Climbs 226
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 129m a.s.l
Faces E

Chris high on the classic Give Me Light V1 © MorganPreece

Crag features

Line of smallish grit-like sandstone-conglomerate crags and freestanding boulders, certainly worth a look, but be aware of access problems. Rarely busy. Single pitch routes to 15 metres.

Martin Crockers' 'The Sandstone Outcrops of the Forest of Dean' (Climbers' Club, 2006) is definitive for the main crag. The boulders are another matter!

Many routes cannot be protected. Crocker suggests a top-rope then solo ethic, but please rig to avoid eroding the edges.

Approach notes

It has been stated by the landowners that climbing on these crags are restricted due to rubbish being left at the crag and a reported fatality. However this fatality has not been confirmed as of 22AUG14, and the general consensus is that the littering is not the work of local climbers of the crag. Having said this, please respect the landowners decision and if you do venture down to the crag be sure to keep a low profile and collect any litter you see to ensure negotiations with the owners are successful.

"The BMC has been informed (05/02/09) by the landowners that climbing is not permitted on these crags.

The area is used for deer stalking between November and March - if you are asked to leave by Estate representatives during this period it may be wise to do so.

Please report any access difficulties to the BMC."

The above comes from the BMC RAD as of 5th March 2009. If you read the comments below, you will see an example of this new development with the landowners. If you do venture to this crag and have problems, please also post here as well as notifying the BMC.

From the Symonds Yat car parks, walk northwards down the road past a short open section and the Baptist Chapel. A bit further on, but prior to reaching the fork, take a signed footpath to the right marked Wye Valley Walk. After just over 100 yards another path doubles back to the right uphill, leading directly to Rainy Day Buttress.

There is also space for one car at a small layby on the left as you approach Symonds Yat at the start of the footpath.

Access Banned

The landowner has informed the BMC that they do not permit climbing. The area contains well used public footpaths (which pass through the crags), but it is claimed that deer stalking takes place between November and March. If you are asked to leave by Estate representatives during this period it may be wise to do so. Please report any access difficulties to the BMC.

As with any other crag grades are given for an onsight ascent without pads, worth noting for people climbing big E-grades for other styles of ascents. Maybe highball grades would be useful for some routes these days...
Fiend - 15/Dec/14
Please wipe your feet before setting off on problems and routes at Huntsham. I was at the Slug today and lots of the footholds were ingrained with mud. The rock is a touch soft there and it'll erode quickly if we don't all do our bit to look after it. Climbing with 'quiet' feet will really help too. Thank you - doing this'll be better for the rock and everyone who enjoys climbing on it! :-)
Joyce - 12/Oct/14
Access seems to be a problem once again, see my post on the forum. Please avoid or keep a low profile for the time-being, I'm hopeful formal access can be agreed.
tombeasley - 21/Aug/14
(8.6.14) I enjoyed my visit today. The main crag is fairly diry and overgrown but the boulders have been well maintained by someone. Darkside, Satellite, Sliced Slug, Bread Pudding and Rift boulders all appeared clean with good landings free from brambles. Thankyou to whoever has been doing this.
disturbed_one51 - 08/Jun/14
I've put a topo for bivi buttress on here if its of any use to anyone. http://travelswithrockboots.blogspot.co.uk/2013/11/if-you-go-down-to-woods-today.html
AJM - 06/Nov/13
BMC status on this crag is that it's banned, I've heard through the grapevine that people have climbed here multiple times without the landowner kicking up much fuss. Is this crag still viable to climb without getting a telling off or is it worth steering clear still?
Cypher - 01/Jun/12
Was here on Sunday (04/12/11) massivly overgrown but if you start at sugarlump boulder the path is clear.
Croakinglizard - 07/Dec/11
Some awsome problems, and only an hour from Bristol. Quite overgrown with brambles so wouldn't recomend wearing shorts!
Beastly Squirrel - 19/Apr/11
Enjoyed this visit 17/03/10. Pretty brambly but worth the effort. The flakes on the Slug was my highlight.
Gareth Bowen - 17/Mar/10
went bouldering here July 2009. Overgrown paths, so wear trousers and bring some cutters or a big bashing stick! Sometimes difficult to find the boulders because of all the brambles, but worth perservering as the rock is surprisingly solid (except where it's not!) Went to the sugarlump, dark side and rift boulder, all of which are worth the effort!
Jeronimo - 11/Jul/09
We got asked to leave Huntsham Crag today; 20-03-09. Apparently its private property & the land owners are intending to email all the local climbing clubs & indoor walls to this effect. Has anybody got any comments on that?
them - 20/Mar/09
definetly is worth a visit. in recent issue of climber mag and there is an online topo by golden bicep. Some brilliant problems and very quite. All the good problems are clean and never mossy.
BenNorman - 30/Nov/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Huntsham West
2 Kippered E4 6b * 2
  Sugarlump Boulder
4 It Snapped! V5 6b 4
5 Badgered V1 5c 3
  Dark side Boulder
7 Left Arete (S/S) f6C *** 9
8 Left Arête (Darkside Boulder) f6A+ 39
9 The Edges f6A 58
10 Give Me Light E1 5c 76
11 Pothole Arête f4 66
12 Darkside Traverse f6B+ *** 12
  Isolated Buttress
14 A Camera-Shy Guy
-
E1 5a 2
15 While the Cat's Away
-
E2 5b 2
16 Illusions of Falling to Earth *
-
E5 6a 1
17 Snapshot *
-
E6 6b 1
18 The Fickle Finger of Flake * E6 6c 1
  Rainy Day Buttress
20 The Devil May Care E8 6c *** 1
21 Just Grab It! E6 6b ** 2
22 Blood Sucker VD 9
23 Snippet
-
E1 5b 5
  Mills Buttress
25 Alpha S 4a 7
26 No Beta
-
E1 5a 2
27 Gîte de France
-
HS 4a 8
  Upper Edge
29 In The Mist
-
E4 6b 3
30 Gorilla
-
VS 4b 4
31 Fin
-
VS 5c 6
32 Club Foot
-
VS 4c 5
33 Take a Pebble
-
VS 4c * 3
34 The Selfish Child
-
E3 5b 3
35 Forty-three Today
-
E2 5b 3
36 Firstfoot
-
S 4a 3
  Choral Buttress
38 The Braille Snail
-
E5 6a ** 3
39 Woodlands
-
E3 5c 3
40 Bustin' E4 6b ** 10
41 Godfather Of Rock E6 6b *** 3
42 Song Child VS 4c * 10
43 Crack Dancer HVS 5b * 9
44 Masters of the Punyverse E6 6c *** 3
  Elder Buttress
46 Sausage on a Stick
-
E6 6a * 9
47 Feather Light Slab
-
E3 5b * 4
48 Featherweight E4 5c ** 3
49 Claim 2 Fame E7 6c 10
50 Deep Space
-
S 4a 11
51 Beside the Seaside
-
S 4a 12
52 Herpe's Hogmonay Hangover
-
HS 4b 8
53 Roots & Shoots * E4 5c 1
54 The Crystal Voyeur * E6 6a/b 1
  Crown Buttress
  Proboscis Buttress
57 Proboscis
-
VS 5a *** 11
  Little Noses Bluff Bouldering
59 Retrousse Wall V0 4c 1
60 Rockover Wall V0 5b 3
61 The Hooter V1 5c 3
  Bergerac Buttress
63 Late Riser
-
E5 5c ** 13
64 Appointment With Beer E5 6b *** 30
65 Tequila Sunrise E5 6b ** 3
66 The Christening
-
E2 5b * 2
67 Gunpoint
-
E2 5b 17
68 Samuel Redbreast S/S f6B+ * 1
  chockstone buttress
70 Crouching the Log-up-me E6 6b ** 2
71 Essence of Being E6 6b/c *** 2
72 Payback Time E6 6b ** 2
73 Glory Days
-
E4 5c * 4
74 Triple Lock E5 6b ** 6
75 Alex's Roof f7A ** 52
76 Alex's Roof Direct f7A ** 5
77 Beware the Fascist f7B ** 6
78 Beware the Fascist Direct f7A+ *** 2
79 Shoehorn f7A+ ** 8
80 Slight Arete
-
V0- 4c 11
81 Half-Cracked
-
V0- 4c 11
82 Vein Wall
-
V0 5a 12
83 Chockahunas f7B *** 2
84 God the Rock * E8 6c 1
  Rift Boulder
86 Rib Tickler f6B * 2
87 The Bulge f4+ 18
88 Rift Crack f6B 24
89 Atrium bulge f6C ** 3
90 Atrium Project f7A ** 7
91 Rift Wall Traverse f7A * 17
92 Rift Arete f6B+ 15
93 Pebbles Revenge f6B+ * 7
94 Mid Rift f4 11
95 Crack Right, Rift Boulder f4 * 22
96 Rift Valley Low Start f6B+  
97 Rift Right f7C+  
98 End the rift f4+ 5
99 Sapling Finish f3+ 3b 4
  Bread Pudding Boulder
101 In Lard f6A+ * 4
102 Bread Pudding f5+ *** 65
103 Bread Pudding Dyno f7C  
104 Pudding Basin f6C ** 18
105 The Porthole f7A+ ** 38
106 Lick the Bowl f6C ** 59
107 Bara Brith * f7B ** 3
108 Bowl rim extension f6C+ * 10
109 Bowl Rim f6A *** 87
110 Cream f6C+ * 28
111 Harpers Bazaar f6A+ * 8
112 The Gnarly Traverse f7C * 4
113 Doss Roof Right f6A * 6
  Sliced slug boulder
115 Stay on It E4 6c * 2
116 The Impale E1 5b 17
117 Golden Bicep (standing start) f6B+ 60
118 Golden Bicep (sit start) f6C+ ** 127
119 Golden Undercut f6C+ 6
120 The Flakes E1 5c 107
121 Underflake f5+ *** 21
122 Underflake (sit start) f6A *** 59
123 We're Chuffin' Awesome... and Other Stories! f7A 16
124 Right Flake f6B * 23
125 Upper flake f6A *** 15
126 Upper flake (sit start) f6A+ *** 43
127 Aimes wol f7A+ ** 20
128 Korky f7A 4
129 Glancing Blow f7B ** 1
130 Aimless f7A ** 7
131 Ames More or Less f7A 5
132 Slugtaste E4 6a 18
133 Ames Low f7A+ *** 73
134 Ames Low - Slugtaste f7B ** 4
135 Left hook f7B+ *** 7
136 Low Blow f7B+ ** 28
137 Ames High f7A+ ** 16
138 High Blow f7B+ ** 5
139 Ames Super High Way f7A+ *** 2
140 The Loop 8a ** 36
141 Lettuce Climb
-
HVS 5b 1
142 Slugback Rider E2 6a * 4
143 Slug It Out E3 6b * 4
144 Silke Smooth f6A 6
  Shadow Boulder
146 Penumbra
-
D 3
147 The Golden Valley
-
E2 5c 3
148 Shadowlands
-
E5 5c *** 7
149 Sharing the Darkness E6 6a 1
150 Blinded by the Light E6 6b ** 1
151 Deep Forest Desires
-
E5 6b 1
  Bivi Buttress
153 Mat Trepass E5 6a ** 6
154 Through Air E5 6b * 4
155 Five Alive E6 6a ** 5
156 Rough Sleepers Initiative E2 6a 3
157 Friend In Kneed E4 5c 1
158 Kneeded Friends E5 6b * 3
159 Speaking in Tongues E5 6a ** 3
160 The Overnight Stay
-
E1 5b 8
161 Grated Arm f6C 1
162 Short and Steep f6B 18
163 Bivi Groove Left f7A+ 7
164 Bivi groove f6B+ ** 19
165 Sand Smoked Bacon f6B+ * 11
166 Goliath Stand f7C+ 4
167 Goliath f8A+ ** 2
168 The Hunter's Roof f8A *** 4
169 Hunter's Roof Stand f7C *** 1
170 Between the Lines f7B+ ** 30
171 Phil McRackin f7B+ * 6
172 Release the Kraken f7B+  
173 Peckitt roof f7C ** 22
174 Switching Lanes f7C * 4
175 Under Stars is Best f6B+ 6a 40
176 Bivi Buttress Traverse f7A+ * 8
177 End of the Line f6C+ * 12
178 Goliath Extension f8B ** 2
  The Boulders
180 Wafer
-
E3 5b 2
181 Not Another Roadside Attraction
-
S 4a 2
182 Wan-tun
-
S 3
  Bow Buttress
184 Twix
-
VS 4c * 4
  The Pyramid
186 Pharoah's Tomb
-
D 4
187 The Mummy
-
VS 4c 3
188 Valley of the Kings
-
HVS 5a 5
189 The Wonder
-
HVS 5a 2
  Ruin Wall
191 The Pebblemaster
-
E5 6a * 3
192 Whitewash Wall
-
E3 5c 2
  Final Buttress
194 The Final Word
-
E4 5c * 2
  The Sponge
196 Riverside Cruise
-
E6 6c *** 2
197 The Arete f5+ 5c 4
  Riverside
199 Riverview Ramp
-
HVS 4b * 3
200 Riverview Wall
-
E4 5c 2
201 Pebble Practice
-
V1 5c *** 24
202 Riverside Reach V1 5+ *  
203 The Nose
-
V0- 3c 4
204 Nose Picker
-
V2 6a 3
205 The Beak
-
V1 5c 5
206 Oral Rope Burn Eliminate V2 5c 1
207 The Crack * f4+ 1
  Cube boulder
209 Rocket f6C ** 52
210 Cube left arête f5+ 9
211 No Font 5 'Ere f7A ** 1
212 Left Eye Socket f7A+ ** 13
213 Right Eye Socket f7A *** 16
214 One More Go f6C ** 10
215 The Edge f7A ** 4
  Satellite boulder
217 The Steps f2+ 2c 3
218 Left Arete f5 7
219 Satellite Wall Low Traverse f6A * 18
220 Satellite Wall Mid Traverse f5 ** 37
221 Satellite Wall High Traverse f5+ * 13
222 Rumpy pumpy f6B * 4
223 The Jugs f4+ 64
224 Satellite Wall f5 * 65
225 The Scoop f6A ** 68
226 Oh Yeah f7A+ ** 2
227 Double Top f7A *** 6
228 Right Hand Man f6C+ *** 15
  Half moon boulder
230 The Rise And Fall Of The Splasher f7A+ * 17
231 Nosejob V2 6a 2
232 Cyrano Wall V2 6a 1
233 Headmare
-
HS 4b 3
234 Strongbow
-
E3 5b * 3
235 Valley Solicitor
-
E5 6a ** 4
236 Square Eagle V3 ? * 1
237 Dusk Gully
-
VD 2
238 The Guy's High E2 5b 3
239 So Illicit HVS 4c 3
240 Percy's Depression E4 6b ** 3
241 Alison's Chagrin E3 5b 4
242 The Reubenite E5 5c *** 3
243 Hinge and Bracket E3 5b 3
244 The Open Gate E3 5c 3
245 Loss and Attachment
-
E3 5c *** 2
246 Heart for Pilgrimage
-
E4 5c * 2
247 Legalized Grass
-
E2 5b 2
248 Wired for Wood
-
E3 6a 2
249 Thong
-
E2 5b 2
250 Imagine the Sea beneath Your Feet
-
E3 5c 2
251 Up, Up And Away * f5+  
252 Not Another 'One of the Best Climbers in the Country' *
-
E1 5a 1
253 Media + climbers Don't Mix *
-
E3 6a 1
254 Isaac's Blessing * E6 6b ** 2
255 The Night Shelter * E4 6a ** 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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