Climbs 123
Rocktype Schist
Altitude 200m a.s.l

Smithy on Poss first accent? © sairfeet

Crag features

Although no longer Scotland's Premier Sport Climbing area the Ogle valley still holds an attractive selection of mainly short, powerful sport climbs. Some of the crags especially on the Dark Side are little visited these days which is a shame as many gems lie hidden on the hillside. What you get with Glen Ogle is generally steep, often excellent climbing on fairly spaced bolts. At the time of writing (June 2010) some of the bolts on the wetter crags are in a questionable condition and careful inspection is recommended.

Expect a fair bit of bushwacking between buttresses if coming in high summer especially on the Sunny side as the bracken is relentless in its growth!

Good bouldering can be found spread across the area.

Approach notes

Many birds nest in the Glen Ogle area.

Contact the MC of S, http://www.mountaineering-scotland.org.uk/ to get up-to-date informtation, and ensure you adhere to any bans in force.

Easier routes on The Diamond and all routes on the Galleon are unclimbably dirty apart from Metal Guru and Old Wives Tale. Some bolting is poor and some loweroffs are awful. The main wall on The Diamond is in good condition at time of writing.
Fiend - 20/Jul/13
My second visit to the crag (sunny side) over the last couple of years. The sectors I've been to are generally slab like or vertical in nature, difficult to read (quite blind at times) and although weak at the moment, relatively sandbag. Despite this the location is fantastic on a good day with stunning vistas down the glen from many of the crags. Some of the hangers are a little rusty, but that's to be expected for crags exposed to the elements such as these. The walk in hasn't got any better and if you want good weather you'll have to persevere with bracket bashing to get to a sheep track which makes things a little easier. Alternatively hope someone has been up there recently to trample it all down! Again I won't rush back but as I'm from the area originally and still have family nearby, never say never. Interested in trying the dark side although concerned about the hangers as this side always appear to be wet and the bolts are pretty old.
ANC - 02/Jul/13
Some superb climbing on Creag Nan Cuileann if blind, slopey, lichenous pockets are your thing!
Smelly Fox - 11/Jun/11
Wading through dead bracken was the most memorable part of my visit to this crag. The routes are all utterly desperate, particularly given the amount of water running down the rocks. If it hadn't been fantastic weather, with a glorious view from the crag, I'd have been somewhat disgruntled about the effort I made to get there. Next time I go to Lochearnhead, I'll stick to bagging Munros.
Annette - 09/Nov/09
Walk in to the Warm Up crag is horrible. Uphill through a jungle of bracken. Not really worth it in my opinion unless you plan on taking a petrol powered strimmer with you. Guide book description is also rubbish. Parking for Warm Up crag is in the big layby leading to a gate into a field.
climberuk - 23/Aug/09
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Bond Buttress (Dark Side)
2 Solitaire
-
8a+ *** 1
3 Scaramanga 7a+ *** 4
4 Boldfinger
-
7a+ **  
  Rainmaker Buttress
6 The End Justifies the Means 7b+ **  
7 Power Shower 7b+ *  
  The Diamond (Dark Side)
9 Midge Patrol
-
6b * 4
10 Easy Over 7a 3
11 Digital Quartz 8b **  
12 Cease Fire 8a+ **  
13 The Link 7c+ 1
14 Spiral Tribe
-
8a+ *** 1
15 Off the Beaten Track
-
8a ** 4
16 Children of the Revolution 7b * 1
17 Chain Lightning 7c *** 7
18 One In The Eye For The Stick Men 7a+ ** 7
19 Old Wives Tail 6b ** 6
20 Metal Guru 6c+ ** 7
21 Gross Indecency 7c  
22 Trossachs Trundler 7c  
23 After the Flood 6c * 3
24 Arc of a Diver 6c ** 1
25 Climb and Punishment 7b+  
26 Wristy Business 6c+ * 2
27 Raspberry Beret 6b+ * 2
28 Ship Ahoy 6b 1
  The Rave
30 The Edge of Ecstasy 6c * 1
31 Rush 7a * 1
32 Raving Lunatics 7b * 2
33 Recreational Chemistry 6c+ * 2
  The Galleon (Dark Side)
35 Blithe Spirit 7a *** 2
36 Get a Grip 7b * 1
37 Eat Y'Self Fitter 6c ** 2
38 Infinite Gravity 7a+ *  
39 Fight Fire With Fire 7c ** 1
40 The Pack Horse 6c *** 1
41 Horrid 6c  
42 Don't Pass me By 6a+  
43 The Guilt Trip 6c **  
  The Underworld
45 Carsonagenic 6a 3
46 Hangin Out The Smalls 7a ** 1
47 Under Where? 6b 1
48 XX
-
6c  
49 Satan's Slaves
-
6a 1
50 Maniaxe
-
6b 1
51 Under Mind
-
6b+ 1
  Cascade Wall (Dark Side)
53 Short Sharp Shocked
-
6a+ 3
54 Havering Skate
-
6b+ 1
  Far Beyond
56 Hyper Hyper
-
6b 1
  Down Under
58 The Bends
-
7a+ 1
59 Nitrogen
-
6b+ 1
  Concave Wall (Dark Side)
61 Snipe Shadow 8b **  
62 Arms Limitation
-
7b+ *** 1
63 Northern Exposure 7a+ 1
  Warm Up Wall
65 Ultraviolet 6b+ * 2
66 Outshined
-
6a+ * 3
67 Burnt Offerings
-
6b+ ** 3
68 Face The Heat 7a ** 3
69 Infrarete 6b+ * 4
70 Under the Same Sun 6b+ 3
71 Burn Baby, Burn 6a+ 5
72 Burn It Up 6b+ 1
  Roadside Wall
74 Don't Fight The Feeling 6b * 3
75 Rock Is Dead
-
6c+ 1
76 Dark Skies
-
6b+ 2
77 Hold The Press 7a * 2
  The Gap
79 Beggars Banquet 6b+ * 2
80 Chimera 6b+ ** 2
  Overlord
82 Restless Souls 7a ** 1
83 Overlord 7b * 1
84 Overkill 7a+ ** 2
85 Over The Top 6b+ * 2
86 Pushover 6b+ * 4
87 Pullover
-
6b+ 3
  Mirror Wall
89 Munrobagger
-
6b+ 6
90 Blind Faith
-
7b 3
91 Take a Hike
-
7a 4
92 Cony the Calvinist
-
6c 6
93 Fat Eagles Fly Low
-
6a+ 18
94 Retribution 6c+ 7
95 Carry On Up The Corbetts
-
6a+ 4
  The Terraces
97 Unnamed 6b+  
  The Gallery
99 Mona Sleeza 6a+ * 1
100 Modern Tart 6b+ * 1
101 Art Attack
-
7a+ * 2
  Creag Nan Cuileann
103 Idiot Wind
-
7b 1
104 Poison Ivy E3 5c * 3
105 Fight or Flight
-
6c+ 1
106 Slaphead
-
6b+ 1
107 Fat Chance
-
6c 1
108 Fight The Flab
-
6c+ 1
109 Let it All Hang Out
-
6c+ 1
110 Happy Campus
-
6c 1
111 Hang On, 6c * 2
112 Step On It
-
6a 1
113 Life in the fat lane
-
6c * 4
114 Chasing the Bandwagon
-
6b * 5
115 Reaching the Limit 6c 5
116 Clutching at Straws 7a 3
117 Dazed and Confused 6a 5
118 Having a Little Flutter 6c+ ** 2
119 Ceuse Jimmy 6c ** 5
120 Kinmont Times 6a+ * 7
121 Lichen Virgin 6a+ 13
122 Loose Living 6a * 23
123 Ghost Trail 6b+ * 18
  Bournville
125 The Dirty Dozen 6a 9
126 It ain't over till it's over 6a+ 3
127 Coward of the County 6a+ 2
128 Half Covered
-
6b * 2
129 High And Dry
-
6b 1
130 Chocoholics 6a+ 5
131 Fingers of Fudge
-
6b+ 2
132 Sudden Alchemy
-
6b * 5
133 Hot Chocolate 6b ** 9
134 Sorry Tess
-
6b 6
135 The Greenhouse Defect 6b ** 9
136 Voodoo Ray 6b 6
137 Up to Scratch * E3 6a 1
138 Merlyn's Flight *
-
E3 6a  
139 The Bigger They Fall *
-
E5 6c  
140 The Harder they Come *
-
E4 5c  
141 Pruner's Groove *
-
E1 5c  
142 Mind Bogle *
-
E5 6a  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer sheppy