Climbs 122
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 444m a.s.l
Faces SW

German girl Suzanna on Ripoux a stiff 5+ at Ubrieux, Buis les Baronnies. © Enty

Crag features

With a few exceptions, Ubrieux is a crag for those wanting mid-grade routes consisting of technical climbing. The generally-slabby walls naturally offer many different lines up the same piece of rock, and a 6a can easily feel like a 7a if you're as much as a metre off - we've described the easiest lines, and the reader is invited to discover the hard variations at their leisure.

The crag faces south-west, and gets plenty of sun from mid-day onwards. The rock dries very quickly after rain, and plentiful tree cover allows some shade for those on belay duty. Lou Passo gets the morning sun and seeps after rain. After heavy rain the river may swell to make the base of routes unreachable.

Approach notes

Head north from Buis-les-Baronnies on the D646 and you can't miss the extensive limestone crag that runs up the hill on the right. Where the crag meets the road there is a parking area with picnic tables. A path follows the base of the cliff. This is an extensive cliff, and there are more routes than described here. Once away from the popular areas the quality of the rock and of the approach path deteriorate noticeable. To get to Lou Passo, walk (or drive) up the road and cross the river at the bridge, take a path left immediately after the bridge and follow this down-river until a short section of via ferrata leads down to the riverside, follow the river for a short distance (past the beginners' initiation slab) until you arrive at the routes shown.

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Guidebooks

France : Haute Provence

The first in a series of selective guidebooks, France: Haute Provence presents many of the finest sport climbing destinations in the world together in one clear and colourful book. Covering all the best areas from the magnificent walls of Céüse in the north to the impeccable climbing playground of Buoux to the south, this book has a lifetime’s worth of climbing waiting on its pages.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Avignon (2006)
Watch out for rockfall at the Rocher de Tchernobyl-Right section where there are trees growing above the grade 4 routes - helmets are recommended and do not use the ground anchors if you want the chance to get out of the way
3kidsandanorton - 16/Oct/11
The only good thing about this crag for me is its a short walk-in and it gets shade till about midday. But if you like undergraded polished routes, it might be OK. On sector Six Symbol the easier routes are uninspiring and shiny. It is unclear which route is which despite the odd almost illegibly-painted name. These dont match R/fax (topo photo is badly-lit so cant see features) or the local topo (almost useless crag diagram). The routes in both guides are seriously undergraded and horribly shiny to boot, though as there has been a lot of rebolting, high first bolt warnings are redundant
Rog Wilko - 26/Sep/11
Crag has shade in the morning which can be very useful. Squeezed in routes but the rock quality is mostly immaculate. Hard to beat if slab and wall climbing in the low 6's are your thing.
danm - 03/May/11
A rather unsatisfying cliff - particulalry the lower half. Far too many routes squeezed in which makes them lose their identity. Further up the slope it's better
Bulls Crack - 13/Jan/11
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Lou Passo
2 Ms Colombe 8b *  
3 Doux Souvenir 8a+ *  
4 Cétacé 7c+ ** 1
5 Nico 7c **  
6 Psychose 7b ** 6
7 Hardcore 7b+ *** 4
8 Ciao Bella 7c *** 1
9 Flashdance 7a+ *** 11
10 Mito 7c *  
11 Beurk 7b  
12 Bloody Hill 5c 4
13 Eclipse 6a+ 6
14 Cana 4c 2
15 Fonctionnaire 5a * 7
16 Calament 4a 4
17 Toit ou Moi 4c 4
18 Cro Magnon 4a 5
19 La Voie Souple 5c 4
20 20 Cents 4c 3
21 Poussin 4c  
22 Le Tas 5a  
23 Abigail 6c 1
  Rocher de Tchernobyl
25 Toit Robi 6c+ * 3
26 Ça Cartoon 6b+ *  
27 Sensation 6b * 2
28 Sensation Extension 6c *  
29 Oh! Con! / Serre les Fesses 6b * 7
30 Oh! Con! / Serre Les Fesses Extension 6c *  
31 Ira de la Lune 6b * 5
32 Au Taquet Bauboul 6b * 7
33 Planète Rock 6b * 5
34 Les Sauc' d'Italia 6a+ * 4
35 Ecolo Man 6b+ * 3
36 Ecolo Man Right 5a * 2
37 Aphrodite 5a ** 27
38 Hésitation 4c * 16
39 Hésitation Extension 7a+ ** 1
40 Ulala 5a * 18
41 Ulala Extension 6b * 2
42 L'XYZ 5c ** 14
43 L'ABC 4c * 16
44 La Casse Dalle 6b 2
45 Tchernobyl 6c *  
46 Le Grand Chaos 6b+ ** 14
47 Oraison Funèbre 7b ** 3
48 Passeport Pour l'Enfer 7b+ **  
49 Dernier Soupir 6b * 5
50 Mammouth Cave 5c ** 15
51 Le Paradis 6b+ ** 14
52 Le Mythe 6c ** 5
53 Le K d'Annibal 6c+ ** 8
54 Nuage 6b+ ** 19
55 Le Clou Foireux 5a * 33
56 Samiby 6a * 59
57 Andropose 5c * 37
58 Maybe 5c * 35
59 Mikado 4c * 30
60 Rambo Varrior 5a * 39
61 Beaux Parleurs 5c * 30
62 Mercure 5c * 41
63 Jupiter 4c * 46
64 Kipertou 4c * 42
65 Splach 4c * 37
66 Perfo/Cleru 4c 28
  Six Symbol
68 Crache tes Tripes pour l'Enfer 7b ** 1
69 La Finesse des Doigtés 7b ** 2
70 Climbing Show 7c **  
71 Climbing Showbiz 7b  
72 Rock Toi de Là 6c+ *  
73 Cheminement 3 * 2
74 La Reymonde 5a * 27
75 Le Grand Jo 5a * 25
76 Le Gégène 4c * 15
77 Post Natal 6a+ * 19
78 L'Enfance de l'Art 6a * 29
79 Psychose 5a * 28
80 Déséquilibre 6b+ * 6
81 Subtilité Tactile 6a+ * 13
82 Faille qui Maille 6c ** 3
83 Turpitude 7b ** 2
84 Symphonie du Graton 6c+ *** 8
85 Sublimation 6c ** 8
86 Kesako 6c+ *** 8
87 Six Symbol 7a+ * 2
88 Point Limite Zero 7a+ 4
89 Flagrant Délire 7c+  
  Tache Blanche
91 Des Doigts et des Orteils 7a ** 1
92 Entrechat 6c+ ** 2
93 Le Pas Décisif 6c+ * 1
94 Le Bal à Jo 6b+ * 5
95 Paradoxe 6b * 4
96 Le Repos du Grimpeur 5c *** 31
97 Déverse-Gondage 5c * 4
98 H.S 5c * 1
99 Sudation Excessive 6c+ ** 3
100 Bébé s'Amuse 6a+ ** 9
101 Symphonie Inachevée 6a ** 23
102 Eléphant Girl 6a+ ** 22
103 Ciao l'Enfoiré! 5c ** 13
104 Les Flambeurs 6b+ *** 19
105 Cupidos 6a+ ** 8
106 Embraces-toi 6b+ * 1
107 Ripoux 5c ** 13
108 Les Pieds dans les Poches 4a * 7
109 Vendredi 13 4a * 12
110 Le Diagonal du Fou 6a+ *** 10
111 Désir 6c ** 5
112 Surprise Sur Prise 7a *** 4
  Le Bout du Monde
114 Caresses-la 6b **  
115 Frau Petra 6b *** 1
116 Volupté 6b *  
117 Sadam 6b  
118 Morphée 6a+ ***  
119 Le 7ème Ciel 7a  
120 Frisson Pour une Jeune Fille 5c **  
  WHERE ARE THESE???
122 Le Dièdre du Délire
-
5a *** 1
123 Soupir
-
5a *** 1
124 Ça Mouille
-
6b **  
125 La Calanca
-
6c ***  
126 Piana Piano
-
6c **  
127 Le Pilier de la Rampe
-
6a ***  
128 De l'ouvèze au Ciel
-
7a *  

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