Climbs 124
Rocktype Gneiss
Altitude 27m a.s.l
Faces S

George Thomson on Floating Rib a.k.a. The Pink Panther © jimaye04

Crag features

The biggest crag in the island. Rock is a pink/orange gneiss which tends to form slabs and overlaps (Think of Ochre slab at Bosigran). Some superb lines are here including the classic VS of 'Floating Rib', many are non-tidal.
Some routes are protected by the odd Piton from before 1996, these are deemed untrustworthy.

Rock quality ranges from good to loose, some lines are quite dirty & grassy due to a lack of traffic.

Approach notes

Abseil in recommended, as is getting someone from the GMC to show you the quickest ways down (see www.gmc.org.gg).

'Cato' > 'Mortally Wounded' are non-tidal (if the sea's not rough) and easily accessible by abseiling from a good boulder at the top of 'Floating Rib'.

'Original Route' > 'Grass Trip Direct' are also non-tidal and best accessed using the scramble down to Sea wall.

As Le Bigard stack is climbable on neaps it's an option to setup a tyrolean traverse to get back to dry land - there may be a big sling in place on the stack halfway down to tie onto.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Sunset Bay
2 Trundler's Corner
-
HVS 5a  
3 Paternoster
-
HVS 4c  
4 A Touch Too Much
-
VS 4c  
5 Back 'n' Foot to Oblivion
-
VD  
6 Kiwi Crack
-
D  
7 Nowt
-
E1 5b *  
8 Next to Nowt
-
VS 5a  
9 Sunspot
-
VS 4c  
10 Hash
-
VD  
11 Sunset Crack
-
S  
12 Mantleshelf
-
S  
13 Sunset Flute
-
HS 4b  
14 Rock Punk
-
VD  
15 Drainpipe Crack VS 4c  
16 Rat out of Hell a.k.a. Guttersnipe E4 6b  
17 Wall Street Shuffle
-
E3 6a ***  
18 Shaking Flakes
-
HVS 5b **  
19 Oil Drum
-
S  
20 Bottletop
-
HS 4b  
  Corbiere Slab
22 Vandal
-
E1 5b  
23 Retire to Guernsey E1 5b * 1
24 Cacafuego
-
VS 5a  
25 Astroglide
-
S 2
26 Spitfire
-
E1 5b  
27 Pink Haze
-
D 1
28 Deceitful Lady
-
VS 4b  
29 Quick Retreat
-
S 1
  Corbiere Stack
31 Libra
-
VS 5b  
32 Footloose
-
VS 4c  
33 Rufous
-
E1 5b *  
34 Emma
-
S  
35 Emma Variation
-
VS 4b  
36 Harlequin
-
HVS 5a  
37 Masquerade
-
HVS 5a *  
38 Tumble
-
HVS 5a  
39 Gelert's Groove
-
HVS 5a * 1
40 Gelert's Groove - Direct Finish
-
none  
41 Corbomight E6 6b **  
42 The Bean
-
VS 5a  
43 Bean and Gone VS 5a  
44 Freebee
-
S 4b  
45 Edgehog S  
Climb name Grade
46 The Jam
-
HS 4b  
  Main Cliff
48 Brief Encounter HVS 4c  
49 Virgo
-
S  
50 Easy Groove
-
D  
51 Off-shore Trades VS 4b  
52 Blitz
-
HVS 4c  
53 Jericho Jazz
-
VS 4b 1
54 Ad Infinitum
-
E1 5b  
55 Le Chien Bodu
-
E2 5b *  
56 Crown of Thorns E1 5b *** 6
57 King of the Jews
-
E2 5b **  
58 Boogie to Bethlehem HVS 5a * 1
59 Autumn Madness
-
E1 5b *  
60 Indian Summer
-
E1 5b *** 1
61 Botany Bay
-
S  
62 Wolf In Sheep's Clothing
-
E3 6a  
63 Lefthand crack
-
M 2
64 Centre Crack
-
HS 4b 2
65 Righthand crack
-
M 1
66 Cato
-
HVS 5a *  
67 Chicken Run E3 5c *  
68 Rabbit Run
-
E3 5c *  
69 Fracture VS 5a 5
70 Spare Rib VS 4c 5
71 Straw Dogs
-
E3 6a * 1
72 The Lynx HVS 5a *** 5
73 Floating Rib a.k.a. Pink Panther VS 4c ** 22
74 Cassolette
-
HS 4a  
75 Clouseau
-
HVS 5a *  
76 Incision E1 5b  
77 Partners in Crime E2 6a 1
78 999 HS 4b 17
79 Harelip
-
VS 4c  
80 666
-
HVS 5a  
81 Pink Pussy
-
VD 1
82 Morendo Wall
-
E1 5b *  
83 Mortally wounded E3 5b *  
84 The Blowhole S * 2
85 Blowout
-
HVS 5a  
  Central Slab
87 Original Route VD 2
88 Campion
-
HVS 4c *  
89 Climb with no name HVS 5a  
90 Cat's Cradle
-
HVS 5a  
Climb name Grade
  Central Buttress
92 Central Buttress Climb
-
HS 4b  
93 The Golden Fleece
-
E1 5a  
94 Handful of Dust
-
S 4b  
95 Pitch Black
-
VS 5a  
96 A Fistfull of Dollars HVS 4c  
97 Crushed Asian Traverse
-
E1 5b *  
  Grass Trip area
99 Grass Trip HS 4b * 4
100 Grass Trip Direct VS 4c 4
101 Project - above grass trip none  
  Le Bigard Stack
103 Nester's Crack
-
HS 4b  
104 Swing'in in the Rain
-
VS 4c 3
105 Mafioso
-
HVS 5b  
106 Dark Secret
-
S 7
107 Le Bigard Arete
-
VS 5a  
108 Spirit of the Age
-
HVS 5a ***  
109 Animal Magic HVS 5a ** 1
110 Sarcophagus HVS 5a * 1
111 The Roaring Silence
-
VS 5a ** 4
112 Damnation Alley
-
E1 5c  
113 Quasar
-
HVS 5a  
114 Blinded by the Light
-
D 3
115 Birdy Franklin
-
HVS 5b  
  Sea Wall
117 Highwayman
-
HVS 5a  
118 Yellow Peril
-
HVS 5a  
119 Deception
-
E1 5b  
120 The Undercover Man
-
HVS 4c  
121 Bohu
-
E1 5b  
122 Stormy Sunday
-
HVS 5b  
123 Lazy Sunday
-
S 8
124 Electric Horseman
-
HVS 5a  
125 Speed Freak
-
HVS 5a * 7
126 Topectomy Crack
-
HVS 5a 4
127 Thunder
-
S 8
128 Lightning
-
S 4a *** 10
129 The Flasher
-
HVS 5a  
130 No Rest for the Wicked
-
HVS 5a * 2
131 A Fetish for Fur
-
HVS 5a  
132 Backbender S 4a 2
  Unsorted

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