Climbs 68
Rocktype Gneiss

Faces SW

First ascent of the E7 variation © Toerag

Crag features

A superb atmospheric venue of fine-textured solid blue Perelle Gneiss with some excellent climbs. Highly recommended.
Most routes are partially or fully non-tidal.
Many routes have the odd Piton for protection which have been in place since before 1996 and are deemed untrustworthy. If you wish to do a route with piton protection the crag moderator has some pegs and a hammer.
Topos on www.gmc.org.gg
If you submit routes for inclusion please ensure you have the first ascentionist details.

Approach notes

Care needed on approach while traversing above the back of the zawn, the easiest way down to sea level is via the western side and Zawn entrance. Fishermen sometimes leave a rope on the descent scramble. Park in the gravel carpark by the large German tower on the side of the cliff above the Zawn. The turn-off to this carpark is not marked on many maps, but there are some flat concrete slabs occasionally covered by piles of hardcore next to the turnoff. 10 minute walk and scramble in. No bird restrictions, but seagulls nest above the climbs and on the scramble down. The big storms of 2013/14 have moved the boulders round in the bottom of the zawn, but most climbs do not appear to have been affected. Helmets strongly recommended in case a member of the public throws a stone down into the zawn!

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Outside the Zawn
2 Pearly gates
-
HVS 4c 2
3 Rub Some Dirt On It E5 6b 1
4 Climax
-
E1 5c 3
5 Cream Teaze
-
E1 5a 8
6 Auk Chasm
-
VS 16
7 Chunder
-
E1 5b 3
8 Mad Dog Rides Again
-
E2 5c 5
9 Vermicious Knid VS 4b 2
10 Dodo
-
D 19
11 Smurf
-
HS 4b 24
12 The Tetrad E1 5a 4
13 Shot in the Dark
-
S 28
14 Riders on the Storm
-
E1 5b 13
15 Stormbringer VS 4c 8
  Western wall of the Zawn
17 Medium Rare E2 5b  
18 Sunburnt Finish
-
VS 5a 7
19 Borderline E2 5b 1
20 Styx Trip E3 6a 1
21 Hades E3 5c *** 10
22 Hades Left-hand finish E3 5c?  
23 Fallen Angel Direct E3 5b ** 2
24 Fallen Angel E2 5b 2
25 Titanium Stripper E3 6a * 1
26 After the Gold-rush E1 5b *** 23
27 Corridors of Power direct finish
-
E4 6a ** 1
28 Corridors of Power E3 6a * 2
29 Corridors of Power direct E4 5c/6a  
30 Procrastination E3 5c *  
31 Chockstone Chimney
-
HS 4b 16
32 Tao E3 5c **  
33 Rat Trap VS 4c 21
34 Sledge Hammer
-
E3 5c **  
35 Trail of Deception : Sledgehammer start
-
E2 5b  
36 Valediction
-
E3 5c **  
37 Trail of Deception
-
E2 5b 2
38 Path of Righteousness E5 6a 1
39 A Guernsey Double E6 6b **  
40 Project - out of the depths of the zawn XS 6?  
  Eastern wall of the Zawn
42 Soleil Du Midi E4 6a  
43 Nightshift E5 6a **  
44 Nemesis
-
E4 6b * 2
45 Space Invader
-
E1 5b * 4
46 Interstellar Overdrive
-
E1 5b * 6
47 The Black Hole HVS 5a * 10
48 Outer Space E4 6a ** 1
49 The Gneiss Girls E6 6b **  
50 Gneis Gorilla Direct start E4 5c 1
51 Gneiss Gorilla
-
E2 5b * 3
52 Chimp VS 4b ** 16
53 Crossing the Rubicon
-
E2 5b  
54 Crossing the Rubicon : Breathless start
-
E1 5b ** 1
55 Asthmatic Chimp HVS 5b ** 1
56 Breathless
-
HVS 5b *** 14
57 Witless
-
E2 5b  
58 Rock of Ages HVS 5a *** 33
59 The Mirken
-
E1 5b 2
60 Slimy Squeeze
-
S 1
61 Vapour trail HVS 5a 1
62 Orca
-
VS 4c 2
63 The Sexton E2 5b  
  Opposite Gull Stack
65 Liquidity Preference
-
VD  
66 Wall Street
-
HVS 5a  
67 Traded option
-
VD 1
68 Small Fry a.k.a. You're Like This S 4c 1
69 Insider Deal
-
HS 4b  
70 Footsie
-
HS 4a  
71 Middle Age spread
-
D  
  Unsorted

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