Climbs 100
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 2291m a.s.l
Faces SW

A close encounter with a Marmot after bailing from the Big Micheluzzi.....Caption Comp? © RobbieT

Crag features

The south side of Piz Ciavazes is one of the most impressive and accessible faces in the Dolomites. Though the full length of the face can be climbed, most routes end at the mid-height terrace of the Gamsband (Chamois Terrace) because of poor quality rock on the upper half. This gives rise to a number of excellent moderate length multi-pitch routes. The Big Micheluzzi, Little Micheluzzi and Schubert/Route of Friendship are all Dolomite classics, though many other less famous routes on the face are just as good. The initial few pitches of the routes do have a slightly vegetated feel but this improves with height. There is also some single pitch sport available though in truth it doesn't compare with the quality of the longer routes here, or with the sport routes found at the nearby Città di Sassi (page 210). The aspect of the crag means that the face dries quickly with the exception of the Buhl Direct. This also means the face is best avoided on the hottest days of the year in midsummer.

Approach notes

Easy access from the Sella Pass.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

The Dolomites : Rock Climbs and Via Ferrata

A big book to the magnificent Dolomites in northern Italy. This guide covers everything you need for a climbing trip regardless of ability, whether it be sport, trad, via ferrata or a combination of all three. It features all the major areas and is the only guidebook available to have such comprehensive coverage.
More info
There are no comments from visitors to this crag.
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  South Face - Left
2 Zeni Corner VII ** 7
3 Non ci resta che piangere 7a *  
4 Via Italia '61 8a ** 1
5 Rossi IV ** 41
6 Via Delle Guide VI- ** 10
  South Face
8 Via Priz 7b ** 2
9 Roberta 83 7a *** 13
10 Peperoncino 6c *** 2
11 Baci da Honolulu + Alfa 7b+ ***  
12 Tabasco 6c ** 1
13 Big Micheluzzi VI *** 73
14 Buhl Direct VI+ * 6
15 Schubert/Route of Friendship VI- *** 58
16 Little Micheluzzi V- *** 81
17 Labirinto Giallo 6c ***  
18 Little Micheluzzi Direct Start V- *** 12
19 Via Irma VII- ** 7
20 Rampa del Torso IV ** 37
21 Via le moto dal Sella 7a+ *** 1
  South Face - Right
23 Ivo 4a 6
24 Paradiso 4a 4
25 Spigolo 5a * 3
26 Prenatal 6c *  
27 Ein Tirol 7b *  
28 Triceratops 7b+ *  
29 Pace a Sarajevo 7c+ *  
30 Sika climb 7b+ **  
31 Esito incerto 7c *  
32 Twenty Nine 7a  
33 Papa Giovanni Paolo II 6c ** 7
34 Il grande max 4c 7
35 Pastina 4c * 11
36 Monica 4c * 8
37 Elisabetta 6a 6
38 6b Con Un Braccio 6a * 6
39 L'indocina dentro 5a 6
40 Voce azzurra 4a 5
41 Pietro torna indietro 5a 1
42 Sika Crime 5b * 1
43 Vertical affecionado 6b  
44 Amore a prima vista 6c *  
45 Mistral noir 6a+  
46 Tres Joli 6a+ * 3
47 Non c'e due senza te 7b *  
48 Call girl 6c *  
49 Project One ?  
50 Cuore di pietra 6b+ ** 2
51 Renato Reali 6a * 1
52 Rock and Wall 6a * 2
53 Volo annunciato 5a * 4
54 Don Gaetano 5b 2
55 Power is Nothing 6c * 1
56 Sport senza Frontiere 6c * 1
57 Globetrotter 6b+ * 1
58 Abram VII *** 24
  Above Chamois Terrace
60 South-West Diedre - Vinatzer
-
TD 7
61 La Lavagna VII- *** 1

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer James Rushforth