 Fat City Crack 5.10c *** 3
38 The 44
-
5.10c  
39 HIgh Plains Drifter
-
5.10b  
40 Frisky Puppies
-
5.12b  
41 George's Tree
-
5.9 1
42 Cheap Date Variation Finish
-
5.10b *** 2
  Pear Buttress
44 Gina's Surprise
-
5.4 1
45 East Slabs
-
5.6  
46 Northern Lights
-
5.10d  
47 Right Dihedral
-
5.9 1
48 Heavenly Journey
-
5.10b  
49 Fat-Bottomed Groove
-
5.10d  
50 The Whole Thing
-
5.10a  
51 Slippage
-
5.9  
52 Trippage
-
5.10b  
53 Root of All Evil and Sibling Rivalry
-
5.9  
54 Magical Chrome Plated Semi-Automatic Enema Syringe
-
5.6 6
55 L' Chaim 5.7 ** 2
  Sundance Buttress
57 The Nose
-
5.10b  
58 Idiot Wind
-
5.10b 2
59 Turnkorner
-
5.10b 1
60 Mr President
-
5.10d  
61 Bonzo and Chain of Command
-
5.11a  
  Other Buttresses
63 Batman and Robin
-
5.6 6
64 Tennis Shoe Tango
-
5.6 1
65 (The 37th Cog in) Melvin's Wheel 5.8 *** 2
66 Conad's aka Conan's Gonads 5.9 *** 3
67 Cackle Crack 5.8 *** 1
68 Rooster Tail 5.9 ** 1
69 Yosemite Crack 5.9 ** 1
70 Clown Time Is Over 5.9 *** 1
71 Mainliner
-
5.9 *** 1

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