UKC

Climbs 299
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 129m a.s.l
Faces E

Chris high on the classic Give Me Light V1 © MorganPreece

Crag features

Line of smallish grit-like sandstone-conglomerate crags and freestanding boulders, certainly worth a look, but be aware of access problems. Rarely busy. Single pitch routes to 15 metres.

Martin Crockers' 'The Sandstone Outcrops of the Forest of Dean' (Climbers' Club, 2006) is definitive for the main crag. The boulders are another matter!

Many routes cannot be protected. Crocker suggests a top-rope then solo ethic, but please rig to avoid eroding the edges.

Approach notes

It has been stated by the landowners that climbing on these crags are restricted due to rubbish being left at the crag and a reported fatality. However this fatality has not been confirmed as of 22AUG14, and the general consensus is that the littering is not the work of local climbers of the crag. Having said this, please respect the landowners decision and if you do venture down to the crag be sure to keep a low profile and collect any litter you see to ensure negotiations with the owners are successful.

"The BMC has been informed (05/02/09) by the landowners that climbing is not permitted on these crags.

The area is used for deer stalking between November and March - if you are asked to leave by Estate representatives during this period it may be wise to do so.

Please report any access difficulties to the BMC."

The above comes from the BMC RAD as of 5th March 2009. If you read the comments below, you will see an example of this new development with the landowners. If you do venture to this crag and have problems, please also post here as well as notifying the BMC.

From the Symonds Yat car parks, walk northwards down the road past a short open section and the Baptist Chapel. A bit further on, but prior to reaching the fork, take a signed footpath to the right marked Wye Valley Walk. After just over 100 yards another path doubles back to the right uphill, leading directly to Rainy Day Buttress.

There is also space for one car at a small layby on the left as you approach Symonds Yat at the start of the footpath.

Access Banned

The landowner has informed the BMC that they do not permit climbing. The area contains well used public footpaths (which pass through the crags), but it is claimed that deer stalking takes place between November and March. If you are asked to leave by Estate representatives during this period it may be wise to do so. Please report any access difficulties to the BMC.

As with any other crag grades are given for an onsight ascent without pads, worth noting for people climbing big E-grades for other styles of ascents. Maybe highball grades would be useful for some routes these days...
Fiend - 15/Dec/14
Please wipe your feet before setting off on problems and routes at Huntsham. I was at the Slug today and lots of the footholds were ingrained with mud. The rock is a touch soft there and it'll erode quickly if we don't all do our bit to look after it. Climbing with 'quiet' feet will really help too. Thank you - doing this'll be better for the rock and everyone who enjoys climbing on it! :-)
Joyce - 12/Oct/14
Access seems to be a problem once again, see my post on the forum. Please avoid or keep a low profile for the time-being, I'm hopeful formal access can be agreed.
tombeasley - 21/Aug/14
(8.6.14) I enjoyed my visit today. The main crag is fairly diry and overgrown but the boulders have been well maintained by someone. Darkside, Satellite, Sliced Slug, Bread Pudding and Rift boulders all appeared clean with good landings free from brambles. Thankyou to whoever has been doing this.
disturbed_one51 - 08/Jun/14
I've put a topo for bivi buttress on here if its of any use to anyone. http://travelswithrockboots.blogspot.co.uk/2013/11/if-you-go-down-to-woods-today.html
AJM - 06/Nov/13
BMC status on this crag is that it's banned, I've heard through the grapevine that people have climbed here multiple times without the landowner kicking up much fuss. Is this crag still viable to climb without getting a telling off or is it worth steering clear still?
Cypher - 01/Jun/12
Was here on Sunday (04/12/11) massivly overgrown but if you start at sugarlump boulder the path is clear.
Croakinglizard - 07/Dec/11
Some awsome problems, and only an hour from Bristol. Quite overgrown with brambles so wouldn't recomend wearing shorts!
Beastly Squirrel - 19/Apr/11
Enjoyed this visit 17/03/10. Pretty brambly but worth the effort. The flakes on the Slug was my highlight.
Gareth Bowen - 17/Mar/10
went bouldering here July 2009. Overgrown paths, so wear trousers and bring some cutters or a big bashing stick! Sometimes difficult to find the boulders because of all the brambles, but worth perservering as the rock is surprisingly solid (except where it's not!) Went to the sugarlump, dark side and rift boulder, all of which are worth the effort!
JHM - 11/Jul/09
We got asked to leave Huntsham Crag today; 20-03-09. Apparently its private property & the land owners are intending to email all the local climbing clubs & indoor walls to this effect. Has anybody got any comments on that?
them - 20/Mar/09
definetly is worth a visit. in recent issue of climber mag and there is an online topo by golden bicep. Some brilliant problems and very quite. All the good problems are clean and never mossy.
BenNorman - 30/Nov/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Riverside
2 Descent Path Arête
-
f4+  
3 Shadow of Death
-
E3 5c *  
4 Fear No Evil
-
E3 5b  
5 Rod and Staff
-
E5 6a *  
6 Table Niche
-
E3 5c  
7 The Overflowing
-
E3 5c  
8 Days og My Life
-
E4 6a  
9 House of the Lord
-
E6 6b **  
10 Ames Low - Slugtaste f7B ** 4
11 Don't Wake Up
-
E6 6b **  
12 Pelvic Flaw
-
E6 6c *  
13 Riverview Ramp
-
HVS 4b * 3
14 Riverview Wall
-
E4 5c 2
15 Life on the River
-
E2 5b  
16 Bitter Waters
-
E1 5a  
17 River Dance
-
E3 5c  
18 The Living Stream
-
E3 5c  
19 Solitary Scoop
-
HVS 5b  
20 Wedding Anniversary
-
E5 5c  
21 Six o'clock Start
-
HVS 4c  
22 River Phoenix
-
E4 5c *  
23 Fourteen Years Today
-
E1 5a *  
  Wye Knot Boulder
25 The Lurch
-
none 6a  
26 The Shelf
-
E1 6a  
27 Double Tap
-
E2 6b  
28 The Flake
-
none 6a  
29 The Crack none 6a 3
30 The Horn
-
none 6a  
31 Wye Knott Direct f5 2
32 The Arête f5+ 6
33 Wye Knot Traverse
-
none 6b/c  
  The Sponge
35 Pore Wars
-
HVS 5b  
36 Porisity Test
-
E1 5c  
37 Little Old Lady Shocker
-
E2 6a  
38 Wanna Scrap
-
E2 6a  
39 Fight for It
-
E3 6b  
40 Riverside Cruise E6 6c *** 2
41 My Canoe
-
E6 6c ***  
42 Fallguy
-
E6 6c ***  
43 Drifter
-
E6 6b ***  
44 Heaven's Open
-
E1 6a *  
45 Scalped Rib
-
HVS 4c  
46 Put the Squeeze On
-
none 6b  
  Final Buttress
48 Cheese Grater Chimney
-
S  
49 The Moule
-
S  
50 First Sun
-
E5 6b *  
51 The Final Word
-
E4 5c * 2
52 Wall of Pebbles
-
E4 5b  
53 Bright Shining
-
E2 6a  
54 A Thousand Years
-
HVS 5b  
55 Amazing Grace
-
E3 5b  
56 Lost Then Found
-
E1 5b  
57 Just Begun
-
E4 5c  
  Ruin Wall
59 The Pebblemaster
-
E5 6a * 3
60 Listen to the Pouring Rain
-
E3 5c  
61 Whitewash Wall
-
E3 5c 2
62 Ramp of Ruin
-
E2 5b *  
63 The Run In
-
E4 6a *  
64 The Big Fall
-
E6 6a *  
65 The Reubenite E5 5c *** 3
66 The Reunite
-
E5 6a **  
67 Hinge and Bracket E3 5b 3
68 The Open Gate E3 5c 3
  The Pyramid
70 Pharoah's Tomb
-
D 4
71 The Mummy
-
VS 4c 3
72 Valley of the Kings
-
HVS 5a 5
73 Egyptian Mummy's Day
-
E2 6a  
74 The Wonder
-
HVS 5a 2
  Bow Buttress
76 Mars Attack f5 1
77 Penguin
-
E3 5c  
78 Fun-size
-
E1 6a  
79 Twix
-
VS 4c * 4
80 Picnic
-
E3 6a *  
81 Independence Arete V3+  
  The Boulders
83 Breakaback
-
E5 6b  
84 Breakaleg
-
E6 6b *  
85 Man of Leaves
-
E5 6b *  
86 Wafer
-
E3 5b 2
87 Not Another Roadside Attraction
-
S 4a 2
88 Wan-tun
-
S 3
  Bivi Buttress
90 Grated Arm f6C 1
91 Short and Steep f6B 22
92 Impebbible f7A * 1
93 Bivi Groove Left f7A+ 8
94 Bivi groove f6B+ ** 20
95 Sand Smoked Bacon f6B+ * 11
96 Dexter f8B *** 1
97 Goliath Stand f7C+ 4
98 Goliath f8A+ ** 2
99 Goliath Extension f8B ** 2
100 The Hunter's Roof f8A *** 4
101 Hunter's Roof Stand f7C *** 2
102 Between the Lines f7B+ ** 28
103 Phil McRackin f7B+ * 5
104 Release the Kraken f7B+  
105 Peckitt roof f7C ** 19
106 Switching Lanes f7C * 5
107 End of the Line f6C+ * 12
108 Bivi Buttress Traverse f7A+ * 8
109 The Overnight Stay
-
E1 5b 7
110 On a Limb
-
E2 5c  
111 Dampday Arête
-
none 5a  
Climb name Grade
112 Mat Trepass E5 6a ** 5
113 Through Air E5 6b * 4
114 Rough Sleepers Initiative E2 6a 2
115 Friend In Kneed E4 5c 1
116 Kneeded Friends E5 6b * 3
117 Isaac's Blessing E6 6b ** 2
118 Five Alive E6 6a ** 5
119 Speaking in Tongues E5 6a ** 2
120 The Night Shelter E4 6a ** 1
121 Under Stars is Best f6C 42
  Shadow Boulder
123 Penumbra
-
D 3
124 The Golden Valley
-
E2 5c 3
125 Shadowlands
-
E5 5c *** 7
126 Sharing the Darkness E6 6a 1
127 Blinded by the Light E6 6b ** 1
128 Deep Forest Desires
-
E5 6b 1
  Sliced Slug Boulder
130 Lettuce Climb
-
HVS 5b 1
131 Stay on It E4 6c * 2
132 The Impale E1 5b 18
133 Golden Bicep (standing start) f6B+ 67
134 Golden Bicep (sit start) f6C+ ** 134
135 Golden Undercut f6C+ 7
136 The Flakes E1 5c 109
137 Underflake f5+ *** 25
138 Underflake (sit start) f6A *** 72
139 We're Chuffin' Awesome... and Other Stories! f7A 16
140 Right Flake f6B * 26
141 Upper flake f6A *** 15
142 Upper flake (sit start) f6A+ *** 45
143 Aimes wol f7A+ ** 20
144 Korky f7A 4
145 Glancing Blow f7B ** 1
146 Aimless f7A ** 7
147 Ames More or Less f7A 5
148 Slugtaste E4 6a 18
149 Ames Low E1 6c *** 74
150 Left hook f7B+ *** 7
151 Low Blow f7B+ ** 28
152 Ames High E1 6c ** 17
153 High Blow f7B+ ** 5
154 Ames Super High Way f7A+ *** 2
155 The Loop f8A ** 36
156 Slug It Out E3 6b * 4
157 Silke Smooth E1 5b 9
158 Slugback Rider E2 6a * 4
  Bread Pudding Boulder
160 Little Busy Lisi
-
E1 5b  
161 In Lard E2 6b * 4
162 Bread Pudding f5+ *** 70
163 Bread Pudding Dyno f7C  
164 Pudding Basin f6C ** 20
165 The Porthole f7A+ ** 39
166 Lick the Bowl f6C ** 65
167 Bara Brith f7B ** 3
168 Bowl rim extension f6C+ * 10
169 Bowl Rim f6A *** 94
170 Cream f6C+ * 29
171 Harpers Bazaar f6A+ * 8
172 The Gnarly Traverse f7C * 4
173 Doss Roof Right f6A * 6
  Rift Boulder
175 Slab Start f5+  
176 Rift Slab
-
f5  
177 Crack Start f4+  
178 Slanting Slab f4  
179 Split Personality
-
E2 6a  
180 Rib Tickler f6B * 2
181 The Bulge f4+ 18
182 Rift Crack
-
f5  
183 Rift Crack - Sit Start f6B 27
184 Rift Crack - Right Side f4 * 22
185 Atrium Bulge f6C 3
186 Atrium Project f7A ** 8
187 Rift Wall Traverse f7A * 19
188 Rift Arête
-
f6A  
189 Rift Arête - Sit Start f6B+ 15
190 Pebbles Revenge f6B+ * 8
191 Mid Rift f4 12
192 Rift Valley f6A+  
193 Rift Right f7C+  
194 The Steps f2 5
195 End the Rift f5 6
196 Sapling Finish f2+ 6
  Cube boulder
198 Rocket f6C ** 54
199 Cube left arête f5+ 9
200 No Font 5 Here f7A ** 1
201 Left Eye Socket f7A+ ** 12
202 Right Eye Socket f7A *** 16
203 One More Go f6C ** 10
204 The Edge f7A ** 4
  Hope Buttress
206 No-Hoper E3 5c 1
  Chockstone Buttress
208 Crouching the Log-up-me E6 6b ** 2
209 Essence of Being E6 6b/c *** 2
210 God the Rock E8 6c ** 1
211 Payback Time E6 6b ** 2
212 Headmare
-
HS 4b 3
213 Strongbow
-
E3 5b * 3
214 Valley Solicitor
-
E5 6a ** 4
215 Glory Days
-
E4 5c * 4
216 Triple Lock E5 6b ** 6
217 Square Eagle E2 6b 1
218 Alex's Roof f7A ** 52
219 Alex's Roof Direct f7A ** 5
220 Beware the Fascist f7B ** 5
221 Beware the Fascist Direct f7A+ *** 2
222 Shoehorn f7A+ ** 7
Climb name Grade
223 Slight Arete
-
V0- 4c 11
224 Half-Cracked
-
V0- 4c 11
225 Vein Wall
-
V0 5a 12
226 Chockahunas f7B *** 1
227 Pebble Practice
-
none 5c 25
228 Riverside Reach V1 * 1
229 The Nose
-
none 5c 4
  Bergerac Buttress
231 Alison's Chagrin E3 5b 4
232 Late Riser
-
E5 5c ** 13
233 Appointment With Beer E5 6b *** 30
234 Tequila Sunrise E5 6b ** 3
235 The Christening
-
E2 5b * 2
236 Gunpoint
-
E2 5b 17
237 Samuel Redbreast S/S f6B+ * 1
  Proboscis Buttress
239 Loss and Attachment
-
E3 5c *** 2
240 Proboscis
-
VS 5a *** 11
241 The Guy's High E2 5b 3
242 So Illicit HVS 4c 3
  Little Noses Bluff
244 Nosejob none 6a 2
245 Nose Picker
-
none 6a 3
246 Cyrano Wall none 6a 1
247 The Beak
-
none 5c 5
248 Retrousse Wall none 4c 1
249 Rockover Wall none 5b 3
250 The Hooter none 4b 3
  Crown Buttress
  Half moon boulder
253 The Rise And Fall Of The Splasher f7A+ 15
  Satellite boulder
255 Left Arete f5 9
256 Satellite Wall Low Traverse f6A * 19
257 Satellite Wall Mid Traverse f5 ** 38
258 Satellite Wall High Traverse f5+ * 13
259 Rumpy pumpy f6B * 4
260 The Jugs f4+ 67
261 Satellite Wall f5 * 71
262 The Scoop f6A ** 72
263 Oh Yeah f7A+ ** 3
264 Double Top f7A *** 6
  Elder Buttress
266 Roots & Shoots E4 5c * 1
267 Sausage on a Stick
-
E6 6a * 9
268 The Crystal Voyeur E6 6a/b *** 1
269 Feather Light Slab
-
E3 5b * 4
270 Featherweight E4 5c ** 3
271 Claim 2 Fame E7 6c 9
272 Deep Space
-
S 4a 10
273 Beside the Seaside
-
S 4a 11
274 Herpe's Hogmonay Hangover
-
HS 4b 8
  Choral Buttress
276 The Braille Snail
-
E5 6a ** 3
277 Woodlands
-
E3 5c 4
278 Bustin' E4 6b ** 10
279 Godfather Of Rock E6 6b *** 3
280 Song Child VS 4c * 10
281 Crack Dancer HVS 5b * 9
282 Masters of the Punyverse E6 6c *** 3
  5.5 Metre Wall
284 Heart for Pilgrimage
-
E4 5c * 2
  Upper Edge
286 Percy's Depression E4 6b ** 3
  Fin Buttress
288 In The Mist
-
E4 6b 3
289 Gorilla
-
VS 4b 4
290 Fin
-
VS 5c 6
291 Club Foot
-
VS 4c 5
292 Dusk Gully
-
VD 2
293 Take a Pebble
-
VS 4c * 3
294 The Selfish Child
-
E3 5b 3
295 Forty-three Today
-
E2 5b 3
296 Firstfoot
-
S 4a 3
  Mills Buttress
298 Imagine the Sea beneath Your Feet
-
E3 5c 2
299 Alpha S 4a 7
300 No Beta
-
E1 5a 2
301 Gîte de France
-
HS 4a 7
302 Thong
-
E2 5b 2
  Rainy Day Buttress
304 Legalized Grass
-
E2 5b 2
305 Wired for Wood
-
E3 6a 2
306 The Devil May Care E8 6c *** 1
307 Just Grab It! E6 6b ** 2
308 Blood Sucker VD 9
309 Snippet
-
E1 5b 5
  Isolated Buttress
311 Not Another 'One of the Best Climbers in the Country'
-
E1 5a 1
312 Media + climbers Don't Mix
-
E3 6a 1
313 A Camera-Shy Guy
-
E1 5a 2
314 While the Cat's Away
-
E2 5b 2
315 Illusions of Falling to Earth
-
E5 6a ** 1
316 Snapshot
-
E6 6b * 1
317 The Fickle Finger of Flake E6 6c * 1
  Dark side Boulder
319 Left Arete (S/S) f6C *** 9
320 Left Arête (Darkside Boulder) f6A+ 41
321 The Edges f6A 60
322 Give Me Light E1 5c 80
323 Pothole Arête f4 72
324 Darkside Traverse f6B+ *** 15
  Sugarlump Boulder
326 It Snapped! V5 6b 4
327 Badgered V1 5c 3
328 Oral Rope Burn Eliminate V2 5c 1
  Huntsham West
330 Kippered E4 6b * 2
331 Right Hand Man f6C+ *** 15
332 Up, Up And Away f5+  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers AMorris and Big Lee