UKC

Climbs 298
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 129m a.s.l
Faces E

Chris high on the classic Give Me Light V1 © MorganPreece

Crag features

Line of smallish grit-like sandstone-conglomerate crags and freestanding boulders, certainly worth a look, but be aware of access problems. Rarely busy. Single pitch routes to 15 metres.

Martin Crockers' 'The Sandstone Outcrops of the Forest of Dean' (Climbers' Club, 2006) is definitive for the main crag. The boulders are another matter!

Many routes cannot be protected. Crocker suggests a top-rope then solo ethic, but please rig to avoid eroding the edges.

Approach notes

It has been stated by the landowners that climbing on these crags are restricted due to rubbish being left at the crag and a reported fatality. However this fatality has not been confirmed as of 22AUG14, and the general consensus is that the littering is not the work of local climbers of the crag. Having said this, please respect the landowners decision and if you do venture down to the crag be sure to keep a low profile and collect any litter you see to ensure negotiations with the owners are successful.

"The BMC has been informed (05/02/09) by the landowners that climbing is not permitted on these crags.

The area is used for deer stalking between November and March - if you are asked to leave by Estate representatives during this period it may be wise to do so.

Please report any access difficulties to the BMC."

The above comes from the BMC RAD as of 5th March 2009. If you read the comments below, you will see an example of this new development with the landowners. If you do venture to this crag and have problems, please also post here as well as notifying the BMC.

From the Symonds Yat car parks, walk northwards down the road past a short open section and the Baptist Chapel. A bit further on, but prior to reaching the fork, take a signed footpath to the right marked Wye Valley Walk. After just over 100 yards another path doubles back to the right uphill, leading directly to Rainy Day Buttress.

There is also space for one car at a small layby on the left as you approach Symonds Yat at the start of the footpath.

Access Banned

The landowner has informed the BMC that they do not permit climbing. The area contains well used public footpaths (which pass through the crags), but it is claimed that deer stalking takes place between November and March. If you are asked to leave by Estate representatives during this period it may be wise to do so. Please report any access difficulties to the BMC.

As with any other crag grades are given for an onsight ascent without pads, worth noting for people climbing big E-grades for other styles of ascents. Maybe highball grades would be useful for some routes these days...
Fiend - 15/Dec/14
Please wipe your feet before setting off on problems and routes at Huntsham. I was at the Slug today and lots of the footholds were ingrained with mud. The rock is a touch soft there and it'll erode quickly if we don't all do our bit to look after it. Climbing with 'quiet' feet will really help too. Thank you - doing this'll be better for the rock and everyone who enjoys climbing on it! :-)
Joyce - 12/Oct/14
Access seems to be a problem once again, see my post on the forum. Please avoid or keep a low profile for the time-being, I'm hopeful formal access can be agreed.
tombeasley - 21/Aug/14
(8.6.14) I enjoyed my visit today. The main crag is fairly diry and overgrown but the boulders have been well maintained by someone. Darkside, Satellite, Sliced Slug, Bread Pudding and Rift boulders all appeared clean with good landings free from brambles. Thankyou to whoever has been doing this.
disturbed_one51 - 08/Jun/14
I've put a topo for bivi buttress on here if its of any use to anyone. http://travelswithrockboots.blogspot.co.uk/2013/11/if-you-go-down-to-woods-today.html
AJM - 06/Nov/13
BMC status on this crag is that it's banned, I've heard through the grapevine that people have climbed here multiple times without the landowner kicking up much fuss. Is this crag still viable to climb without getting a telling off or is it worth steering clear still?
Cypher - 01/Jun/12
Was here on Sunday (04/12/11) massivly overgrown but if you start at sugarlump boulder the path is clear.
Croakinglizard - 07/Dec/11
Some awsome problems, and only an hour from Bristol. Quite overgrown with brambles so wouldn't recomend wearing shorts!
Beastly Squirrel - 19/Apr/11
Enjoyed this visit 17/03/10. Pretty brambly but worth the effort. The flakes on the Slug was my highlight.
Gareth Bowen - 17/Mar/10
went bouldering here July 2009. Overgrown paths, so wear trousers and bring some cutters or a big bashing stick! Sometimes difficult to find the boulders because of all the brambles, but worth perservering as the rock is surprisingly solid (except where it's not!) Went to the sugarlump, dark side and rift boulder, all of which are worth the effort!
JHM - 11/Jul/09
We got asked to leave Huntsham Crag today; 20-03-09. Apparently its private property & the land owners are intending to email all the local climbing clubs & indoor walls to this effect. Has anybody got any comments on that?
them - 20/Mar/09
definetly is worth a visit. in recent issue of climber mag and there is an online topo by golden bicep. Some brilliant problems and very quite. All the good problems are clean and never mossy.
BenNorman - 30/Nov/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Riverside
2 Descent Path Arête
-
f4+  
3 Shadow of Death
-
E3 5c *  
4 Fear No Evil
-
E3 5b  
5 Rod and Staff
-
E5 6a *  
6 Table Niche
-
E3 5c  
7 The Overflowing
-
E3 5c  
8 Days og My Life
-
E4 6a  
9 House of the Lord
-
E6 6b **  
10 Ames Low - Slugtaste f7B ** 4
11 Don't Wake Up
-
E6 6b **  
12 Pelvic Flaw
-
E6 6c *  
13 Riverview Ramp
-
HVS 4b * 3
14 Riverview Wall
-
E4 5c 2
15 Life on the River
-
E2 5b  
16 Bitter Waters
-
E1 5a  
17 River Dance
-
E3 5c  
18 The Living Stream
-
E3 5c  
19 Solitary Scoop
-
HVS 5b  
20 Wedding Anniversary
-
E5 5c  
21 Six o'clock Start
-
HVS 4c  
22 River Phoenix
-
E4 5c *  
23 Fourteen Years Today
-
E1 5a *  
  Wye Knot Boulder
25 The Lurch
-
none 6a  
26 The Shelf
-
E1 6a  
27 Double Tap
-
E2 6b  
28 The Flake
-
none 6a  
29 The Crack none 6a 3
30 The Horn
-
none 6a  
31 Wye Knott Direct f5 2
32 The Arête f5+ 6
33 Wye Knot Traverse
-
none 6b/c  
  The Sponge
35 Pore Wars
-
HVS 5b  
36 Porisity Test
-
E1 5c  
37 Little Old Lady Shocker
-
E2 6a  
38 Wanna Scrap
-
E2 6a  
39 Fight for It
-
E3 6b  
40 Riverside Cruise E6 6c *** 2
41 My Canoe
-
E6 6c ***  
42 Fallguy
-
E6 6c ***  
43 Drifter
-
E6 6b ***  
44 Heaven's Open
-
E1 6a *  
45 Scalped Rib
-
HVS 4c  
46 Put the Squeeze On
-
none 6b  
  Final Buttress
48 Cheese Grater Chimney
-
S  
49 The Moule
-
S  
50 First Sun
-
E5 6b *  
51 The Final Word
-
E4 5c * 2
52 Wall of Pebbles
-
E4 5b  
53 Bright Shining
-
E2 6a  
54 A Thousand Years
-
HVS 5b  
55 Amazing Grace
-
E3 5b  
56 Lost Then Found
-
E1 5b  
57 Just Begun
-
E4 5c  
  Ruin Wall
59 The Pebblemaster
-
E5 6a * 3
60 Listen to the Pouring Rain
-
E3 5c  
61 Whitewash Wall
-
E3 5c 2
62 Ramp of Ruin
-
E2 5b *  
63 The Run In
-
E4 6a *  
64 The Big Fall
-
E6 6a *  
65 The Reubenite E5 5c *** 3
66 The Reunite
-
E5 6a **  
67 Hinge and Bracket E3 5b 3
68 The Open Gate E3 5c 3
  The Pyramid
70 Pharoah's Tomb
-
D 4
71 The Mummy
-
VS 4c 3
72 Valley of the Kings
-
HVS 5a 5
73 Egyptian Mummy's Day
-
E2 6a  
74 The Wonder
-
HVS 5a 2
  Bow Buttress
76 Mars Attack f5 1
77 Penguin
-
E3 5c  
78 Fun-size
-
E1 6a  
79 Twix
-
VS 4c * 4
80 Picnic
-
E3 6a *  
81 Independence Arete V3+  
  The Boulders
83 Breakaback
-
E5 6b  
84 Breakaleg
-
E6 6b *  
85 Man of Leaves
-
E5 6b *  
86 Wafer
-
E3 5b 2
87 Not Another Roadside Attraction
-
S 4a 2
88 Wan-tun
-
S 3
  Bivi Buttress
90 Grated Arm f6C 1
91 Short and Steep f6B 22
92 Bivi Groove Left f7A+ 8
93 Bivi groove f6B+ ** 19
94 Sand Smoked Bacon f6B+ * 11
95 Dexter f8B *** 1
96 Goliath Stand f7C+ 4
97 Goliath f8A+ ** 2
98 Goliath Extension f8B ** 2
99 The Hunter's Roof f8A *** 4
100 Hunter's Roof Stand f7C *** 2
101 Between the Lines f7B+ ** 28
102 Phil McRackin f7B+ * 5
103 Release the Kraken f7B+  
104 Peckitt roof f7C ** 19
105 Switching Lanes f7C * 5
106 End of the Line f6C+ * 12
107 Bivi Buttress Traverse f7A+ * 8
108 The Overnight Stay
-
E1 5b 7
109 On a Limb
-
E2 5c  
110 Dampday Arête
-
none 5a  
111 Mat Trepass E5 6a ** 5
Climb name Grade
112 Through Air E5 6b * 4
113 Rough Sleepers Initiative E2 6a 2
114 Friend In Kneed E4 5c 1
115 Kneeded Friends E5 6b * 3
116 Isaac's Blessing E6 6b ** 2
117 Five Alive E6 6a ** 5
118 Speaking in Tongues E5 6a ** 2
119 The Night Shelter E4 6a ** 1
120 Under Stars is Best E1 6a 42
  Shadow Boulder
122 Penumbra
-
D 3
123 The Golden Valley
-
E2 5c 3
124 Shadowlands
-
E5 5c *** 7
125 Sharing the Darkness E6 6a 1
126 Blinded by the Light E6 6b ** 1
127 Deep Forest Desires
-
E5 6b 1
  Sliced Slug Boulder
129 Lettuce Climb
-
HVS 5b 1
130 Stay on It E4 6c * 2
131 The Impale E1 5b 18
132 Golden Bicep (standing start) f6B+ 66
133 Golden Bicep (sit start) f6C+ ** 133
134 Golden Undercut f6C+ 7
135 The Flakes E1 5c 109
136 Underflake f5+ *** 25
137 Underflake (sit start) f6A *** 72
138 We're Chuffin' Awesome... and Other Stories! f7A 16
139 Right Flake f6B * 26
140 Upper flake f6A *** 15
141 Upper flake (sit start) f6A+ *** 45
142 Aimes wol f7A+ ** 20
143 Korky f7A 4
144 Glancing Blow f7B ** 1
145 Aimless f7A ** 7
146 Ames More or Less f7A 5
147 Slugtaste E4 6a 18
148 Ames Low E1 6c *** 74
149 Left hook f7B+ *** 7
150 Low Blow f7B+ ** 28
151 Ames High E1 6c ** 17
152 High Blow f7B+ ** 5
153 Ames Super High Way f7A+ *** 2
154 The Loop f8A ** 36
155 Slug It Out E3 6b * 4
156 Silke Smooth E1 5b 9
157 Slugback Rider E2 6a * 4
  Bread Pudding Boulder
159 Little Busy Lisi
-
E1 5b  
160 In Lard E2 6b * 4
161 Bread Pudding f5+ *** 70
162 Bread Pudding Dyno f7C  
163 Pudding Basin f6C ** 20
164 The Porthole f7A+ ** 39
165 Lick the Bowl f6C ** 65
166 Bara Brith f7B ** 3
167 Bowl rim extension f6C+ * 10
168 Bowl Rim f6A *** 94
169 Cream f6C+ * 29
170 Harpers Bazaar f6A+ * 8
171 The Gnarly Traverse f7C * 4
172 Doss Roof Right f6A * 6
  Rift Boulder
174 Slab Start f5+  
175 Rift Slab
-
f5  
176 Crack Start f4+  
177 Slanting Slab f4  
178 Split Personality
-
E2 6a  
179 Rib Tickler f6B * 2
180 The Bulge f4+ 18
181 Rift Crack
-
f5  
182 Rift Crack - Sit Start f6B 27
183 Rift Crack - Right Side f4 * 22
184 Atrium Bulge f6C 3
185 Atrium Project f7A ** 8
186 Rift Wall Traverse f7A * 19
187 Rift Arête
-
f6A  
188 Rift Arête - Sit Start f6B+ 15
189 Pebbles Revenge f6B+ * 8
190 Mid Rift f4 12
191 Rift Valley f6A+  
192 Rift Right f7C+  
193 The Steps f2 5
194 End the Rift f5 6
195 Sapling Finish f2+ 6
  Cube boulder
197 Rocket f6C ** 54
198 Cube left arête f5+ 9
199 No Font 5 Here f7A ** 1
200 Left Eye Socket f7A+ ** 12
201 Right Eye Socket f7A *** 16
202 One More Go f6C ** 10
203 The Edge f7A ** 4
  Hope Buttress
205 No-Hoper E3 5c 1
  Chockstone Buttress
207 Crouching the Log-up-me E6 6b ** 2
208 Essence of Being E6 6b/c *** 2
209 God the Rock E8 6c ** 1
210 Payback Time E6 6b ** 2
211 Headmare
-
HS 4b 3
212 Strongbow
-
E3 5b * 3
213 Valley Solicitor
-
E5 6a ** 4
214 Glory Days
-
E4 5c * 4
215 Triple Lock E5 6b ** 6
216 Square Eagle E2 6b 1
217 Alex's Roof f7A ** 52
218 Alex's Roof Direct f7A ** 5
219 Beware the Fascist f7B ** 5
220 Beware the Fascist Direct f7A+ *** 2
221 Shoehorn f7A+ ** 7
222 Slight Arete
-
V0- 4c 11
Climb name Grade
223 Half-Cracked
-
V0- 4c 11
224 Vein Wall
-
V0 5a 12
225 Chockahunas f7B *** 1
226 Pebble Practice
-
none 5c 25
227 Riverside Reach V1 * 1
228 The Nose
-
none 5c 4
  Bergerac Buttress
230 Alison's Chagrin E3 5b 4
231 Late Riser
-
E5 5c ** 13
232 Appointment With Beer E5 6b *** 30
233 Tequila Sunrise E5 6b ** 3
234 The Christening
-
E2 5b * 2
235 Gunpoint
-
E2 5b 17
236 Samuel Redbreast S/S f6B+ * 1
  Proboscis Buttress
238 Loss and Attachment
-
E3 5c *** 2
239 Proboscis
-
VS 5a *** 11
240 The Guy's High E2 5b 3
241 So Illicit HVS 4c 3
  Little Noses Bluff
243 Nosejob none 6a 2
244 Nose Picker
-
none 6a 3
245 Cyrano Wall none 6a 1
246 The Beak
-
none 5c 5
247 Retrousse Wall none 4c 1
248 Rockover Wall none 5b 3
249 The Hooter none 4b 3
  Crown Buttress
  Half moon boulder
252 The Rise And Fall Of The Splasher f7A+ 15
  Satellite boulder
254 Left Arete f5 8
255 Satellite Wall Low Traverse f6A * 19
256 Satellite Wall Mid Traverse f5 ** 38
257 Satellite Wall High Traverse f5+ * 13
258 Rumpy pumpy f6B * 4
259 The Jugs f4+ 66
260 Satellite Wall f5 * 70
261 The Scoop f6A ** 72
262 Oh Yeah f7A+ ** 3
263 Double Top f7A *** 6
  Elder Buttress
265 Roots & Shoots E4 5c * 1
266 Sausage on a Stick
-
E6 6a * 9
267 The Crystal Voyeur E6 6a/b *** 1
268 Feather Light Slab
-
E3 5b * 4
269 Featherweight E4 5c ** 3
270 Claim 2 Fame E7 6c 9
271 Deep Space
-
S 4a 10
272 Beside the Seaside
-
S 4a 11
273 Herpe's Hogmonay Hangover
-
HS 4b 8
  Choral Buttress
275 The Braille Snail
-
E5 6a ** 3
276 Woodlands
-
E3 5c 4
277 Bustin' E4 6b ** 10
278 Godfather Of Rock E6 6b *** 3
279 Song Child VS 4c * 10
280 Crack Dancer HVS 5b * 9
281 Masters of the Punyverse E6 6c *** 3
  5.5 Metre Wall
283 Heart for Pilgrimage
-
E4 5c * 2
  Upper Edge
285 Percy's Depression E4 6b ** 3
  Fin Buttress
287 In The Mist
-
E4 6b 3
288 Gorilla
-
VS 4b 4
289 Fin
-
VS 5c 6
290 Club Foot
-
VS 4c 5
291 Dusk Gully
-
VD 2
292 Take a Pebble
-
VS 4c * 3
293 The Selfish Child
-
E3 5b 3
294 Forty-three Today
-
E2 5b 3
295 Firstfoot
-
S 4a 3
  Mills Buttress
297 Imagine the Sea beneath Your Feet
-
E3 5c 2
298 Alpha S 4a 7
299 No Beta
-
E1 5a 2
300 Gîte de France
-
HS 4a 7
301 Thong
-
E2 5b 2
  Rainy Day Buttress
303 Legalized Grass
-
E2 5b 2
304 Wired for Wood
-
E3 6a 2
305 The Devil May Care E8 6c *** 1
306 Just Grab It! E6 6b ** 2
307 Blood Sucker VD 9
308 Snippet
-
E1 5b 5
  Isolated Buttress
310 Not Another 'One of the Best Climbers in the Country'
-
E1 5a 1
311 Media + climbers Don't Mix
-
E3 6a 1
312 A Camera-Shy Guy
-
E1 5a 2
313 While the Cat's Away
-
E2 5b 2
314 Illusions of Falling to Earth
-
E5 6a ** 1
315 Snapshot
-
E6 6b * 1
316 The Fickle Finger of Flake E6 6c * 1
  Dark side Boulder
318 Left Arete (S/S) f6C *** 9
319 Left Arête (Darkside Boulder) f6A+ 41
320 The Edges f6A 60
321 Give Me Light E1 5c 80
322 Pothole Arête f4 71
323 Darkside Traverse f6B+ *** 14
  Sugarlump Boulder
325 It Snapped! V5 6b 4
326 Badgered V1 5c 3
327 Oral Rope Burn Eliminate V2 5c 1
  Huntsham West
329 Kippered E4 6b * 2
330 Right Hand Man f6C+ *** 15
331 Up, Up And Away f5+  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers AMorris and Big Lee