Climbs 176
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 100m a.s.l
Faces W

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Concretion © Oliver Buxton

Crag features

Unquarried limestone, generally sound, single pitch routes, many of outstanding quality, 10-30 metres. A couple of routes are over graded but some are hard for their grade - Touch The Fire (E2 5c) is no pushover. Majority of routes HVS-E2. Descent by abseil from trees. 60m rope necessary for some routes if single-roping. Beware loose rock at cliff top.

Approach notes

Park for free at the Lower Wireworks public car park (Behind the Royal George Hotel NP16 6TQ), which is a little closer than the pay and display at Tintern Abbey, walk back to the A466 and head NW for about 50 metres turning right after the Abbey Mill down a lane that leads foot bridge over the river. Follow the level track until metal posts on the left indicate a steep path. Follow the path, taking the rightmost option at every fork to reach a forestry track after about 25 minutes walk. Turn R onto the forestry track, and carry on for about 500 metres where a sign "R4" is visible on the LHS. This access path leads to "Tigers Don't Cry" on Abbey Buttress at the L end of the crag.
For other buttresses, either (i) follow the crag path rightwards, or (ii) continue on the forestry track until a sign R3a indicates the access route to Great Central Cave Area. Beyond this R3,R2 & R1 lead to Pinnacle Wall, The White Towers & Hit and Run Buttress respectively. Note: bring head torches - you don't want to scramble down in the dark.

If you access from the Tintern Quarry parking please do not block any of the gates. These are very important to facilitated the access of emergency services in case of an emergency so it can save your own life.

Yesterday (11/07/2016) we had an accident at The White Towers. Trying to climb Cultural Revolution a block came off, a protection popped and my climbing partner hit the ground with a bit of slow down from the protection that hold. Extraction was tricky and involved paramedics, rope rescue and a couple of teams of firemen. He is fine now, just one vertebra broken and a nasty cut in his leg. In the same route just at the top of the initial corner we found a massive block that is about to come off. I am planning to come back, recover the gear left and clean up. In the meantime I would suggest to avoid the route and "The Little White Tower" area in general. Also note it is very important not to block the wooden gate if you park at Tintern Quarry parking as it facilitated the access of emergency services.
FerClimbs - 11/Jul/16
A warning has been posted on the forums about a rockfall on the upper reaches of "Llamas in the Loft" (The Buttress with No Name) - it may be worth avoiding this (fairly poor) route for the moment Rick
Rick Sewards - 13/Apr/15
My friend fell of "Hit and Run" (E2) in the hit and run area (R1) today and hit the deck from twenty meters all gear was left on route if you are next up please contact felixottey@gmail.com to return it. The kit left institute may become part of a police investigation. 07879084688 is my contact number Felix.
Felix Ottey - 15/Jun/14
A really brilliant crag. Perfect for high volume days of climbing. I dont think i've actually climbed a bad route here. Most routes are very safe. Well deserving of it's reputation as a softly graded venue. Though there's a few stiff routes to keep you on your toes.
Kemics - 24/Jun/13
I'm not convinced about the star distribution at Shorn cliff, as nearly all the rock and routes are good. I don't think there is one route that is truly worth three stars but then i think there are many that are worth one and certainly a lot that are worth two.
Mark Davies PK - 11/Oct/09
Thread Security (VS 5a) - 2/3rds of the way up a massive block (4ft high) has slipped down about a foot or so and a large, wheel sized flying saucer of rock is just resting against it. I'd go as far as saying don't climb this route becuase these rocks are going to go big style.
Dax - 25/Mar/09
Climbed "Thread Security - The Buttress with No Name" today. 2/3rds of the way up a massive block (4ft high) has slipped down about a foot or so recently and a large wheel sized flying saucer of rock is just resting against it. I'd go as far as saying don't climb this route becuase these rocks are going to go big style.
Dax - 21/Mar/09
Did Laughing Cavaliers HVS on 19th May. Awesome route. There is now a huge fallen tree at the foot of the cliff, which looks like it has fallen from the very top of the route. The big flake at the top still feels very solid but the loss of the tree might have compromised its long term stability.
lmarenzi - 22/May/08
take lots of small wires and quickdraws
Dr Caterpillar - 04/Aug/07
Re: above comment -Wall cleaned up nicely - Did "Iron Curtain", definately a worthwhile VS, "Another brick in the wall" looks ok as well.
The Pylon King - 17/Mar/07
The section of the crag between Dirty Harry and Organ Grinder has recently been stripped of its ivy. The routes will now be a much more pleasant proposition! I've not climbed any of them myself yet, but they look worth the effort.
katonka - 19/Oct/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Abbey Buttress
2 Petit Mort
-
E3 5c 4
3 On Reflection
-
VS 4c 1
4 One Way Glass
-
E2 6a 1
5 Gorillas in the Garden
-
HVS 5a 6
6 Lazy L
-
VS 4c 46
7 Edge Game
-
HVS 5a 4
8 Wet Sunday
-
VS 4b 8
9 Birth Canal + Wet Sunday
-
E3 5b 3
10 Gargoyle HS 4b 464
11 Alta Vista VS 4c 314
12 Party Piece E3 6a * 40
13 Beeline VS 4c 87
14 Rumble in the Jungle HVS 5a 71
15 The Bone E1 5b ** 555
16 Pooh Sticks E1 5b ** 277
17 A Bolt from the Blue
-
E3 5c 8
18 Tigers Don't Cry HVS 5a *** 717
19 Three Score Years and Ten E6 6b 6
20 Acoustic VD * 681
21 Intravenous Feeding VS 4c 96
22 Social Criticism
-
E1 5b * 149
23 Side Effects E1 5b ** 199
24 Hydraulic Jump VS 4c * 439
25 Brain Washed
-
E4 6a  
26 Self Defence VS 4c 11
  The Buttress with No Name
28 Rule the Roost VS 4b  
29 The Orphan E1 5b 33
30 Heavy Plant Crossing VS 4c * 281
31 Alone in a Crowd
-
HVS 5b * 124
32 Breech Birth E1 5b 45
33 The Long Reach
-
HVS 5a * 139
34 Artificial Insemination HVS 5a 47
35 Indecisive Victory
-
HS 4b 240
36 Llamas in the Loft
-
HVS 5a 15
37 Thread Security VS 5a 30
38 Probing in the Dark
-
HVS 5b 26
39 Secret Identity VS 4c * 308
40 Dirty Harry
-
HS 4b 172
41 Aquatic Cyclist VS 5a 25
42 Gnarly old Men E5 6a 2
43 Today you shall be with me in paradise E4 6a * 1
  The Berlin Wall
45 Name in the Book
-
E1 5b * 77
46 East to West HS 4b 99
47 The Iron Curtain VS 4c * 533
48 Another Brick in the Wall VS 4c 94
49 Defection
-
HVS 4c 7
50 Dictator HVS 5a * 182
51 Traitor E1 5a * 136
52 Temporary Truce VS 4c * 479
53 Organ Grinder HVS 5a ** 631
54 Five Pints
-
E3 6a 14
55 Kill the Tories HVS 5a 1
  Fallen Block Buttress
57 Jug? What Jug?!
-
VS 4c 68
58 One Less White Nigger VS 4c ** 651
59 Emotional Dyslexia HVS 5a ** 585
60 Emotional Dyslexia direct start
-
E1 5a ** 22
61 Night Rider HS 4b * 499
62 Green Meanie
-
E3 5c * 41
Climb name Grade
  Tiger Bay
64 Motion Pictures E1 5b *** 601
65 Touch the Fire E2 5c ** 344
66 Last Call VS 5a * 214
67 Cruisin' for a Bruisin'
-
E1 5b 4
68 Intermission HS 4b 104
69 Wolf Whistle S * 264
70 Trouble Brewing
-
E3 6a 9
71 Cry Wolf VD 184
72 Dazed and Confused S 9
73 Three Bananas HVS 4c 5
74 Jenny's Route S 4a 4
75 Let England Shake E1 5c 3
76 Pump it up... Again E2 5b 8
77 Renaissance
-
E1 5b ** 236
78 Bursting the Renaissance Bubble
-
HVS 5a * 22
79 Bubble Memory HVS 5a ** 191
80 One Step Down
-
E1 5a 10
81 Streaker
-
HVS 5a 1
82 ...Think of England Direct
-
E1 5b * 13
  Great Central Cave Area
84 ...Think of England
-
VS 4c 9
85 Damsel in Distress
-
VS 4c 21
86 Lucky Star
-
E1 5b 2
87 Yer Money or Yer Life
-
VS 4c 9
88 Che Guevara HVS 5a ** 9
89 Stand and Deliver
-
E1 5b ** 176
90 Ironside's Men
-
E2 5b ** 224
91 The Spanish Inquisition
-
E1 5a * 146
92 Treason
-
HVS 5a * 108
93 All for One...
-
HVS 5a ** 437
94 Bitter Battle Tears HVS 5a *** 984
95 A King's Ransom
-
E3 6a 22
96 Lost Cavaliers Tears HVS 5a ** 12
97 The Laughing Cavaliers HVS 5a *** 1466
98 No Musketeers HVS 5a *** 623
99 No Musketeers (Direct Finish) E1 5c *** 393
100 My Normal Face HVS 4c * 3
101 Roundhead's Revenge E1 5c 3
102 ...One for All HS 4b ** 1346
103 War is Declared E1 5b 6
104 The New Republic HVS 5a * 25
105 Armistice
-
VS 4b 7
106 No Surrender
-
VS 4c 4
107 War of the Worlds VS 4c * 504
108 Peace in Our Time HVS 5a 61
109 The Phoney War HS 4b * 895
110 Rebellion
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E1 5b * 171
111 State of Independence VS 4b ** 937
112 Seven Chinese Brothers
-
E1 5a  
113 Oogmuts
-
E3 5b  
114 Much Ado About Nothing
-
E1 5a * 17
115 Complex Variable
-
E1 5a 2
116 All in a Day's Work
-
E2 5c 1
117 The Land of Nod E2 5c 3
118 Wet Dreams
-
E1 4c 2
  Fallacy Buttress
120 Fallacy HVS 5a * 202
121 Expectant Chimp E4 5c 4
122 Lundy Calling
-
E4 5c *** 116
123 The English Opium Eaters E6 6b 16
124 Cool Heat E2 5b * 146
Climb name Grade
125 Colour Dreams/Dream Topping Finish
-
E1 5a 1
126 Protoplasm
-
E4 6b  
127 The Numbers Game
-
E1 5c  
128 Paroxysm
-
E2 5b  
129 White Water
-
VS 4c  
130 Walk Don't Run
-
VS 4c  
131 A Is for Apple
-
HS 4a 2
132 B Is for Bag E3 5c  
  The Pinnacle Wall
134 The Pinnacle of Success VS 4b 13
135 Stuck on You
-
E1 5b * 76
136 A Stitch in Time
-
E1 5b * 46
137 The Hit
-
E3 6a 11
138 Freak Brother Convention
-
E2 5b  
139 Relics
-
E1 5b 5
140 Second Wind
-
E2 5c * 21
141 Higher Flier
-
E1 5b 1
142 Femme Fatale
-
E1 5a 1
143 Smart Arse
-
E2 5b * 5
144 Insurrection
-
E2 5c * 1
145 Symbiosis
-
E1 5a  
146 Jungle Rock
-
E2 5b 1
147 Doing the Bop
-
E3 5c  
  Bridle Buttress
149 Blood Brothers
-
E1 5a 7
150 Heart of Stone
-
E1 5a * 48
151 Nosey Bleeder
-
E3 5c 10
152 Run for Home E2 5b ** 241
153 Running on Empty
-
E3 5c * 21
154 Easy Rider
-
E1 5b ** 190
155 Running Hot
-
E2 5c ** 86
156 Loss Of Innocence HVS 5a * 123
157 Fat Man in Ethiopia
-
HVS 5a * 63
158 Turn to Stone
-
VS 4c 6
159 Character Assassination
-
E1 5a 3
160 Pink Ticket
-
HS 4b 4
  The White Towers
162 Cultural Revolution
-
HVS 5a 2
163 The Little White Tower E2 5b  
164 Blanc Wall
-
HVS 5a 1
165 Pretty Baby
-
E2 5b  
166 The White Tower
-
E1 5b 1
  Hit and Run Buttress
168 Hit and Run
-
E2 5b ** 57
169 Chappell of Rest E5 6c  
170 Touche Pussycat
-
E1 5c ** 46
171 Colin's Apprentice
-
E4 6b * 2
172 Cat Be Nimble, Cat Be Quick
-
E2 5c * 9
173 Incredible Voyage
-
HVS 5a 3
174 Poka Dot
-
E2 5c * 6
175 This Space Reserved
-
E1 5b 5
176 Synapse Collapse
-
E4 6a * 2
177 The First Crusade
-
HS 4b 10
178 Ramraider
-
E5 6b * 1
179 A Good Day For Gravity
-
E2 5b/c  
180 Nobby's Piles
-
E2 5c  
181 Mister Angry
-
E2 5c * 1
182 Blind Rage
-
E3 5c  
183 Flatlander
-
E2 5c  
184 Angry Young Men
-
HS 4b 3
185 Santorini
-
VS 4b 1
186 Iron Fly V5 6b * 1

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