Climbs 100
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 2291m a.s.l
Faces SW

A close encounter with a Marmot after bailing from the Big Micheluzzi.....Caption Comp? © RobbieT

Crag features

The south side of Piz Ciavazes is one of the most impressive and accessible faces in the Dolomites. Though the full length of the face can be climbed, most routes end at the mid-height terrace of the Gamsband (Chamois Terrace) because of poor quality rock on the upper half. This gives rise to a number of excellent moderate length multi-pitch routes. The Big Micheluzzi, Little Micheluzzi and Schubert/Route of Friendship are all Dolomite classics, though many other less famous routes on the face are just as good. The initial few pitches of the routes do have a slightly vegetated feel but this improves with height. There is also some single pitch sport available though in truth it doesn't compare with the quality of the longer routes here, or with the sport routes found at the nearby Città di Sassi (page 210). The aspect of the crag means that the face dries quickly with the exception of the Buhl Direct. This also means the face is best avoided on the hottest days of the year in midsummer.

Approach notes

Easy access from the Sella Pass.

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The Dolomites : Rock Climbs and Via Ferrata

A big book to the magnificent Dolomites in northern Italy. This guide covers everything you need for a climbing trip regardless of ability, whether it be sport, trad, via ferrata or a combination of all three. It features all the major areas and is the only guidebook available to have such comprehensive coverage.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 South Face - Left 
2Zeni CornerVII **7
3Non ci resta che piangere7a * 
4Via Italia '618a **1
5RossiIV **32
6Via Delle GuideVI- **4
 South Face 
8Via Priz7b **2
9Roberta 837a ***6
10Peperoncino6c ***2
11Baci da Honolulu + Alfa7b+ *** 
12Tabasco6c **1
13Big MicheluzziVI ***60
14Buhl DirectVI+ *4
15Schubert/Route of FriendshipVI- ***46
16Little MicheluzziV- ***73
17Labirinto Giallo6c *** 
18Little Micheluzzi Direct StartV- ***10
19Via IrmaVII- **5
20Rampa del TorsoIV **30
21Via le moto dal Sella7a+ ***1
 South Face - Right 
23Ivo4a 4
24Paradiso4a 2
25Spigolo5a *3
26Prenatal6c * 
27Ein Tirol7b * 
28Triceratops7b+ * 
29Pace a Sarajevo7c+ * 
30Sika climb7b+ ** 
31Esito incerto7c * 
32Twenty Nine7a  
33Papa Giovanni Paolo II6c **5
34Il grande max4c 5
35Pastina4c *6
36Monica4c *2
37Elisabetta6a 4
386b Con Un Braccio6a *4
39L'indocina dentro5a 4
40Voce azzurra4a 1
41Pietro torna indietro5a 1
42Sika Crime5b *1
43Vertical affecionado6b  
44Amore a prima vista6c * 
45Mistral noir6a+  
46Tres Joli6a+ *3
47Non c'e due senza te7b * 
48Call girl6c * 
49Project One?  
50Cuore di pietra6b+ **1
51Renato Reali6a *1
52Rock and Wall6a *1
53Volo annunciato5a *1
54Don Gaetano5b 2
55Power is Nothing6c *1
56Sport senza Frontiere6c *1
57Globetrotter6b+ *1
58AbramVII ***18
 Above Chamois Terrace 
60South-West Diedre - Vinatzer
TD 6
61La LavagnaVII- ***1

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