UKC

Climbs 79
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 500m a.s.l
Faces S

Jimmy 'Big Guns' McCormack on the classic bold wall climb of Lord of the Flies E6 6a. © Jack Geldard

Crag features

Three-star classic routes at every grade from VDiff (Spiral Stairs) to E8 (Nightmayer). The superclassics are Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c), Left Wall (E2 5c), Right Wall (E5 6a), Lord of the Flies (E6 6a). Often busy at Bank Holidays and warm weekends.

Approach notes

From the Cromlech Boulders head slightly left and go up alongside the stream before heading right towards the crags as going direct up the scree is painful. Parking can be limited - either arrive early or be prepared for a long walk.  Can also get 'Snowden Sherpa' (park and ride) from Llanberis.  The Boulders are at roadside. Needs dry weather but dries well.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info

North Wales Classics

A significant addition to the Rockfax stable; North Wales Classics is a pocket-sized guide packs in hundreds of superb routes throughout the mountains of Snowdonia. From Tremadog to Tryfan, and everywhere in between, the book covers mid-grade routes on the best crags and features top-notch photo-topos and inspirational action shots taking you where you want to go.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The West Wing
2 Millwood's Wall
-
S 4a 1
3 Vanishing Point
-
E1 5b 3
4 The Thing
-
E2 5c *** 144
5 Rootorooni
-
E3 5c *  
6 Cobweb Crack
-
VS 5a ** 235
7 Parchment Passage
-
VD * 250
8 Scarab
-
HVS 5b * 5
9 Pharaoh's Passage
-
VS 4c 47
10 Scroll
-
HS 4a 3
11 Speedfreak
-
E1 5b 13
12 Pharaoh's Wall
-
VS 4c * 136
13 Noah's Warning VS 5a *** 652
14 Ramases Wall
-
E1 5b 6
15 The Nubian
-
E1 5b 11
16 Holly Buttress
-
VS 4c * 35
17 Zimbabwe
-
E1 5c 1
18 Dives/Better Things VS 4b *** 1001
19 Sabre Cut VS 4c *** 1131
20 Curfew
-
E1 5b * 128
21 Foil E3 6a *** 338
22 Dives / Sabre cut * VS 4c *** 11
  Cenotaph Corner
24 Epitaph
-
E3 5c * 14
25 Corridors of Power
-
E4 6a 4
26 Spiral Stairs D *** 951
27 Memory Lane E3 5c ** 273
28 Tess of the d'Urbevilles E6 6b * 16
29 Left Wall E2 5c *** 1181
Climb name Grade
30 Left Wall Direct Finish E3 5c *** 198
31 True Grip
-
E5 6a *** 116
32 Resurrection E4 6a *** 427
33 JR
-
E5 6b * 23
34 Cenotaph Corner E1 5c *** 1389
35 Nightmayer E8 6c ** 6
36 Lord of the Flies E6 6a *** 79
37 The House of God
-
E6 6a * 4
38 Right Wall E5 6a *** 326
39 Precious
-
E5 6b ** 18
40 Ivory Madonna
-
E5 6b ** 3
41 Cemetery Gates E1 5b *** 1774
42 The Grim Jim
-
E2 5b 107
43 The Grim Jim - Direct Start
-
E4 5c 4
  The East Wing
45 Crucifix
-
E2 5b * 14
46 Crucifix Direct
-
E4 5c * 13
47 Golgotha
-
E4 5c  
48 Ivy Sepulchre E1 5b ** 596
49 Hall of Warriors
-
E5 6a * 6
50 Jericho Wall E2 5a ** 6
51 Sexton's Route S 2
52 Nebs Crawl
-
VD 5
53 The Cromlech Girdle
-
E2 5b *** 16
  Flying Buttress
55 Flying Buttress VD *** 2094
56 Castle Gully M 4
57 Kamikazi Finish
-
VS 4c 3
58 Rene
-
VS 4c 6
Climb name Grade
59 The Puerile Ticker
-
VS 4c * 2
60 The Quaker
-
HVS 5a  
61 Crampon Route
-
VS 4b  
62 Notanda
-
HS 4a 3
  Upper Walls
64 Tributary Crack
-
D 14
65 Misty Wall
-
E2 5b * 17
66 Cenotaph Corner Finish
-
VS 4b * 19
67 Overlord
-
E8 6c ** 5
68 Gruel
-
HVS 5b 2
69 Ivy Sepulchre Crack
-
VD * 16
70 Rumblefish
-
E7 6b ** 3
71 The Bastard Practice
-
E7 6c **  
72 Grond E2 5b ** 161
73 Grand
-
E5 6c  
74 The Mystery
-
E1 5b 10
75 The Monster
-
E2 5c ** 55
76 Pegasus
-
HVS 5a * 5
77 Awesome
-
E4 6a  
78 Gross Encounters
-
E2 5b *  
79 Atomic Hot Rod
-
E5 6b * 7
80 Valley Crossings
-
VD 4
  Clogwyn y Wennol
82 Cromlech Grooves * S 1
83 Red Faces
-
VD 1
  Outlying
85 Eggmeat Arete E3 6a ** 24
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer remus