Altitude 444m a.s.l
German girl Suzanna on Ripoux a stiff 5+ at Ubrieux, Buis les Baronnies. © Enty
With a few exceptions, Ubrieux is a crag for those wanting mid-grade routes consisting of technical climbing. The generally-slabby walls naturally offer many different lines up the same piece of rock, and a 6a can easily feel like a 7a if you're as much as a metre off - we've described the easiest lines, and the reader is invited to discover the hard variations at their leisure.
The crag faces south-west, and gets plenty of sun from mid-day onwards. The rock dries very quickly after rain, and plentiful tree cover allows some shade for those on belay duty. Lou Passo gets the morning sun and seeps after rain. After heavy rain the river may swell to make the base of routes unreachable.
Head north from Buis-les-Baronnies on the D646 and you can't miss the extensive limestone crag that runs up the hill on the right. Where the crag meets the road there is a parking area with picnic tables. A path follows the base of the cliff. This is an extensive cliff, and there are more routes than described here. Once away from the popular areas the quality of the rock and of the approach path deteriorate noticeable. To get to Lou Passo, walk (or drive) up the road and cross the river at the bridge, take a path left immediately after the bridge and follow this down-river until a short section of via ferrata leads down to the riverside, follow the river for a short distance (past the beginners' initiation slab) until you arrive at the routes shown.
|Watch out for rockfall at the Rocher de Tchernobyl-Right section where there are trees growing above the grade 4 routes - helmets are recommended and do not use the ground anchors if you want the chance to get out of the way|
3kidsandanorton - 16/Oct/11
|The only good thing about this crag for me is it’s a short walk-in and it gets shade till about midday. But if you like undergraded polished routes, it might be OK. On sector Six Symbol the easier routes are uninspiring and shiny. It is unclear which route is which despite the odd almost illegibly-painted name. These don’t match R/fax (topo photo is badly-lit so can’t see features) or the local topo (almost useless crag diagram). The routes in both guides are seriously undergraded and horribly shiny to boot, though as there has been a lot of rebolting, high first bolt warnings are redundant|
Rog Wilko - 26/Sep/11
|Crag has shade in the morning which can be very useful. Squeezed in routes but the rock quality is mostly immaculate. Hard to beat if slab and wall climbing in the low 6's are your thing.|
danm - 03/May/11
|A rather unsatisfying cliff - particulalry the lower half. Far too many routes squeezed in which makes them lose their identity. Further up the slope it's better|
Bulls Crack - 13/Jan/11