Climbs 123
Rocktype Schist
Altitude 200m a.s.l

Smithy on Poss first accent? © sairfeet

Crag features

Although no longer Scotland's Premier Sport Climbing area the Ogle valley still holds an attractive selection of mainly short, powerful sport climbs. Some of the crags especially on the Dark Side are little visited these days which is a shame as many gems lie hidden on the hillside. What you get with Glen Ogle is generally steep, often excellent climbing on fairly spaced bolts. At the time of writing (June 2010) some of the bolts on the wetter crags are in a questionable condition and careful inspection is recommended.

Expect a fair bit of bushwacking between buttresses if coming in high summer especially on the Sunny side as the bracken is relentless in its growth!

Good bouldering can be found spread across the area.

Approach notes

Many birds nest in the Glen Ogle area.

Contact the MC of S, to get up-to-date informtation, and ensure you adhere to any bans in force.

Easier routes on The Diamond and all routes on the Galleon are unclimbably dirty apart from Metal Guru and Old Wives Tale. Some bolting is poor and some loweroffs are awful. The main wall on The Diamond is in good condition at time of writing.
Fiend - 20/Jul/13
My second visit to the crag (sunny side) over the last couple of years. The sectors I've been to are generally slab like or vertical in nature, difficult to read (quite blind at times) and although weak at the moment, relatively sandbag. Despite this the location is fantastic on a good day with stunning vistas down the glen from many of the crags. Some of the hangers are a little rusty, but that's to be expected for crags exposed to the elements such as these. The walk in hasn't got any better and if you want good weather you'll have to persevere with bracket bashing to get to a sheep track which makes things a little easier. Alternatively hope someone has been up there recently to trample it all down! Again I won't rush back but as I'm from the area originally and still have family nearby, never say never. Interested in trying the dark side although concerned about the hangers as this side always appear to be wet and the bolts are pretty old.
ANC - 02/Jul/13
Some superb climbing on Creag Nan Cuileann if blind, slopey, lichenous pockets are your thing!
Smelly Fox - 11/Jun/11
Wading through dead bracken was the most memorable part of my visit to this crag. The routes are all utterly desperate, particularly given the amount of water running down the rocks. If it hadn't been fantastic weather, with a glorious view from the crag, I'd have been somewhat disgruntled about the effort I made to get there. Next time I go to Lochearnhead, I'll stick to bagging Munros.
Annette - 09/Nov/09
Walk in to the Warm Up crag is horrible. Uphill through a jungle of bracken. Not really worth it in my opinion unless you plan on taking a petrol powered strimmer with you. Guide book description is also rubbish. Parking for Warm Up crag is in the big layby leading to a gate into a field.
climberuk - 23/Aug/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Bond Buttress (Dark Side) 
8a+ ***1
3Scaramanga7a+ ***4
7a+ ** 
 Rainmaker Buttress 
6The End Justifies the Means7b+ ** 
7Power Shower7b+ * 
 The Diamond (Dark Side) 
9Midge Patrol
6b *4
10Easy Over7a 3
11Digital Quartz8b ** 
12Cease Fire8a+ ** 
13The Link7c+ 1
14Spiral Tribe
8a+ ***1
15Off the Beaten Track
8a **4
16Children of the Revolution7b *1
17Chain Lightning7c ***8
18One In The Eye For The Stick Men7a+ **7
19Old Wives Tail6b **6
20Metal Guru6c+ **6
21Gross Indecency7c  
22Trossachs Trundler7c  
23After the Flood6c *2
24Arc of a Diver6c **1
25Climb and Punishment7b+  
26Wristy Business6c+ *2
27Raspberry Beret6b+ *2
28Ship Ahoy6b 1
 The Rave 
30The Edge of Ecstasy6c *1
31Rush7a *1
32Raving Lunatics7b *2
33Recreational Chemistry6c+ *2
 The Galleon (Dark Side) 
35Blithe Spirit7a ***2
36Get a Grip7b *1
37Eat Y'Self Fitter6c **2
38Infinite Gravity7a+ * 
39Fight Fire With Fire7c **1
40The Pack Horse6c ***1
42Don't Pass me By6a+  
43The Guilt Trip6c ** 
 The Underworld 
45Carsonagenic6a 3
46Hangin Out The Smalls7a **1
47Under Where?6b 1
49Satan's Slaves
6a 1
6b 1
51Under Mind
6b+ 1
 Cascade Wall (Dark Side) 
53Short Sharp Shocked
6a+ 3
54Havering Skate
6b+ 1
 Far Beyond 
56Hyper Hyper
6b 1
 Down Under 
58The Bends
7a+ 1
6b+ 1
 Concave Wall (Dark Side) 
61Snipe Shadow8b ** 
62Arms Limitation
7b+ ***1
63Northern Exposure7a+ 1
 Warm Up Wall 
65Ultraviolet6b+ *2
6a+ *3
67Burnt Offerings
6b+ **3
68Face The Heat7a **3
69Infrarete6b+ *4
70Under the Same Sun6b+ 3
71Burn Baby, Burn6a+ 5
72Burn It Up6b+ 1
 Roadside Wall 
74Don't Fight The Feeling6b *3
75Rock Is Dead
6c+ 1
76Dark Skies
6b+ 2
77Hold The Press7a *2
 The Gap 
79Beggars Banquet6b+ *2
80Chimera6b+ **2
82Restless Souls7a **1
83Overlord7b *1
84Overkill7a+ **2
85Over The Top6b+ *2
86Pushover6b+ *4
6b+ 3
 Mirror Wall 
6b+ 6
90Blind Faith
7b 3
91Take a Hike
7a 4
92Cony the Calvinist
6c 8
93Fat Eagles Fly Low
6a+ 18
94Retribution6c+ 7
95Carry On Up The Corbetts
6a+ 4
 The Terraces 
 The Gallery 
99Mona Sleeza6a+ *1
100Modern Tart6b+ *1
101Art Attack
7a+ *2
 Creag Nan Cuileann 
103Idiot Wind
7b 1
104Poison IvyE3 5c *3
105Fight or Flight
6c+ 1
6b+ 1
107Fat Chance
6c 1
108Fight The Flab
6c+ 1
109Let it All Hang Out
6c+ 1
110Happy Campus
6c 1
111Hang On,6c *2
112Step On It
6a 1
113Life in the fat lane
6c *4
114Chasing the Bandwagon
6b *5
115Reaching the Limit6c 5
116Clutching at Straws7a 3
117Dazed and Confused6a 5
118Having a Little Flutter6c+ **2
119Ceuse Jimmy6c **5
120Kinmont Times6a+ *7
121Lichen Virgin6a+ 13
122Loose Living6a *23
123Ghost Trail6b+ *18
125The Dirty Dozen6a 9
126It ain't over till it's over6a+ 3
127Coward of the County6a+ 2
128Half Covered
6b *2
129High And Dry
6b 1
130Chocoholics6a+ 5
131Fingers of Fudge
6b+ 2
132Sudden Alchemy
6b *5
133Hot Chocolate6b **9
134Sorry Tess
6b 6
135The Greenhouse Defect6b **9
136Voodoo Ray6b 6
137Up to Scratch *E3 6a 1
138Merlyn's Flight *
E3 6a  
139The Bigger They Fall *
E5 6c  
140The Harder they Come *
E4 5c  
141Pruner's Groove *
E1 5c  
142Mind Bogle *
E5 6a  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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