Climbs 122
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 444m a.s.l
Faces SW

German girl Suzanna on Ripoux a stiff 5+ at Ubrieux, Buis les Baronnies. © Enty

Crag features

With a few exceptions, Ubrieux is a crag for those wanting mid-grade routes consisting of technical climbing. The generally-slabby walls naturally offer many different lines up the same piece of rock, and a 6a can easily feel like a 7a if you're as much as a metre off - we've described the easiest lines, and the reader is invited to discover the hard variations at their leisure.

The crag faces south-west, and gets plenty of sun from mid-day onwards. The rock dries very quickly after rain, and plentiful tree cover allows some shade for those on belay duty. Lou Passo gets the morning sun and seeps after rain. After heavy rain the river may swell to make the base of routes unreachable.

Approach notes

Head north from Buis-les-Baronnies on the D646 and you can't miss the extensive limestone crag that runs up the hill on the right. Where the crag meets the road there is a parking area with picnic tables. A path follows the base of the cliff. This is an extensive cliff, and there are more routes than described here. Once away from the popular areas the quality of the rock and of the approach path deteriorate noticeable. To get to Lou Passo, walk (or drive) up the road and cross the river at the bridge, take a path left immediately after the bridge and follow this down-river until a short section of via ferrata leads down to the riverside, follow the river for a short distance (past the beginners' initiation slab) until you arrive at the routes shown.

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France : Haute Provence

The first in a series of selective guidebooks, France: Haute Provence presents many of the finest sport climbing destinations in the world together in one clear and colourful book. Covering all the best areas from the magnificent walls of Céüse in the north to the impeccable climbing playground of Buoux to the south, this book has a lifetime’s worth of climbing waiting on its pages.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Avignon (2006)
Watch out for rockfall at the Rocher de Tchernobyl-Right section where there are trees growing above the grade 4 routes - helmets are recommended and do not use the ground anchors if you want the chance to get out of the way
3kidsandanorton - 16/Oct/11
The only good thing about this crag for me is it’s a short walk-in and it gets shade till about midday. But if you like undergraded polished routes, it might be OK. On sector Six Symbol the easier routes are uninspiring and shiny. It is unclear which route is which despite the odd almost illegibly-painted name. These don’t match R/fax (topo photo is badly-lit so can’t see features) or the local topo (almost useless crag diagram). The routes in both guides are seriously undergraded and horribly shiny to boot, though as there has been a lot of rebolting, high first bolt warnings are redundant
Rog Wilko - 26/Sep/11
Crag has shade in the morning which can be very useful. Squeezed in routes but the rock quality is mostly immaculate. Hard to beat if slab and wall climbing in the low 6's are your thing.
danm - 03/May/11
A rather unsatisfying cliff - particulalry the lower half. Far too many routes squeezed in which makes them lose their identity. Further up the slope it's better
Bulls Crack - 13/Jan/11
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Lou Passo 
2Ms Colombe8b * 
3Doux Souvenir8a+ * 
4Cétacé7c+ **1
5Nico7c ** 
6Psychose7b **5
7Hardcore7b+ ***4
8Ciao Bella7c ***1
9Flashdance7a+ ***9
10Mito7c * 
12Bloody Hill5c 4
13Eclipse6a+ 5
14Cana4c 2
15Fonctionnaire5a *7
16Calament4a 4
17Toit ou Moi4c 4
18Cro Magnon4a 5
19La Voie Souple5c 4
2020 Cents4c 3
22Le Tas5a  
23Abigail6c 1
 Rocher de Tchernobyl 
25Toit Robi6c+ *3
26Ça Cartoon6b+ * 
27Sensation6b *2
28Sensation Extension6c * 
29Oh! Con! / Serre les Fesses6b *7
30Oh! Con! / Serre Les Fesses Extension6c * 
31Ira de la Lune6b *5
32Au Taquet Bauboul6b *7
33Planète Rock6b *5
34Les Sauc' d'Italia6a+ *4
35Ecolo Man6b+ *3
36Ecolo Man Right5a *2
37Aphrodite5a **26
38HĂ©sitation4c *16
39HĂ©sitation Extension7a+ **1
40Ulala5a *18
41Ulala Extension6b *2
42L'XYZ5c **14
43L'ABC4c *16
44La Casse Dalle6b 2
45Tchernobyl6c * 
46Le Grand Chaos6b+ **14
47Oraison Funèbre7b **3
48Passeport Pour l'Enfer7b+ ** 
49Dernier Soupir6b *5
50Mammouth Cave5c **15
51Le Paradis6b+ **14
52Le Mythe6c **5
53Le K d'Annibal6c+ **8
54Nuage6b+ **19
55Le Clou Foireux5a *33
56Samiby6a *58
57Andropose5c *36
58Maybe5c *35
59Mikado4c *30
60Rambo Varrior5a *39
61Beaux Parleurs5c *30
62Mercure5c *41
63Jupiter4c *46
64Kipertou4c *42
65Splach4c *37
66Perfo/Cleru4c 28
 Six Symbol 
68Crache tes Tripes pour l'Enfer7b **1
69La Finesse des Doigtés7b **2
70Climbing Show7c ** 
71Climbing Showbiz7b  
72Rock Toi de LĂ 6c+ * 
73Cheminement3 *2
74La Reymonde5a *26
75Le Grand Jo5a *25
76Le Gégène4c *14
77Post Natal6a+ *19
78L'Enfance de l'Art6a *29
79Psychose5a *28
80Déséquilibre6b+ *6
81Subtilité Tactile6a+ *13
82Faille qui Maille6c **3
83Turpitude7b **2
84Symphonie du Graton6c+ ***8
85Sublimation6c **8
86Kesako6c+ ***9
87Six Symbol7a+ *2
88Point Limite Zero7a+ 4
89Flagrant DĂ©lire7c+  
 Tache Blanche 
91Des Doigts et des Orteils7a **1
92Entrechat6c+ **2
93Le Pas DĂ©cisif6c+ *1
94Le Bal Ă  Jo6b+ *5
95Paradoxe6b *4
96Le Repos du Grimpeur5c ***31
97DĂ©verse-Gondage5c *4
98H.S5c *1
99Sudation Excessive6c+ **3
100Bébé s'Amuse6a+ **9
101Symphonie Inachevée6a **23
102Eléphant Girl6a+ **19
103Ciao l'Enfoiré!5c **12
104Les Flambeurs6b+ ***19
105Cupidos6a+ **8
106Embraces-toi6b+ *1
107Ripoux5c **12
108Les Pieds dans les Poches4a *6
109Vendredi 134a *12
110Le Diagonal du Fou6a+ ***10
111DĂ©sir6c **4
112Surprise Sur Prise7a ***4
 Le Bout du Monde 
114Caresses-la6b ** 
115Frau Petra6b ***1
116VoluptĂ©6b * 
118MorphĂ©e6a+ *** 
119Le 7ème Ciel7a  
120Frisson Pour une Jeune Fille5c ** 
122Le Dièdre du Délire
5a ***1
5a ***1
124Ça Mouille
6b ** 
125La Calanca
6c *** 
126Piana Piano
6c ** 
127Le Pilier de la Rampe
6a *** 
128De l'ouvèze au Ciel
7a * 

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