Climbs 225
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 129m a.s.l
Faces E

Chris high on the classic Give Me Light V1 © MorganPreece

Crag features

Line of smallish grit-like sandstone-conglomerate crags and freestanding boulders, certainly worth a look, but be aware of access problems. Rarely busy. Single pitch routes to 15 metres.

Martin Crockers' 'The Sandstone Outcrops of the Forest of Dean' (Climbers' Club, 2006) is definitive for the main crag. The boulders are another matter!

Many routes cannot be protected. Crocker suggests a top-rope then solo ethic, but please rig to avoid eroding the edges.

Approach notes

It has been stated by the landowners that climbing on these crags are restricted due to rubbish being left at the crag and a reported fatality. However this fatality has not been confirmed as of 22AUG14, and the general consensus is that the littering is not the work of local climbers of the crag. Having said this, please respect the landowners decision and if you do venture down to the crag be sure to keep a low profile and collect any litter you see to ensure negotiations with the owners are successful.

"The BMC has been informed (05/02/09) by the landowners that climbing is not permitted on these crags.

The area is used for deer stalking between November and March - if you are asked to leave by Estate representatives during this period it may be wise to do so.

Please report any access difficulties to the BMC."

The above comes from the BMC RAD as of 5th March 2009. If you read the comments below, you will see an example of this new development with the landowners. If you do venture to this crag and have problems, please also post here as well as notifying the BMC.

From the Symonds Yat car parks, walk northwards down the road past a short open section and the Baptist Chapel. A bit further on, but prior to reaching the fork, take a signed footpath to the right marked Wye Valley Walk. After just over 100 yards another path doubles back to the right uphill, leading directly to Rainy Day Buttress.

There is also space for one car at a small layby on the left as you approach Symonds Yat at the start of the footpath.

Access Banned

The landowner has informed the BMC that they do not permit climbing. The area contains well used public footpaths (which pass through the crags), but it is claimed that deer stalking takes place between November and March. If you are asked to leave by Estate representatives during this period it may be wise to do so. Please report any access difficulties to the BMC.

As with any other crag grades are given for an onsight ascent without pads, worth noting for people climbing big E-grades for other styles of ascents. Maybe highball grades would be useful for some routes these days...
Fiend - 15/Dec/14
Please wipe your feet before setting off on problems and routes at Huntsham. I was at the Slug today and lots of the footholds were ingrained with mud. The rock is a touch soft there and it'll erode quickly if we don't all do our bit to look after it. Climbing with 'quiet' feet will really help too. Thank you - doing this'll be better for the rock and everyone who enjoys climbing on it! :-)
Joyce - 12/Oct/14
Access seems to be a problem once again, see my post on the forum. Please avoid or keep a low profile for the time-being, I'm hopeful formal access can be agreed.
tombeasley - 21/Aug/14
(8.6.14) I enjoyed my visit today. The main crag is fairly diry and overgrown but the boulders have been well maintained by someone. Darkside, Satellite, Sliced Slug, Bread Pudding and Rift boulders all appeared clean with good landings free from brambles. Thankyou to whoever has been doing this.
disturbed_one51 - 08/Jun/14
I've put a topo for bivi buttress on here if its of any use to anyone. http://travelswithrockboots.blogspot.co.uk/2013/11/if-you-go-down-to-woods-today.html
AJM - 06/Nov/13
BMC status on this crag is that it's banned, I've heard through the grapevine that people have climbed here multiple times without the landowner kicking up much fuss. Is this crag still viable to climb without getting a telling off or is it worth steering clear still?
Cypher - 01/Jun/12
Was here on Sunday (04/12/11) massivly overgrown but if you start at sugarlump boulder the path is clear.
Croakinglizard - 07/Dec/11
Some awsome problems, and only an hour from Bristol. Quite overgrown with brambles so wouldn't recomend wearing shorts!
Beastly Squirrel - 19/Apr/11
Enjoyed this visit 17/03/10. Pretty brambly but worth the effort. The flakes on the Slug was my highlight.
Gareth Bowen - 17/Mar/10
went bouldering here July 2009. Overgrown paths, so wear trousers and bring some cutters or a big bashing stick! Sometimes difficult to find the boulders because of all the brambles, but worth perservering as the rock is surprisingly solid (except where it's not!) Went to the sugarlump, dark side and rift boulder, all of which are worth the effort!
Jeronimo - 11/Jul/09
We got asked to leave Huntsham Crag today; 20-03-09. Apparently its private property & the land owners are intending to email all the local climbing clubs & indoor walls to this effect. Has anybody got any comments on that?
them - 20/Mar/09
definetly is worth a visit. in recent issue of climber mag and there is an online topo by golden bicep. Some brilliant problems and very quite. All the good problems are clean and never mossy.
BenNorman - 30/Nov/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Huntsham West 
2KipperedE4 6b *2
 Sugarlump Boulder 
4It Snapped!V5 4
5BadgeredV1 3
 Dark side Boulder 
7Left Arete (S/S)f6C ***9
8Left Arête (Darkside Boulder)f6A+ 40
9The Edgesf6A 58
10Give Me LightE1 5c 73
11Pothole Arêtef4 63
12Darkside Traversef6B+ ***12
 Isolated Buttress 
14A Camera-Shy Guy
-
E1 5a 2
15While the Cat's Away
-
E2 5b 2
16The Fickle Finger of Flake *E6 6c 1
17Illusions of Falling to Earth *
-
E5 6a 1
18Snapshot *
-
E6 6b 1
 Rainy Day Buttress 
20The Devil May CareE8 6c ***1
21Just Grab It!E6 6b **3
22Blood SuckerVD 9
23Snippet
-
E1 5b 5
 Mills Buttress 
25AlphaS 4a 7
26No Beta
-
E1 5a 2
27Gîte de France
-
HS 4a 8
 Upper Edge 
29In The Mist
-
E4 6b 3
30Gorilla
-
VS 4b 4
31Fin
-
VS 5c 6
32Club Foot
-
VS 4c 5
33Take a Pebble
-
VS 4c *3
34The Selfish Child
-
E3 5b 3
35Forty-three Today
-
E2 5b 3
36Firstfoot
-
S 4a 3
 Choral Buttress 
38The Braille Snail
-
E5 6a **3
39Woodlands
-
E3 5c 3
40Bustin'E4 6b **10
41Godfather Of RockE6 6b ***3
42Song ChildVS 4c *9
43Crack DancerHVS 5b *8
44Masters of the PunyverseE6 6c ***3
 Elder Buttress 
46Sausage on a Stick
-
E6 6a *9
47Feather Light Slab
-
E3 5b *4
48FeatherweightE4 5c **3
49Claim 2 FameE7 6c 10
50Deep Space
-
S 4a 11
51Beside the Seaside
-
S 4a 12
52Herpe's Hogmonay Hangover
-
HS 4b 8
53Roots & Shoots *E4 5c 1
54The Crystal Voyeur *E6 6a/b 1
 Crown Buttress 
 Proboscis Buttress 
57Proboscis
-
VS 5a ***11
 Little Noses Bluff Bouldering 
59Retrousse WallV0 1
60Rockover WallV0 3
61The HooterV1 3
 Bergerac Buttress 
63Late Riser
-
E5 5c **15
64Appointment With BeerE5 6b ***28
65Tequila SunriseE5 6b **3
66The Christening
-
E2 5b *2
67Gunpoint
-
E2 5b 17
68Samuel Redbreast S/Sf6B+ *1
 chockstone buttress 
70Crouching the Log-up-meE6 6b **2
71Essence of BeingE6 6b/c ***2
72Payback TimeE6 6b **2
73Glory Days
-
E4 5c *4
74Triple LockE5 6b **6
75Alex's Rooff7A **52
76Alex's Roof Directf7A **5
77Beware the Fascistf7B **6
78Beware the Fascist Directf7A+ ***2
79Shoehornf7A+ **8
80Slight Arete
-
V0- 10
81Half-Cracked
-
V0- 10
82Vein Wall
-
V0 11
83Chockahunasf7B ***2
84God the Rock *E8 6c 1
 Rift Boulder 
86Rib Ticklerf6B *2
87The Bulgef4+ 18
88Rift Crackf6B 23
89Atrium bulgef6C **3
90Atrium Projectf7A **7
91Rift Wall Traversef7A *17
92Rift Aretef6B+ 15
93Pebbles Revengef6B+ *7
94Mid Riftf4 9
95Crack Right, Rift Boulderf4 *22
96Rift Valley Low Startf6B+  
97Rift Rightf7C+  
98End the riftf4+ 4
99Sapling Finishf3+ 3
 Bread Pudding Boulder 
101In Lardf6A+ *4
102Bread Puddingf5+ ***61
103Bread Pudding Dynof7C  
104Pudding Basinf6C **18
105The Portholef7A+ **43
106Lick the Bowlf6C **60
107Bara Brith *f7B **3
108Bowl rim extensionf6C+ *10
109Bowl Rimf6A ***83
110Creamf6C+ *29
111Harpers Bazaarf6A+ *8
112The Gnarly Traversef7C *4
113Doss Roof Rightf6A *6
 Sliced slug boulder 
115Stay on ItE4 6c *2
116The ImpaleE1 5b 17
117Golden Bicep (standing start)f6B+ 61
118Golden Bicep (sit start)f6C+ **124
119Golden Undercutf6C+ 5
120The FlakesE1 5c 105
121Underflakef5+ ***20
122Underflake (sit start)f6A ***57
123We're Chuffin' Awesome... and Other Stories!f7A 16
124Right Flakef6B *23
125Upper flakef6A ***14
126Upper flake (sit start)f6A+ ***42
127Aimes wolf7A+ **20
128Korkyf7A 4
129Glancing Blowf7B **1
130Aimlessf7A **8
131Ames More or Lessf7A 5
132SlugtasteE4 6a 19
133Ames Lowf7A+ ***74
134Ames Low - Slugtastef7B **4
135Left hookf7B+ ***7
136Low Blowf7B+ **28
137Ames Highf7A+ **17
138High Blowf7B+ **5
139Ames Super High Wayf7A+ ***2
140The Loop8a **36
141Lettuce Climb
-
HVS 5b 1
142Slugback RiderE2 6a *4
143Slug It OutE3 6b *4
144Silke Smoothf6A 6
 Shadow Boulder 
146Penumbra
-
D 3
147The Golden Valley
-
E2 5c 3
148Shadowlands
-
E5 5c ***7
149Sharing the DarknessE6 6a 1
150Blinded by the LightE6 6b **1
151Deep Forest Desires
-
E5 6b 1
 Bivi Buttress 
153Mat TrepassE5 6a **6
154Through AirE5 6b *4
155Five AliveE6 6a **5
156Rough Sleepers InitiativeE2 6a 3
157Friend In KneedE4 5c 1
158Kneeded FriendsE5 6b *3
159Speaking in TonguesE5 6a **3
160The Overnight Stay
-
E1 5b 8
161Grated Armf6C 2
162Short and Steepf6B 16
163Bivi Groove Leftf7A+ 7
164Bivi groovef6B+ **19
165Sand Smoked Baconf6B+ *11
166Goliath Standf7C+ 4
167Goliathf8A+ **2
168The Hunter's Rooff8A ***7
169Hunter's Roof Standf7C ***1
170Between the Linesf7B+ **30
171Phil McRackinf7B+ *6
172Release the Krakenf7B+  
173Peckitt rooff7C **26
174Switching Lanesf7C *4
175Under Stars is Bestf6B+ 39
176Bivi Buttress Traversef7A+ *10
177End of the Linef6C+ *12
178Goliath Extension *f8B **2
 The Boulders 
180Wafer
-
E3 5b 2
181Not Another Roadside Attraction
-
S 4a 2
182Wan-tun
-
S 3
 Bow Buttress 
184Twix
-
VS 4c *4
 The Pyramid 
186Pharoah's Tomb
-
D 4
187The Mummy
-
VS 4c 3
188Valley of the Kings
-
HVS 5a 5
189The Wonder
-
HVS 5a 2
 Ruin Wall 
191The Pebblemaster
-
E5 6a *3
192Whitewash Wall
-
E3 5c 2
 Final Buttress 
194The Final Word
-
E4 5c *2
 The Sponge 
196Riverside Cruise
-
E6 6c ***2
197The Aretef5+ 4
 Riverside 
199Riverview Ramp
-
HVS 4b *3
200Riverview Wall
-
E4 5c 2
201Pebble Practice
-
V1 ***23
202Riverside ReachV1 * 
203The Nose
-
V0- 3
204Nose Picker
-
V2 3
205The Beak
-
V1 5
206Oral Rope Burn EliminateV2 1
 Cube boulder 
208Rocketf6C **52
209Cube left arêtef5+ 9
210No Font 5 'Eref7A **1
211Left Eye Socketf7A+ **16
212Right Eye Socketf7A ***16
213One More Gof6C **10
214The Edgef7A **4
 Satellite boulder 
216The Stepsf2+ 3
217Left Aretef5 6
218Satellite Wall Low Traversef6A *17
219Satellite Wall Mid Traversef5 **32
220Satellite Wall High Traversef5+ *12
221Rumpy pumpyf6B *4
222The Jugsf4+ 62
223Satellite Wallf5 *60
224The Scoopf6A **65
225Oh Yeahf7A+ **2
226Double Topf7A ***6
227Right Hand Manf6C+ ***15
 Half moon boulder 
229The Rise And Fall Of The Splasherf7A+ *21
230NosejobV2 2
231Cyrano WallV2 1
232Headmare
-
HS 4b 3
233Strongbow
-
E3 5b *3
234Valley Solicitor
-
E5 6a **4
235Square EagleV3 *1
236Dusk Gully
-
VD 2
237The Guy's HighE2 5b 3
238So IllicitHVS 4c 3
239Percy's DepressionE4 6b **3
240Alison's ChagrinE3 5b 4
241The ReubeniteE5 5c ***3
242Hinge and BracketE3 5b 3
243The Open GateE3 5c 3
244Loss and Attachment
-
E3 5c ***2
245Heart for Pilgrimage
-
E4 5c *2
246Legalized Grass
-
E2 5b 2
247Wired for Wood
-
E3 6a 2
248Thong
-
E2 5b 2
249Imagine the Sea beneath Your Feet
-
E3 5c 2
250Up, Up And Away *f5+  
251Not Another 'One of the Best Climbers in the Country' *
-
E1 5a 1
252Media + climbers Don't Mix *
-
E3 6a 1
253Isaac's Blessing *E6 6b **2
254The Night Shelter *E4 6a **2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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