Climbs 68
Rocktype Gneiss

Faces SW

First ascent of the E7 variation © Toerag

Crag features

A superb atmospheric venue of fine-textured solid blue Perelle Gneiss with some excellent climbs. Highly recommended.
Most routes are partially or fully non-tidal.
Many routes have the odd Piton for protection which have been in place since before 1996 and are deemed untrustworthy. If you wish to do a route with piton protection the crag moderator has some pegs and a hammer.
Topos on
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Approach notes

Care needed on approach while traversing above the back of the zawn, the easiest way down to sea level is via the western side and Zawn entrance. Fishermen sometimes leave a rope on the descent scramble. Park in the gravel carpark by the large German tower on the side of the cliff above the Zawn. The turn-off to this carpark is not marked on many maps, but there are some flat concrete slabs occasionally covered by piles of hardcore next to the turnoff. 10 minute walk and scramble in. No bird restrictions, but seagulls nest above the climbs and on the scramble down. The big storms of 2013/14 have moved the boulders round in the bottom of the zawn, but most climbs do not appear to have been affected. Helmets strongly recommended in case a member of the public throws a stone down into the zawn!

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Outside the Zawn 
2Pearly gates
HVS 4c 2
3Rub Some Dirt On ItE5 6b 1
E1 5c 3
5Cream Teaze
E1 5a 7
6Auk Chasm
VS 15
E1 5b 3
8Mad Dog Rides Again
E2 5c 5
9Vermicious KnidVS 4b 2
D 18
HS 4b 23
12The TetradE1 5a 4
13Shot in the Dark
S 27
14Riders on the Storm
E1 5b 12
15StormbringerVS 4c 8
 Western wall of the Zawn 
17Medium RareE2 5b  
18Sunburnt Finish
VS 5a 6
19BorderlineE2 5b 1
20Styx TripE3 6a 1
21HadesE3 5c ***12
22Hades Left-hand finishE3 5c?  
23Fallen Angel DirectE3 5b **2
24Fallen AngelE2 5b 2
25Titanium StripperE3 6a *1
26After the Gold-rushE1 5b ***22
27Corridors of Power direct finish
E4 6a **1
28Corridors of PowerE3 6a *2
29Corridors of Power directE4 5c/6a  
30ProcrastinationE3 5c * 
31Chockstone Chimney
HS 4b 16
32TaoE3 5c ** 
33Rat TrapVS 4c 19
34Sledge Hammer
E3 5c ** 
35Trail of Deception : Sledgehammer start
E2 5b  
E3 5c ** 
37Trail of Deception
E2 5b 2
38Path of RighteousnessE5 6a 1
39A Guernsey DoubleE6 6b ** 
40Project - out of the depths of the zawnXS 6?  
 Eastern wall of the Zawn 
42Soleil Du MidiE4 6a  
43NightshiftE5 6a ** 
E4 6b *2
45Space Invader
E1 5b *4
46Interstellar Overdrive
E1 5b *6
47The Black HoleHVS 5a *10
48Outer SpaceE4 6a **1
49The Gneiss GirlsE6 6b ** 
50Gneis Gorilla Direct startE4 5c 1
51Gneiss Gorilla
E2 5b *3
52ChimpVS 4b **16
53Crossing the Rubicon
E2 5b  
54Crossing the Rubicon : Breathless start
E1 5b **1
55Asthmatic ChimpHVS 5b **1
HVS 5b ***14
E2 5b  
58Rock of AgesHVS 5a ***31
59The Mirken
E1 5b 2
60Slimy Squeeze
S 1
61Vapour trailHVS 5a 1
VS 4c 1
63The SextonE2 5b  
 Opposite Gull Stack 
65Liquidity Preference
66Wall Street
HVS 5a  
67Traded option
68Small Fry
69Insider Deal
HS 4b  
HS 4a  
71Middle Age spread
72You're Like This
S 4c  

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers Toerag and jimaye04