Climbs 301
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 129m a.s.l
Faces E

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Chris high on the classic Give Me Light V1 © MorganPreece

Crag features

Line of smallish grit-like sandstone-conglomerate crags and freestanding boulders, certainly worth a look, but be aware of access problems. Rarely busy. Single pitch routes to 15 metres.

Martin Crockers' 'The Sandstone Outcrops of the Forest of Dean' (Climbers' Club, 2006) is definitive for the main crag.

Topo for Boulder Problems can be found here: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/17d7bTU2ONVSSMPus5tONyydN2QSNMZOq?usp=sharing

Many routes cannot be protected. Crocker suggests a top-rope then solo ethic, but please rig to avoid eroding the edges.

Approach notes

It has been stated by the landowners that climbing on these crags are restricted due to rubbish being left at the crag and a reported fatality. However this fatality has not been confirmed as of 22AUG14, and the general consensus is that the littering is not the work of local climbers of the crag. Having said this, please respect the landowners decision and if you do venture down to the crag be sure to keep a low profile and collect any litter you see to ensure negotiations with the owners are successful.

"The BMC has been informed (05/02/09) by the landowners that climbing is not permitted on these crags.

The area is used for deer stalking between November and March - if you are asked to leave by Estate representatives during this period it may be wise to do so.

Please report any access difficulties to the BMC."

The above comes from the BMC RAD as of 5th March 2009. If you read the comments below, you will see an example of this new development with the landowners. If you do venture to this crag and have problems, please also post here as well as notifying the BMC.

From the Symonds Yat car parks, walk northwards down the road past a short open section and the Baptist Chapel. A bit further on, but prior to reaching the fork, take a signed footpath to the right marked Wye Valley Walk. After just over 100 yards another path doubles back to the right uphill, leading directly to Rainy Day Buttress.

There is also space for one car at a small layby on the left as you approach Symonds Yat at the start of the footpath.

Access Banned

The landowner has informed the BMC that they do not permit climbing. The area contains well used public footpaths (which pass through the crags), but it is claimed that deer stalking takes place between November and March. If you are asked to leave by Estate representatives during this period it may be wise to do so. Please report any access difficulties to the BMC.

As with any other crag grades are given for an onsight ascent without pads, worth noting for people climbing big E-grades for other styles of ascents. Maybe highball grades would be useful for some routes these days...
Fiend - 15/Dec/14
Please wipe your feet before setting off on problems and routes at Huntsham. I was at the Slug today and lots of the footholds were ingrained with mud. The rock is a touch soft there and it'll erode quickly if we don't all do our bit to look after it. Climbing with 'quiet' feet will really help too. Thank you - doing this'll be better for the rock and everyone who enjoys climbing on it! :-)
Joyce - 12/Oct/14
Access seems to be a problem once again, see my post on the forum. Please avoid or keep a low profile for the time-being, I'm hopeful formal access can be agreed.
tombeasley - 21/Aug/14
(8.6.14) I enjoyed my visit today. The main crag is fairly diry and overgrown but the boulders have been well maintained by someone. Darkside, Satellite, Sliced Slug, Bread Pudding and Rift boulders all appeared clean with good landings free from brambles. Thankyou to whoever has been doing this.
disturbed_one51 - 08/Jun/14
I've put a topo for bivi buttress on here if its of any use to anyone. http://travelswithrockboots.blogspot.co.uk/2013/11/if-you-go-down-to-woods-today.html
AJM - 06/Nov/13
BMC status on this crag is that it's banned, I've heard through the grapevine that people have climbed here multiple times without the landowner kicking up much fuss. Is this crag still viable to climb without getting a telling off or is it worth steering clear still?
Cypher - 01/Jun/12
Was here on Sunday (04/12/11) massivly overgrown but if you start at sugarlump boulder the path is clear.
Croakinglizard - 07/Dec/11
Some awsome problems, and only an hour from Bristol. Quite overgrown with brambles so wouldn't recomend wearing shorts!
Beastly Squirrel - 19/Apr/11
Enjoyed this visit 17/03/10. Pretty brambly but worth the effort. The flakes on the Slug was my highlight.
Gareth Bowen - 17/Mar/10
went bouldering here July 2009. Overgrown paths, so wear trousers and bring some cutters or a big bashing stick! Sometimes difficult to find the boulders because of all the brambles, but worth perservering as the rock is surprisingly solid (except where it's not!) Went to the sugarlump, dark side and rift boulder, all of which are worth the effort!
JHM - 11/Jul/09
We got asked to leave Huntsham Crag today; 20-03-09. Apparently its private property & the land owners are intending to email all the local climbing clubs & indoor walls to this effect. Has anybody got any comments on that?
them - 20/Mar/09
definetly is worth a visit. in recent issue of climber mag and there is an online topo by golden bicep. Some brilliant problems and very quite. All the good problems are clean and never mossy.
BenNorman - 30/Nov/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Riverside
2 Descent Path Arête
-
f4+  
3 Shadow of Death
-
E3 5c *  
4 Fear No Evil
-
E3 5b  
5 Rod and Staff
-
E5 6a *  
6 Table Niche
-
E3 5c  
7 The Overflowing
-
E3 5c  
8 Days og My Life
-
E4 6a  
9 House of the Lord
-
E6 6b **  
10 Ames Low - Slugtaste f7B ** 5
11 Don't Wake Up
-
E6 6b **  
12 Pelvic Flaw
-
E6 6c *  
13 Riverview Ramp
-
HVS 4b * 3
14 Riverview Wall
-
E4 5c 2
15 Life on the River
-
E2 5b  
16 Bitter Waters
-
E1 5a  
17 River Dance
-
E3 5c  
18 The Living Stream
-
E3 5c  
19 Solitary Scoop
-
HVS 5b  
20 Wedding Anniversary
-
E5 5c  
21 Six o'clock Start
-
HVS 4c  
22 River Phoenix
-
E4 5c *  
23 Fourteen Years Today
-
E1 5a *  
  Wye Knot Boulder
25 The Lurch
-
none 6a  
26 The Shelf
-
E1 6a  
27 Double Tap
-
E2 6b  
28 The Flake
-
none 6a  
29 The Crack none 6a 3
30 The Horn
-
none 6a  
31 Wye Knott Direct f5 2
32 The Arête f5+ 6
33 Wye Knot Traverse
-
none 6b/c  
  The Sponge
35 Pore Wars
-
HVS 5b  
36 Porisity Test
-
E1 5c  
37 Little Old Lady Shocker
-
E2 6a  
38 Wanna Scrap
-
E2 6a  
39 Fight for It
-
E3 6b  
40 Riverside Cruise E6 6c *** 2
41 My Canoe
-
E6 6c ***  
42 Fallguy
-
E6 6c ***  
43 Drifter
-
E6 6b ***  
44 Heaven's Open
-
E1 6a *  
45 Scalped Rib
-
HVS 4c  
46 Put the Squeeze On
-
none 6b  
  Final Buttress
48 Cheese Grater Chimney
-
S  
49 The Moule
-
S  
50 First Sun
-
E5 6b *  
51 The Final Word
-
E4 5c * 2
52 Wall of Pebbles
-
E4 5b  
53 Bright Shining
-
E2 6a  
54 A Thousand Years
-
HVS 5b  
55 Amazing Grace
-
E3 5b  
56 Lost Then Found
-
E1 5b  
57 Just Begun
-
E4 5c  
  Ruin Wall
59 The Pebblemaster
-
E5 6a * 3
60 Listen to the Pouring Rain
-
E3 5c  
61 Whitewash Wall
-
E3 5c 2
62 Ramp of Ruin
-
E2 5b *  
63 The Run In
-
E4 6a *  
64 The Big Fall
-
E6 6a *  
65 The Reubenite E5 5c *** 3
66 The Reunite
-
E5 6a **  
67 Hinge and Bracket E3 5b 3
68 The Open Gate E3 5c 3
  The Pyramid
70 Pharoah's Tomb
-
D 4
71 The Mummy
-
VS 4c 3
72 Valley of the Kings
-
HVS 5a 5
73 Egyptian Mummy's Day
-
E2 6a  
74 The Wonder
-
HVS 5a 2
  Bow Buttress
76 Mars Attack f5 1
77 Penguin
-
E3 5c  
78 Fun-size
-
E1 6a  
79 Twix
-
VS 4c * 4
80 Picnic
-
E3 6a *  
81 Independence Arete V3+  
  The Boulders
83 Breakaback
-
E5 6b  
84 Breakaleg
-
E6 6b *  
85 Man of Leaves
-
E5 6b *  
86 Wafer
-
E3 5b 2
87 Not Another Roadside Attraction
-
S 4a 2
88 Wan-tun
-
S 3
  Bivi Buttress
90 Grated Arm f6C 1
91 Short and Steep f6B 27
92 Impebbible f7A * 1
93 Bivi Groove Left f7A+ 8
94 Bivi groove f6B+ ** 26
95 Sand Smoked Bacon f6B+ * 12
96 Dexter f8B *** 1
97 Goliath Stand f7C+ 4
98 Goliath f8A+ ** 3
99 Goliath Extension f8B ** 2
100 The Hunter's Roof f8A *** 5
101 Hunter's Roof Stand f7C *** 2
102 Between the Lines f7B+ ** 28
103 Phil McRackin f7B+ * 5
104 Release the Kraken f7B+  
105 Peckitt roof f7C ** 21
106 Peckitt into Phil McRackin f7C * 1
107 Switching Lanes f7C * 6
108 End of the Line f6C+ * 13
109 Bivi Buttress Traverse f7A+ * 9
110 The Overnight Stay
-
E1 5b 7
111 On a Limb
-
E2 5c  
112 Dampday Arête
-
none 5a  
Climb name Grade
113 Mat Trepass E5 6a ** 5
114 Through Air E5 6b * 4
115 Rough Sleepers Initiative E2 6a 2
116 Friend In Kneed E4 5c 1
117 Kneeded Friends E5 6b * 3
118 Isaac's Blessing E6 6b ** 2
119 Five Alive E6 6a ** 5
120 Speaking in Tongues E5 6a ** 2
121 The Night Shelter E4 6a ** 1
122 Under Stars is Best f6C 46
  Shadow Boulder
124 Penumbra
-
D 3
125 The Golden Valley
-
E2 5c 3
126 Shadowlands
-
E5 5c *** 7
127 Sharing the Darkness E6 6a 1
128 Blinded by the Light E6 6b ** 1
129 Deep Forest Desires
-
E5 6b 1
  Sliced Slug Boulder
131 Lettuce Climb
-
HVS 5b 1
132 Stay on It E4 6c * 2
133 The Impale E1 5b 19
134 Golden Bicep (standing start) f6B+ 73
135 Golden Bicep (sit start) f6C+ ** 145
136 Golden Undercut f6C+ 8
137 The Flakes E1 5c 114
138 Underflake f5+ *** 30
139 Underflake (sit start) f6A *** 76
140 We're Chuffin' Awesome... and Other Stories! f7A 16
141 Right Flake f6B * 26
142 Upper flake f6A *** 16
143 Upper flake (sit start) f6A+ *** 46
144 Aimes wol f7A+ ** 20
145 Korky f7A 4
146 Glancing Blow f7B ** 1
147 Aimless f7A ** 7
148 Ames More or Less f7A 5
149 Slugtaste E4 6a 19
150 Ames Low E1 6c *** 76
151 Left hook f7B+ *** 7
152 Low Blow f7B+ ** 29
153 Ames High E1 6c ** 17
154 High Blow f7B+ ** 5
155 Ames Super High Way f7A+ *** 2
156 The Loop f8A ** 37
157 Slug It Out E3 6b * 4
158 Silke Smooth E1 5b 9
159 Slugback Rider E2 6a * 4
  Bread Pudding Boulder
161 Little Busy Lisi
-
E1 5b  
162 In Lard E2 6b * 4
163 Bread Pudding f5+ *** 76
164 Bread Pudding Dyno f7C  
165 Pudding Basin f6C ** 21
166 The Porthole f7A+ ** 42
167 Lick the Bowl f6C ** 67
168 Bara Brith f7B ** 3
169 Bowl rim extension f6C+ * 10
170 Bowl Rim f6A *** 96
171 Cream f6C+ * 31
172 Harpers Bazaar f6A+ * 10
173 The Gnarly Traverse f7C * 4
174 Doss Roof Right f6A * 7
  Rift Boulder
176 Slab Start f5+  
177 Rift Slab
-
f5  
178 Crack Start f4+  
179 Slanting Slab f4  
180 Split Personality
-
E2 6a  
181 Rib Tickler f6B * 2
182 The Bulge f4+ 18
183 Rift Crack
-
f5 1
184 Rift Crack - Sit Start f6B 27
185 Rift Crack - Right Side f4 * 22
186 Atrium Bulge f6C 3
187 Atrium Project f7A ** 8
188 Rift Wall Traverse f7A * 20
189 Rift Arête
-
f6A 1
190 Rift Arête - Sit Start f6B+ 15
191 Pebbles Revenge f6B+ * 9
192 Mid Rift f4 14
193 Rift Valley f6A+  
194 Rift Right f7C+  
195 The Steps f2 5
196 End the Rift f5 7
197 Sapling Finish f2+ 6
  Cube boulder
199 Rocket f6C ** 55
200 Cube left arête f5+ 9
201 No Font 5 Here f7A ** 1
202 Left Eye Socket f7A+ ** 12
203 Right Eye Socket f7A *** 18
204 One More Go f6C ** 10
205 The Edge f7A ** 5
  Hope Buttress
207 No-Hoper E3 5c 1
  Chockstone Buttress
209 Crouching the Log-up-me E6 6b ** 2
210 Essence of Being E6 6b/c *** 2
211 God the Rock E8 6c ** 1
212 Payback Time E6 6b ** 2
213 Headmare
-
HS 4b 3
214 Strongbow
-
E3 5b * 3
215 Valley Solicitor
-
E5 6a ** 4
216 Glory Days
-
E4 5c * 4
217 Triple Lock E5 6b ** 6
218 Square Eagle E2 6b 1
219 Alex's Roof f7A ** 53
220 Alex's Roof Direct f7A ** 6
221 Beware the Fascist f7B ** 5
222 Beware the Fascist Direct f7A+ *** 2
223 Shoehorn f7A+ ** 7
224 Slight Arete
-
V0- 4c 12
Climb name Grade
225 Half-Cracked
-
V0- 4c 12
226 Vein Wall
-
V0 5a 13
227 Chockahunas f7B *** 1
228 Pebble Practice
-
none 5c 26
229 Riverside Reach V1 * 2
230 The Nose
-
none 5c 5
  Bergerac Buttress
232 Alison's Chagrin E3 5b 4
233 Late Riser
-
E5 5c ** 14
234 Appointment With Beer E5 6b *** 31
235 Tequila Sunrise E5 6b ** 3
236 The Christening
-
E2 5b * 2
237 Gunpoint
-
E2 5b 19
238 Samuel Redbreast S/S f6B+ * 1
  Proboscis Buttress
240 Loss and Attachment
-
E3 5c *** 2
241 Proboscis
-
VS 5a *** 11
242 The Guy's High E2 5b 3
243 So Illicit HVS 4c 3
  Little Noses Bluff
245 Nosejob none 6a 3
246 Nose Picker
-
none 6a 4
247 Cyrano Wall none 6a 2
248 The Beak
-
none 5c 6
249 Retrousse Wall none 4c 1
250 Rockover Wall none 5b 4
251 The Hooter none 4b 4
  Crown Buttress
  Half moon boulder
254 Half Moon
-
E1 5a 2
255 The Rise And Fall Of The Splasher f7A+ 15
  Satellite boulder
257 Left Arete f5 12
258 Satellite Wall Low Traverse f6A * 21
259 Satellite Wall Mid Traverse f5 ** 42
260 Satellite Wall High Traverse f5+ * 13
261 Rumpy pumpy f6B * 4
262 The Jugs f4+ 71
263 Satellite Wall f5 * 79
264 The Scoop f6A ** 78
265 Oh Yeah f7A+ ** 3
266 Double Top f7A *** 6
  Elder Buttress
268 Roots & Shoots E4 5c * 1
269 Sausage on a Stick
-
E6 6a * 10
270 The Crystal Voyeur E6 6a/b *** 1
271 Feather Light Slab
-
E3 5b * 4
272 Featherweight E4 5c ** 3
273 Claim 2 Fame E7 6c 9
274 Deep Space
-
S 4a 10
275 Beside the Seaside
-
S 4a 11
276 Herpe's Hogmonay Hangover
-
HS 4b 8
  Choral Buttress
278 The Braille Snail
-
E5 6a ** 3
279 Woodlands
-
E3 5c 4
280 Bustin' E4 6b ** 10
281 Godfather Of Rock E6 6b *** 3
282 Song Child VS 4c * 10
283 Crack Dancer HVS 5b * 9
284 Masters of the Punyverse E6 6c *** 3
  5.5 Metre Wall
286 Heart for Pilgrimage
-
E4 5c * 2
  Upper Edge
288 Percy's Depression E4 6b ** 3
  Fin Buttress
290 In The Mist
-
E4 6b 3
291 Gorilla
-
VS 4b 4
292 Fin
-
VS 5c 6
293 Club Foot
-
VS 4c 5
294 Dusk Gully
-
VD 2
295 Take a Pebble
-
VS 4c * 3
296 The Selfish Child
-
E3 5b 3
297 Forty-three Today
-
E2 5b 3
298 Firstfoot
-
S 4a 3
  Mills Buttress
300 Imagine the Sea beneath Your Feet
-
E3 5c 2
301 Alpha S 4a 7
302 No Beta
-
E1 5a 2
303 Gîte de France
-
HS 4a 7
304 Thong
-
E2 5b 2
  Rainy Day Buttress
306 Legalized Grass
-
E2 5b 2
307 Wired for Wood
-
E3 6a 2
308 The Devil May Care E8 6c *** 1
309 Just Grab It! E6 6b ** 2
310 Blood Sucker VD 9
311 Snippet
-
E1 5b 5
  Isolated Buttress
313 Not Another 'One of the Best Climbers in the Country'
-
E1 5a 1
314 Media + climbers Don't Mix
-
E3 6a 1
315 A Camera-Shy Guy
-
E1 5a 2
316 While the Cat's Away
-
E2 5b 2
317 Illusions of Falling to Earth
-
E5 6a ** 1
318 Snapshot
-
E6 6b * 1
319 The Fickle Finger of Flake E6 6c * 1
  Dark side Boulder
321 Left Arete (S/S) f6C *** 9
322 Left Arête (Darkside Boulder) f6A+ 41
323 The Edges f6A 62
324 Give Me Light E1 5c 83
325 Pothole Arête f4 75
326 Darkside Traverse f6B+ *** 19
  Sugarlump Boulder
328 It Snapped! V5 6b 4
329 Badgered V1 5c 3
330 Oral Rope Burn Eliminate V2 5c 1
  Huntsham West
332 Kippered E4 6b * 2
333 Right Hand Man f6C+ *** 15
334 Up, Up And Away f5+  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers AMorris and Big Lee