Climbs 175
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 100m a.s.l
Faces W

Concretion © Oliver Buxton

Crag features

Unquarried limestone, generally sound, single pitch routes, many of outstanding quality, 10-30 metres. A couple of routes are over graded but some are hard for their grade - Touch The Fire (E2 5c) is no pushover. Majority of routes HVS-E2. Descent by abseil from trees. 60m rope necessary for some routes if single-roping. Beware loose rock at cliff top.

Approach notes

Park at Tintern Abbey, walk along the A466 (NW) for about 500 metres until you can cross the river on a foot bridge. Follow the level track until metal posts on the left indicate a steep path. Follow the path, taking the rightmost option at every fork to reach a forestry track after about 25 minutes walk. Turn R onto the forestry track, and carry on for about 500 metres where a sign "R4" is visible on the LHS. This access path leads to "Tigers Don't Cry" on Abbey Buttress at the L end of the crag.
For other buttresses, either (i) follow the crag path rightwards, or (ii) continue on the forestry track until a sign R3a indicates the access route to Great Central Cave Area. Beyond this R3,R2 & R1 lead to Pinnacle Wall, The White Towers & Hit and Run Buttress respectively. Note: bring head torches - you don't want to scramble down in the dark.

If you access from the Tintern Quarry parking please do not block any of the gates. These are very important to facilitated the access of emergency services in case of an emergency so it can save your own life.

Yesterday (11/07/2016) we had an accident at The White Towers. Trying to climb Cultural Revolution a block came off, a protection popped and my climbing partner hit the ground with a bit of slow down from the protection that hold. Extraction was tricky and involved paramedics, rope rescue and a couple of teams of firemen. He is fine now, just one vertebra broken and a nasty cut in his leg. In the same route just at the top of the initial corner we found a massive block that is about to come off. I am planning to come back, recover the gear left and clean up. In the meantime I would suggest to avoid the route and "The Little White Tower" area in general. Also note it is very important not to block the wooden gate if you park at Tintern Quarry parking as it facilitated the access of emergency services.
FernandoHidalgo - 11/Jul/16
A warning has been posted on the forums about a rockfall on the upper reaches of "Llamas in the Loft" (The Buttress with No Name) - it may be worth avoiding this (fairly poor) route for the moment Rick
Rick Sewards - 13/Apr/15
My friend fell of "Hit and Run" (E2) in the hit and run area (R1) today and hit the deck from twenty meters all gear was left on route if you are next up please contact felixottey@gmail.com to return it. The kit left institute may become part of a police investigation. 07879084688 is my contact number Felix.
Felix Ottey - 15/Jun/14
A really brilliant crag. Perfect for high volume days of climbing. I dont think i've actually climbed a bad route here. Most routes are very safe. Well deserving of it's reputation as a softly graded venue. Though there's a few stiff routes to keep you on your toes.
Kemics - 24/Jun/13
I'm not convinced about the star distribution at Shorn cliff, as nearly all the rock and routes are good. I don't think there is one route that is truly worth three stars but then i think there are many that are worth one and certainly a lot that are worth two.
Mark Davies PK - 11/Oct/09
Thread Security (VS 5a) - 2/3rds of the way up a massive block (4ft high) has slipped down about a foot or so and a large, wheel sized flying saucer of rock is just resting against it. I'd go as far as saying don't climb this route becuase these rocks are going to go big style.
Dax - 25/Mar/09
Climbed "Thread Security - The Buttress with No Name" today. 2/3rds of the way up a massive block (4ft high) has slipped down about a foot or so recently and a large wheel sized flying saucer of rock is just resting against it. I'd go as far as saying don't climb this route becuase these rocks are going to go big style.
Dax - 21/Mar/09
Did Laughing Cavaliers HVS on 19th May. Awesome route. There is now a huge fallen tree at the foot of the cliff, which looks like it has fallen from the very top of the route. The big flake at the top still feels very solid but the loss of the tree might have compromised its long term stability.
lmarenzi - 22/May/08
take lots of small wires and quickdraws
Dr Caterpillar - 04/Aug/07
Re: above comment -Wall cleaned up nicely - Did "Iron Curtain", definately a worthwhile VS, "Another brick in the wall" looks ok as well.
The Pylon King - 17/Mar/07
The section of the crag between Dirty Harry and Organ Grinder has recently been stripped of its ivy. The routes will now be a much more pleasant proposition! I've not climbed any of them myself yet, but they look worth the effort.
katonka - 19/Oct/06
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Abbey Butress
2 Petit Mort
-
E3 5c 4
3 On Reflection
-
VS 4c  
4 One Way Glass
-
E2 6a 1
5 Gorillas in the Garden
-
HVS 5a 4
6 Lazy L
-
VS 4c 45
7 Edge Game
-
HVS 5a 4
8 Wet Sunday
-
VS 4b 8
9 Birth Canal + Wet Sunday
-
E3 5b 3
10 Gargoyle
-
HS 4b 394
11 Alta Vista VS 4c 267
12 Party Piece E3 6a * 33
13 Beeline VS 4c 74
14 Rumble in the Jungle HVS 5a 59
15 The Bone E1 5b ** 471
16 Pooh Sticks E1 5b ** 221
17 A Bolt from the Blue
-
E3 5c 7
18 Tigers Don't Cry HVS 5a *** 656
19 Three Score Years and Ten E6 6b 4
20 Acoustic VD * 590
21 Intravenous Feeding VS 4c 86
22 Social Criticism
-
E1 5b * 128
23 Side Effects E1 5b ** 161
24 Hydraulic Jump VS 4c * 376
25 Brain Washed
-
E4 6a  
26 Self Defence VS 4c 11
  The Butress with No Name
28 Rule the Roost
-
VS 4b  
29 The Orphan E1 5b 23
30 Heavy Plant Crossing
-
VS 4c * 225
31 Alone in a Crowd
-
HVS 5b * 90
32 Breech Birth E1 5b 36
33 The Long Reach
-
HVS 5a * 128
34 Artificial Insemination HVS 5a 42
35 Indecisive Victory
-
HS 4b 206
36 Llamas in the Loft
-
HVS 5a 15
37 Thread Security VS 5a 27
38 Probing in the Dark
-
HVS 5b 23
39 Secret Identity VS 4c * 261
40 Dirty Harry
-
HS 4b 153
41 Aquatic Cyclist
-
VS 5a 23
42 Gnarly old Men E5 6a 2
43 Today you shall be with me in paradise E4 6a * 1
  The Berlin Wall
45 Name in the Book
-
E1 5b * 60
46 East to West HS 4b 90
47 The Iron Curtain
-
VS 4c * 442
48 Another Brick in the Wall VS 4c 89
49 Defection
-
HVS 4c 6
50 Dictator
-
HVS 5a * 138
51 Traitor
-
E1 5a * 111
52 Temporary Truce VS 4c * 374
53 Organ Grinder HVS 5a ** 552
54 Five Pints
-
E3 6a 14
55 Kill the Tories HVS 5a 1
  Fallen Block Buttress
57 Jug? What Jug?!
-
VS 4c 59
58 One Less White Nigger VS 4c ** 567
59 Emotional Dyslexia HVS 5a ** 493
60 Emotional Dyslexia direct start
-
E1 5a ** 18
61 Night Rider HS 4b * 411
62 Green Meanie
-
E3 5c * 37
  Tiger Bay
64 Motion Pictures E1 5b *** 516
65 Touch the Fire E2 5c ** 300
66 Last Call VS 5a * 196
67 Cruisin' for a Bruisin'
-
E1 5b 4
68 Intermission HS 4b 96
69 Wolf Whistle S * 233
70 Trouble Brewing
-
E3 6a 7
71 Cry Wolf VD 168
72 Dazed and Confused S 7
73 Three Bananas HVS 4c 5
74 Fuck the Coalition E1 5c 3
75 Pump it up... Again E2 5b 5
76 Renaissance
-
E1 5b ** 207
77 Bursting the Renaissance Bubble
-
HVS 5a * 17
78 Bubble Memory HVS 5a ** 163
79 One Step Down
-
E1 5a 7
80 Streaker
-
HVS 5a 1
81 ...Think of England Direct
-
E1 5b * 13
  Great Central Cave Area
83 ...Think of England
-
VS 4c 9
84 Damsel in Distress
-
VS 4c 22
85 Lucky Star
-
E1 5b 1
86 Yer Money or Yer Life
-
VS 4c 8
87 Che Guevara HVS 5a ** 8
88 Stand and Deliver
-
E1 5b ** 144
89 Ironside's Men
-
E2 5b ** 212
90 The Spanish Inquisition
-
E1 5a * 131
91 Treason
-
HVS 5a * 96
92 All for One...
-
HVS 5a ** 385
93 Bitter Battle Tears HVS 5a *** 841
94 A King's Ransom
-
E3 6a 21
95 Lost Cavaliers Tears HVS 5a ** 8
96 The Laughing Cavaliers HVS 5a *** 1250
97 No Musketeers HVS 5a *** 556
98 No Musketeers (Direct Finish) E1 5c *** 344
99 My Normal Face HVS 4c * 2
100 Roundhead's Revenge E1 5c 2
101 ...One for All HS 4b ** 1134
102 War is Declared E1 5b 5
103 The New Republic HVS 5a * 23
104 Armistice
-
VS 4b 6
105 No Surrender
-
VS 4c 4
106 War of the Worlds VS 4c * 447
107 Peace in Our Time HVS 5a 57
108 The Phoney War HS 4b * 757
109 Rebellion
-
E1 5b * 150
110 State of Independence VS 4b ** 783
111 Seven Chinese Brothers
-
E1 5a  
112 Oogmuts
-
E3 5b  
113 Much Ado About Nothing
-
E1 5a * 15
114 Complex Variable
-
E1 5a 1
115 All in a Day's Work
-
E2 5c 1
116 The Land of Nod E2 5c 3
117 Wet Dreams
-
E1 4c 2
  Fallacy Buttress
119 Fallacy HVS 5a * 175
120 Expectant Chimp E4 5c 3
121 Lundy Calling
-
E4 5c *** 99
122 The English Opium Eaters E6 6b 16
123 Cool Heat E2 5b * 143
124 Colour Dreams/Dream Topping Finish
-
E1 5a 1
125 Protoplasm
-
E4 6b  
126 The Numbers Game
-
E1 5c  
127 Paroxysm
-
E2 5b  
128 White Water
-
VS 4c  
129 Walk Don't Run
-
VS 4c  
130 A Is for Apple
-
HS 4a 1
131 B Is for Bag E3 5c  
  The Pinnacle Wall
133 The Pinnacle of Success
-
VS 4b 10
134 Stuck on You
-
E1 5b * 68
135 A Stitch in Time
-
E1 5b * 41
136 The Hit
-
E3 6a 11
137 Freak Brother Convention
-
E2 5b  
138 Relics
-
E1 5b 5
139 Second Wind
-
E2 5c * 19
140 Higher Flier
-
E1 5b  
141 Femme Fatale
-
E1 5a 1
142 Smart Arse
-
E2 5b * 4
143 Insurrection
-
E2 5c * 1
144 Symbiosis
-
E1 5a  
145 Jungle Rock
-
E2 5b 1
146 Doing the Bop
-
E3 5c  
  Bridle Buttress
148 Blood Brothers
-
E1 5a 7
149 Heart of Stone
-
E1 5a * 45
150 Nosey Bleeder
-
E3 5c 9
151 Run for Home E2 5b ** 229
152 Running on Empty
-
E3 5c * 22
153 Easy Rider
-
E1 5b ** 166
154 Running Hot
-
E2 5c ** 79
155 Loss Of Innocence HVS 5a * 112
156 Fat Man in Ethiopia
-
HVS 5a * 54
157 Turn to Stone
-
VS 4c 5
158 Character Assassination
-
E1 5a 3
159 Pink Ticket
-
HS 4b 4
  The White Towers
161 Cultural Revolution
-
HVS 5a 2
162 The Little White Tower E2 5b  
163 Blanc Wall
-
HVS 5a 1
164 Pretty Baby
-
E2 5b  
165 The White Tower
-
E1 5b 1
  Hit and Run Buttress
167 Hit and Run
-
E2 5b ** 62
168 Chappell of Rest E5 6c  
169 Touche Pussycat
-
E1 5c ** 50
170 Colin's Apprentice
-
E4 6b * 2
171 Cat Be Nimble, Cat Be Quick
-
E2 5c * 9
172 The First Crusade
-
HS 4b 2
173 Incredible Voyage
-
HVS 5a 3
174 Poka Dot
-
E2 5c * 5
175 This Space Reserved
-
E1 5b 5
176 Synapse Collapse
-
E4 6a * 1
177 The First Crusade
-
HS 4b 8
178 Ramraider
-
E5 6b * 1
179 A Good Day For Gravity
-
E2 5b/c  
180 Nobby's Piles
-
E2 5c  
181 Mister Angry
-
E2 5c * 1
182 Blind Rage
-
E3 5c  
183 Flatlander
-
E2 5c  
184 Angry Young Men
-
HS 4b 3
185 Santorini
-
VS 4b 1
186 Iron Fly V5 6b * 1

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer springfall2008