Climbs 83
Rocktype Schist
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces S

Left on the Shelf © Gary Latter

Crag features

Some excellent wee sport and gear crags as well as boulders scattered throughout the woods near Weem on steep, excellent rock.

Approach notes

When approaching through the woods at Weem, climbers should ensure they stick to paths at all times to avoid any damage to flora and fauna.

Park cars with consideration, and do not block any private tracks or gates.

More trad routes in the new Highland Outcrops South guide although still a bit limited. Aerial Crag is a bit of a bugger to find and would benefit from some pruning of jaggy bushes at the tops of trad routes. Also, Static in the Air is not the three star E36A promised in the new guide, being fully bolted when visited earlier this month. (Will leave the trad vs sport debate for another day and another place.)
frazoir - 12/Oct/16
The main rock is hard to find. Took us ages. Look for a (small) cairn on the side of the trail. Go up over the rocks to reach the cragg. The grid reference for the main cragg is NN844501.
rachelSquirrel - 04/May/14
Anyone know why the climbs on Easter Island buttress are roped/taped off at present?? Also the climbs on Secret Garden crag are inaccessible at the moment due to masses of cut rhodedendrum bushes.. Went there on 25.08.12, and wasn't able to climb. Finding the crags in the woodland at present, is also very difficult (unless you have been previously) due to fallen trees/cut rhodedenrums.
Louise Kelly - 28/Aug/12
The Bouldering in Scotland book has quite clear directions to the bouldering walls, and some nice climbing when you get there, especially on hot days when the shade is very welcome!
Azwhite - 27/May/12
Personally could not find the crag! Watch out for the table and chairs (an important waymarker) described in the guidebook - I don't think they exist anymore.
Kevin Woods - 01/Apr/12
Almost all the grades and stars are wrong for Secret Garden. Gary's Scottish Rock is accurate except for: Missing Link is pointless and easier than Faithless, and Brass Monkeys is F6b+. Crag is a dick to find particularly with chopped rhodendron carnage, but is worth a visit on a fresh dry day.
Fiend - 30/Aug/11
A few of the grades seem questionable and some climbs are not listed in the correct order.
sebrider - 23/May/10
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  the secret garden area
  Manyana Wall
3 Tomorrow Never Comes
-
6b 10
4 Sometime Soon 6a 19
5 Don't do Today what you can do Tomorrow 5c 14
  easter island buttress
7 Looking for a Rainbow VD * 4
8 Left On The Shelf 6c+ 3
9 President Shhean Connery 7a 6
10 The Republic Of Scotland 7a+ * 15
11 Right In The face 6b+ 19
  secret garden crag
13 100 Ways To Be A Good Girl 6c * 12
14 Batweeman 6b * 25
15 Forbidden Fruit 6b+ * 16
16 The Missing Link 6c+ * 4
17 Faithless 6c+ * 10
18 The Watchtower 6c+ ** 7
19 Caledonia Dreaming 6c * 16
20 Don't Knock the Block 6a+ * 3
21 Brass Monkeys 6b 19
  stream wall
23 Justice 7a 3
  Weem Rock Side Wall
25 Every Last Drop 7b * 2
26 One Pig One 7b * 4
27 High Pitched Scream 7a+ *** 131
28 The Screaming Weem 7b *** 68
29 Manga manga 8a **  
30 The Last Gasp 7b+ ** 6
31 The Last Temptation E2 5c ** 32
32 The End of Silence 7b ** 109
33 E.L.S.S 7c *** 3
34 E.L.S.P 7c 1
35 The Real McKay 6a 133
  the front face
37 Back To Basics VS 4c ** 28
38 The Long Good Friday 6c+ *** 53
39 Confession of Faith 6c ** 65
40 Mannpower 6b ** 65
41 On The Tick List E2 5b 4
42 Boomhead 6b 11
43 Staring at the Sun 5c 62
44 The Soup Dragon
-
5a 111
45 Scooby Snacks
-
6a 94
46 One Step Beyond
-
6a 83
47 Down to the Last Heartbreak
-
6a 44
48 The Trial of Brother Number One
-
6a+ 78
49 Lap Dancing 6b+ * 36
50 The Llama Parlour
-
6c 28
51 The Protection Racket
-
6a * 75
52 Lighten Up
-
6a * 76
53 Crowing At The Enemy 6b+ 35
54 Bark Barcherache 6b+ 13
  Hanging rock
56 Remanufacture 7c+ **  
57 Drop Dead Gorgeous E4 6a * 1
58 Crushed By The Wheels Of Industry 7a+ 3
59 The Chemical Generation 7b 6
60 Alien Artifact 7b 3
61 The Glass Ceiling 6c 10
  aerial crag
63 Communication Breakdown E4 6a ** 2
64 Saving Up for a Rainy Day
-
E5 6a *** 4
65 Pawn Channel E1 5c 2
66 Kissing The Witch 6b * 5
67 The Choice Of a New Generation E3 5c  
68 Static In The Air E4 6a ** 3
69 Cracking Good Reception E1 5b * 3
  Bouldering Wall
71 Jungle Formula f5 23
72 In a Flap
-
f5+ 13
73 Lead On f5+ 5
74 Cracked knot
-
f6B * 9
75 Too Hard Too High f6C+ *** 7
76 The Chop f7A ** 29
77 Getting the Chop f7A+ ** 3
78 Too Hard Too Far f7A *** 1
79 Getting Lippy f6C+ * 6
80 The Rest & Be Thankful
-
f5 * 18
81 Palm Life
-
f6B 3
82 The Cop
-
f7A ** 1
83 Green fingers
-
V3 3
84 New Beginnings V2 1
85 40 Minute Man f7A+ ** 1
86 #1? f7B ** 1
87 #2? f7A ** 1
88 #3? f7B+ **  
89 Bro-Down f7C+ ***  
90 Ring Twitching VS 5a ** 1
91 Weirdwood HVS 5b * 1
92 Blinded by the Night HVS 5a * 2
93 Consolation prize f5 ** 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer sheppy