Climbs 100
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 6m a.s.l
Faces NW

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Manchester Dogs 8A, Angel Bay, Llandudno © John Cooke

Crag features

"Upper Craig-Y-Don offers probably the best introduction to climbing on this headland - with no access problems and compact, clean rock. The longest and most dramatic routes are to be found around the hidden side of the headland - in the exciting Great Zawn. This zawn is an incredible place to climb, being a sheer, almost featureless slab of unique rock rising straight out of the sea." Andy Pollitt, North Wales Limestone.

Beach bouldering. Apparently, "a favourite training site for Coast Guard Rescue Teams". Take note.

Approach notes

Tidal.

Restricted Access

Seals frequently haul out onto the beach at all time of the year. If seals are present give them a wide berth and plenty of space (ideally at least 100m).  Please do not bring dogs to this venue. Seals normally produce pups from late August onwards (usually until late October but can be later)  and when pups are present its best to avoid the area. Do not get between the mother seal and its pups as this can lead the pup to be abandonded or to try to swim before its grown enough.

Seasl also haul out to moult in early spring and climbers are asked to avoid the area during this time - this will be indicated by on-site signs. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 31 August to 30 November

Reason: Other Conservation

The whole beach is now a very important seal breeding site with over 114 (!!) breeding seals and pups counted on the beach in 2016.  Due to the small scale of the beach and the high likelyhood of distrubance (breeding seals are protected by law), the local council and wildlife trust are  now enforcing a total ban on all public access (including bouldering) during this time. 
Guys when I go into Tom Smiths Stone Top, it comes up with this I have it down as near Grey Nag, its a a 2000 summit at 637 in the Nuttalls ?
Andy Merrick - 17/May/11
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Left Wall
2 Warm Up Slab
-
V0+ * 65
3 Warm Up Slab Return Lap
-
V1 * 36
4 Problem 2
-
V1 66
5 Keel Left Hand V5 22
6 Keel Right Hand V5 11
7 Travel Light
-
V4 * 28
8 The Bulge
-
V4 ** 30
9 The Pump Traverse
-
V6 * 1
10 Papa Big Punch
-
V8+ ** 2
11 Papa Big Lunch f7C *  
12 The Jonesy Locker
-
V7 ** 13
13 Problem 9
-
V6 * 7
14 Pocket Wall
-
V4 ** 59
15 The Crack
-
V0- ** 40
16 Hong Kong Phooey
-
V3 22
17 The Descent Crack
-
V0- ** 45
18 The Bridey Arete
-
V4 ** 78
19 The Bridey Arete SS V6 ** 22
20 Chaos Emerald Crack
-
V5 *** 27
21 Chaos Emerald Crack into The Mantelpiece V6 ** 2
22 Chaos Emerald Crack into The Holding Principle V6 ** 1
23 The Mantlepiece
-
V4 ** 21
24 Dirtbox
-
V8+ * 1
25 The Holding Principle
-
V6 ** 2
26 The Holding Principle into Chaos Emerald Crack V6 ** 1
27 THP reverse into HP Direct V6 * 1
Climb name Grade
28 THP reverse into HP Direct minus Flake V8 * 1
29 HP Direct
-
V3 ** 14
30 HP Direct into Chaos Emerald Crack V6 1
31 The Undercut Problem
-
V2 ** 40
32 Problem 20
-
V5 * 19
33 Bruce Lee
-
V7 **  
34 Problem 22 V0 15
35 Problem 23 V1 * 22
36 Problem 24 V0 * 14
37 Problem 25 V2 * 12
38 Pump Traverse Low * V7 * 1
39 Problem 19 *
-
V0- 1
  Boulders
41 Tony's Through Trip
-
V5 * 2
42 Manchester Dogs V11 * 4
43 5c Wall (righthand start)
-
V2 * 43
44 5c Wall (lefthand start)
-
V2 ** 51
45 5c Wall Arete
-
V3 ** 55
46 Mussel Bound
-
V8 ** 14
47 Sick As A Dog V6 * 5
48 Problem 7
-
V5 * 13
49 The Letterbox
-
V4 ** 51
50 Problem 9
-
V7 * 5
51 Problem 10
-
V2 ** 22
52 Ren-Arete
-
V5 *** 51
53 Limp Wrist
-
V7 * 3
54 Limp Wrist Sit Start V8 **  
Climb name Grade
55 The Limpet
-
V6 *** 23
56 Limpet Sit Start V8 **  
57 Problem 14
-
V2 ** 3
58 Serpentine Pad V11 ***  
59 The Alabaster Roof
-
V5 ** 3
60 Problem 16
-
V2 * 1
61 Dyer's Trav
-
V5 * 1
62 Angel Of Destruction
-
E7 6c ** 1
63 Wet Between The Legs
-
V8+ 1
64 The Pocky Slap
-
V4 *  
65 Truth About Samson
-
V7 **  
66 Sonic Boom
-
V8+ *** 2
67 Spectrum
-
V7 * 4
68 Problem 24
-
V3 * 1
69 Problem 25
-
V2 * 3
70 The Ramp
-
V0- *** 1
71 The Scoop
-
V1 * 1
72 Garp none *  
73 Patch's Wall
-
V3 **  
74 Peggy V7 ** 2
75 The Westy Hole Blowers
-
XS **  
76 Barnacle Bill 7a * 1
77 5c wall RH (sit start) V5 * 2
78 Major Droop * f6C * 2
79 50 Wall arete sit start * f6A+ 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Luke Owens