This delightful area is a recently appraised addition, and, despite an approach that requires a little knowledge, is a terrific venue, and with a grade spread that should appeal to the mid-grade soloist. The bonus is the very deep water giving a full spread of S0s.
From Dancing Ledge walk west towards Hedbury for about 150m, to within 20m of a big grey box on the cliff side of the fence. Walk towards the cliff edge and drop back left - to find a hitherto hidden quarry; the South Face is right below this quarry. From the western edge of this quarry, either abseil off the thread to gain the lower fault line ledge, or simply down climb at grade 3 (start by the small square cut out on the very edge) to gain the spacious ledge system below.
Hidden Quarry's East Face gets a full hit of morning sun, followed by sun for most of the day on the South Face. A calm sea is ideal here. The amount of water, combined with the short, compact nature of the routes, means the tide is not so important - a high midday neap will be fine.
Please note this area forms part of Swanage's seasonal bird restriction, and is off limits between March 1st to July 31st inclusive.
|The recommended swim out in the guidebook looks pretty hairy as soon as there is a bit of swell running. Much better to swim out on the right (facing in) to the bottom of the corner between the two platforms (on the way to the E face).|
francois - 24/Aug/09